Cannot get Hana DNA 40 to work right, getting nearly no vapor, any advice would be welcomed!

[Zedayn]

Hey guys. I come to you out of pure desperation. I posted this on Reddit but the ideas seem to be drying up over there.

I purchased a Hana DNA 40 from a local brick and mortar around 3 weeks ago, and I was stoked to start messing with temperature control. I'd purchased some 28g Ni200 from Lightning Vapes, and watched half a dozen or so videos on building for the chip before I bought it. I have had nothing but disappointment and frustration with this thing. I cannot get it to vape properly at all.

I've tried numerous atomizers on it - Plumeveil, Magma, Tugboat, Dark Horse, Hobo, even an old Trident I had laying around, nothing works right. I went and bought some 30g Ni200, neither that nor the 28g works right. I've wrapped varying wraps from 8 to 16, micro to macro, spaced to touching, always making sure there's no hot spots - nothing is working. The only thing I haven't tried is a different wicking material, but all I have is Koh Gen Do cotton. Tried different liquids, varying temperature settings, a handful of different wattage options, all for nothing.

No matter what I try, I'm getting barely any vapor at all. Like, not satisfying in any way, I've gotten more vapor from a disposable cigalike. The only thing I've done that has kind of worked (but defeats the purpose of the mod) is to fire the atty a couple times to get it warm, force a new atomizer detection by unscrewing it most of the way and hitting fire, and then it reads my coil slightly higher ohms. However, after sitting and going back to rest temp, it re-reads and I'm back to wisps when I vape it. The one thing I've noticed, is my cheapie little ohm meter is always reading my coils .02-.05 ohms higher than my Hana, but that could be because it's a pretty cheap meter. I've also noticed people describing wrapping similar coils to mine and having them come out noticeably higher ohms. I'm aware of the caveats to building with Ni200 and how touchy it is. I've been wrapping Kanthal coils for over a year, and I've built at least 30 coils for this Hana, and not a single one has worked out.

I'm at the end of my rope. The mod was sent back to Hana for inspection and possible repairs through my B&M, and it just came back yesterday. According to the guy at the store, they didn't send along any information regarding what was wrong, or what they did with it. The store I bought it from flat out refuses to give me a refund. I feel like I'm sitting on a $250 paperweight, and I just want to scream.

TL;DR: Bought a Hana, cannot get it to vape correctly no matter what atty/wire/coil/setting I try, seems like it's reading ohms lower than what they are, has already been sent back to Hana and store refuses to refund me, desperately asking for help.

 

[Zamazam]

Look at rip trippers video on the DNA 40 and building an atomizer, it might help.

 

[Zedayn]

I have, a few times, to the point where I sat here and followed it step by step identically to what he did, the behavior is the same.

 

[M5amhan]

have you tried it with kanthal?

 

[madmonkey]

I'm going to say this and I am sure it's going to bite me in the ass somehow....

I love Evolv...I have 2 DNA 30's and a Vaporshark rDNA 40 so don't get me wrong...but I think with the 40 they had a lot more problems than were spotlighted and are quietly trying to make them go unnoticed...every time they release a DNA chip the first run has issues...the 20 did, the 30 did, and the 40 did...the 40's were just more noticed because it was a whole new way to vape and there was no guidebook that came with it. There are actually four versions of the DNA 40 chip....you know if you got the final and fourth version because you can switch the temperature control between C and F.

When I got my rDNA 40 I was super excited, I have plenty of nickel wire around here from owning 4 Diver V2's and so I dove right in....I am not a master builder but I can wrap a microcoil around a piece of ekowool and don't need to pinch it to get the wraps perfect...wrapping a Nickel coil shouldn't have been too difficult....so I jumped in at it....and I wrapped about 15 different 28 and 30 gauged coils with different numbers of wraps and some of them microcoiled, some of them just standard coils.....

And all of them sucked! I couldn't get the damn thing to fire for more than a second before the temperature protection kicked in...the vapor was weak, the vapor was horrible....Then I wrapped one last microcoil in frustraition...

I put it on a flash-e-vapor V2 clone base I have since you have to wrap the leads around the screws (it doesn't have post holes and I thought maybe the leads weren't connecting good on my other atty's) and put the dripper cap on it and tried again...and was dissapointed again. So I tried an experiment. I fired the coil...got it warm....while it was warm I took it off the mod and screwed it back on and told the mod it was a new coil (which is the opposite of what Evolv says to do) and all of a sudden...BAM...I was getting great flavor and vapor...even when the temperature protection kicked in it wasn't completely killing the vape down to 1 watt like before. Doing the exact opposite of what I was supposed to do made the device work. Mine also has a bug that it doesn't ask everytime I switch atty's if it's a new coil or not...it rarely does and even with temp protection turned off it still show temp instead of volts for like three or four pulls off of kanthal builds till it figures it out too.

I don't know if anyone else's DNA 40's have the specific bugs that mine do but I can make it do what I want it to and know how to now so I don't see the point of making a fuss about it. Don't give up...it took a lot of trial and error to get it to work but when it does work it works awesome. I hope this helps a little and good luck!

 

[M5amhan]

I'm going to say this and I am sure it's going to bite me in the ass somehow....

I love Evolv...I have 2 DNA 30's and a Vaporshark rDNA 40 so don't get me wrong...but I think with the 40 they had a lot more problems than were spotlighted and are quietly trying to make them go unnoticed...every time they release a DNA chip the first run has issues...the 20 did, the 30 did, and the 40 did...the 40's were just more noticed because it was a whole new way to vape and there was no guidebook that came with it. There are actually four versions of the DNA 40 chip....you know if you got the final and fourth version because you can switch the temperature control between C and F.

When I got my rDNA 40 I was super excited, I have plenty of nickel wire around here from owning 4 Diver V2's and so I dove right in....I am not a master builder but I can wrap a microcoil around a piece of ekowool and don't need to pinch it to get the wraps perfect...wrapping a Nickel coil shouldn't have been too difficult....so I jumped in at it....and I wrapped about 15 different 28 and 30 gauged coils with different numbers of wraps and some of them microcoiled, some of them just standard coils.....

And all of them sucked! I couldn't get the damn thing to fire for more than a second before the temperature protection kicked in...the vapor was weak, the vapor was horrible....Then I wrapped one last microcoil in frustraition...

I put it on a flash-e-vapor V2 clone base I have since you have to wrap the leads around the screws (it doesn't have post holes and I thought maybe the leads weren't connecting good on my other atty's) and put the dripper cap on it and tried again...and was dissapointed again. So I tried an experiment. I fired the coil...got it warm....while it was warm I took it off the mod and screwed it back on and told the mod it was a new coil (which is the opposite of what Evolv says to do) and all of a sudden...BAM...I was getting great flavor and vapor...even when the temperature protection kicked in it wasn't completely killing the vape down to 1 watt like before. Doing the exact opposite of what I was supposed to do made the device work. Mine also has a bug that it doesn't ask everytime I switch atty's if it's a new coil or not...it rarely does and even with temp protection turned off it still show temp instead of volts for like three or four pulls off of kanthal builds till it figures it out too.

I don't know if anyone else's DNA 40's have the specific bugs that mine do but I can make it do what I want it to and know how to now so I don't see the point of making a fuss about it. Don't give up...it took a lot of trial and error to get it to work but when it does work it works awesome. I hope this helps a little and good luck!

i got one of the first runs and only bugs i have are scrambled screen every once in a while (only in temp mode) and battery indicator sucks. but the actual performance was great on both nickel and kanthal. temp control i think has a long way to go before i can vape it all day every day

been waiting for vaporshark to get the updated chips with large screens before i sent it in. didnt want to have to make the run arounds 2 or 3 times

 

[Zedayn]

have you tried it with kanthal?

Yeah, at 40w with TC off, it vapes just like my IPV2 at 40w.

 

[Zedayn]

So I tried an experiment. I fired the coil...got it warm....while it was warm I took it off the mod and screwed it back on and told the mod it was a new coil (which is the opposite of what Evolv says to do) and all of a sudden...BAM...I was getting great flavor and vapor...even when the temperature protection kicked in it wasn't completely killing the vape down to 1 watt like before. Doing the exact opposite of what I was supposed to do made the device work.

This is exactly what I'm experiencing, and exactly what I did. When I did this, it worked pretty damn well! However, as soon as I let it sit for an hour or 2 without being used, it must have re-read and re-calculated the resting temp, because I pick it back up and it's back to its old habits. I also feel like tricking it like that is totally defeating the purpose, since at that point there's no way to know what temp it's actually stopping at.

 

[driver379]

Hey guys. I come to you out of pure desperation. I posted this on Reddit but the ideas seem to be drying up over there.

I purchased a Hana DNA 40 from a local brick and mortar around 3 weeks ago, and I was stoked to start messing with temperature control. I'd purchased some 28g Ni200 from Lightning Vapes, and watched half a dozen or so videos on building for the chip before I bought it. I have had nothing but disappointment and frustration with this thing. I cannot get it to vape properly at all.

I've tried numerous atomizers on it - Plumeveil, Magma, Tugboat, Dark Horse, Hobo, even an old Trident I had laying around, nothing works right. I went and bought some 30g Ni200, neither that nor the 28g works right. I've wrapped varying wraps from 8 to 16, micro to macro, spaced to touching, always making sure there's no hot spots - nothing is working. The only thing I haven't tried is a different wicking material, but all I have is Koh Gen Do cotton. Tried different liquids, varying temperature settings, a handful of different wattage options, all for nothing.

No matter what I try, I'm getting barely any vapor at all. Like, not satisfying in any way, I've gotten more vapor from a disposable cigalike. The only thing I've done that has kind of worked (but defeats the purpose of the mod) is to fire the atty a couple times to get it warm, force a new atomizer detection by unscrewing it most of the way and hitting fire, and then it reads my coil slightly higher ohms. However, after sitting and going back to rest temp, it re-reads and I'm back to wisps when I vape it. The one thing I've noticed, is my cheapie little ohm meter is always reading my coils .02-.05 ohms higher than my Hana, but that could be because it's a pretty cheap meter. I've also noticed people describing wrapping similar coils to mine and having them come out noticeably higher ohms. I'm aware of the caveats to building with Ni200 and how touchy it is. I've been wrapping Kanthal coils for over a year, and I've built at least 30 coils for this Hana, and not a single one has worked out.

I'm at the end of my rope. The mod was sent back to Hana for inspection and possible repairs through my B&M, and it just came back yesterday. According to the guy at the store, they didn't send along any information regarding what was wrong, or what they did with it. The store I bought it from flat out refuses to give me a refund. I feel like I'm sitting on a $250 paperweight, and I just want to scream.

TL;DR: Bought a Hana, cannot get it to vape correctly no matter what atty/wire/coil/setting I try, seems like it's reading ohms lower than what they are, has already been sent back to Hana and store refuses to refund me, desperately asking for help.

I haven't had any trouble at all with mine other than when I try to build dual coils with the nickel the resistance is too low. Are you building singles? If not give a single coil a try and see if it will fire for you.

 

[Zedayn]

Tried one crazy dual coil, both macro with a ton of wraps, that didn't work. Everything else has been single.

 

[M5amhan]

i would take it up with evolv if the shop owner wont help. and also id never go back to that shop

 

[Giraut]

Single Ni200 coil here. TC has been working fantastic since day one.

I think the most important thing is a solid leg/post connections: if there's ANY shift in coil resistance, it throws TC off. That's also why forcing the DNA40 to read a hot coil as a cold coil makes the vape warmer: the chip thinks the coil is a lot colder than it really is when you fire it. If resistance measurements are consistent over time, TC works great hit after hit.

And of course, sadly, you may also have a bum chipset or a bum mod.

 

[dre]

If your looking for lots of warm vapor set the temp to 500° and play around with the wattage till its not hitting temp protection right away. If the coil is built right that will get it going.

 

[madmonkey]

Single Ni200 coil here. TC has been working fantastic since day one.

I think the most important thing is a solid leg/post connections: if there's ANY shift in coil resistance, it throws TC off. That's also why forcing the DNA40 to read a hot coil as a cold coil makes the vape warmer: the chip thinks the coil is a lot colder than it really is when you fire it. If resistance measurements are consistent over time, TC works great hit after hit.

And of course, sadly, you may also have a bum chipset or a bum mod.

I get that and thought it was my connections were bad as well...that's why I wrapped it around the flash-e-vapor base....it's like a kayfun...it either connects or it doesnt....my battery meter doesn't work right either....it doesn't show anything but full until the battery is literally almost dead....

I like my chip...I can fool it into working...but i do still think Evolv has more bugs in the first three versions than they're willing to say or why would there be four versions of the chip instead of one or two?

 

[kb91hatch]

I am getting the same issue as op. It's getting frustrating making tons of coils with no success. I have up for a bit and just returned to kanthal. I got it to work for about 3 days straight at one point the tc was on point with flavor and vapor. But then it just stopped. I could only get it to function by tricking it. The one thing I have going for me is I can drive to hanamodz if needed. But as of now I am dealing with just using kanthal.

 

[Giraut]

I[...]....my battery meter doesn't work right either....it doesn't show anything but full until the battery is literally almost dead....

Actually, it does work as intended. Only it's funky. Mine does the same thing, and I finally figured it out the other day: it combines the battery voltage and the power that's put out into the coil, and possibly also the fire/rest time ratio, to calculate a sort of "remaining vape time" level that is displayed by the meter on the screen.

Trouble is, it's trying to be too clever for its own good, and ends up being completely nonlinear and confusing. Also, people are more used to seeing a straight battery level meter.

 

[madmonkey]

Actually, it does work as intended. Only it's funky. Mine does the same thing, and I finally figured it out the other day: it combines the battery voltage and the power that's put out into the coil, and possibly also the fire/rest time ratio, to calculate a sort of "remaining vape time" level that is displayed by the meter on the screen.

Trouble is, it's trying to be too clever for its own good, and ends up being completely nonlinear and confusing. Also, people are more used to seeing a straight battery level meter.

That is weird...but I disagree it's working right...a battery with 2500+ mah capacity should not be showing full on any battery meter when my charger and a multimeter are showing 3.5 volts....regardless of whatever algorithm,

 

[Giraut]

I didn't say it's working right, I said it's working as intended The designer's intention sucks, is the problem.

 

[madmonkey]

I didn't say it's working right, I said it's working as intended The designer's intention sucks, is the problem.

you are right...sorry for misspeaking...I still love the chip and I've learned how to "trick" it...I am just waiting awhile before I get another one to make sure they're really done working the bugs out

 

[Giraut]

By the way, even with my perfectly working DNA40 (lucky me, apparently, from what I read), wicking seems to play a big role in getting a warm vape. I have to pass cotton through the coil, but also jam some more underneath it and a bit around the sides too, to keep the coil properly wet and cool enough to not hit TP too fast. And even then, I pretty much have to flood the atty and dunk the coil in juice if I want a warm vape above 25W. That's something to keep in mind, too. Even a slightly dry(er) wick will not cool the coil enough to dissipate power without hitting TP.

Matter of fact, considering how much juice I constantly have in the atty, if I didn't use a RDA with vertical air channels, I think it'd be leaking all the time...

 

[madmonkey]

By the way, even with my perfectly working DNA40 (lucky me, apparently, from what I read), wicking seems to play a big role in getting a warm vape. I have to pass cotton through the coil, but also jam some more underneath it and a bit around the sides too, to keep the coil properly wet and cool enough to not hit TP too fast. And even then, I pretty much have to flood the atty and dunk the coil in juice if I want a warm vape above 25W. That's something to keep in mind, too. Even a slightly dry(er) wick will not cool the coil enough to dissipate power without hitting TP.

Matter of fact, considering how much juice I constantly have in the atty, if I didn't use a RDA with vertical air channels, I think it'd be leaking all the time...

I noticed that too about the wicking....I was working on drippers but I was keeping the watt settings around 20....I only vape my Kayfun around 12 watts and that is (whenever I get around to tinkering with it again) my goal...to put a nickel coil in that. I had the temp setting around 400 so I thought it was too low so I raised it to 450 and that kinda almost worked....then when I finally got it to work it was set at 410 degrees, 20 watts, and told it the warm coil was new and cool. I like that it kicks in to let you know your coil is dry when it works....I think the whole concept is really neat and I know it is the first design and will be improved apon in time. I just wish I didn't have to screw my atty on with the coil at just the right temp to make it work....I swear I could solder the damn leads to the atty posts and it still would give me shit

 

[Giraut]

I'm starting to wonder if people who have so much trouble with the temperature control feature aren't using nickel wire that's been alloyed with something or other. I mean, the DNA40 temperature reckoning algorithm has been hard-coded with the temperature/resistance slope of pure nickel. But if the wire is an alloy with a different temperature response, that would create what you're experiencing, possibly.

I wouldn't be surprised if vendors sold Ni200 wire that isn't really Ni200. Hell, when I ordered mine, it came on a spool of kanthal wire, with "nickel" written by hand over the kanthal label Had the seller been dishonest, he would have sold me any old non-resistance wire lying around in his shop, I would've been none the wiser, and I'd have spent hours trying to figure out why my brand-new DNA40 didn't work as expected.

Perhaps you could try Ni200 wire from another vendor?

 

[madmonkey]

I'm starting to wonder if people who have so much trouble with the temperature control feature aren't using nickel wire that's been alloyed with something or other. I mean, the DNA40 temperature reckoning algorithm has been hard-coded with the temperature/resistance slope of pure nickel. But if the wire is an alloy with a different temperature response, that would create what you're experiencing, possibly.

I wouldn't be surprised if vendors sold Ni200 wire that isn't really Ni200. Hell, when I ordered mine, it came on a spool of kanthal wire, with "nickel" written by hand over the kanthal label Had the seller been dishonest, he would have sold me any old non-resistance wire lying around in his shop, I would've been none the wiser, and I'd have spent hours trying to figure out why my brand-new DNA40 didn't work as expected.

Perhaps you could try Ni200 wire from another vendor?

Lol, that's not right but it is funny...lucky the vendor was so "honest." All my nickel wire is from tempco...I bought some more 28 gauge from Lightening Vapes when I got some Samsung's from them a couple weeks ago but I have been having too much fun lurking around the forum to do anything other than rewick when I've been sitting at my desk. Sometime this week I've got a Mutation X V2 coming in the mail that I transformed my xmas money into and I figured I'd give a try building a nickel coil on that since I am happy with my coils right now I don't want to rip any apart....

That's always the problem isn't it with a good coil...I mean, don't get me wrong. I love fresh coils...I've got six or seven new unused coils I've rolled sitting on my desk...but all my atty's are vaping good and I don't want to rip 'em out...

awe...first world vaping problems

 

[350ZMO]

I noticed that too about the wicking....I was working on drippers but I was keeping the watt settings around 20....I only vape my Kayfun around 12 watts and that is (whenever I get around to tinkering with it again) my goal...to put a nickel coil in that. I had the temp setting around 400 so I thought it was too low so I raised it to 450 and that kinda almost worked....then when I finally got it to work it was set at 410 degrees, 20 watts, and told it the warm coil was new and cool. I like that it kicks in to let you know your coil is dry when it works....I think the whole concept is really neat and I know it is the first design and will be improved apon in time. I just wish I didn't have to screw my atty on with the coil at just the right temp to make it work....I swear I could solder the damn leads to the atty posts and it still would give me shit

Something is wrong with your Hana. I'd take it back and talk to them. 12W is what my KF can sustain and is typical for single coil builds ie my foggers can sustain 24W. Vapor production here at 410F is same as what I got with Kanthal and I don't have to trick it. Battery indicator works perfect in my opinion.

Edit: mine are based on V2 and V3 boards.

 

[illitirit]

yeah guys i have a brand new vaporshark rdna40 and I am having the same problem as OP.

I thought it was just my unit or something. I have been through like 40 builds and cant get the fucking thing to work properly.

If i unscrew the atty and put it back on while its hot. The chip works as it should.. but under normal circumstance. IE.. wait for everything to be room temp b4 screwing back on its just not working as it should. I have to bump the chip up to 520F - 550F for it to perform well. But what is the point of that when the reason we purchased DNA40 was to not char our wicks. I want to be able to use this at 410F-450F. I mean for fucks sake the factory default is 450F and now I have to bump it to 550F to use it?

Under normal circumstance I hit TP almost immediately. Anything under 490F is unusable at any wattage over 5w.

I am going to try to return this POS. There is no way im unscrewing and screwing in an atty every time i want to actually use it.

 

[dre]

yeah guys i have a brand new vaporshark rdna40 and I am having the same problem as OP.

I thought it was just my unit or something. I have been through like 40 builds and cant get the fucking thing to work properly.

If i unscrew the atty and put it back on while its hot. The chip works as it should.. but under normal circumstance. IE.. wait for everything to be room temp b4 screwing back on its just not working as it should. I have to bump the chip up to 520F - 550F for it to perform well. But what is the point of that when the reason we purchased DNA40 was to not char our wicks. I want to be able to use this at 410F-450F. I mean for fucks sake the factory default is 450F and now I have to bump it to 550F to use it?

Under normal circumstance I hit TP almost immediately. Anything under 490F is unusable at any wattage over 5w.

I am going to try to return this POS. There is no way im unscrewing and screwing in an atty every time i want to actually use it.

Its working right just some Atty have shitty airflow and Vaping at 480 won't burn your cotton. People trying for the whole 410 limit is just nonsense. You need to find the setting you like don't try and set a number just based on what others are doing. I have mine at 500° cause I like a warm vape and I don't get dry hits.

 

[dre]

Also unscrewing it while hot and tricking it your Vaping way above what its reading. Its only going to vape well in devices with good airflow at 410 and it will be a cool vape. Some like it but most don't. Its temp protection not temp control. The limit is not ment to be reached while normal Vaping. It's a whole other ballgame don't give up you'll get it @illitirit

 

[illitirit]

my drippers def do not have bad airflow. I have the marquis, aeolus, and mutation X. All 3 drippers exhibit the same behavior on my dna40.

I dont know about your dna40, but can yours hit 500F @ 6 watts by firing your device?? Mine does.

There is no way my chip is working as intended when I cant even vape 10 watts @ 410F TP without it hitting TP instantly.

If i unscrew my atty then put it back on, press new coil. THen yeah all is magical. But all that means is the device is not working as intended because the temperature readings are not correct.

 

[illitirit]

another thing I have noticed that makes me suspect there is something else wrong, or related to this issue is when under the circumstance of being below around 400-480F TP. When my device throttles the wattage , which is instantly, my screen pulses. As its throttling my screen goes bright / dim /bright / dim / bright dim, like there is an electrical problem.

However, when I raise my TP to 550 and intentionally make it throttle, this type of behavior does not appear from the screen. So there is def something going on under the hood.

Gonna contact my store and see if i can return , or at least exchange.

 

[dre]

If its hitting 500 a 6 watts it not Reading the ohms right. Make sure your nickel builds are good and evenly spaced coils. The post connections are.tight. any shorts in the builds will.cause your issue. I built a contact coil just now and tried it at 500 and its Vaping at almost no power.

 

[dre]

The only other issue is some rDNA have a brass chrome plated 510 which is shit!! Has bad connectivity the new ones are stainless steel.

 

[illitirit]

If its hitting 500 a 6 watts it not Reading the ohms right. Make sure your nickel builds are good and evenly spaced coils. The post connections are.tight. any shorts in the builds will.cause your issue. I built a contact coil just now and tried it at 500 and its Vaping at almost no power.

trust me my friend I have tried everything. Im like almost 50 builds in.

All of my connection are tight, all my 510 have been inspected and checked and torqued down.

The dna40 isnt reading rest ohms / temperature correctly

And I know about the chrome plated brass 510, which is why i waited to buy the new rdna40 with larger screen and updates. It has a gold plated stainless steel pin i believe.

 

[dre]

I'm sure vapor shark can fix or replace it if you bought it from a authorized vendor. Just take it back. If you can't get a base reading it's not going to work. Maybe a cold solder joint inside or that brass 510.

 

[madmonkey]

Yeah, I got one of the original rDNA 40s because I broke my own rule and couldn't wait till they worked out the bugs like I did with the DNA 30's and 20's...you'd think I know better...but I was too eager to try it...I got in on the PVA40 mod deal that Pegasus did and it's supposed to be the final chip with all the bugs worked out so I am waiting for that to come in before I buy another DNA 40...besides it works fantastic for Kanthal still and it's my daily workhorse so I am fine with waiting for the other mod till I try again...I only vape my Kayfun around 12 watts with the airflow wide open, I like a cooler vape so I rarely if ever get a dry hit anyways and only have to swap the cotton once a week

 

[Bow2King]

has anyone done any nicel builds in a sub tank mini or sub tank yet??

 

[Robby]

I dont know whether anyone is interested but there is a really good vaporflask DNA40 clone coming out of China. I`ve had mine for a week now and it is working perfectly. Temp control is excellent. I drip a lot so glad to never have to change a coil/wick until the coil is too gunked up. The wick is always still usable. The only stain coming from the juice. Available at Focalecig. I`m not connected with them in any way. It`s $70 free slowboat shipping.

 

[Bow2King]

if anyone is having problems with their builds or anything with nicel wire i found this video on youtube, and he is a lil hard to understand cause of his accent but pretty much explains everything!!

 

[Johnny P]

New to this forum, but I am in the same boat with my new Hana V4s dna 40 mini. I am noticing that my ohms are not reading properly, showing 0.01 instead of .10 (or anything in that .10 range). TP kicks in almost instantly when fired. When I take it out of temp controlled mode and use a reg kanthal build or even aspire atlantis (reads .05 on Hana), it will just roast the coil/cotton. I have a VS dna30 and no issues at all. I have tried the Kanger Subtank factory Ni 200 coils and reg ni 200 builds on my rda, and still the same. I just got it two days ago.

Anyone seen this before? This post is the closest Ive seen to similar issues to what Im seeing with my dna 40.

 

[dre]

New to this forum, but I am in the same boat with my new Hana V4s dna 40 mini. I am noticing that my ohms are not reading properly, showing 0.01 instead of .10 (or anything in that .10 range). TP kicks in almost instantly when fired. When I take it out of temp controlled mode and use a reg kanthal build or even aspire atlantis (reads .05 on Hana), it will just roast the coil/cotton. I have a VS dna30 and no issues at all. I have tried the Kanger Subtank factory Ni 200 coils and reg ni 200 builds on my rda, and still the same. I just got it two days ago.

Anyone seen this before? This post is the closest Ive seen to similar issues to what Im seeing with my dna 40.

That could be a short somewhere if its reading .01

 

[Johnny P]

I even put on a 1.2 ohm subtank coil to see and it shows at .12. Seems like the "." Is in the wrong place which is causing it to not function properly. When you say short, are you speaking of the mod or tank/rda?

 

[dre]

I've had a tiny piece if kanthal end up inside my 510 connection causing a super low ohm reading and not quite a short. Check the 510 on both atty and mod for something that's not right

 

[Johnny P]

Ive checked and tried different attys, and also looked over the 510 in the Hana. This thing is new and havent messed with it much since I noticed the issues. I am finding it hard to believe it is a short issue but correct me if I am wrong. These are the readings.
Subtank with 1.2 ohm coil VS dna 30=1.1 ohm Hana dna 40= 0.12 ohm
Subtank with ni 200 coil Ohm reader=.14 ohm Hana dna 40= 0.01 ohm
Aspire .5 ohm coil VS dna 30=0.5 ohm Hana dna 40=0.05 ohm
As you can see, the readings are correct in the VS dna30 and the Hana is not reading/displaying the ohms correctly. If going by what "madmonkey" said, the dna chip I have has the ability to show in Celsius making it the 4th edition. I have not even attempted to build with nickel since the readings are not correct already.

 

[Bow2King]

theres definitely something wrong there id send it back!!

 

[Johnny P]

Def did today. My local shop was nice enough to deal with the issues and exchanged it for a dna 40 vapor flask instead. They thought it was a chip issue, but wasnt one that they had seen before.

 

[Bow2King]

well then i guess it kinda worked out for you then @Johnny P

 

[Johnny P]

@Bow2King-I would have prefered the Hana, always wanted one but after paying that much for it an having it not work its frustrating.

Figured these issues were taken care of in the new chips. Guess not...

 

[rdsok]

@Bow2King-I would have prefered the Hana, always wanted one but after paying that much for it an having it not work its frustrating.

Figured these issues were taken care of in the new chips. Guess not...

The issue you described wasn't a typical problem seen with the Evolve chips though... getting a defective unit is much different than seeing a design flaw.

 

[Johnny P]

Evolve informed me that it wasnt an issue they have seen and wanted me to send it back to Hana for repairs, after I already traded it in for the flask. So positive it was a defective unit.

Im sure its a great device when working properly, but if the chip works correctly but the device fails, or vice versa, you end up with the same result......an expensive paper weight.

 

[spdy]

 

[Discobob]

Any new updates on this issue??? I have had mine for about 2 weeks and I love the mod but my temp controls are sweet and then bam!! temp control kicks in and it vapes like crap. I have been thinking well since i'm new to vaping anyway maybe my builds suck? but after reading all this I am also wondering if I have issues?

Did I miss something in another thread? I do believe that the vape shop should swap me out but is this just units that are bad?? has anyone swapped there unit out and its just magical now with no issues?

Again sorry if I missed something just need to take this back if in fact it might be a unit problem.

Thanks in advance,

Disco.