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Evic VTC mini now 75 watts w/ 1.2 upgrade :)

razor--blade

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If you go to official site, download the update (still named 1.10), once you open it, there will also be a 1.2 bin.

They haven't announced it or updated website about the changes. The only change I know of is the wattage now goes up to 75 watts in both regular & temp control modes.

Install at your own risk since I haven't seen anything directly from joyetech about it..... But it is on their official site & included when downloading update, both 1.1 & 1.2,,, and its all over Reddit,,, haven't seen any complaints yet. Only positives.
 

DevAuto

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Sweet! Just pulled down the update, definitely 1.2 bin included. Haven't had a chance to put it on the mod yet ... maybe later tonight. Thanks for posting this!
 

razor--blade

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Ninja'd by a Razor Blade. :p

We have a massive ECF thread about the TC issues and I just saw the mention of the 1.20 stealth inclusion. Grabbed it, works fine. Don't know yet if it helps the TC problem though.

Original VT owners are gonna be pissed. :(

:D
I haven't had any issues w/ TC yet. I'll hafta check that thread out. Sucks they put this update out but haven't explained it or made an announcement... Only thing I know is it now goes up to 75watts... Hopefully SS in near future.
 

Nailz

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Just did the update, thanks @razor--blade :)

I am one of them people who has problems with TC with the evic mini, so be interested to see if this has changed anything, just right now I don't have any tanks with TC coils in them, probably give it a go tomorrow :)
 

razor--blade

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Major thanks to @razor--blade for posting this and especially the (evidently still) secret path to V1.2.

Everybody with a VTC Mini should be thanks bombing the OP button.
Ha, thanks.... But honestly I first seen it this morning on myvaporium & Reddit. It appears it was discovered yesterday by some German guy & slowly spreading around. I lurk these forums & was surprised it wasn't mentioned here so figured I'd join up just to spread the word :)
 

Sir Vapesalot

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Ok, i read the instructions on joyetechs site, downloaded the software and updater and it doesn't do anything. So if anyone on Windows could guide me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. I am using Windows 10 and am computer illiterate so any help would be greatly appreciated!!

It looks pretty straight forward, except #1 on their instructions "download files to same root"... Yep. No idea what that means... Thinking that could be where I'm going wrong..


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Sir Vapesalot

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@Sir Vapesalot
Ewww... Windows 10. <runs away> :)

A root is a Chinese folder... evidently. o_O
It's asking whether to unzip the D/L in the same folder. Click yes if you wanna keep it with the Zip.

Don't the steps on the screen work?
This is about twice as easy as an M Class F/W update.
Well, it was a bunk micro USB cable...
Tried another and it worked like a charm...

EDIT: I just realized if you click "reply" to someone's post on Tapatalk you can view them editing their post... Live.
How many ways are you going to attempt to reword the same post?
The latest edit still made you sound like an ass.... But thank you for the post immediately after providing the link for those who don't have it....



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Mroutlaw

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Just did the update, thanks @razor--blade :)

I am one of them people who has problems with TC with the evic mini, so be interested to see if this has changed anything, just right now I don't have any tanks with TC coils in them, probably give it a go tomorrow :)


what kind of problems do you have with TC on the vtc mini
 
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dave61

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One note about the update
i had to remove my battery before the update would complete
It may have just been my particular mod but just for info
 

Mroutlaw

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Mine worked fine with battery in, so maybe it was a glitch. Sometimes these things are finicky about connection to the computer
 

Myk

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Perhaps the problem is the dry cotton test?
I don't understand why people are being so cryptic. If there's a problem state what it is.
If it is the dry cotton video I haven't had a problem with burnt hits, and I did take my eGo One Ti coil until it wasn't feeding good enough. But I could see the way it working ending up doing the same as what my Sig 75w does and continues to try with too high of volts until it burns.
But like I said I haven't had a dry hit to cause me to try the burn test.
 

Nailz

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The problem with mine and a few others are reporting, is it hits temp protection straight away and stays below 10 watts, giving hardly any vapor at all, tried with multiple tanks, premade coils, homemade coils, and makes no difference, even though works fine on other mods.

But I still love the mod in power mode, and I am not big into TC, so it is not a big deal to me anyway.
 

CorallineAlgae

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I just did the update. Easy peazy. I generally don't use Ni200 or Ti wire but so far it works beautifully for stainless steel in normal power mode. I may toss in a Ti Crown coil just to give it a go.

My hardware is V1,0 and I updated from firmware v1.02.
 

Myk

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The problem with mine and a few others are reporting, is it hits temp protection straight away and stays below 10 watts, giving hardly any vapor at all, tried with multiple tanks, premade coils, homemade coils, and makes no difference, even though works fine on other mods.

But I still love the mod in power mode, and I am not big into TC, so it is not a big deal to me anyway.

I clicked through about 20 max length pages of that thread of people talking about the TC problem but not saying what it was (very typical of ECF as I recall).

I don't doubt that there could be a problem but what you describe in IVP terms is dry coil/no liquid with a wet coil. On IVPs it seems to be temperature dependent, too low you'll get it. And touching coil builds cause it.
Odd thing, my dual TFV4 won't do it and as I built more TC they've all got better about how low they'll go.
I had that experience with eGo One but my SubTank works on VTC. That build is one I figured out with the problems on the IVPs.

Has there been anyone with a one that works and one that doesn't swap and set them up with their battery and tanks?
 

Mal the Mello King

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I've been running mine with the 0.5 Crown coil in Ni mode with no problems so far and no switch back to VW mode


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Mattp169

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I just did the update. Easy peazy. I generally don't use Ni200 or Ti wire but so far it works beautifully for stainless steel in normal power mode. I may toss in a Ti Crown coil just to give it a go.

My hardware is V1,0 and I updated from firmware v1.02.
wtf did yo uget a ti crown coil? unless you made it. if so send me one ,please
 

CorallineAlgae

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wtf did yo uget a ti crown coil? unless you made it. if so send me one ,please

I have the RBA head. Building a Ti coil is about as easy as a SS or kanthal build, but the RBA is so hit or miss. I haven't tried rebuilding a normal head with Ti yet. Might as well give it a go.

I know the theory behind rewicking and rebuilding them. its the same as a maganus coil, but all my attempts so far short out

I haven't had one short out on me yet but it may just be luck. Did you torch the coil when you re-wicked the head? You have to be really careful if you decide to torch the steel coils.
 

Mattp169

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no iwas trying to rebuild a maganus coil with a ti dual parrallel
 

Doug.E.Fresh

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Not to sound repetitive but the issue I have with my VTC mini is that it does NOT lock in the original room temp resistance. It will slowly creep higher (occasionally lower) thus making the temperature preset reach that temp usually much quicker causing the temperature protection warning and not firing. I'm using a saucecode with herakles 0.2 Ni coils at around 47 watts but need to put the temp at around 470-490F to avoid the warning which occasionally still does happen. I'm currently using firmware 1.2 but noticed the issue with 1.1 and 1.02 also. I read somewhere if you turn it off and click it x10 times it will calibrate the room temp. Just remember the number displayed is in celsius. Can anyone confirm this will fix my issue?
 

Doug.E.Fresh

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Yes I'm using the padlock for the initial resistance. I actually noticed earlier that it was 0.23 ohms after firing maybe half a dozen times the screen flashed off and back on quickly with the resistance suddenly at 0.29 ohms. I took out the battery (about 80%) and put back in and then the resistance was back to 0.23 ohms. The VTC mini seems to give me the temperature protection message (not to the point where it's not useable just frustrating) but compared to my pioneer d2 and sigelei 75w at the same settings and coil heads with a much lower selected temp does not. I know the VTC mini has step down whereas the d2 and sig75 do not; could that possibly explain it?
 

Mroutlaw

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For those of you who are having an issue with the vtc jumping out of temperature mode into power mode, that is caused by user error. It happens because the mod thinks it's not a Tc coil anymore and is caused by loose connections. Make sure your atty is tightened down, the coil head is nice and tight and all leads on rebuilt coils are tight. Also make sure that you don't have long leads. This is an issue not only on the vtc but also the smok xcube 2 and even the dna200. They really need to make these devices so you can lock it into Tc mode and not switch back to power, similar to the sxmini
 

Doug.E.Fresh

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For those of you who are having an issue with the vtc jumping out of temperature mode into power mode, that is caused by user error. It happens because the mod thinks it's not a Tc coil anymore and is caused by loose connections. Make sure your atty is tightened down, the coil head is nice and tight and all leads on rebuilt coils are tight. Also make sure that you don't have long leads. This is an issue not only on the vtc but also the smok xcube 2 and even the dna200. They really need to make these devices so you can lock it into Tc mode and not switch back to power, similar to the sxmini
My particular issue does not jump out of temp mode into power mode. The locked resistance does NOT stay locked. Its stays in Ni temp mode the entire time. If I don't lock it; I notice every time after the screen goes to sleep it's asking if I put in a new coil (also annoying). It seems to have a mind of its own at times.
 

Mroutlaw

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My particular issue does not jump out of temp mode into power mode. The locked resistance does NOT stay locked. Its stays in Ni temp mode the entire time. If I don't lock it; I notice every time after the screen goes to sleep it's asking if I put in a new coil (also annoying). It seems to have a mind of its own at times.

That sounds like a loose connection somewhere or dirty contacts. What type of tank are you using? Are they rebuilt coils or stock coils?
 

Mal the Mello King

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Mine hasn't asked about a new coil at all even after I switched to the lower resistance nickel coil.. It just read it and vaped away..


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Doug.E.Fresh

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That sounds like a loose connection somewhere or dirty contacts. What type of tank are you using? Are they rebuilt coils or stock coils?
I'm using a saucecode with herakles 0.2 Ni coils. @Mroutlaw there was a tiny amount of juice on the contacts which I just wiped off. I'll have to see if it changes anything.
 
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Myk

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My particular issue does not jump out of temp mode into power mode. The locked resistance does NOT stay locked. Its stays in Ni temp mode the entire time. If I don't lock it; I notice every time after the screen goes to sleep it's asking if I put in a new coil (also annoying). It seems to have a mind of its own at times.

I've had some locking issues. I can say I've had it change a locked in temperature or not, I'm sure I've had it read a below room temperature coil but it kept the lock in. My problem was getting it to forget a previous lock in. Running through the modes with it unlocked would fix that.
I think making it too "smart" is exactly the problem. Let the user have the say on whether it should lock in a new coil not this auto detect crap.

Instead of paying attention to temperature protection flashing pay attention to what the Ω and watts are doing. If you have a .3Ω coil and it's good going to protection and dropping the watts at .6Ω then you start going to protection at .4Ω that would be a problem. If it's a bad hit but still protecting at the same .6Ω that would indicate resistance at a connection somewhere.
And don't check while not puffing like I saw videos showing, of course it's jumping into temperature protection, they're not puffing. That is by design in TC, you don't want a burnt wick if you fire in your pocket.
My VTC does jump to protection at a lower Ω than my D2's do. .12Ω lower, which is a lot but the temperature doesn't need to be set so much higher to get them to stop at the same Ω.
 

Myk

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what's this about the Sig75?

Step down? Not sure, I haven't really used it in power.
I had one that if set at 400° it would burn anything. With a straight bare wire loop it would glow bright at 400° and dull at 212°, and it would continue pulsing the glow. I sent it back for exchange.
The 2nd one temperature settings really meant nothing, it was all watts dictating what it did, 212°@20w or 75w was the same as 500°@20w or 75w. A few "resets" showing firmware and TC works tolerably. I may have to do that reset if I change lock in or remove the battery.
Neither had/has any sort of dry coil protection. Their low voltage depends on the temperature setting.
370° will pulse down to .7v and up. 380° pulses down to 1v. If it's a dry wick that "high" temperature sustaining "cut off" voltage will burn.

I saw a video with it cutting voltage to 0v doing a dry cotton test so at one time they must've had dry coil protection. But I'd say the odds of me getting two acting so similar and being a flaw are slim and they've changed something.
 

Mroutlaw

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Mine hasn't asked about a new coil at all even after I switched to the lower resistance nickel coil.. It just read it and vaped away..


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If it detects that there is a large difference in resistance it will automatically assume its a new coil. If you want to force it to ask for a new coil, fire the mod with the old atty on. Then remove it from the device and press the fire button with nothing on it. Then install the new coil. It should ask if its a new coil
 
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Mroutlaw

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I'm using a saucecode with herakles 0.2 Ni coils. @Mroutlaw there was a tiny amount of juice on the contacts which I just wiped off. I'll have to see if it changes anything.

The slightest difference in resistance can trick the mod into thinking its a new atomizer. This is the case with all TC devices. Even if you lock in the resistance, it will think that the starting resistance is what you locked, but the TC won't be as accurate, since its reading the resistance again as you fire. For example, if you lock in the atty at .12ohms, but it reads the atty at .15ohms, as soon as you press the fire button, it will start at .15ohms. This will result in you hitting the Temperature limit prematurely since it thinks the ohms are higher than they are. For the most accurate Temperature control, its always best to NOT lock in the resistance and instead make sure you have good, solid connections. Thats why you want to either use pre-built coils, or make sure the leads from post to actual coils is a short distance on home built coils. Make sure the coil head is nice and tight and the contacts on the bottom of the coil head, the base and the 510 pin in clean. That little bit of dirt will mess with the resistance.

This is the case on all TC devices, not just the Evic VTC mini. It happens on the DNA200 as well.
 

The Vape Crusader

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I think this officially puts the VTC Mini ahead of the IPVD2, now that the wattage capabilities can be equal.

Not that I don't like IPV, after all, my most powerful mod is one :).

But still, loooove that mini for ADV!
 

2c5000

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those of you who say the resistance isnt staying locked... after the first update, the resistance is read in real time. so when you fire it, as the coil temp rises, the readout on the resistance display rises also. keep in mind that the display is just showing you the resistance rising. the chip is still operating on your locked in resistance. so it's actually working exactly as it should. if this isnt what you are experiencing then maybe im missing what your problem is...?

@Mroutlaw is right about the VT and VTC "jumping" out of TC. this is caused by loose leads.

also, good to hear about the update. i dont ever up my wattage that high, but ill be doing the update anyway.
 
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SirVtHondaGuy08

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Ughhhh I'm gonna dig the laptop out and dust this girl off and update here, my Smok Cube also needs to be updated.

5f883c82a9e5be8cc0ad671d95b5d70d.jpg



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SirVtHondaGuy08

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Honestly I haven't used mine in about 2 weeks, this has been my daily carry even at work. Granted it sucks carrying it in my chef pants....
8bd6ca518728bf03e30c5eb5049be304.jpg



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Mroutlaw

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I'm picking up where I left off last night/this AM, with the Crown SS 0.25 in Ti, having used it all last evening on the D2 in Ti mode.
First SS TC impressions so bear with me...

On the D2 I had it around 280F-310F, seemed normal compared to the gist of Ti under Ni mode and dropping 70-100F in temp.

But on the VTC, like you, I've got the temp all the way down at 210-220.
What the hell?

With the TCR of SS being about half of Ti, and Ti being only a third of Ni, I wouldn't have expected the temp drop with this to be so, well... drastic.

It's working great, but I feel I'm misunderstanding something. :confused:
The crown stainless steel coils are d grade (equivalent to 304). so the tcr is different than 316l
 

SirVtHondaGuy08

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The smok xcube 2 update brings it to 180watts
I saw that, but both the cube and the mini have been sitting on my shelf and I've solely been using the Snow Wolf. Except for today, today I've been using the mini all day and man I forgot how awesome this thing was/is.


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Mroutlaw

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Some comparative data would make your reply actually useful. :rolleyes:

Just starting with SS TC so I haven't paid enough attention so far, but...

I'm aware of perhaps 6 SS grades having TCRs ranging from perhaps just under 0.001 to perhaps a tad higher than 0.00150 (higher even?). Of course... I've no idea now where the thread was that listed them. :(

I believe Ti is somewhere between 0.00150 and 0.002, but closer to the higher number.

And what I've seen of Ni 200's TCR puts it right around 0.00600.

Now I need to understand just what value the TCRs represent.

Ni200 is around .00600
Ti is .00366
SS 317L is .00094
SS 316L is .000879
SS 304 is .001016

Many times you will also have to make fine tune adjustments to these figures because all wire is slightly different.
 

Mroutlaw

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Your Ti is much higher than the xCube uses, which unfortunately is the only source I was going off of.
But that would account for the numbers not working in my head.

Is TCR as simple as "ohms rise per 1 degree C"?

I think the xcube2 ti is set at .00350. Those figures come off steam engine. They have a section called wire wizard. It will give you a graph for the dna200, but you can figure out the approximate tcr. Go to that and then choose the wire you're using. (don't worry about the top setup for coil setup, it doesn't affect the tcr. If you look in the bottom left corner, there's a box that says results. The third line down you will see TCR in gaping range. Those are the figures, just do the math. So titanium for example is 3660 x 10^-6. Which equals .00366. SS316L is 879 x 10^-6 which is .000879

Problem with SS is that all the wires are very different so you need to fine tune in the device. If you look at the graph, the resistance barely changes as temp goes up, so it's not super reliable. I find if I use that figure for SS on the xcube2, it hits temperature limit way too quickly. I have it at .00105 and it seems to function well.
 

Mroutlaw

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I think I was misremembering discussions of using SS on the Cube, and upping the TCR to 0.002.
I was recalling that as Ti. :oops:



Knowing that my stock Cube only goes down to 0.004, I set it there and tried the SS with the temp all the way down at 200F. Damn thing actually works. Being "off" from what would be Ti, it's fiddly as hell, tiny changes in res adjust and even 10F up or down make pretty large differences... but it actually works. Easier back in Power Mode (or Ti on the VTC or D2). :p

Why don't you upgrade the firmware for your xcube? The new update allows you to go to 5 decimal points. It also brings the mod to 180watts and you get an extra preheat setting of minimum.

Yes, since there not a huge resistance change with stainless steel, it's extremely finicky. That's why when TC first hit the market, evolve used Nickel because the resistance changes so drastically with temperature and even there, if your resistance jumped too much or was off even a little, it wasn't accurate.
 

SirVtHondaGuy08

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Man after taking this little beast of the shelf yesterday I can't stop using it!! Gonna do the update later tonight(wife stole my laptop for the day).


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