Hot button/hot battery/new mod

[mcr*****]

hello. I'm new to vaping so forgive me for my ignorant questions.

I bought today a Geo mech' with copper contacts, pack of IMREN max 40a 3.7V 18650s, AN sitting up top is a brand new smok baby beast tank. To be clear, all of these products are "new". Except maybe the Mod itself due to it's a special built mod from a local shop/chain.


I got it home and immediately got the batteries charged and then after about 2-3 hours I took one off and did what one is supposed to do. It wasn't until about mid way through my maiden voyage I smelled an odd burning smell. No reason for the tank to burn because it was fill. Eventually the button got very hot very fast (about two seconds in of hitting it) and the lower bottom of the tube was hot. I took the battery out and as suspected it's also hot. So much so a very small corner of the wrapper melted. Battery isn't deformed, dented, or showing signs of wear but it had extreme for a second.

I attempted to clean contacts and tried again but still batteries were getting hot.

My question is why? Do I need to THOUROUGHLY clean contacts and threads? Is it that the contacts aren't holding the battery snug and I need to screw one or the other? From my research it's a short...this only happens when hitting the button so that makes sense to me. But I'm new and could be wrong. I'm also afraid to retry the batteries because well I've never seen this happen before and don't like hand grenades. I know a mech' mod is a lot of work and that's fine I'm willing to learn but I've never really had this happen before. I had a panzer for a long time and never had this happen.

I'd love help because I seriously miss making clouds. I waited too long to buy a mod again for it to fail on my first night.

 

[Khassy]

Honestly, I'd recommend staying away from using mechs until you have a good bit more experience and knowledge.

 

[BigNasty]

Honestly, I'd recommend staying away from using mechs until you have a good bit more experience and knowledge.

this.
also way nicer than what I was going to say.

 

[mcr*****]

this.
also way nicer than what I was going to say.

Well I'm interested in your thoughts (no matter how factual or blunt). I know im a dumba$$ for taking this on but as a kid who went to school of mines for mechanical engineering and worked for a railroad as a contractor I assumed I could put this together with a little ease lol. the shop owner picked all these parts for it and made it sound so simple - I guess to make a sale.

 

[Rickajho]

Well we're at a disadvantage here since "the Mod itself due to it's a special built mod from a local shop/chain." No idea what you have there.

Does it have an adjustable center pin? God forbid it's a hybrid...

 

[mcr*****]

Well we're at a disadvantage here since "the Mod itself due to it's a special built mod from a local shop/chain." No idea what you have there.

Does it have an adjustable center pin? God forbid it's a hybrid...

To be more specific it's a "Geo 105" and from my research there's only like 300-500 made. I only found one person online who also has one and didn't know anything about it. Made by Favorever vapes only in Houston tx. Instead of describe it I'll post pics.

 

[Mike H.]

You never mentioned what ohms the coil is and what atty you tried...For a battery to get hot one of two things happened.

1.) You have too low of an ohm for a coil build with the batteries you selected.
2.) You have a short with the coil or something going on with the mech mod.

Those Imren batteries are far from being 40 amps in a constant discharge rating..my guess is maybe the build is too hot for the batteries.

We like to recommend first rate batteries made by Sony, Samsung or LG and which battery based on where this person wants to vape at ohms wise...The best we can get is a true 30 amp battery but at a lower MAh rating unfortunately.


A quality 20 amp battery is recommended for say a .25 or higher build and a true 30 amp battery for below this but maybe no lower than a .14 ohm as this pushes a 30 amp battery to its maximum performance.

If you dont know the ins and outs of using a mech safely then you have a bit of homework to do.

Try using an RDA on a mech mod as its the safest to use on them..alot use tanks but some tanks are NOT intended for use on a mech mod and can cause a serious problem...I personally wouldnt use a SMOK anything on a mech mod unless the tank came with a mech mod as a kit.

 

[Mattp169]

FIRST
DONT USE THAT BATTERY IN THE MECH MOD until it is properly rewrapped.
The broken wrapped is a BIG ISSUE in a mech tube mode
IN FACT just get rid of those batteries unless you have something that can test its TRUE CDR

go to liionwholesale.com
IMR.com
or illum.com and get your self some trusted batteries
sony lg or samsung

as said before 20 amp batteries need coils above about .25
30 amp batteries need above .14 ohms
see imrem is just a rewrap from probably one of the other companies. it may not be top quality and its true CDR may be 10amps
which in that case you dont want a coil below .42 ohms

its all about the amps on a battery to know what is safe and since companies like imren efest trustfire etc put ridiculous numbers that are not really true they cause lots of bad things to happen in a mech mod

 

[BigNasty]

Well I'm interested in your thoughts (no matter how factual or blunt). I know im a dumba$$ for taking this on but as a kid who went to school of mines for mechanical engineering and worked for a railroad as a contractor I assumed I could put this together with a little ease lol. the shop owner picked all these parts for it and made it sound so simple - I guess to make a sale.

The god damnits look ok but I would give the contacts a good cleaning, a touch of dialectic compound on the threads.

Ditch those batteries of fuck and go a better battery route or you are going to handful of fuck and misery.
Go with suggestions above.

When the god damnits get hot it called joule heating and is a sign shit is going to get fucky fast.

So steam engine is your site you are looking for.
Better batteries.
A Ohm meter to check the coils.
Stay within the battery limits and do not trust the wrapper being factual. Safer to assume 20-25 amp on quality batteries unless tested different and vape safe.
The other thing is lack of locking on the firing button gives me pause.
The spring could also be limiting factor not being able to handle the current.