Hot button?

[Bryan92081]

I was rebuilding the wife's tugboat atty last night on her stingray clone and whenever I fired it off to set the coils the button scalded the shit outta me. I've had it shock me a time or two where the tube screws together if it ever gets a little loose, but never had the button get hot like this. It only got hot 1 time, the rest of the time it fired off with no issues. Is this a connection problem that causes hot button? I've searched the forum, but didn't find what I was looking for.

 

[State O' Flux]

Taken it apart and cleaned it lately? It's amazing the amount of crap that can collect in a switch assembly, in just a month or so.

 

[Bryan92081]

Taken it apart and cleaned it lately? It's amazing the amount of crap that can collect in a switch assembly, in just a month or so.

Yes, actually not very long ago at all. I bought this clone from ebay(I didn't know any better at the time) and the button is complete shit on this thing. I've spent a considerable amount of time polishing the inner workings of it so it doesn't stick every time it's fired. I think i finally got the sticky button problem taken care of. I'll tear it down and check it out though for sure. One things for sure, I never realized the switch could heat up as quick as a coil!

 

[Zamazam]

Check the atty for a short on an ohm meter. A really hot switch indicates a dead short somewhere either in the mod, switch or atty.

 

[Bryan92081]

Check the atty for a short on an ohm meter. A really hot switch indicates a dead short somewhere either in the mod, switch or atty.

I rechecked everything in the atty with my meter(cap on and off), and re-tightened all the post screws again and couldn't seem to find a problem. Whatever it was seems to have corrected itself for now. I'm gonna take the switch apart and see if there is something obvious going on in there. With all the work I've had to do to the switch already it seems like it would be the best place to start.

 

[Zamazam]

I rechecked everything in the atty with my meter(cap on and off), and re-tightened all the post screws again and couldn't seem to find a problem. Whatever it was seems to have corrected itself for now. I'm gonna take the switch apart and see if there is something obvious going on in there. With all the work I've had to do to the switch already it seems like it would be the best place to start.

The first place i'd look would be the insulator...

 

[State O' Flux]

One things for sure, I never realized the switch could heat up as quick as a coil!

Resistive (Joule) heating is not particularly discriminatory as to where it occurs... only that a resistance to the conductive load be present. The greater the load, the more likely we are to identify a conductive failing.

For consideration rather than to add fuel to an already nicely burning fire...
This sort of fairly common complaint ("The button is complete shit on this thing.") makes a valid case for the closer tolerance & higher quality fit and finish associated with authentic vs. clone.
Yes, there are excellent clones and sketchy authentics out there... but in general, authentic mods - particularly those that are "proof tested" to perform well - have fewer issues with low resistance.

 

[Bryan92081]

The first place i'd look would be the insulator...

Well, after thorough inspection, I can't seem to find anything wrong. I'm at a complete loss as to what the problem is. I think maybe I need to find the wife a more "authentic" clone. My "great' ebay find(40 bucks) for a mod, atty, (genuine sony vct5, yeah right!) battery, and charger, just might be the kind of deal that gives clones a bad name. Don't worry though, I did have enough sense to purchase her a set of imren 18650's. I also already had a good charger.

 

[Bryan92081]

Resistive (Joule) heating is not particularly discriminatory as to where it occurs... only that a resistance to the conductive load be present. The greater the load, the more likely we are to identify a conductive failing.

For consideration rather than to add fuel to an already nicely burning fire...
This sort of fairly common complaint ("The button is complete shit on this thing.") makes a valid case for the closer tolerance & higher quality fit and finish associated with authentic vs. clone.
Yes, there are excellent clones and sketchy authentics out there... but in general, authentic mods - particularly those that are "proof tested" to perform well - have fewer issues with low resistance.

I'll agree with that statement for sure. I've got an authentic flagship mod and the quality is outstanding. No complaints at all. In the event I buy another clone I'll definitely look up every review I can find and buy from a more reputable source. I didn't expect The Ebay Special to be as good in quality as an authentic, but I also wasn't expecting it to be put together in a dark room by a blind orangutan either, of course that's before I new anything at all about vaping. There's clones and then there's clones I guess.

 

[MKPM]

Fully tear down the atty and verify there is no crack in the 510 insulator. This is a common issue and one that can SEEMINGLY self repair when adjusting the centre post.

 

[Bryan92081]

Fully tear down the atty and verify there is no crack in the 510 insulator. This is a common issue and one that can SEEMINGLY self repair when adjusting the centre post.

I'll do that. I didn't dig that deep into the atty. Sounds like solid advice though, thanks!

 

[ConcreteBob]

I had the same issue with my Stainless Cartel Clone. The contact area between the button and the body of the switch assy. was too small, causing it to heat up like crazy. I cleaned it, polished it, no good. Ended up giving it away.