Chain vaping?

[conanthewarrior]

Hi everyone.

Yesterday I decided to go mechanical for the day, and used both an SMPL clone and a AV Able styled mech.

I am running a simple 0.21, 2MM dual 26G SS 316L build on the AV able, and a 0.35 Single coil on the SMPL. I did plan to use the first build on the SMPL, but found the button got a bit warm for my liking at that resistance, while on the able styled mech there was no noticeable warmth to the mod, or battery.

I understand both builds are within my batteries CDR of 20A, the 0.21 build being at its CDR calculating at 4.2V.

When I vape, I tend to take a few hits fairly quickly within the span of eachother, say 4-5 hits in around a minute, then will leave it for a fair time before doing the same again.

While using the mechs though, I found myself taking more time between hits, mainly due to my worry hitting this fast on a mech.

As I am within the batteries CDR, I should be OK in theory doing this shouldn't I? I wouldn't do this, but it should be safe to actually fire continuously, in say a malfunction?

I just wanted clarification that vaping my normal way would be OK on a mech, or if it is best for me to wait a little longer between hits when using a mech vs a regulated mod.

Thank you all for your help, Conan.

 

[McAnythingReally]

Hi everyone.

Yesterday I decided to go mechanical for the day, and used both an SMPL clone and a AV Able styled mech.

I am running a simple 0.21, 2MM dual 26G SS 316L build on the AV able, and a 0.35 Single coil on the SMPL. I did plan to use the first build on the SMPL, but found the button got a bit warm for my liking at that resistance, while on the able styled mech there was no noticeable warmth to the mod, or battery.

I understand both builds are within my batteries CDR of 20A, the 0.21 build being at its CDR calculating at 4.2V.

When I vape, I tend to take a few hits fairly quickly within the span of eachother, say 4-5 hits in around a minute, then will leave it for a fair time before doing the same again.

While using the mechs though, I found myself taking more time between hits, mainly due to my worry hitting this fast on a mech.

As I am within the batteries CDR, I should be OK in theory doing this shouldn't I? I wouldn't do this, but it should be safe to actually fire continuously, in say a malfunction?

I just wanted clarification that vaping my normal way would be OK on a mech, or if it is best for me to wait a little longer between hits when using a mech vs a regulated mod.

Thank you all for your help, Conan.

Nothing wrong with chain vaping on a mech, I tend to do that fairly regularly. The worst I have happen is I get some heat transfer from the RDA to the mod, but I also run significantly bigger/hotter builds in my mechs than you. When it comes down to it, just stick to what you feel comfortable with, and as always keep an eye on heat and the battery, and if it is outside of your comfort zone then let the mod rest a few minutes, but don't be afraid to chain vape it, the worst that will happen is that your battery is gonna need to be charged a little quicker LOL

 

[HondaDavidson]

You are at the extreme limit of your battery. Safe would be ohms higher than .25...

You can chain vape a mech...... the fact that the atty and mod gets warm.. is mainly due to the 400 to 1000 degree coil you have in the atty. Heating things up.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[zaroba]

If your worried about the heat, next time the button starts feeling warm open the mod and feel the battery itself.
If it is cooler then the button and mod, then it is just heat radiating down from the RDA or the spring in the button heating up.
If the battery is hotter then the mod and button, then it is time to either replace the battery (older batteries wont perform as good) or use higher ohm coils.


(please note that I barely know anything about mechs, it is just general battery safety and precautions)

 

[nightshard]

Button heat doesn't necessarily mean you build is too low, it can mean that this section of the mech is the one with the most resistance.
Think of a thick cable, it you were to cut a section off and replace it with a thinner wire, that thinner section would get hotter.

This could be because the contacts are dirty or because of poor quality in case of a clone.

The RDA does radiate heat downwards through the mod, but since your button is placed at the bottom it would heat up less then the middle due to heat transference.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Button heat doesn't necessarily mean you build is too low, it can mean that this section of the mech is the one with the most resistance.
Think of a thick cable, it you were to cut a section off and replace it with a thinner wire, that thinner section would get hotter.

This could be because the contacts are dirty or because of poor quality in case of a clone.

The RDA does radiate heat downwards through the mod, but since your button is placed at the bottom it would heat up less then the middle due to heat transference.

I think it is likely this is the cause- it was on the SMPL I found the button to get warm.

It performed quite well when new, and I don't remember any warmth occurring, so it is quite likely it needs a deep clean. I have cleaned it, but it probably needs something a bit more intense.

If your worried about the heat, next time the button starts feeling warm open the mod and feel the battery itself.
If it is cooler then the button and mod, then it is just heat radiating down from the RDA or the spring in the button heating up.
If the battery is hotter then the mod and button, then it is time to either replace the battery (older batteries wont perform as good) or use higher ohm coils.


(please note that I barely know anything about mechs, it is just general battery safety and precautions)

I did do this when using the mod, removing the battery to feel for warmth- it was warm, but not as warm as the button. Kind of body heat warm. I think this is from heat transfer from the RDA, and possible the button.
I try to promote safety often myself, I just do not know much about mechanical mods, so in the same boat as you really . I have taught myself as much as possible over the past few years, but this is mainly with regulated mods. I understand I use the same batteries though so follow what I usually would, such as inspecting battery wrappings, safe carrying of them, not exceeding the CDR, and also with a mech the added aspect of no protection, so making sure there is no shorts in my build and it is of a resistance my battery I am using can handle.

You are at the extreme limit of your battery. Safe would be ohms higher than .25...

You can chain vape a mech...... the fact that the atty and mod gets warm.. is mainly due to the 400 to 1000 degree coil you have in the atty. Heating things up.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I realise I am dead on the limit of a 20A battery at 4.2V with the first build, and it is pushing the battery harder than I would usually in a regulated mod. I will be honest, and assumed as long as I was not exceeding it's CDR, things were OK.

I don't want to be putting myself in any unnecessary danger though, and can definitely change to a build of 0.25 or higher, in all honesty the 0.21 build is a bit much for me anyway. Regulated I am usually around 40W.

I believe the body of the mod was warm due to the RDA as to be expected, just the button in the SMPL was noticeably hotter than the rest of the mod, which was why I swapped.

 

[Jvoosten]

I think it is likely this is the cause- it was on the SMPL I found the button to get warm.

It performed quite well when new, and I don't remember any warmth occurring, so it is quite likely it needs a deep clean. I have cleaned it, but it probably needs something a bit more intense.



I did do this when using the mod, removing the battery to feel for warmth- it was warm, but not as warm as the button. Kind of body heat warm. I think this is from heat transfer from the RDA, and possible the button.
I try to promote safety often myself, I just do not know much about mechanical mods, so in the same boat as you really . I have taught myself as much as possible over the past few years, but this is mainly with regulated mods. I understand I use the same batteries though so follow what I usually would, such as inspecting battery wrappings, safe carrying of them, not exceeding the CDR, and also with a mech the added aspect of no protection, so making sure there is no shorts in my build and it is of a resistance my battery I am using can handle.


I realise I am dead on the limit of a 20A battery at 4.2V with the first build, and it is pushing the battery harder than I would usually in a regulated mod. I will be honest, and assumed as long as I was not exceeding it's CDR, things were OK.

I don't want to be putting myself in any unnecessary danger though, and can definitely change to a build of 0.25 or higher, in all honesty the 0.21 build is a bit much for me anyway. Regulated I am usually around 40W.

I believe the body of the mod was warm due to the RDA as to be expected, just the button in the SMPL was noticeably hotter than the rest of the mod, which was why I swapped.

Joyetech has a VW battery that goes up to 50w something like ego mega twist.

 

[xpen]

My SMPL clone - SS with brass button - requires regular cleaning of the button/tube threads, otherwise the button will get warm - especially with low builds
Not as warm as the 4nine thankfully, but still warm enough to be noticed...