Help please having multiple problems with kangertech subtank mini

[tatty29]

I have had my subtank two weeks ( use an istick 50w with it) I have started building my own coils for it and it worked fine for first week and a half. Now I have loud gurgling coming from the tank, seems as if the tank gets flooded, e liquid spitting into my mouth and now my coils ( I have tried 5 new ones tonight) light up from the bottom and outsides. Am at my whites end and don't know wat to do. I'm using 24 kanthal .5ohm coil and Ken doh cotton.

Any ideas why I am having so many problems?


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[tatty29]

It's now started leaking over night both into the air flow and out from around the seal at the bottom of the glass and I'm getting a burnt taste. I'm now thinking to chuck it


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[OBDave]

Sounds like an issue of not enough wicking - the RDA cap is screwed down tight and not coming loose when installing, right?

 

[tatty29]

No it's not that cuz I over wicked one of em slightly ( found it slightly harder to get a pull) Iv tried different battery's to. The weirded thing is now on both battery's the volts are jumping about without the watts changing. It's happening to the original battery and to a battery I got just yesterday. Beginning to think vaping ain't my thing since I'm having so many problems


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[OBDave]

No it's not that cuz I over wicked one of em slightly ( found it slightly harder to get a pull) Iv tried different battery's to. The weirded thing is now on both battery's the volts are jumping about without the watts changing. It's happening to the original battery and to a battery I got just yesterday. Beginning to think vaping ain't my thing since I'm having so many problems


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Sorry to hear it's so bad you're thinking of giving up. Is there any chance the screws holding the coil down are coming loose, or are so tight they've chopped the wire? Have you had the same problems with the factory coils? What kind of battery/mod are you using the Subtank on?

 

[tatty29]

I don't think it's the screws either cuz it's happening on the occ head to and there aren't any on that. I'm using the I stick 50w with the subtank. No Iv not tried factory coils since I recoiled the first ones that came with it but then this started about 3 or 4 coils I had built myself on the rda. Iv checked every coil on the ohm meter to as I want to be safe. Could a broken seal that holds the glass tight have any thing to do with it cuz it's leaking around the bottom of the glass quiet profusly?


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[tatty29]

Iv also made sure that every thing is screwed together tight on the RDA when putting it all back together so it's not that. Going to change that o ring in a minite and see if that helps with other stuff as well as the leaking. Iv had probs all the way through my vaping journey over the last 2 years so really shouldn't be surprised really


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[OBDave]

I don't think it's the screws either cuz it's happening on the occ head to and there aren't any on that. I'm using the I stick 50w with the subtank. No Iv not tried factory coils since I recoiled the first ones that came with it but then this started about 3 or 4 coils I had built myself on the rda. Iv checked every coil on the ohm meter to as I want to be safe. Could a broken seal that holds the glass tight have any thing to do with it cuz it's leaking around the bottom of the glass quiet profusly?


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That could do it - mine came with a spare set of tank o-rings, maybe try changing those out.

 

[Teresa P]

I'm recalling a previous post by a forum member I can't seem to remember who had a problem something like this. He said that when the tank was on a level surface by itself it was ever so slightly uneven. I can't remember if he turned the glass upside down or inverted the ring, one or the other, and it worked. Of course it may be a different instance entirely, but worth a look.

 

[tatty29]

Thanks Dave I will try it. Thanks Teresa I'll give that a try to. It's not happening so much at the minuite but it still crops up


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[AmandaD]

I have had my subtank two weeks ( use an istick 50w with it) I have started building my own coils for it and it worked fine for first week and a half. Now I have loud gurgling coming from the tank, seems as if the tank gets flooded, e liquid spitting into my mouth and now my coils ( I have tried 5 new ones tonight) light up from the bottom and outsides. Am at my whites end and don't know wat to do. I'm using 24 kanthal .5ohm coil and Ken doh cotton.

Any ideas why I am having so many problems?


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Just wanted to be clear, what do you mean when you say your coils light up from the bottom and the outsides? Are these the OCC or the RBA?

 

[tatty29]

They light up from the outside coil n work there way into the middle. I think I'm going to have to replace it any way as my coils have started distorting when I fire them up to and then pinch em with my pliers. The ohm meter reads fine at 0.5 bt then this happens and by battry locks up for protection and then outing ot back on the ohm reader it reading much higer some times up to 4ohms

 

[tatty29]

No these r the rba coils I have been building. It was fine with the first five or six then started doing this. As well as lighting frm the outside the glow tends to start on the bottom of the coil closest to the deck

 

[AmandaD]

No these r the rba coils I have been building. It was fine with the first five or six then started doing this. As well as lighting frm the outside the glow tends to start on the bottom of the coil closest to the deck

Sounds like you might be shorting out - be sure the legs aren't touching the airhole at all.

 

[REDD]

Definitely the wicking ,, less is more , make sure the juice channels are not covered w cotton

 

[AmandaD]

Definitely the wicking ,, less is more , make sure the juice channels are not covered w cotton

I disagree - I wick my subtank RBAs very heavily

 

[REDD]

And yes , I agree to check the screws , I have had same problem and tightening the screws was the fix

 

[nightshard]

Definitely the wicking ,, less is more , make sure the juice channels are not covered w cotton

I agree with less is more, but not only near the juice channels.
The wick inside the coil needs to be tight enough so that it won't move freely on its own, but loose enough so that it moves freely when you pull it (do this before you put e-liquid on it and it expands).
When the wick is stuffed too tight into the coil it's unable to conduct liquid properly, which leads to overflowing.
Another good method is to fluff the wick, which is done by cutting a long strip, removing the thin top and bottom layers (koh gen do) then making points on both sides without touching the middle, then cutting it in the middle, producing two fluffy wicks.

 

[REDD]

Lol. Heavy wicking ? Good for dry hits ,, enjoy

 

[tatty29]

Hi every one and thanks for all the advice. The legs r clipped extremely close to the posts AmandaD so I don't think its that bt I was wondering if I was shorting. Is there any thing else other then this or coil touching the deck or lose screws that can cause the short iv checked all three of these each time n it doesn't look to be any of these.

As for wicking I use the pancake wicking method so the cotton Is no were near the juice channels and through the coil its got a small amount of tension when its pulled through. Wat widths of wicking do people use in there subtank 3ml coils.

 

[AmandaD]

Lol. Heavy wicking ? Good for dry hits ,, enjoy

I have 3 I use on a daily basis, and I never get dry hits

This rba is fairly unique in that it can take a lot of wick and withstand chain vaping with no dry hits. I cut my cotton and roll it so that it goes through without distorting the coil, but only because it's fairly compressed. Then I fluff it out again on the edges. I use contact coils, but people have had good success with spaced coils - you might try that perhaps?

 

[REDD]

Sounds like a good technique , I haven't had issues w building on kanger rba, but it's a constant struggle for perfection thanks

 

[tatty29]

I will defanantly give it a go. Iv managed to stop the leaking from the original post and the flooding has stoped. Some times I get a couple of pops or crackles bt I'm thinking That maybe Im under wicking a little bit so this could stop that.
The coil doesn't distort when I'm wicking its when iv fired it up and its glowing just befor I want to pinch coils closer together. Iv GT to try n rebuild again later and I'm not looking forwards to it.

 

[tatty29]

I had a few rebuild go right but now my subtank just keeps shorting and I can't find a reason why. Ready to throw in the towel with it all. Only upgraded my setup a couple of weeks ago but Iv just about had enough with it all. Is there any thing with just the RBA deck its self and not the coil that could be causing the problems or even the battery's I'm using?


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[Mroutlaw]

Hi every one and thanks for all the advice. The legs r clipped extremely close to the posts AmandaD so I don't think its that bt I was wondering if I was shorting. Is there any thing else other then this or coil touching the deck or lose screws that can cause the short iv checked all three of these each time n it doesn't look to be any of these.

As for wicking I use the pancake wicking method so the cotton Is no were near the juice channels and through the coil its got a small amount of tension when its pulled through. Wat widths of wicking do people use in there subtank 3ml coils.

Sounds like you have a couple issues going on.

As for the coils glowing outside in, you have a short somewhere. Is this on the kangwr rba, or rebuilds of the occ? The thread seems to have jumped around so I wasn't sure. Now, if on the rba, do you see the. Glowing outside in before you screw the top cap and sleeve on, or after? If before, try taking a small screwdriver, syringe needle or even a piece of kanthan and gently rake it across the coils. (Like your brushing it). That will eliminate shorts if your not touching somewhere. Also, make sure your coils aren't overlapping. They need to either be contact or spaced, but if the criss cross, you'll get a short. Also, make sure the lead that goes to the coil isn't crisscrossing the first coil on each side, I get that problem a lot, especially on the one that goes under. Just make sure there's a little gap between the leg and the bottom or top of the coil it goes to.

Now if it's happening after you put the sleeve or top cap on, your coils may be scraping the sleeve.

As for leaking and not wicking, sound like a bad o ring or you have a slight crack in tank. Or the tank isn't all the pressed on top. Something is letting air in to release the vacuum pressure. This much more likely the cause rather than a wicking issue especially if it's happening when the device just sits.

Hope this helps


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[tatty29]

Thanks for the advice Mroutlaw. This is on the kanger rba. I see the glowing befor I put top cap and sleeve on and this can be were the ohms jump about to bt they also jump bout after putting sleeve on in sum cases. I use a kuro cooler so the coils themselves are pretty uniform and I only do single coil builds. Iv tried rebuilding again tonight and got through building 15 and not one I managed to get with out a short bt at least none melted or distorted altho one coil did jump sudenly to nearly 9ohm. To be honest I'm goin to give up on it at least for now because I'm just so frastrated with it. I got my first five/six builds perfect and no problems but all of a sudden nothing was going right which is why I'm questioning if its achilly the subtank rather then wat im doing with it. The leaking has stoped tho so that's a posative. Just really disheartened as I was really looking forwards to building.

 

[framzit23]

I was recently having the same problem. Try removing the rba deck from the base. There will be a small piece with four holes in it. Stick something in one of those holes and tighten it. That worked for me

 

[BoomStick]

I was recently having the same problem. Try removing the rba deck from the base. There will be a small piece with four holes in it. Stick something in one of those holes and tighten it. That worked for me

All subtank rba users should check this. Gotta make sure the positive block is tight.

 

[bondo]

Also check the insulator between the deck and contact pin. If your leads aren't perfectly straight then it may be cutting through the insulator when you put the contact pin back in.

Edit,nvm.
I just realized you are referring to the rba head.

 

[Mroutlaw]

Thanks for the advice Mroutlaw. This is on the kanger rba. I see the glowing befor I put top cap and sleeve on and this can be were the ohms jump about to bt they also jump bout after putting sleeve on in sum cases. I use a kuro cooler so the coils themselves are pretty uniform and I only do single coil builds. Iv tried rebuilding again tonight and got through building 15 and not one I managed to get with out a short bt at least none melted or distorted altho one coil did jump sudenly to nearly 9ohm. To be honest I'm goin to give up on it at least for now because I'm just so frastrated with it. I got my first five/six builds perfect and no problems but all of a sudden nothing was going right which is why I'm questioning if its achilly the subtank rather then wat im doing with it. The leaking has stoped tho so that's a posative. Just really disheartened as I was really looking forwards to building.

Can you post a picture of your build.? Close up from the side looking down center of coil

 

[tatty29]

Thanks guys will check all of this once I'm back from a birthday party.

Framzit23. I was wondering if this may be the issue but I have been tightening it with my fingers. I will use some thing to tighten it. Does it need to be extreamly tight?It has previously come out when trying to remove the sleeve of the rda to the base.

Thanks bondo at the moment I am using my occ coil with out issue

Mroutlaw. I will post picture but how do I add one to the thread please. I'm using my iPad.

I will let you all know how I get on.


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[framzit23]

It should be pretty tight. Just bee careful not to strip it out. There are only a couple threads

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[tatty29]

Thanks. I will definitely try this as I have been questioning it.

 

[Mroutlaw]

Thanks guys will check all of this once I'm back from a birthday party.

Framzit23. I was wondering if this may be the issue but I have been tightening it with my fingers. I will use some thing to tighten it. Does it need to be extreamly tight?It has previously come out when trying to remove the sleeve of the rda to the base.

Thanks bondo at the moment I am using my occ coil with out issue

Mroutlaw. I will post picture but how do I add one to the thread please. I'm using my iPad.

I will let you all know how I get on.


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[tatty29]

This one befor putting on the battery

This one after being fired up on the battery. Still lighting up from outside coil to the middle


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[Teresa P]

Is there any space underneath the coil, or is it touching the metal underneath?

 

[tatty29]

I always make sure there's none of the coil touching the bottom. The bottom of the coil is about legal to were the wires go into the posts maybe a fraction down from that. I have tried with coil down but still off the bottom and same happens ( just a tight fit) . Does the coil its self look ok?


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[AmandaD]

It should be glowing from the middle out - not the outside gradually getting to the middle. Take something pointy when it's just fired and still glowing , and just rake it across the coils. Would help also if you posted a pic from the side - something's not right that the resistance is changing that much.

 

[Teresa P]

That's why I was asking if it was elevated, couldn't really tell without a side pic and it would maybe explain.

 

[tatty29]

Yeah I know it should I just can't get em to glow that way any more. Like said in previous replies I had none of these issues with the first five or six rebuilds I did and I don't know what has changed.

From the side


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[AmandaD]

Hmm, looks perfect!

Is the connection pin tight? (Take a toothpick,stick it in the holes at the bottom and tighten it up as much as you can).

 

[tatty29]

I have had none of these problems with the occ heads. I have tightened the tube under the coil so that rules that suggestion out.


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[tatty29]

That's what I have done although with a tiny screwdriver. Didn't change a thing. I'm going to leave it tonight cuz getting frustrated with it yet again. I'll rebuild again tomorrow and use the edge of screwdriver to run over the coil gently whilst it's still glowing like u suggested and c if that makes a difference.


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[AmandaD]

Can you show a closeup of how the leads are wrapped around the screws?

 

[tatty29]

iPad won't let me get a pic that close up. The pics I put up are closest I could get. The leads just run straight out by the screws and are clipped as close as I can get them. There's just the most minute amount which wen running a finger over is just noticeable by touch.


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[tatty29]

This is the closest I could get

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[AmandaD]

That could possibly be your problem. I wrap mine around the screws - not all the way around but so that a good amount is trapped, ensuring a constant connection.

When you have the energy to make another coil, try putting the wire around the screw, not just running it down the side.

 

[tatty29]

Ok I'll try that when lil one in bed tomorrow. It's how I have always done it though so don't see why it would change but at the moment any thing is worth a try. I did try it once but found it so fiddly that I gave up. Thanks for taking the time to look and give advice.


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[tatty29]

I'll let you know how I get on.


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[Mroutlaw]

That could possibly be your problem. I wrap mine around the screws - not all the way around but so that a good amount is trapped, ensuring a constant connection.

When you have the energy to make another coil, try putting the wire around the screw, not just running it down the side.

I agree. You may not be getting a great connection just going down the side. Try and get the wire under the screw head.

Also, something else to try, do you have any other gauge wire? Maybe try 26 gauge or even 28.

One other thing I like to do. Put your rba on your mod and fire. Get it glowing, then let go and try and tighten the screws while the wire is still hot. That will help get a tighter connection.


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