Head scratcher TFV8

[Acgraves]

Hey everyone. I've been beating my head against the wall over an issue I'm having with one of my TFV8's.

Quick background, I bought my 1st (black) one brand new about a month ago. I've had 0 issues with it using both premade coils and the rba. It fires great every time. I picked up my 2nd one (stainless) at the local vape shop. Someone had traded it in on an upgrade, and I got it (minus coils, but with rba) for $20. I installed a coil that had previously worked fine in Black, and Stainless fired ok at first. After a tank and 1/2, I started getting "check atomizer" on my H-Priv 220. I put the same coil back into Black, no issues. Back in Stainless, "check atomizer". Tried another coil and BOTH rba's with the same results.. All good in Black, none good on Stainless. Checked and adjusted center pin on 510 connector with no obvious problems, and no change in results. I removed the pin and o-ring/seal completely, and did notice a small tear in seal. I had an old Cleito just sitting, so I put the pin and damage free seal back into Stainless...nothing. Any ideas?

 

[IMFire3605]

Could be a natural short, thus the reason the person traded it back in, was having nothing but troubles with it. Thus the reason I am hesitant to buy used products second hand. I'm not to savvy on the TFV8, though places to look generally follow, the 510 connection of the tank, that little floating pin might have become to compressed and not making a good connection with the coil head though it is making perfect connection with the mod 510 pin. Positive wire could be sticking out to far on the coil head causing a dead short, this will be the wire lead sandwiched with the positive pin of the coil head. The coil heads could be so naturally low in resistance to begin with, the use of them has lowered the resistance further. The Stainless tank being clean metal, no coatings may have lower natural resistance than the black one, that lower resistance is all that is needed to shift a shorted atomizer or atomizer low reading.

Test the base with one of the RBA sections with a 0.5ohm coil, if it reads and fires properly, the culprit will be the coils are to low to begin with. If it doesn't read and fire such a higher ohm coil, your culprit will be at the coil head to base 510 pin connection, I've seen micro-meters space completely give a check atomizer signal with other tanks numberous times. If that is the culprit try using a longer base pin, or shim the coil base pin with a cut off piece of insulator material to give just that needed enough room to make force the pins to make contact.

 

[Acgraves]

Could be a natural short, thus the reason the person traded it back in, was having nothing but troubles with it. Thus the reason I am hesitant to buy used products second hand. I'm not to savvy on the TFV8, though places to look generally follow, the 510 connection of the tank, that little floating pin might have become to compressed and not making a good connection with the coil head though it is making perfect connection with the mod 510 pin. Positive wire could be sticking out to far on the coil head causing a dead short, this will be the wire lead sandwiched with the positive pin of the coil head. The coil heads could be so naturally low in resistance to begin with, the use of them has lowered the resistance further. The Stainless tank being clean metal, no coatings may have lower natural resistance than the black one, that lower resistance is all that is needed to shift a shorted atomizer or atomizer low reading.

Test the base with one of the RBA sections with a 0.5ohm coil, if it reads and fires properly, the culprit will be the coils are to low to begin with. If it doesn't read and fire such a higher ohm coil, your culprit will be at the coil head to base 510 pin connection, I've seen micro-meters space completely give a check atomizer signal with other tanks numberous times. If that is the culprit try using a longer base pin, or shim the coil base pin with a cut off piece of insulator material to give just that needed enough room to make force the pins to make contact.

Thank you for the response, IMFire. Of course, this was the 1st used gear I ever bought. I loved my other one, so I figured it was a no brainer...I guess it was, lol. I just figured that there's only so many things that could go wrong with a tank, and assumed all would be well. As for the contact pin, I did swap that and the accompanying seal out with a donor set from a Clieto. The diameters are identical, but I could swear that the one from the Clieto was just a hair longer than the one I took out of the TFV8. I have also since been able to thread Stainless out of the mod 2 & 1/2- 3 turns, and I'll get "ohm too low". Again, I get none of these results with Blacks base. That confuses me a little, though. If I thread up all the way, the mod won't recognize it. If I loosen it up to the point of wobbling, it can see it, but rates it too low. Doesn't that at least partially point to what you said about Stainless not having a coating, and that affecting the resistance? It's like it "grounds" out to itself when the base makes physical contact with the mod.?

 

[IMFire3605]

?????

Well if it is reading when loose, but not when tightened down, then I'd be pushing the bottom pin out of the base, remove the insulator and inspect that area for any manufacturing burs, snipped off coil wire, something is in there making a dead short, inspect the insulator thoroughly with a magnifying glass, check for tears and other anomolies, one side higher than the other. The recess of the 510 threads on the base could be uneven as well. The culprit is the base 510 pin sounding like, contacting a bur, or when seating down, the mod 510 pin compressing the base pin to tilt and contact the wall of the recess. If you can't figure it out, you've basically atm got yourself a $20 paper weight, which is a heck of a lot better than the $45 regular price.