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DNA40 Temp control devices
- Thread starter Jwilzz
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350ZMO
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Some folks on another forum have had issues with the Vapor Flask and Hana Modz, only one post that I know of had an issue with the XPV. While I have read one bad experience with an XPV mine has been flawless and there have been several bad experience posts with the vapor flask and HANA. But those people RMAd their flasks and Hanas either through the vendor or EVOLV and have achieved success. One particular poster went through 5 bad ones before getting a good one.
Myself, I procured the DNA40 chip on the day of its release about three months ago and have been exclusively using them ever since. I now have 3 that I have built myself and an XPV. I have given away my other mods to friends and family, including SX350 box mods, EVIC-S, VAMOs, various EGOs like the vision spinner and twist etc. I like the DNA40 Temperature Protect technology that much! For me, it does exactly what I have wanted from day one.
EVOLV is currently on version 4 of the DNA40 board yet none of the boards have version identifications. There have been several posts about board problems with screen glitches. I experienced this once and found mine was caused by ejuice getting on the board. After swabbing with vodka and fixing the mod so it wouldn't leak on the board again I have had no further issues. There may be other mechanisms causing this problem but if there is, it is not clear what. The conformal coating on the version 3 board I got appears more substantial but it does not completely solve the issue as there is at least one poster in another forum that has had the screen glitch issue with a V3 board.
Some folks have difficulty in making coils with Ni200. While it is less springy than Kanthal I have had no issues. I have made coils from 2mm to 6mm in diameter using 32, 30 and 28 gauge on Aqua, Foggers, BIG foggers, Squape-R, Kayfun, and Kaisers with no issues. I always use a mandrel and make spread coils, no touching. I have made Ni200 builds with cotton but mostly Rayon and lately on a ceramic tube wick by rebuilding the cartridge head of a ceravape Hygeia with 30 gauge Ni200 instead of the Kanthal it came with. I have used single coil Ni200 builds at ~.25 ohms and dual coil builds as low as .07ohms on the DNA40.
There are a lot of safeties built into the DNA40, such as reverse battery, short protection, and soft limiting. Though builds should be at least .1 ohm, due to the soft limiting I have ran .07ohm.
One gigantic piece of advice from my substantial experience with the DNA40: It will test your attys big time. Any little problem and I mean little, with post screws or spring loaded center posts in 510 connectors, basically any bad electrical connection problem in your atty will result in the DNA40 dropping out of TP mode. This is evidenced by the display showing Voltage instead of Temperature but will be evident in the vape taste. The DNA40 will also test your build skills, I have found it to be an excellent tool in finding atty problems.
HTH
Jwilzz
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My local shop is getting a new one in for around 180. Internal battery with wireless charging too.
I have one. I have zero issues. Best vape ever, worth every penny I didn't pay for it (since it was a gift 
)
I personally swear by the DNA40. But take my feedback with a grain of salt, because there seems to be a lot of people who come up against bugs in the chip's firmware. This hasn't been my experience, it's rock-solid for me, but I may be one of the lucky few.
)I personally swear by the DNA40. But take my feedback with a grain of salt, because there seems to be a lot of people who come up against bugs in the chip's firmware. This hasn't been my experience, it's rock-solid for me, but I may be one of the lucky few.
Jwilzz
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Ya I've heard theres been issues. But usually I've noticed it's with specific mods. Like maybe the way they installed it or something.
I got one of the glitchy boards in my Vapor Flask that I purchased in November. Sent it to Evolv for repair, and the replacement board has been rock solid. The DNA40 gives me the best vape I’ve ever gotten out of any of my mods. 100% sold on the benefits of it.
The downside is that there’s a learning curve with Ni200 wire, and it does take some time to master (and I’m certainly not at that point as of yet). As 350ZMO points out in his post, a solid connection is a must. Some RBAs and RTAs that I have that work great with kanthal just don’t maintain a solid enough connection to make a reliable build with Ni. On the other hand, things such as the Diver and Sophia, which I’ve had only partial luck with using kanthal, are a dream to build with Ni. The same for genny’s.
Once you get started with temp control it’s hard to go back to kanthal.
The downside is that there’s a learning curve with Ni200 wire, and it does take some time to master (and I’m certainly not at that point as of yet). As 350ZMO points out in his post, a solid connection is a must. Some RBAs and RTAs that I have that work great with kanthal just don’t maintain a solid enough connection to make a reliable build with Ni. On the other hand, things such as the Diver and Sophia, which I’ve had only partial luck with using kanthal, are a dream to build with Ni. The same for genny’s.
Once you get started with temp control it’s hard to go back to kanthal.
driver379
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I love my Vapor Shark never had any issues. I've got another one on order for the wife right now. I see they are back down to ten days lead time since the holidays are over.
350ZMO
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Spot on. I can't emphasize that enough. I continue to see many posts on various forums from folks posting issues that have absolutely nothing to do with the DNA40 in of itself but everything to do with their attys and builds.
The DNA40 makes decisions based on .01 ohms that affect total heat in the build and temperature which translates into vapor amount and taste. I have witnessed this in my own builds. Note that a constant .01ohm difference is not a problem and is easily compensated for. But if the resistance seen by the DNA40 board is constantly changing at idle or under load due to as little as .01 ohm flakey connections then that is a problem E.G. from .11 to .10 to .09 etc. Yes when total resistance is .10 ohm nominal, a change of .01 ohm is a big deal. The connections must be consistent.
For example the Hygeia has been the trickiest of all my attys for ni200 because of its inherent coil cartridge design due to the silicone insulator and round push pin which makes it very difficult to get consistent solid connections down to .01 ohms between the coil wire legs and the cartridge shell and center pin. For example just taking the Hygeia apart to refill and the base resistance went from .24 to .22 ohms. You might think oh no big deal .02 ohms is close enough. Well it isn't. The vapor amount and taste changed drastically as a result requiring a complete rebuild. As Hazozita points out, the inherent design of the Diver and Sophia ensure a much more consistent connection with the coil leg wires. But that is just one of many issues to be aware of.
Then there is the coil itself. I strongly recommend spaced coils as opposed to contact coils. Just firing a contact coil and compressing until you get a nice even glow (by setting the DNA40 to not be in TP mode or firing the atty/coil on a different non-TP mod) and seeing no "hot spots" is not an indicator that you have achieved .01 ohm consistency. That visual even glow is a method I used on Kanthal but have witnessed it does not work as well with Ni200. Very minor variances in contact between the coils due to temperature related expansion/contractions and even juice on the coil itself can make for an inconsistent overall resistance in the .01 ohm range even when the coils visually glow nice and even with no hot spots. However, spaced coils don't have this issue making rebuilds much easier and quicker. And the spacing doesn't really matter. The ugliest spaced coil build I have made in 30s worked better than the best contact coil I made in 30m.
Center pins in the mod and/or the atty 510 connectors can be another source of .01 ohm or greater inconsistent resistance. I have witnessed spring loaded 510 center pins in the mod and adjustable copper center pins in my attys change the nominal resistance due to force of contact from lowering or raising the adjustable center pins, corroded brass or copper center pins and even juice in the 510. In one case the positive screw post block and center screw that the center pin screwed into was loose at the block.
The DNA40 has been an excellent tool to help me sort out these problems and more with my mods and attys. And once sorted, work marvelously.
Wicking is another great topic and the DNA40 has been an excellent tool to help me sort out my wicking related build issues. I strongly suggest setting the protect temperature of the DNA40 to 400 or 410 until you sort out your build then you can raise it higher if you prefer a hotter taste. But keep it low while experimenting with wicking (material, amount, and placement) and/or coil (gauge, diameter, and length) until you have your atty wicked to where it is flowing as much juice as it's inherent design allows without flooding and/or leaking. Adjust the power of the DNA40 down to where TP does NOT kick in through the entire length of your draw including successive draws if you chain vape. Then make a wicking/coil change and see if that build can sustain more or less power without TP kicking in. This is a great way to make build changes while measuring the effect - by how much power the build can sustain and not flood or leak and you are doing it safely IE the Temperature Protect of the DNA40 will limit the excursions into the danger zone of cooking/cracking juice and getting nasty byproducts such as acrolein.
In general I have found that wick length, the distance from the juice reservoir to the coil should be as short as possible. The coil length should not exceed 2X the diameter of the coil - unless the wick length is short across the entire length of the coil. What does that mean? A standard build is using SS mesh, silica rope, cotton or Rayon wrapped by coil. The wick length to the first loop is shorter than the wick length to the middle of the coil. Keep the coil length of these type builds less than 2X the coils diameter. If your wick is a tube, like the ceramic tubes used in the Hygeia, the wick length from the juice reservoir to each loop is the same because the hollow center of the ceramic tube is the juice reservoir. In that case the coil length can be as long as the tube and the wick length is always the thickness of the tube to each loop/wrap and every part of each loop/wrap.
HTH
something about the dna40 a lot of people gloss over is the real time readings you get on resistance, voltage, and wattage. maybe the dna30 had this? never had the authentic but i really appreciate that feature. and its necessary for temp control. also the resistance reads to the hundredths which i also appreciate for my slight ocd lol
They've had the real time resistance reading since at least their Kick and probably even with the Darwin...
FWIW, I've just changed the wick in my atomizer - not really because it didn't work anymore, but because I wanted to get rid of a stubborn coffee flavor. Here's what the old wick looks like, after a week in the atomizer:
At the rate I vape this thing, I reckon it's passed between 50 and 70 ml of juice of various kinds at high power. The dark color is mainly due to the coffee juice, but it ain't burnt. The coil was barely blackened, and just needed 10 seconds of dry-burning at 7W to clean up.
Did I mention I love temperature control?
At the rate I vape this thing, I reckon it's passed between 50 and 70 ml of juice of various kinds at high power. The dark color is mainly due to the coffee juice, but it ain't burnt. The coil was barely blackened, and just needed 10 seconds of dry-burning at 7W to clean up.
Did I mention I love temperature control?
350ZMO
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Did I mention I love temperature control?
You are not alone.
All DNA40. From L to R; DNA40 Hammond box mod with 26650 and a dual vertical coil BIG Fogger, a Protovaper XPV-40 with Kaiser, a 26650 Seven-30 converted to DNA40 with Kaiser and a Hana 18650 DNA30 enclosure kit from Fastech with DNA40 and Ceravape Hygeia.
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MasterofNone
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You rebuilt the cera huh? How does it..Er vape? Now that it's temp controlled. I've been following a thread elsewhere and having some ideas myself in regard to a xc132 "insulated" coil
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350ZMO
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It vapes great, thread is here. Sustaining 18W without TP kicking in using the blowing or water thinning tricks. However, the largest air hole is minimum acceptable to me, it is a restrictive draw. Best method is to fire it up and lightly inhale. Don't drag it hard. As vapor is produced you will feel the restriction lessen.
I find I have to dial the temperature down with rayon, otherwise it gives off a strange flavor when the wick is running dry. Not burnt or anything, just an off flavor. With cotton, say at 500 degrees, the flavor simply fades away. With rayon, if I go above 480 degrees, it also fades away but also kind of tastes funny. The wick is still white and doesn't seem to burn though.
Not really a problem, but has anybody noticed that?
Not really a problem, but has anybody noticed that?
I haven't notice a funny taste with rayon I run it around 480-500° but once I notice a flavor drop I redrip.
350ZMO
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No issues here but I run at 410. You might want to check out this video.
I don't think the rayon is burning - just giving off a funky flavor. Nothing overwhelming at all though.
I couldn't run the coil as low as 410 degrees: I vape 100% VG, and that just wouldn't be hot enough to shift it without flooding the hell out of the atomizer. Not to mention, I like my vape piping hot
I couldn't run the coil as low as 410 degrees: I vape 100% VG, and that just wouldn't be hot enough to shift it without flooding the hell out of the atomizer. Not to mention, I like my vape piping hot
350ZMO
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Interesting, I too run 100% VG. I use Graham Celucotton. No issues.
Is there any problems with the newer vapershark.
I was thinking about getting one.
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I was thinking about getting one.
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350ZMO
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From reading in another venue, I didn't see any problem posts with the rDNA 40 Vaporshark in of itself...yet.
There is report of a Celsius bug with the DNA-40 board that supports Fahrenheit and Celsius apparently with either large or small display.
As reported: In Celsius mode, turn off Temperature Protect and fire. Board will max out at 40W even though set lower, say 5W. Doesn't happen if you turn off Temperature Protect in Fahrenheit mode.
Milko Medero
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I've had my Hana DNA 40 V4s for about a week now and really digging it . Still learning to do nickel builds. I have gotten a lot of good info here on the forum.
350ZMO
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Congrats! What are you building on? Is that a quartz KF?
Milko Medero
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The tank I have on it now is a kangertech sub tank mini. I've been doing nickel builds on my Vulcan and a Tug Boat V2.