Mine does it FREQUENTLY ... I have a little series of steps I go through to get it to stay in Temp Control, but I sometimes have to fight to get it to accept what I'm telling it. I'm not having problems with a Kayfun. Rather, this is my Billow V2 with a Ti dual coil build. I don't use the Evic in Wattage mode, so after the first time it choked the hell out of me ... I dropped the wattage setting to 30 to avoid flame outs. But losing my setting on the motorcycle is a PISSER 'cause the procedure to get Temp to stick again involves unscrewing tank, mode change, coil unlock, power off, power on, screw tank back on, several short (less than 1 sec) pulses, verify I'm still in temp control, 3 clicks, jog, jog, relock atomizer, several more short pulses verifying temp control has stuck, then and only then hit and verify I'm still in TC. This means I have to pull off of the road into a parking lot just so I can get the vape I'm asking for.
I was really hoping P. B. would come up with a fix for this truly annoying phenomenon. As some of y'all know I had this on order in all three colors at one point. This failure to do what I'm telling it to do is WHY I have not ordered the rest of the set. If Yihi releases a firmware update for the sx350j to do Ti before Joyetech releases firmware 1.19 to fix this problem ... Yihi will get my next mod spend funds (I realize I can do Ti on the sx350j by faking out the temp setting, but I want easier).
I think it's because you're fighting against the tc all the time. It keeps hitting the temp ceiling and cutting off. The wicking has to be perfect or the juice doesn't flow enough to the coil.So while the Evic seemed to do fine on the dripper with the Ti, i just can't seem to dial in a good vape on my Lemo Drop.
Regardless what settings i try on a .3 or .4 coil it just temps out after the first couple of pulls and the hit goes to shit. Not sure if i'm doing something wrong, but seems like a giant step backwards from the way my SX Mini does TC.
Sounds silly but, go to a mirror and watch how quickly and often the tc kicks in during those drags, it's a lot. The first hit is usually good because the wick is fully saturated.So while the Evic seemed to do fine on the dripper with the Ti, i just can't seem to dial in a good vape on my Lemo Drop.
Regardless what settings i try on a .3 or .4 coil it just temps out after the first couple of pulls and the hit goes to shit. Not sure if i'm doing something wrong, but seems like a giant step backwards from the way my SX Mini does TC.
Sounds silly but, go to a mirror and watch how quickly and often the tc kicks in during those drags, it's a lot. The first hit is usually good because the wick is fully saturated.
Set yer TC up to 480-510. They don't sense temperature accurately. They do however sense temp precisely.
Sounds like a wicking issue less is more with temp you want that wick to stay wet. Whenit dries the hit is weak
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
I had to wick my rta pretty loosely. After that the tc issue lessened quite a bit but never fully went away. And none of my factory coils could keep up.IDK, on my third coil attempt with the same results.
Would too much wicking make that much a difference in temp? Not like i'm stuffing it in there either, and i'm cutting the wick a smidge short of the deck before doing a pancake.
You don't even own an evic vt. What the fuck do you know?I had to wick my rta pretty loosely. After that the tc issue lessened quite a bit but never fully went away. And none of my factory coils could keep up.
Yeah sorry, I wrote that last night when I was pissed off. You can, obviously, choose to look like as big of an ass wipe as you like. My bad. Vape on!don't communicate with this asshole or he may start spamming you with pm's![]()
It does cut the wick so there is minimum 2 mm from the thread on base wall. Basically rip trippers pancake wicking method. You'll see the difference on the lemo for sure.
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Yeah or it will fluctuate and won't have a true ohm reading of the coil.Ok, gave it a try and am seeing better results. Not on par with the Sx mini and a nickel build, but workable.
So when you guys are locking in your ohms, are you doing it with a fast tap immediately after screwing on the atty? (with everything cooled off first, of course)
Ok, gave it a try and am seeing better results. Not on par with the Sx mini and a nickel build, but workable.
So when you guys are locking in your ohms, are you doing it with a fast tap immediately after screwing on the atty? (with everything cooled off first, of course)
I've had my device kick out of ti mode 3 or 4 times. Every time was with the ego xl tank with a rebuilt clr head using titanium. I've never had it happen with a ni200 head or setting and it's never happened with a titanium build on my zepyrus, epoch d1 or billow v2. I have a feeling it's because if you have a ti cool at .3-.5 ohm and it gets to hot and it thinks the ohms are 1 ohm and kicks into wattage mode. Any cool that I've had built below .25 has not had the issue.i never lock the resistance and have not once been kicked out of TC mode. i dont lock it because my atty does not come off very often.
Hey Folks,
Just wanted to touch base and provide some more information regarding the Spider Silk Titanium Wire.
TI wire for vaping can be a bit tricky to clean, we strive to deliver a great product and we are constantly working to improve. So typically there are 2 common approaches to cleaning wire: torching - cant do it (titanium dioxide) and then there is what jewelers do and that is acid etching - dont want to do it (typically have to use hydrofluoric acid – which can be very dangerous, especially the gas fumes - not saying that it WOULD be harmful, just dont want to risk it).
So instead of these options, we use natural cleaners along side with ultrasonic cleaning. This allows us to get most of the cutting oils off, but sometimes it doesnt get all of it. Again, we are working even harder to make it the best wire we can.
Just put a post on our site breaking in down further, check it out if you wish: https://www.envycig.com/titanium-wire/
For those who would like to try it out, or give it another whirl: use "spidersilk25" at checkout to get 25% off.
Any questions, email: [email protected]
Thx for the info. I will try a build lower than .25Ω and see how it works outI've had my device kick out of ti mode 3 or 4 times. Every time was with the ego xl tank with a rebuilt clr head using titanium. I've never had it happen with a ni200 head or setting and it's never happened with a titanium build on my zepyrus, epoch d1 or billow v2. I have a feeling it's because if you have a ti cool at .3-.5 ohm and it gets to hot and it thinks the ohms are 1 ohm and kicks into wattage mode. Any cool that I've had built below .25 has not had the issue.
It can happen even if you have the resistance locked because even with a resistance lock, it sees the jump in ohms as you fire the coil. The resistance lock just tells the device what the resistance is as you begin to fire it. You see this on busardo video when he locks a resistance in and then it sees the resistance as different than the one he locked in. But as soon as he pressed the fire button, it goes back to locked resistance reading.
This would be an easy fix for them. All they need to do is eliminate the auto wattage mode when the coil is over 1ohm. Unfortunately, we don't have ability to update firmware.
So basically you're charging roughly 250% more for your cleaning process? Am I missing something?Hey Folks,
Just wanted to touch base and provide some more information regarding the Spider Silk Titanium Wire.
TI wire for vaping can be a bit tricky to clean, we strive to deliver a great product and we are constantly working to improve. So typically there are 2 common approaches to cleaning wire: torching - cant do it (titanium dioxide) and then there is what jewelers do and that is acid etching - dont want to do it (typically have to use hydrofluoric acid – which can be very dangerous, especially the gas fumes - not saying that it WOULD be harmful, just dont want to risk it).
So instead of these options, we use natural cleaners along side with ultrasonic cleaning. This allows us to get most of the cutting oils off, but sometimes it doesnt get all of it. Again, we are working even harder to make it the best wire we can.
Just put a post on our site breaking in down further, check it out if you wish: https://www.envycig.com/titanium-wire/
For those who would like to try it out, or give it another whirl: use "spidersilk25" at checkout to get 25% off.
Any questions, email: [email protected]
I've had my device kick out of ti mode 3 or 4 times. Every time was with the ego xl tank with a rebuilt clr head using titanium. I've never had it happen with a ni200 head or setting and it's never happened with a titanium build on my zepyrus, epoch d1 or billow v2. I have a feeling it's because if you have a ti cool at .3-.5 ohm and it gets to hot and it thinks the ohms are 1 ohm and kicks into wattage mode. Any cool that I've had built below .25 has not had the issue.
It can happen even if you have the resistance locked because even with a resistance lock, it sees the jump in ohms as you fire the coil. The resistance lock just tells the device what the resistance is as you begin to fire it. You see this on busardo video when he locks a resistance in and then it sees the resistance as different than the one he locked in. But as soon as he pressed the fire button, it goes back to locked resistance reading.
This would be an easy fix for them. All they need to do is eliminate the auto wattage mode when the coil is over 1ohm. Unfortunately, we don't have ability to update firmware.
Businesses charge what they charge to allow for all the people involved in selling the product to achieve a profit. There are substantial cost is running a business: marketing, production, materials, etc. E-liquid for example: $0.25 for bottle, $0.25 for label and aesthetics, $0.5 for actual liquid, $0.5 misc. So that premium eliquid that you buy (30ml priced at about $20) is well over a 1000% mark-up. BUT then you add rent, electric, machines, employees and the cost goes up. THEN you add development costs, packaging costs, graphic design costs, marketing costs. FINALLY you have sales people who want to make a profit, a distributor who wants to make a profit, then a retailer who wants to make a profit. In the end, the guy making the product is making less than you might think.So basically you're charging roughly 250% more for your cleaning process? Am I missing something?
Businesses charge what they charge to allow for all the people involved in selling the product to achieve a profit. There are substantial cost is running a business: marketing, production, materials, etc. E-liquid for example: $0.25 for bottle, $0.25 for label and aesthetics, $0.5 for actual liquid, $0.5 misc. So that premium eliquid that you buy (30ml priced at about $20) is well over a 1000% mark-up. BUT then you add rent, electric, machines, employees and the cost goes up. THEN you add development costs, packaging costs, graphic design costs, marketing costs. FINALLY you have sales people who want to make a profit, a distributor who wants to make a profit, then a retailer who wants to make a profit. In the end, the guy making the product is making less than you might think.
If you dont want to make the things you buy from scratch, then there is going to be a mark-up.
Businesses charge what they charge to allow for all the people involved in selling the product to achieve a profit. There are substantial cost is running a business: marketing, production, materials, etc. FINALLY you have sales people who want to make a profit, a distributor who wants to make a profit, then a retailer who wants to make a profit. In the end, the guy making the product is making less than you might think.
If you dont want to make the things you buy from scratch, then there is going to be a mark-up.
@dred Did tightening your screws down and getting a .19Ω reading eliminate your evic jumping out of TC mode?
OK, I guess the other businesses don't have the same over head you do, I guess. I have soapy water and iso alcohol at home. I'd rather do my own wash and get 40 feet for $15 dollars. Thanks for clearing things up.Businesses charge what they charge to allow for all the people involved in selling the product to achieve a profit. There are substantial cost is running a business: marketing, production, materials, etc. E-liquid for example: $0.25 for bottle, $0.25 for label and aesthetics, $0.5 for actual liquid, $0.5 misc. So that premium eliquid that you buy (30ml priced at about $20) is well over a 1000% mark-up. BUT then you add rent, electric, machines, employees and the cost goes up. THEN you add development costs, packaging costs, graphic design costs, marketing costs. FINALLY you have sales people who want to make a profit, a distributor who wants to make a profit, then a retailer who wants to make a profit. In the end, the guy making the product is making less than you might think.
If you dont want to make the things you buy from scratch, then there is going to be a mark-up.
Damn, gotta find a good one to replace my sigelei 150.Well my ipv3li came today I did the 200w upgrade now it has titanium mod! But still only 50j god damn it. So my evic vt still has the lead for size and 10 more watts.. So the ipv3 Li will be at home device only.did a ti build on my Marquis 6/7 dual coil 3mm 24g @.111 ohms its chucking the tits! Can't wait for the velocity I got coming to show up.
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
I really hope that's the issue.I've experienced the jumping out phenomenon several times since then. However, I've slowed the frequency. The issue seems to stem from instabilities in the build. I'm still vaping the same build. It's reading at .21 ohms now, but the last time I picked it up and got thrown into power mode Evic refinement had the build measuring .14 ohms. So, I unlocked the resistance, removed the atty, powered the Evic off, powered up, and set it back up as a new coil. It measured .22 ohms refined to .21 ohms.
Next time I build the billow I'm going to build it lower to ensure more clearance between the coils and the chamber walls. I'm thinking I'm close enough to the walls to have some chance of resistance fluctuation to to the difference in resistance of a coil which feeds through the leg attached to the negative post versus a coil being fed through contact with the chamber wall which is directly connected to the negative path as well. Hopefully that makes sense, but in other language ... I'm saying my problem may come from trying to stuff oversized coils on the build deck. I was doing this 'cause I was targeting a .2 ohm dual spaced coil build. I can get a lot more comfort space by accepting a .15 or so ohm build.
Retire the 150 and grab a ipb3 Li I got mine at originvape.com 99 I believeDamn, gotta find a good one to replace my sigelei 150.
I really hope that's the issue.
Well my ipv3li came today I did the 200w upgrade now it has titanium mod! But still only 50j god damn it. So my evic vt still has the lead for size and 10 more watts.. So the ipv3 Li will be at home device only.did a ti build on my Marquis 6/7 dual coil 3mm 24g @.111 ohms its chucking the tits! Can't wait for the velocity I got coming to show up.
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
I honestly don't feel the difference in ramp up or heat. Not sure about the ipv4 update but Denny from pionner said soon maybe a week or too I heard. The sx350j mini has a titanium upgrade already tooSo ... I gotta ask. Are you making a 1:1 joules to watts comparison? Or, do you experience faster temperature ramp up with the Evic set at 60 watts than you do with the IPV set at 50J? And, since you seem to keep up with things pretty well ... any leads on the sx350j firmware update that'll match what the sx330 just did for your IPV?
The sx350j mini has a titanium upgrade already too.
The 150w upgrade v2.2 I thinks called has titanium and I think 60jOutstanding ... I've been trying to root out that piece of information. I knew it had to be on the books, but ... this means it's officially time for me to build myself a sx350j powered monster.
I actually am going to wait a few weeks and see the verdict on it and a few others before jumping in head firstRetire the 150 and grab a ipb3 Li I got mine at originvape.com 99 I believe
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Well since it has no charge board and just a yihi chip Ill bet my left nut its ass good as the original ipv3 with no chargingI actually am going to wait a few weeks and see the verdict on it and a few others before jumping in head first
That's what I expect. If not, I am sure you will be the first one to let us knowWell since it has no charge board and just a yihi chip Ill bet my left nut its ass good as the original ipv3 with no charging
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
And thank you for all the wire I didn't expect so much more then generous. I love it in my Marquis. Seems like a denser vape than ni200That's what I expect. If not, I am sure you will be the first one to let us know
I've got the 120?watt upgrade, it does not have it. Hafta look at the 150 upgrade...The 150w upgrade v2.2 I thinks called has titanium and I think 60j
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk