Enough protruding for a direct to battery mod?

[conanthewarrior]

Hi fellow vapers .

I mainly vape regulated, but do enjoy using mechs as well, and today I fancied using a SMPL, and have built on my Twisted messes RDA.

I just want to make sure there is enough positive pin protruding, this is with the pin fully tightened. I hear different things in regards to how much positive pin should be protruding, from 2MM to simply just enough to touch the battery.

What do you suggest as a good measurement? This is how much is protruding on the RDA in question, but it would be nice to know for future reference as I have lots of RDA's and an actual measurement would allow me to know which ones I can use, and which ones to avoid.

Thanks everyone for your help, Conan.

 

[Diescum88]

That should be fine lol generally it needs to protrude far enough to see that it's not flush or inside the 510. I use my smpl almost daily usually with either a double vision or my tobh atties. Have a buddy who ran his with a crown on his( which I don't recommend but people will still do what their gonna do

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[BreSha6869]

That looks fine to me. I am using two SMPL clones today with a Fasttech parts Subtank Mini and also a Griffin. A couple of my STMs don't have a protruding pin so I don't use them with my SMPLs, but one does.

As long as the pin can't compress so the battery touches the outer 510 housing, you are good.

 

[scalewiz]

Just be very careful of dented battery tops. I dropped my normal mech once (Super-T ELA) and didn't know it but the battery top had dented in the drop. First time I pressed the fire button I was immediately greeted with a hard short and hot button!

Inspect your batteries frequently and especially after abuse. With a pin that short, it can definitely go south rather easily.

 

[Diescum88]

^ both are good points had forgotten about spring loaded pins .

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[conanthewarrior]

Thank you all for your advice .

Just be very careful of dented battery tops. I dropped my normal mech once (Super-T ELA) and didn't know it but the battery top had dented in the drop. First time I pressed the fire button I was immediately greeted with a hard short and hot button!

Inspect your batteries frequently and especially after abuse. With a pin that short, it can definitely go south rather easily.

I inspect my batteries before each use, and even my older batteries still have nice, flat positive connections.

You mention the pin is quite short-I have many RDA's with longer pins than this. In general, is the longer the pin, the better on a Hybrid to prevent a short happening?

 

[scalewiz]

There are numerous ways to have a short in a mechanical mod. The battery top is one that has happened to me. Even after checking the usual things to eliminate shorts, this one crept up unexpectedly. It had to do with the ability of the battery top to be dented in a fashion that it would create a bowl. When the bowl got deep enough, it could 'wrap around' the center pin and make contact with the negative threaded portion.

A longer pin definitely helps minimize the problem, but care should be taken to not back the pin out very far so as to make the pin a mechanical weak link (bending sideways). Also keep to a minimum the pressure that is placed lengthwise on the battery and atomizer as the mod is screwed together. This minimal pressure is one reason I liked the ELA mod; but I also see that it is the easiest to short out due to a dented battery top. My Stingray is probably the safest in that respect since the positive contact to the battery is huge and there's no way it can dent the battery. I don't use these fake hybrids for the very reasons being talked about here.

 

[conanthewarrior]

There are numerous ways to have a short in a mechanical mod. The battery top is one that has happened to me. Even after checking the usual things to eliminate shorts, this one crept up unexpectedly. It had to do with the ability of the battery top to be dented in a fashion that it would create a bowl. When the bowl got deep enough, it could 'wrap around' the center pin and make contact with the negative threaded portion.

A longer pin definitely helps minimize the problem, but care should be taken to not back the pin out very far so as to make the pin a mechanical weak link (bending sideways). Also keep to a minimum the pressure that is placed lengthwise on the battery and atomizer as the mod is screwed together. This minimal pressure is one reason I liked the ELA mod; but I also see that it is the easiest to short out due to a dented battery top. My Stingray is probably the safest in that respect since the positive contact to the battery is huge and there's no way it can dent the battery. I don't use these fake hybrids for the very reasons being talked about here.

Sorry to hear that you had a short even after checking things, was you OK, and what happened? I can see how this type of short would occur from your description.

I don't actually use mechs very often, but when I do use them I seem to enjoy them and use them for a few days, then put them away, and a month or so later the same thing happens again.

I have actually had a short occur myself, on a non Hybrid-this was a Copper Bamboo JA style mech, and happened quite a long time ago.
It has a large top contact to the positive of the battery, then the insulator. From my checks everything looked to be fine, but not enough of the insulator was out (it is adjustable).

It was my fault for not noticing this, and I went to do some other things and the mod was on a table in my room. I come back and the battery had vented, the only way I can think this happened is the very wide positive contact, and relatively small insulator, with not enough out, caused the positive to bridge to the negative which resulted in a short. But, the locking ring was locked so it could not fire, so this doesn't make full sense to me if this indeed is what happened.

I found it odd though how I did not notice anything when I put the battery in, but this was definitely a lesson to me, and why I ask seemingly simple questions in regards to mechs.
I am generally pretty sure of the answer, but that isn't enough and I would rather get 100% clarification now on what I am doing, before I do it to keep as safe as I can when using a mech.

I can understand your reasoning for avoiding this type of direct to battery mod.

I would ideally like just 1 solid performing, non Hybrid 18650 mech. I have 8 18650 mechs, and they all have good points, and other areas I would like improved.

My favourite is actually a 26650 mech called the tree of life- it just works well, and if I had an 18650 mech that was essentially the same I would be very happy .