Mooch said every vendor will sell a fake battery soon or later because none of the vendors have the resources it takes to check each and every cell before they sell it to someone... what makes a trusted battery vendor trusted is what they'll do after they find out they've been selling fakes.
While it is true the fact Mooch said these ultra high capacity 10A batteries (e.g. Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA, LG MJ1) are best used under 20W per battery, if using them in a regulated mod at 20W per battery they don't give more vaping time when compared to the 3000mAh battery choices (Sony/Murata VTC6, Samsung 30Q, LG HG2). If we can assume that the choice is going to be between one of these five different batteries, the crossover point where choosing an ultra high capacity 10A battery gives noticeably more vaping time when compared to choosing a high (3000mAh) capacity battery is typically only about 17.5W of power output, not 20W. This is because a typical 10A battery has a much bigger voltage sag in comparison. Depending on how you vape (i.e. depending mostly on how much time you give the battery to rest between subsequent drags, and possibly also fairly heavily depending on the hardware limitations of the regulated mod in question) this crossover point might actually turn out to be even lower than 17.5W. In addition to this, choosing a battery with a significantly higher CDR (15A instead of only 10A) causes the battery to heat up significantly slower thereby adding more safety whilst at the same time also causing slower aging of the battery. So at 20W per battery the Sony/Murata VTC6 or the Samsung 30Q is still a better choice after all.
"Per battery" means you can just multiply the watts by the number of batteries in the mod for easy convenience.
If the 2500 mah batteries say 25R on them they are good cells just not as much capacity as a good 3000 mah cell.
Getting a bit warm in the charger is perfectly normal.
The Samsung 30Q will be fine at up to around 45W per battery, not 75W per battery.
You don't need to immediately try to understand everything he said in that particular video. His entire YouTube channel is a lot of stuff to digest... I recommend that you work your way up starting at the bottom of the list and skipping the topics that either are not relevant for how you vape (e.g., the various parts concerning mech mods) or are less a priority to new vapers (i.e. to those who are just starting to learn about batteries). Watching "Minding your mAhs" Ep1 and Ep3, and of course "Battery Basics for Vapers" Ep1 is a pretty good way to start this long journey IMO. I can understand that just these 3 videos alone are a lot to digest also. The only way to go about it is by taking it one slow step at a time and take two steps back if necessary, letting it rest for a while if it gets too boring and/or it's making your head spin. But you should always remember there are no stupid questions. Only stupid answers so don't be afraid to ask for specifics on the subject of battery safety and battery performance.
The conditional (i.e., temperature-limited) rating of 20 amps is not what you nor anyone else should recommend to anyone. I think Mooch was pretty clear on that, in Minding Your mAhs Ep20 when he said that he asks you to recommend only the CDR instead, which is only 15 amps for the Samsung 30Q, and, in Minding Your mAhs Ep3 he also explained that up to 45 watts is the maximum limit for the Samsung 30Q so... no.
Of course. Pushing limits is not so bad... as long as people can always remember to not push them too far, and as long as people are correctly informed about the added risks before they can then decide for theirselves on exactly how far they want to push them.
Every battery you've mentioned will do you just fine, as far as providing the vape you want safely. Dialing in specific ones can be learned while you're using these with peace of mind. .
75 Watts on a regulated single 18650 mod will be about 20 amps of current.
You can stop that
On VTC5A, Mooch rates it second, behind his best all around 18650: 25A P26A
For your 45w dual 18650, If you already have VTC6 there is no need to buy 30Q's.
GREAT reply I forgot that she was running a dual cell mod.
BTW, electrical RESISTANCE can be likened to the difference in the amount of restriction of the water between the water pistol and the hose.
This is an excerpt of an explanation I placed on my old blog
Ok, but the point of this thread is (or should be) to responsibly and realistically put the mind of our lady friend here at ease. Of course no vendor can guarantee with airtight certainty that NO sub par battery will EVER pass through their operation.
That's when it it's time to take a break, enjoy your vape and be patient with yourself. Trying to force feed an overload of information into your head will only frustrate you (or anybody else).
It’s one of my favorites for breaking it down to basics and helping someone visualize the concept.
They're fine. Seriously.
My only point was, that seeing your present situation is as safe as any of the rest of ours, now might not be the very best time to stress you through hammering out the less, but not unimportant fine details, when safety was your your primary concern. I was making no assertions about any particular battery, or it's better or worse suitability to your particular needs. Absolute perfection of choice is not necessary to achieve very low risk. You should enjoy using your equipment without having a knot in your stomach every time you fire it in fear that something is wrong.
That would be the very best combination of capacity and amperage, giving the most battery life for the desired level of power. That's a great thing, but it's possible to be just as safe using a cell that is not as "perfectly" suited.
oh wait. You meant what actually IS the perfect choice for you? Maybe I misunderstood.
Electricity doesn't "turn into" heat in the coil. Electricity PRODUCES heat in the coil as it excites the metal through a type pf molecular friction as it passes through it under resistance.
I should have been a teacher