I build - and have a question

[VapeLikeALady]

I realize that every build isn't going to work for every atomizer. Also that you can't build lower than your battery can handle. I relatively understand Ohm's law but I don't understand what the resistance is going to do to my vape experience.

When I started building, I had a Tugboat V2 and Sigelei 150w which goes down to 0.1 Ohms. My builds have always been in this range using 24g Kanthal (sometimes 26) 6 wraps dual coils. I know that you can achieve different results with nichrome (which I have played with) and get different results (ramp up, heat, cool down, etc)

My question is - what is the difference if I build at 0.5 vs. 0.1? My vape shop had me under the impression that the lower the better, but after seeing a lot of posting on here, IG, etc I'm beginning to think that lower isn't always better. Does a higher number affect flavor and cloud? I like a warmer vape but mostly I'm chasing flavor. I don't really do comps yet so clouds aren't a huge factor. On my 150w, I normally vape around 70-90W with my lower ohm build and my Tugboat. I also have the 50W I stick that I keep a Delta 2 tank on. I have a Derringer as well that I have only been able to use on my 150W because of the build.

Sorry for all the rambling - I just don't know WHY I would chose to build at a specific resistance over another, aside from battery life, safety, and the limits of your gear.

 

[Browncoat]

Watch this:

 

[VapeLikeALady]

Ok so basically it doesn't have much to do with clouds and flavor? Since I use the regulated box and not a mech? I guess I would be more asking about the functionality of the build. I like the warmer vape which is why I don't have any issues with my current coils. I just was led to believe that the lower the better, but that isn't necessarily true. It would all depend on warm/cool vape preference (safety aside - I am not going to build anything that my batteries can't handle. I'm kind of a stickler when it comes to that) but I wouldn't build a 0.7 coil because I wanted more flavor?

 

[BoomStick]

When you have the ability to adjust both power variables (voltage and resistance) the resistance isn't as important. Wire thickness, coil diameter and coil length are more important. Get the coil geometry you prefer sorted out and then apply whatever power you want to it. There are still limits that apply, but with a power supply that fires down to .1 and has a power limit of 150w your limits are real far apart. In a mech, resistance determines power as the voltage is fixed. In a device that adjusts voltage, resistance along with the applied voltage determine the power level. Having adjustable voltage allows you to increase the ohms, then increase the volts and still get the same watts. I hope that makes sense.

 

[VapeLikeALady]

Yes. Thank you both!! Looks like I need to get some wire and get to work, lol.


Girl Meets Glitter

 

[Browncoat]

It's all a balancing act. When you throw a vw/vv device into the mix, the amount of variables can be a bit overwhelming at first when trying to dial in your vaping experience.

If you like flavor, then stick with single coil builds and thicker wire (20/22/24). The Tugboat is a great flavor chasing RDA, so you're golden there. I have a Tugboat also, and my favorite coil is just a simple 22 gauge @ 3mm and 6 wraps, which is in the 0.3-0.35 ohm range. It's a warm vape and is great for hitting hidden notes in e-liquids that you can't get with a cooler vape.

 

[BigNasty]

one thing most chuckleheads at those shops that push lower is better are forgetting... dead shorts = battery badness. Darwin is a cruel master and shit happens lightning fast the more to tap dance around tard ohm levels.
I personally fucking hate those douche dicks that tout this since they do not know a fucking thing.
I did a single coil in a Baal clone at .40 that rivals some of my dual set ups in production.

 

[Zamazam]

The reason low ohm builds came into play is because in the near past there were no high wattage regulated devices capable of pushing enough power to produce lots of clouds with RDA. I use a .3 and .5 build on my Freakshow and Steamboat v2 respectively on both a 100W and a 200W OKR box I have, they both produce prodigious clouds. The benefit of using a higher ohm coil is that it requires less amps from the battery. My simple rule is not to go over 90% of the battery's rated amp limit when I use my mechs. I use 3mm id coils because I can put a bit more cotton in them to keep them wet. There is a balancing act between massive clouds and flavor. If you like a warmer vape, try a .5ohm coil, but push it at 90 watts (or less). The key is to vaporize your ejuice, not fry it. As far as Ohms law goes, use an online calculator to figure out your amp draw, volts, resistance, et cetera. With regulated devices, you have built in safeties. With mechs, your only safety is your brain...

 

[Dan DePippo]

I myself like to use .4 coils since I'm using a ipv mini 70w mod. I find that at .4 I can vape at 30w and get a much longer battery life then .2 at 50 or 60w plus I feel there is more flavor to me. As for your derringer grab some 28 wire wrap 5 coils around a 2.5 mm or 1 of those lil blue screwdrivers dual coils you should get .4 and work great on iStick.

 

[Neunerball]

For more information on the coils you plan on building, refer to the following link. In the bottom left corner, click on "how it works". It'll give you more information on things like heat flux and heat capacity, which is important for how the coil will vape, especially in regards to warmth.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

 

[VapeLikeALady]

Thanks y'all. I figured that was the case with the lower ohm because most people up there take their word for it and don't do much research. I'm looking into getting a mech soon so I will have to pay attention to the limits.

The one guy that works there that I deal with on anything in depth related is really good. He's constantly preaching safety and not going over limits. IMHO some of the guys (I'm really the only girl that builds) are just trying to show who's dick is bigger with their low builds. Probably going to end up blowing it off! There has been more than one occasion where the employee had to run a device outside before it exploded due to some asshat not paying attention

 

[Panther1911]

One advantage of having a high wattage mod like a sig150, is that you can build a coil to suit your needs and tweek how it performs by changing the wattage.

 

[BoomStick]

One advantage of having a high wattage mod like a sig150, is that you can build a coil to suit your needs and tweek how it performs by changing the wattage.

Absolutely. Having the ability to adjust both power variables allows you to do things that are literally impossible with a fixed voltage mech. I still love my metal tube though. Having something like a Sig 150 and a nice mech is an ideal combo in my opinion. Best of both worlds.

 

[Neunerball]

Absolutely. Having the ability to adjust both power variables allows you to do things that are literally impossible with a fixed voltage mech. I still love my metal tube though. Having something like a Sig 150 and a nice mech is an ideal combo in my opinion. Best of both worlds.

Many of both "bester".

 

[Panther1911]

Absolutely. Having the ability to adjust both power variables allows you to do things that are literally impossible with a fixed voltage mech. I still love my metal tube though. Having something like a Sig 150 and a nice mech is an ideal combo in my opinion. Best of both worlds.

agreed!

 

[Number3124]

Sub-ohming is something more important to those of us (such as myself) who use mech mods. We can't control the wattage of our coils so we have to control it with out coils. Our voltage is fixed to about 3.7v nominal (IE, this is the average we're going to get. At full charge it will be 4.2v, and at the end around 3.6 or 3.5 depending on when you like to change batteries.) With a regulated device, suddenly you can tell it you want ***W. It will read your build and send it the volts to make it happen.