I read about explosions and it has me scared to use my vape?

[Corrrupt__]

I picked up a vapor flask stout , stentorian steam engine from a shop the other day. Also picked up 2 batteries (2500 mah 3.7v) and a charger for them (was told it's better to charge them external)

I'm still pretty new to this but Im using the Clapton coil for my mod it's recommended to run 30-50 watts and I Run it at 45. Is there any reason to by the vape shows 5.77v if battery is only a 3.7v? Sorry if this is a nooby question but I am terrified of these exposition stories I've been hearing

 

[Whiskey]

No need to be scared, just read up about battery and coil safety before using it and you should be fine, plenty of threads here to get the know how, and ask questions , our members can help you out with all the things you need to know.
Welcome to VU

 

[Corrrupt__]

I read up on the battery safety so far but is it ok for vape to be pulling 5.7v if the battery is only rated 3.7v?

 

[UncleRJ]

The device you purchased is a regulated device with plenty of built in protections to keep it from exploding.

And the internal circuits will "Boost" the output wattage past the 3.7v rating of the battery to provide the power you need safely.

 

[RatRacer]

I picked up a vapor flask stout , stentorian steam engine from a shop the other day. Also picked up 2 batteries (2500 mah 3.7v) and a charger for them (was told it's better to charge them external)

I'm still pretty new to this but Im using the Clapton coil for my mod it's recommended to run 30-50 watts and I Run it at 45. Is there any reason to by the vape shows 5.77v it battery is only a 3.7? Sorry if this is a nooby question but I am terrified of these exposition stories I've been hearing

Welcome to VU
Most of what you read involves mechanical mods, meaning no electronic parts used, and using too low ohm or developing a short that overtaxes the battery. The mods you are using have built in safe gaurds that prevent the overtaxing. They also have little transformers that boost voltage over the native voltage, but also help regulate it, for safety.

 

[Corrrupt__]

Thank you for the answers . Eased my mind a lot! I just felt a little uneasy when I saw the battery was 3.7v but vape was pulling 5.7. Also it I lower the watts do I lose flavor? I noticed I can't taste as much at 30w as I do at 45.

 

[Whiskey]

Here is a great area for the reading
http://vapingunderground.com/forums/flavor-chasers-corner.555/

 

[f1r3b1rd]

The power settings with the coils are suggestions not requirements.
You'll find that you will figure out your own "sweet spot" and that will change as you progress through vaping.

If you like it at X setting and dont want a cigarette; than, enjoy the vape.

Provided it's safe and enjoyable than there is no wrong way to do it.

 

[UncleRJ]

You will also find that different E-Liquids will taste better at different power settings so experiment!

 

[BigNasty]

Putting batteries in pocket without a case.. then you are going to want to worry about getting a crotch full of flashing booming batteries.
Outside of dumb ass battery abuse you should be good.

 

[nightshard]

Don't be scared from mods exploding, be scared of batteries exploding.
Saying 2500 mAh 3.7V is not enough, you need to know who is the manufacturer of the batteries, what's the model, what's the battery amp rating and if they are authentic and then you can have some peace of mind.

 

[HondaDavidson]

The device you purchased is a regulated device with plenty of built in protections to keep it from exploding.

And the internal circuits will "Boost" the output wattage past the 3.7v rating of the battery to provide the power you need safely.

This is ONLY true if you assume the battery is rated for the draw the REGULATED device will apply to the battery. the devices safety features are there to protect the MOD, NOT the user or the battery. What I'm saying if you put a under rated battery into a regulated pulling more amps then the battery can supply. The only real difference between a mech and a regulated mod. Is the difference between an analog triggered bomb and a digital one. They both have the potential of battery venting issues.

 

[BigNasty]

If the batteries are not Sony, samsung or LG.. you should be scared.

 

[outwest]

I read up on the battery safety so far but is it ok for vape to be pulling 5.7v if the battery is only rated 3.7v?

Like others have posted, the 5.7v Vs. battery's 3.7v isn't something to be afraid of. The hardware has clever electronics in it that sorts that all out. The things to be concerned with are:

• Is my battery an authentic name brand, a counterfeit name brand, or a rewrapped factory-second that's sold under a different name?
• What is the battery's TRUE amp limit?
• How many amps can I safely draw from these batteries and how many amps am I about to draw from 'em with this fancy new coil I've built?
• Using an ohm meter to check the RDA/RTA before putting it on the mod.
• Knowing to ALWAYS keep battery in plastic bag or box when not in the device. A common error is to slip a spare battery or two in one's pocket, along with keys and change (or toss somewhere in the car, right along with spare change). The battery gets shorted out (connection made between the two ends) and KABOOM.
• Knowing to not leave batteries sitting in the car in the summer heat.
• Knowing that when the ends of the battery wrap get messed up (the plastic will start to get holes and tears) you need to put a new plastic wrap on it before a shorting accident happens (can even happen when inserting the battery into the device if there's tears, splits, etc) Lots of places to buy new battery wraps. Fasttech.com sells em, along with lots of other places. Just search for 18650 battery wrap. You use heat gun to heat and shrink.

 

[RatRacer]

This is ONLY true if you assume the battery is rated for the draw the REGULATED device will apply to the battery. the devices safety features are there to protect the MOD, NOT the user or the battery. What I'm saying if you put a under rated battery into a regulated pulling more amps then the battery can supply. The only real difference between a mech and a regulated mod. Is the difference between an analog triggered bomb and a digital one. They both have the potential of battery venting issues.

While I'll agree to that somewhat, this is also why most regulated devices typically have a timed button press cutoff feature, and temperature thermal overload cutoff.

 

[OBDave]

Here's the thing - 3.7v is the nominal voltage, or the range where your battery typically operates - when its charge rate drops much below 3.7, it's time to charge it - fully charged your cell will show at 4.2v.

What matters more is the continuous amp rating - how many amps the battery can consistently deliver. For most vape usage, including yours at 45 watts, a 20 amp battery is going to be good. For some extreme uses (think wattage in the triple digits, coils with a resistance below 0.25 ohm) you're going to want 30 amp cells.

The tricky part is that many fake manufacturers (we call them "rewrappers," because they take someone else's battery and put a wrapper with fake specs on) falsify their ratings - lots of batteries claim to deliver 35 and even 40 amps continuous draw, but in real life there's no such thing as a cell rated higher than 30. For that reason, we recommend only trusted manufacturers (Sony, LG, Samsung) and only specific battery models rated at 20 amps or higher (all these manufacturers make cells rated at 10a or less, which is dangerous). A good battery and good charger (Nitecore intellicharger or digicharger, Efest LUC series, or Xtar) is the most important investment you can make - along with a secure battery case if you're going to be carrying spares around.

 

[BigNasty]

Illum supply, liion wholesale, 101 vapes, rtd vapes.
Above board on battery purchases.

 

[outwest]

So, @Corrrupt__ what batteries did they sell ya?