GRIFFIN RDTA LEAKING LIKE A BASTARD

[VAPESWAPSHOP]

QC issues on some. The ones that are well made work very well. The ones that are janky, well, not so much.

So finally got around to taking this all the way apart today and evidently they sold it to me with no o-ring in the top because I never took it completely apart. Odd but whatever, shoulda checked it sooner I guess? Just figured it would have been handled already so yeah QC issues for sure. It looks like the glass is suppose to slide into the slot under the top but its actually an o-ring slot. I also noticed if you tip it upside down the ring easily falls off so that could have happened if someone took it apart to show it or look at it. Hopefully thatll help the OP
ON a side note I drove off with my RX and Griffin on the back of the car today and ended up with a dent on the drip tip and some chips in the RX paint. Pretty solid for not having a silicone cover on the mod or a band on the glass, gave me a newfound respect for both pieces of equipment as well as remind me to order another belt clip for it!! BAD DAY turned out ok, no more leaking in my Griffin and I still got a spare glass...

 

[advancedvapesupply]

So finally got around to taking this all the way apart today and evidently they sold it to me with no o-ring in the top because I never took it completely apart. Odd but whatever, shoulda checked it sooner I guess? Just figured it would have been handled already so yeah QC issues for sure. It looks like the glass is suppose to slide into the slot under the top but its actually an o-ring slot. I also noticed if you tip it upside down the ring easily falls off so that could have happened if someone took it apart to show it or look at it. Hopefully thatll help the OP
ON a side note I drove off with my RX and Griffin on the back of the car today and ended up with a dent on the drip tip and some chips in the RX paint. Pretty solid for not having a silicone cover on the mod or a band on the glass, gave me a newfound respect for both pieces of equipment as well as remind me to order another belt clip for it!! BAD DAY turned out ok, no more leaking in my Griffin and I still got a spare glass...

If i had a dollar for every time my reuleaux dna200 survived a fall, I could buy another one for sure. Everyone on the YouTube channel asks me why my reuleaux looks so beat up, and my answer is the same...my reuleaux has been through a lot. But it's better made by far than any mod I've ever owned. I know some people have problems with the 510 especially on the rx, but mine has been nothing but perfect and is still just as good as the day I got it

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[VAPESWAPSHOP]

If i had a dollar for every time my reuleaux dna200 survived a fall, I could buy another one for sure. Everyone on the YouTube channel asks me why my reuleaux looks so beat up, and my answer is the same...my reuleaux has been through a lot. But it's better made by far than any mod I've ever owned. I know some people have problems with the 510 especially on the rx, but mine has been nothing but perfect and is still just as good as the day I got it

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Yeah same here, my rx has been through hell too....I was sure it would be fine but I just knew I was gonna have to try and fix the rta somehow and definitely thought the glass would be broken, but nope. I think the shape of the rx helps protect because its wider than tanks and will roll when it falls sideways.

 

[advancedvapesupply]

Yeah same here, my rx has been through hell too....I was sure it would be fine but I just knew I was gonna have to try and fix the rta somehow and definitely thought the glass would be broken, but nope. I think the shape of the rx helps protect because its wider than tanks and will roll when it falls sideways.

I've only broken one tank on the reuleaux when dropping it. And that one was a very fragile one. You're right though, most of the impact is taken by the mod and the drip tip

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[saytar]

Two good tips, will try these next time.

Get a real small, very sharp pointed dental pick or such to use and fluff, fluff the cotton or wick tails (trim only the resulting wild ends), then use that same very small sharp instrument to put the cotton into the juice channel............a very thin sharp instrument will keep you from packing so tight as to cutoff wicking. The tails should just bare be down in the channels.........

The fluffing is necessary for air and juice to travel up and back down the cotton wicking.....poor air no juice movement or proper wicking, wayyy to much air movement too much juice movement and wicking and probably some leaking from air ports.......

I've found that most wicking materials as they come out of the package are wayyyy to tightly manufactured to "just work right" without SOME working it.

This all assumes that you don't have an air leak around the O rings.... or loosely tightened bottom or top............

 

[Doc Roland]

Been reading this thread for an hour trying to figure out what was wrong just to stare at the pictures and realize they didn't put an o ring on my tank. I do have a question though. Do your guys glass fit perfectly in between the metal or does it feel a bit off. Like it wasn't made to git right between everything? It's better now that I got that o ring on there but I don't think it was the right o ring. They didn't give me any of the black ones that go under the juice flow cap. I don't know maybe it's the company I bought it from but the thing looked like it's been through hell

 

[Doc Roland]

If only I would have went to the second thread sooner.... wasted 3 hours just to see you had already found the same solution as me. Well, at least it's fixed..

So finally got around to taking this all the way apart today and evidently they sold it to me with no o-ring in the top because I never took it completely apart. Odd but whatever, shoulda checked it sooner I guess? Just figured it would have been handled already so yeah QC issues for sure. It looks like the glass is suppose to slide into the slot under the top but its actually an o-ring slot. I also noticed if you tip it upside down the ring easily falls off so that could have happened if someone took it apart to show it or look at it. Hopefully thatll help the OP
ON a side note I drove off with my RX and Griffin on the back of the car today and ended up with a dent on the drip tip and some chips in the RX paint. Pretty solid for not having a silicone cover on the mod or a band on the glass, gave me a newfound respect for both pieces of equipment as well as remind me to order another belt clip for it!! BAD DAY turned out ok, no more leaking in my Griffin and I still got a spare glass...

 

[VAPESWAPSHOP]

Mine felt off but we must have been unlucky. My ring under the deck has started sliding up the deck away from the airflow ring now and its back to leaking again. I did put it through hell at this point though so I will take the blame for that one lol. If anyone knows how to take it apart and re attach it somehow thatd be awesome!! Otherwise I guess thisll tank will make a messy paperweight...

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[saytar]

Mine felt off but we must have been unlucky. My ring under the deck has started sliding up the deck away from the airflow ring now and its back to leaking again. I did put it through hell at this point though so I will take the blame for that one lol. If anyone knows how to take it apart and re attach it somehow thatd be awesome!! Otherwise I guess thisll tank will make a messy paperweight...

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i've rewicked/recoiled my multiple times and so far have never had an issue with the rings slipping......that said I have noticed that with some acidic juices (pineapple, orange, lemon, lime, cinnamon, etc) that I have had issues with my Crown top gasket around the stack SWELLING and becoming elongated and causing some leakage. I have also noticed that the O-rings swell a tiny bit with similar juices....not so much as to cause a leaking issue though.

My Griffin 25 glass is about as flush with the metal end caps as most tanks are and haven't had an issue with leaking or fit there......most of the O-rings DO swell some when highly used and saturated, so I conclude that SOME swelling is the nature of the beast.......most rings are 1.0mm cross section and on a 25 mm tank would most likely be a 23 mm ID if measured (1mm + 2 sides...25mm -2mm=23 mm ID, but I'd check with calipers). You could check the O-ring store and order some (most likely in a 25-50 piece quantity)......usually around 2-4 dollars a package.....another option is to get some calipers and measure all your O-ring grooves AND the cross section size of the o-rings on the tank and order several appropriate sizes....replace them all..........Especially if you use lots of acidic based juices, you'll most likely need more frequent replacement......

I emailed Geek vapes and they sent me a list of spares parts for these tanks, including pricing on sets of replacement O-rings..........no sizes, just a price on a kit (most of these have only 2ea of all the rings and were around $9 bucks a set + shipping from China ).............a few bucks more and you could get 25-50 of each size (after measuring all of them of course). I ordered a bunch for my ALL the size o-rings in the Boreas and have a ton of o-rings for under $30 with free shipping (I have 5 Boreas tanks, so thats not too many to have, for me that is).

It is also possible that the glass in your kit was swapped for the glass in another brand tank and might be thicker or thinner glass....................I'd try the spare glass or order a new glass tank specifically for your tank.......something is not right in Denmark ...............the only leaking mine have done is if the wicking is too light and/or hanging over the air ports and dripping down and out the air slots.....

 

[idjekyll]

Forget all the other replies in this post. I went through what you did and only ONE method works. First of all, leaking happens when you refill it and pressure builds up when you close the top cap. Here's what I do. I refill as per normal but when you want to screw back the top cap, as long as it is secure I turn my tank upside down and screw it quickly. Still upside down, I open up my juice flow holes and let the pressure out and after a few seconds I put it right side up again. ZERO LEAKAGE. If you wick it properly, Pressure is your true enemy here. TRY IT. I'm sure you'll thank me.

 

[VAPESWAPSHOP]

I know my camera sucks on the phone but the only way is to show you really.........the metal ring that holds the tank on next to the airflow is sliding off of the base of the deck. Its loose and the whole tank slides up and down. I am going to have to do surgery on it lol. Gonna try and Take the ring that attaches to the tank off and put some high temp glue under it and put it back together in hopes it works. I droppoed it quite a few times and it seemed to get looser as time went by and as it slides around thats when it leaks. If I prop it to where its at an angle and it stays still it wont leak. Howerever, every time I spin the airflow a tad it goes back to loose and sliding up and down.again.

I did recently realize the pressure thing too and supposedly if you close the airflow while filling it wont leak. I found much better success too with it upside at the very last turn/tighten of the cap when closing (you can watch the bubbles move too when the pressure pushes out toward the airflow)

 

[saytar]

I'm confused on this problem...........I loosely wick mine for max VG and fast wicking with barely any cotton in juice slots, insure no wicking over air holes, prime coils and wicking then fill.....

When I fill I don't close air slots, don't close juice control I just unscrew top, fill to the brim, screw top back on and vape.............no leaking..none..ever. The ONLY issue I have under hot conditions is some slight...very very slight what I call "juice dew" around the air ring, somewhat like dew in the morning on grass.......and this only happens if the tank sits for extended periods in a hot room. Under normal daily useage I get no dew, no leaks........it may be due to my using MAX VG, a thinner mixture MIGHT cause this issue, but it would have to be extremely thin juice and too loose wicking not properly pushed back from air holes or placed wrong in juice slots in deck......

There is something else in play here.........the whole tank steel structure MAY be warped or sprung from repeated falls. The only tanks that the pressure issue really shows up on are those using bottom coils with from the bottom juice feeding into the wicks (Boreas, SMOK RDTA, VCMT, etc)....now those really need the "vacuum pressure" to be really, really absolutely proper and there after filling............sometimes.

 

[pjaysnowden]

I have just bought a a Griffin RTA. Make an 8 wind 30ga kanthal coil. Wicked it and it leaked like fuck. Took the wick out....made it again but with enough wick to block the juice channels. Making sure it doesn't come down past the ring. Filled it.....no leaks. First ever RTA.

 

[Nevweezy]

I have just bought a a Griffin RTA. Make an 8 wind 30ga kanthal coil. Wicked it and it leaked like fuck. Took the wick out....made it again but with enough wick to block the juice channels. Making sure it doesn't come down past the ring. Filled it.....no leaks. First ever RTA.

Congrats on your first rta. I love rta's and rda's. I rarely use subohm tanks anymore. I love rebuilding them myself. You are gonna love not having to buy premade coils...