Thanks for the reassurance bout the jump after firing. I think at the moment I will stick with the 26 gauge although I do want to try building twisted wire coils at some point.
I'm currently using a istick 50w and vamping between 15 and 20 watts depending on the juice I'm using at the time.
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If you're only vaping at 15-20 watts on the istick, I wouldn't worry too much about having to be at .5 ohms. The main reason people started building so low was because they wanted more wire exposed to the juice for bigger clouds and still be able to get high wattage. This applied to mech mod people even more because they control their wattage by the ohms of their build. In your case, you're using a regulated device that will give you the watts you want regardless of the ohms of the Atty (so long as you're within the range the device can handle). You could build a 1.8 ohm coil and still achieve your desired wattage. That's why variable wattage is so much better than variable voltage. When we only had variable voltage, it was much more work and required more of a knowledge of ohms law since the ohms of the coil determined what voltage you set at. Your device does all that for you.
Kanger subtanks work very well at higher ohms. The reason it's called a sub tank is first, it's all the rage right now (am I showing my age with that term) and second, it's built to withstand the heat (ie peak insulators) that sub ohm builds put out at high wattages. In fact, I custom rebuild the occ heads to 1.6ohms for my sister-in-law's mother and they work awesome.
Remember, lower ohms take longer to heat up so if u build a .7ohm coil, you'll get more vapor quicker than a .5 ohm
In the end, just keep practicing and think of it as a hobby and you'll end up having fun rebuilding and trying different things. I recoil many of my heads almost daily just because I have fun tinkering