Got a multimeter plus charger that shows voltage, I was.....

[conanthewarrior]

Pulling my batteries much to early! I thought cheyenne had been using hers for long enough, so said let me check. It was still at 3.94 Volts!

No wonder I was getting such short life times, I get about 4-6 hours now when I pull at the right voltage .

At least I know I never over discharged a battery though lol, Plus I found my nemesis clone is good,

510 Pin to outer case displayed 4 Volts, the battery was 4.2 Volts, so that is only 0.2 volts loss. I have yet to test cheyennes, mine is brass, hers is stainless steel so I guess it might be a bit more due to conductivity, but she is loving hers.

We have found some GT-T V2 tanks on fasttech, I am getting a rainbow one, and she is getting a purple one, with a pink extra metal shell, and 6 glass replacements, one clear coming with the metal casing and top of the RTA, and 5 spares in purple.

I ordered it as the poles were a fair distance from the outer casing cover, and it is similar to a subtank style so no leaking possibilites, and they have got great reviews on there.

I am not sure what the tank is a copy of, but it holds 5 Mls, and is pretty cool looking. It all comes to about £22, she is going to order on Friday when she gets payed so looking forward to using them.

I realised the subtank mini was not safe for use on a mech, due to the wiring being so close to the outer case of the RBA. I only will use that on regulateds as I did get one error whilst out, the wire had come loose and touched the outer RDA case. It did not come up with SHORT!!! like it does with a short circuit, but just check atomizer, but with a mech I am not taking chances, hence getting these new tanks (at the moment I will only use my lemo on my Mech, and that is currently set up for TC so need an extra tank for use with it.)

 

[NemesisVaper]

The Subtank is perfectly fine on a mech as long as the build is sound. The wires need to be in the recess and trapped by the screws. If clipping the leads worries you, you can always tighten the screws then twist and tug the wire. The resistance wire will break very close to the screw head that way and there should be nothing sticking out to come in contact with the outer barrel.

You've got just as much chance of something coming loose or shorting on an RDA as on the Subtank just that on an RDA it a easier to check your build ad you can just pull the cap and look right in.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The Subtank is perfectly fine on a mech as long as the build is sound. The wires need to be in the recess and trapped by the screws. If clipping the leads worries you, you can always tighten the screws then twist and tug the wire. The resistance wire will break very close to the screw head that way and there should be nothing sticking out to come in contact with the outer barrel.

You've got just as much chance of something coming loose or shorting on an RDA as on the Subtank just that on an RDA it a easier to check your build ad you can just pull the cap and look right in.

Ahh fair enough, I have been using it wrong then (Embarrrased) I have been wrapping the wire all the way round the screw so both channels are filled! I didn't think of only one, if it is as safe with that method I will use that.

 

[NemesisVaper]

Yes mate, pop the wire in just like the stock build. Each post should have the wire go in one channel. The wire snaps nice and easy with a quick twist and pull when the screw are tight. Careful though, if you see the coil move around be sure to re tighten the screws or you'll pull the coil right out. I've done that a few times.