I'm using a Chi-you 728, 2014 version with the 18650 configuration. Recently, the bottom part (firing pin) is getting very hot to touch. I haven't tried disassembling it yet, I'm thinking it may be some problem with the air flow. Any help?
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Chi-you mod is getting HOT
- Thread starter ben balmforth
- Start date
Stop. Like fucking yesterday stop.
This is
a. NOT air flow issue.
b. what atomizer and ohm reading is it?
c. what battery?
That hot to the touch is called joule heating is indicating a short or a battery getting ready to go fucky in your hands/face.
This is
a. NOT air flow issue.
b. what atomizer and ohm reading is it?
c. what battery?
That hot to the touch is called joule heating is indicating a short or a battery getting ready to go fucky in your hands/face.
CurlyxCracker
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While I agree, not airflow issue. The more likely cause is there's a resistance issue here. Disassemble and clean that button up very well! Still have the issue? Is the switch spring loaded? Some of these Springs although not meant to be part of the "circuit", are. And I've seen some extremely weak Springs (especially in clones, but also in my one authentic mech I own). I normally replace that spring. I have been using the copper conduit from coaxial cable and simply make my own spring. Haven't had a hot button issue since!
Before all that though verify you don't have a short in your attached atty.
Before all that though verify you don't have a short in your attached atty.
Also make sure he is not using a battery that has a shit amp draw limit and pushing it towards a boom.
CurlyxCracker
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Well yes! That is very true. What battery are you using?
CurlyxCracker
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The battery should be also known. Just in case is something with a very shitty amp limit though
True. If its getting hot, you need to address the source.
Ravi Brounstein
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Well,
I would look at your coils.
I was testing my mod with some very low ohm coils.
What I ran into what that my button was a spring based button and the spring had more resistance than my coils so it was heating up faster.
I ended up replacing my spring with a patented spring design that solved the issue.
It's a really bad sign because it usually means something in that button assembly is red hot.
A mod should ALWAYS get hot from the top down and should never be too hot to handle.
I would look at your coils.
I was testing my mod with some very low ohm coils.
What I ran into what that my button was a spring based button and the spring had more resistance than my coils so it was heating up faster.
I ended up replacing my spring with a patented spring design that solved the issue.
It's a really bad sign because it usually means something in that button assembly is red hot.
A mod should ALWAYS get hot from the top down and should never be too hot to handle.
CurlyxCracker
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Don't need a patented spring design!
I think I posted earlier, but if you can wrap a coil, you can make a spring! Anyway I use the copper conduit from coaxial cable to wrap a spring. Far less resistance. The spring shouldn't be part of the circuit but it is in most cases. So you want some with less resistance than you coils.
Ravi Brounstein
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No, it is true.
A patented spring design isn't needed depending on your resistance calculations.
This one just met my requirements so I implemented it in my mod.
madmonkey
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http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coated-Beryllium-Copper-Compression-Spring/dp/B000FNKKVQ
this is just one of the sizes available on amazaon. measure your button and try and search for magnets and if you can't find any to fit your chi you (which should be no problem, they're a common upgrade for that mod) that order the correct diameter of this type of spring and cut into sections that will fit your button like a glove...use till spring wears out and replace with another section of spring...
in the mean time...what type of battery do you have and what is the resistance of your coil? you might be over taxing your battery or your battery might be overstressed and near the end of it's life from abuse..
and check your atty and coil ALL OVER for shorts...whether it be a pinched/clipped lead, a loose screw, and damaged insolator....and if the atty itself is fine, pull out your ohm's meter and build something around .5 to see if your button still gets hot...preferably with a different battery in case the battery is going bad. if you rebuild and swap out batteries and trade the spring out for a new spring or magnets and the button is getting super hot super fast check to make sure the negative contact is making a flat even contact with the battery, sometimes the screw backs out on the negative contact and it touches the negative contact on the battery only partially creating a partial short and heating things up because the current is running threw such a small uneven touch point and it can't handle it very well....also check the insolator around the positive pin on the mod and make sure it's not torn or worn and check the negative one as well just to make sure you've covered everything.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
and like i tell everyone else...at least read the last link I posted...it will help
this is just one of the sizes available on amazaon. measure your button and try and search for magnets and if you can't find any to fit your chi you (which should be no problem, they're a common upgrade for that mod) that order the correct diameter of this type of spring and cut into sections that will fit your button like a glove...use till spring wears out and replace with another section of spring...
in the mean time...what type of battery do you have and what is the resistance of your coil? you might be over taxing your battery or your battery might be overstressed and near the end of it's life from abuse..
and check your atty and coil ALL OVER for shorts...whether it be a pinched/clipped lead, a loose screw, and damaged insolator....and if the atty itself is fine, pull out your ohm's meter and build something around .5 to see if your button still gets hot...preferably with a different battery in case the battery is going bad. if you rebuild and swap out batteries and trade the spring out for a new spring or magnets and the button is getting super hot super fast check to make sure the negative contact is making a flat even contact with the battery, sometimes the screw backs out on the negative contact and it touches the negative contact on the battery only partially creating a partial short and heating things up because the current is running threw such a small uneven touch point and it can't handle it very well....also check the insolator around the positive pin on the mod and make sure it's not torn or worn and check the negative one as well just to make sure you've covered everything.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
and like i tell everyone else...at least read the last link I posted...it will help
