Yes. 90-120 but stay between 100 and 110. Wide open. Yeah I think I should get an rda before squonk, mostly because I can't decide what I want. Also, some of the regulated squonks can fire super low like 0.003 low
The Hohm Tech Hohm Wrecker G2 is a regulated mod that can fire coil builds down to 0.007 ohms, and, the Hohm Slice can actually even fire down to 0.000001 ohm. Neither one of both these mods is a squonk.
All regulated mods these days have built-in "low resistance protection". It means that they refuse to fire the coils if the resistance is below the minimum number that they require in order to be capable to fire the coils, and will display an error status message like "resistance too low" or "atomizer short". Built-in safety protection features can still fail, but regulated devices can't draw so many amps that would be the near-equivalent of letting the batteries be short circuited. The internals of the chip will melt and that's it. (This has also been explained by Mooch, or "Battery Mooch" on YouTube, in one of his videos that I can't remember which.) Either way, the coil build's resistance has zero impact on how many amps a regulated device will draw from the batteries. That's just because amps drawn from the batteries in a regulated mod are NOT drawn by the atomizer directly, but instead are drawn by the buck circuit or buck/boost circuit inside the regulated device, and, that part is controlled by the chip in such a particular way that this number is always calculated, repeatedly at regular time intervals, for the entire duration of the puff. To calculate amps as a function of the desired power (watts) output level, the chip has to monitor
BOTH the resistance of the coils
AND the volts that it gets from the batteries. As a direct result from this, if the resistance falls outside the range that the regulated mod is designed to accept, the chip can not compute, like what also happens when you try to force a pocket calculator to divide by zero.
Now, there are some rumors that a low coil build can explode. But those are rumors, and, the safety of the actual coil build itself─outside of the battery safety that we've already just covered─depends on coil stability and power vs how fast the coil ramps up, at least if we can assume that you're not doing any toxic stuff like preheating a titanium wire to give you toxic layer of titanium oxide or shit like that. Yes, metal wires like Nichrome 80 can still melt, but... with an alien coil or similar build, you still got the outer wrap wire surrounding the core wires so not a lot of current jumps across adjacent wraps touching each other, and not a lot of current jumps across anywhere if you know how to work out all the hot spots by dry firing (gently pulsing at low wattage and strumming them with the tip of ceramic tip tweezers, repeatedly, and pinching somewhat to move wraps closer together) your newly built aliens after you mounted them properly into the fancy (or not so fancy) RDA.
The key basic things to remember aside from thorough visual inspection and measuring the ohms each time before proceeding with the next logical step are to not over-tighten the post screws as to avoid squashing the legs of the coil, ensuring that cuts are clean and nothing touches the deck, that no stray clippings are inside the deck anywhere also including in hiding places like between the side of the deck and the post, re-tightening (again, while not over-tightening...) the post screws after the dry firing is done, realigning the coils with the airflow position, distance, and height─and with the inside of the cap while also re-ensuring nothing will be touching, and finishing up by giving it a nice long glow lasting a couple of secs, but never glow it beyond red-orange (or an awful lot less than that if you're talking SS 316L wire─which is another reason why I stick to using Ni80 wire). Don't brutalize the wire. Don't scratch the wraps, and avoid temperature shock. Don't let the build deck overheat when dry firing/burning. And, most importantly of course, don't be stupid. lol