Before my accident, I was running mine at 120 all day long. 2x28x32 fused Clapton, wrapped in parallel with 2x0.5 twisted ribbon, 3.5 ID. 11 wraps total, 5 on the FC and 6 on the twisted ribbon, to even out the resistance. So that the coil would heat up all at once, rather than having the staged effect. It barely fit enough to get the cap back on. Was literally the perfect vape. I could not imagine any more room for improvement.
Anyway, I had myself a little learning curve with the wicking. I finally figured out what works for me:
I used cotton bacon v2. Ran it through tightly. Almost Scottish roll style. I sized up the needed length on all sides and I cut away 80% of it right flush with the holes on the deck. Left the other 20% intact to run down into the tank. I then cut it at about midway visible on the glass. You would be amazed at how 20% of the wick keeps the other 80% saturated as well. No dry hits, no leaks. Even while it is laying sideways. I don't even have to worry about tilting until the juice depletes below the ends of the wick.
I think that the secret is that by cutting that 4/5 of the wick dead flush with the holes, there is just enough surface tension and material covering the holes to prevent a leak. Yet it still allows a minuscule amount of air in to displace the juice that is being pulled up the wick and vaporized.
Basically it is the same concept with bottom fed RTA tanks, only in reverse. With a bottom fed tank, you want to establish a small vacuum in the tank to prevent leaks. With this top fed tank, you want equal air pressure in order to avoid dry hits. You want air to be able to enter, but prevent juice from coming out.
Wow just realized that I wrote a novel. I hope that it helps...
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Also had a bit of a spitting issue, but that's probably just the build. I have a 3x28K/38N dual alien build in it right now, with PLENTY of room to spare.
