Help with mech building

[Frogger]

Maybe i should watch a tuturial instead of take the risk of sounding stupid but i have a few specific questions how they relate to me personally

I run .4 to .5 ohm coils, everything from triple core fused to 26 awg.

That puts me at 35 watts or so, correct?

My awg i run at 12 watts, my fused claptons i run at 20-25 watts.

I assume this is do to wire mass?

Anyway, i have a mod that does true bypass, not a semi-mech locked at 3.7, and not only cant i get a good vape off it, the battery goes down about .01 volts every hit, so after about 50 hits at most it needs to be charged.

Is this typical of mechs? i can learn all the formulas i want to, but i have said before i am completely ignorant when it comes to actually using them, only that i build so high using a single battery one isnt really a danger to me, or so ive been told

 

[nadalama]

The watts you get on a mechanical device will fluctuate depending on how fully charged the battery is. Google tells me that a fully charged, good quality 18650 battery will be at 4.2 volts, but as you use it, the voltage will slowly drop down to probably about 3.2 to 3.5 volts. Somewhere in that range, it's time to recharge the battery. Even using a calculator, I often have to guess on this value because I don't have a way to measure the volts except to put the battery in a regulated mod, and then, the mod is working its own magic behind the scenes to balance everything out.

What battery are you using? How old is it? How much of a charge does it have? What kind of metal is your wire made of? One coil or two?

Even with a battery that isn't absolutely fully charged, you should be getting decent performance out of that 26awg wire, unless it's kanthal and you're using about 8 or 10 wraps of it. If there are a lot of wraps, it will take a minute to get hot. (Not literally a minute, but it'll take some time.)

Thinking about the results you describe, it sounds like one or more of the following is happening: (1) your coil is huge and probably kanthal, (2) your battery is either old, needs a charge, or is underpowered, or (3) you have some serious voltage drop going on somewhere in the gear you're using.

I'm not the one to offer all the calculations that go along with this - my comprehension of electrical formulas and such is dismal. @Vape Fan is a good candidate for that, but he's still going to need some specific information, so if you get a chance, give us answers to those questions I posed.

 

[Vape Fan]

You can enter your battery in from the drop down menu, if it's there.
Here's a Molicell P28A @ .45Ω. I could seemingly agree w/ 20 mins vape time(actually,, 20 mins of theoretical button press seems a lot to me, but ijdk), but 236 puffs, IDK, sound a lot to me but if your mod counts puffs....


What mod do you have that bypasses the safety features when in bypass mode?

Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Battery drain calculator for APVs/mech mods. Returns amp drain, power drain, amp limit headroom, run time, estimated number of puffs, etc.

www.steam-engine.org

 

[Vape Fan]

Sounds like your battery is under powered. Does it warm up when vaping it? How many amps does Mooch say it has for continuous discharge?

 

[MyMagicMist]

In agreement, under powered battery, or too massive of a coil.

Steam Engine rounds up to 3 coils to get 0.46 Ω. I wrap 26 ga Kanthal 5 times on a 3 mm ID and come out to around 0.35 Ω.

Why the discrepancy? Not sure, it may be because I scrunch my coils together instead of spacing them. Might be because I scare the coils with my ugly mug. *shrug*

Machined coils of the same ga I get are often .50 Ω, or even .60 Ω. Not going to say their machines are wrong nor Steam Engine is wrong. Not saying I'm wrong, either.

(Been told I'm not in my right mind. I looked, not in my left mind either. Hmm.)

Steam Engine like my opinions, advice here is at best meant as a guidepost. There are any number of factors which can come to play. I still think Waldo just needs to stay home.

 

[Frogger]

I still think Waldo just needs to stay home.

Tff, i luv yer answers (fer real, not being sarcastic)

Thank u for the replies, the battery is a hohme run xl 21700, so its fine.

Lets continue this discussion next time i take something apart so i can try some stuff with the awg instead of fused claptons on an rta instead of a boro

 

[Vape Fan]

the battery is a hohme run xl 21700, so its fine.

Nobody knew that because you didn't state it in the og scenario. Anything that the battery could be a part of, ppl are going to ask, and make it part of a possible solution if that possibility exists.

Anyway, i have a mod that does true bypass, not a semi-mech locked at 3.7, and not only cant i get a good vape off it, the battery goes down about .01 volts every hit, so after about 50 hits at most it needs to be charged.

You don't want to tell us what mod it is either?
Leaving components out of the equation makes it more of a guessing game for those reading/replying.

Is this typical of mechs?

It's not a typical mech. It fires through some wires, through a switch, through a 510 pin, and uses software.

i am completely ignorant when it comes to actually using them, only that i build so high using a single battery one isnt really a danger to me, or so ive been told

With something like those first 4 words, facts will be asked.

The battery is _________.
The mod is ___________ in bypass mode, (and it has no cutt off voltage so I can run the battery down past it's own limits and damage itself or worse[see how that sounds?])
The atomizer is ___________.
The build is claptons or 26ga @ .4-.5Ω and I run 12 - 25W
Only getting 50ish pulls.
"Here's 1 piece of a 4 piece puzzle, what's the answer?"

Edit: Something else that's relevant about the battery.

@ Nadalama: What battery are you using? How old is it? How much of a charge does it have?

Yeah, how old is it. How long you been using it? When did you buy it. Is there a date code under the wrap? Can you test a full charge to see what the voltage is? Can you test how long it holds a charge, other than vaping on it? Even the best batteries have a life expectancy.

 

[MyMagicMist]

Anyway, i have a mod that does true bypass, not a semi-mech

Is this typical of mechs?

It's not a typical mech. It fires through some wires, through a switch, through a 510 pin, and uses software.

Good catch. Will agree, even if it says "true" bypass, it's still going through a regulated device or at the least a mosfet.

The above is an exploded view of a typical mechanical tube mod. For the switch, there is a spring from the depression button to the contact plate. When depressed, the spring exerts purely mechanical (physical) energy to move the contact plate up the negative/positive (depending on polarity as the mod is designed) end of a battery.

This closes the circuit, allowing current to flow. Some say it opens the circuit. *shrug* I say closes as to mean it completes, makes whole the circuit. If contact isn't made, no current flows. There are no wires involved, no chips, not even mosfets.

The above shows a mechanical box style mod. The contact point on it is the nut used to hold the 510 pin assembly in the mod. That further connects to the negative contact point, again closing a circuit.

The positive contact point is a "bar" style that runs up along beside the juice bottle. The button uses physical force to bend the "springy" contact bar to touch the 510 nut. Again, no wires, no chips, no mosfets.

Using mechanical mods is the well, the only way to use a mechanical mod. I have one or two regulated devices myself what say "true" bypass mode. *smh* Bullshit I say and recall to not read everything I trust. See there? Bob's your uncle.

No, we are not "cracking" on you. This is just stuff everyone that vapes can stand to have a little insight about. There is risk with using mechanical mods no matter how safe any expercienced mechanical mod user makes it out to be. For example, interested to know if your battery is heating up.

If so, be aware of how to immediately break contact with the battery. Take a battery cap off, remove the atomizer, toss the mod at a wall. A battery gets too hot it could explode, or vent, or both. I've had to remember to pull batteries out of a mod, go running outside with a hot battery to a clear spot.

Sometimes it's EOL (end of life) for the battery, or maybe some metallic debris missed on a wipe off, Murphy paying a visit. Shit happens, and it can get real, real fast.

Not to scare anyone, yet also to not encourage outright being stupid either.

 

[Vape Fan]

Check this out.
Samsung 50S. You can see Mooch for how it does or doesn't stack up against Hohm Run XL. It's not bad. Fairly =. 50S nudges it a bit but for intent and purpose here, have a look see.




That 50S is pretty new. Less than 10 cycles. Given what we have so far, and only imo, which isn't worth a ton, still kinda points to your battery.

 

[Vape Fan]

No, we are not "cracking" on you.

 

[MyMagicMist]

I like these batteries from this vendor. Not had any real issues with them. One or two have dimpled on the positive ends, but pretty sure I know why. Thinking they hit EOL and as a safety "popped". Not using them.

The vendor sells them in pairs only. If you buy 1 unit, you get two batteries, ergo two times the price. The vendor also does in house rewrap. It isn't done deceptively, but rather as being safe. Customers get what is advertised on the tin.

There are other reputable vendors. This one is simply one I found, have ordered from and not ever had any trouble. Excuse me.

*Sees Waldo getting ready to leave his house, draws 9 mm Ruger, aims, shoots Waldo in the foot sending him back in his house.*

 

[Frogger]

Thank u, if it is my battery, even more of a discouragement cuz batteries r expensive and fancy regulated mods compensate for that stuff.

Ill read the posts thouroughly, thanks for the info

 

[gopher_byrd]

I pretty much only use pure mechs. I don't count puffs or what ever, mainly because I use multiple mods through out a day and I don't have enough fingers and toes to keep track. That being said, a regulated mod even in bypass will have circuitry to deal with that will take energy from your batts. I would not judge your batts based on that.

Here's what Mooch has to say about the Home Run XL's that you have:

Bench Test Results: Hohm Tech Hohm Run XL 30.3A 4007mAh 21700...slightly overrated, good performer

These tests below only note the ESTIMATED ratings for these batteries at the time I tested them. Any battery that is not a genuine Samsung, Sony, Murata, LG, Panasonic, Molicel, or Sanyo can change at any time! This is one of the hazards of using...

www.e-cigarette-forum.com

 

[MyMagicMist]

I pretty much only use pure mechs. I don't count puffs or what ever, mainly because I use multiple mods through out a day and I don't have enough fingers and toes to keep track.

I concur and do likewise. Presently, using three mods in my "rotation". Sometimes I may use twice as many, other times one seems to be a daily "favorite". I have no rhyme or reason for that, either. I don't think on it.