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floresroach

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I'm running an Apire Atlantis on a king V2 Mod, it use to not get warm at all when I first started using it, now it gets kinda warm almost hot when I vape it. Using AWT 18650 batteries 3.7 volts. Also using a doge V1 with double parallel coils and that SOB get's pretty hot. I'm wondering if that's normal and if I should lay off it a bit, I'm concerned about battery fatigue. I also ordered some SONG VTC4's and I'm wondering if that might make a difference.


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OB61887

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The AWT 18650 IMRs can go between 30 and 35 for pulse and should be fine on the atlantis. What resistance do you read on the doge V1?
 

MKPM

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Fully tear down the top cap of the mod and verify that there are NO splits in the insulator in the 510 connection...do the same with the insulator in the bottom cap where the button protrudes through the insulator. This will uncover the gremlin. I am ruling out the 510 insulator on the atty as the problem seems to exist from atty to atty.
 

floresroach

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The doge is running 1.4 resistance in a double parallel coil setup.


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floresroach

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Fully tear down the top cap of the mod and verify that there are NO splits in the insulator in the 510 connection...do the same with the insulator in the bottom cap where the button protrudes through the insulator. This will uncover the gremlin. I am ruling out the 510 insulator on the atty as the problem seems to exist from atty to atty.[/The doge is running 1.4 resistance in a double parallel coil setup.



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floresroach

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I'm sorry .14*


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OB61887

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That is pushing out 30 amps assuming no voltage drop. Your battery is rated for that for pulses, but I do not know that there is a standard for how long a pulse is. Like @franciscan said, check for shorts (bad insulator near 510 pin or button) as well as the battery casing. And pay attention to the battery. If you don't find a short, I would rebuild a higher resistance if your mod still heats up.
 

floresroach

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What resistance would you suggest? Because there seem to be no cracks in the insulation on the top cap or on the attie, the bottom cap seems to not have insulation, but that's how the mod came out of the box
af0b2307506ab036878d01f6b1350cdd.jpg
4857d39456d34b3f39e3faa6f682bd7d.jpg



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OB61887

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Lol, I'm dumb. Been a while since I meched. Buttons don't have one which is why they work. Check out www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp. Use a voltage of 4.2 since that is what your battery fully charged puts out. I would try to stay 25 amps or below which is .17 resistance or higher. I try to stay at .2 or higher with single batteries.
 

floresroach

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Lol, I'm dumb. Been a while since I meched. Buttons don't have one which is why they work. Check out www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp. Use a voltage of 4.2 since that is what your battery fully charged puts out. I would try to stay 25 amps or below which is .17 resistance or higher. I try to stay at .2 or higher with single batteries.


Thanks!!! I'll definitely try that.


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madmonkey

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I'm not looking/testing/using your battery so I can't speak to how tired it is, but some general food for thought on battery health in general

You have to remember too that just because a battery is "pulse rated" for "XX" amount of amps doesn't mean it's good to push the pulse limit constantly....different batteries don't just have different pulse rates, but different lengths of time the battery can be "pulsed" at and how long the battery needs to rest between pulses. A battery needs to rest between pulse discharges to cool down if it gets hot and to stabilize as over discharging it unbalances it. It can also lead to an increase in internal resistance which causes the battery to loose storage capacity, and have slower/lower discharge rate. It's not commonly brought up but a big part of the "voltage drop" of a mech mod setup is a direct result of the internal resistance of the battery itself and not just the mod. The more you stress your battery the more likely you are to cause an increase in internal resistance and the more poorly in turn it will preform while working that much harder to keep up.

Don't get me wrong, I am not saying all of this will happen for sure if you use a battery above it's continuous rating, I am just saying what can occur. Battery ratings are set with a safety margin in mind and that is why we have the continuous and pulse ratings in the first place. Just sharing some general battery knowledge.

But the full set of numbers for most batteries pulse rates are rarely clearly published because you're pushing a battery beyond it's "safe" (continuous discharge rating) zone and battery companies don't want to be liable by saying "you can pulse this battery like this for this long" and then have a battery fail inside that time amount and getting sued for damages.
 

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