IPV D2 autofiring/freezing.

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people.

About a week ago, I lined up all my mods to take a photo of them all, and during this, the IPV D2 started firing itself, and did not stop until I pulled the battery.

As it thinks the fire button is being held down, it seems frozen and pressing fire will not stop it until you pull the battery.

I thought it was a one off, and as I have the IPV D3 as well, I let my fiancee use this one as she did not have a device that had a TI mode.

It has been OK-until just now, it done the same thing again. She was sitting next to me, and it started firing, and I/Her could not stop it-she took the atty off, and I pulled the battery.

When I put the battery back in-it started cycling through the menu itself, as if someone was pressing fire. (No, I do not suspect a ghost as some of you may remember from months ago lol).

I pressed the fire button hard-and it stopped.

I have managed to keep using it, and have it locked now in case it autofires itself, but has anyone else had any issues of an autofiring IPV D2?

I don't know wether to keep it, and always lock it so it can not fire, or just get rid in case it is a danger.

I think I may be able to sort it myself, if I take it apart like my old sig 30 that I repaired when It would not fire at full power (wire had become bare inside and the connection was bad, so I replaced the wire inside).

Will be a shame, will be my first mod that has broken, and I really like the D2/D3.

I may try to repair the device as I did my Sig 30 mini when that would not fire at full power, I will give the insides a good clean and check wiring.

It has not flashed on as if trying to fire in the half hour or so I pressed the fire button hard to stop it cycling through the menu itself.

So, what would you do-out it, or just keep it locked when not in use/take the battery out?

Thanks everyone, Conan.

 

[Angrygod50]

Sounds like the fire button stuck on. There easy to open up just 2 screws and the case splits and nothing falls out . Hopefully a bit of cleaning is all it needs

 

[skt239]

I'm going with the supernatural on this one, namely the ghost of poor Chinese QC standards.

Funny that you mention this. I have not used my D2 in quite some time now and decided to take it out during a walk with my daughter this morning. I noticed the the fire button had lost its some of its springiness and felt like it could stick. Glad to hear you and your lady were not hurt.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

I wonder if maybe something spilled on the firing button, e juice , pop (soda to anyone not living in Michigan lol), etc, causing it to stick. I would open it up and give the firing button a cleaning with rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip. If that doesn't fix it, I would definitely not store it with a battery inside it. Good luck!

Cheers,
Steve

 

[conanthewarrior]

Thank you all.

It seems to be a lot of people think it could be very simple, like you do, as I have asked here and POTV's.

I am going to crack it open very soon, as it is 11:30AM here now, and I may well of got juice in there-I know it has been wiped down plenty of times due to juice spillage, so hopefully open it, give the inside a clean, and that is it.

Sounds like the fire button stuck on. There easy to open up just 2 screws and the case splits and nothing falls out . Hopefully a bit of cleaning is all it needs

OK, I guess it is the two hex/allen key screws inside of the casing, under the battery sliding mechanism?

I hope I can get it back working-as if I am honest, the D2/D3 performs exactly the same. The display on the D3 is slightly brighter, and it does have the 150H chip vs 130H, and it DOES have stepdown in power mode-but if someone wanted to buy one, either is good.

You can get around the power mode situation easily by using kanthal in TC mode, to fire under 30W, and the other difference is that the resistance is NOT active on the D3. The D2 shows resistance rising and falling, but this caused a lot of confusion, even for me, is it locked or not, the D3 stays at its locked resistance, no active display,and has a slightly easier to remove battery door.

For most people, I would say the D2 is fine, as it works (well did work lol) well, but the battery door opens like the EVIC VTC Mini on the D3, so if you have problems with your hands, it is much easier to open.

Time to pray to the vaping gods, let them help me revive this little friend .

 

[conanthewarrior]

I'm going with the supernatural on this one, namely the ghost of poor Chinese QC standards.

Funny that you mention this. I have not used my D2 in quite some time now and decided to take it out during a walk with my daughter this morning. I noticed the the fire button had lost its some of its springiness and felt like it could stick. Glad to hear you and your lady were not hurt.

Thank you. I am just glad it happened when I was there, as she did not know what to do.

I HAVE told her what to do if that ever happened, but it was the first time ever for her, she was puzzled what was going on, and I guess she did not realise it could of been dangerous (At the power it was being used at though, the battery was cool still, kind of glad we both vape fairly low wattage lol).

I told her to pull the battery-she took the atty off, so I grabbed it off her and got the case off as fast as possible.

The battery was not even warm-it was a older Blue 25R, she was using it at 28J (Well watts, or watts per second, I just interchange joules for watts and vice versa, as it was non TC, but the workaround to get it to fire lower).

I would say it was firing for around 20 seconds in total, which is odd, as the cut out did not kick in, but due to the cycling menu, I think it may of released itself for a split second, then started again, resetting the timer for auto cut off.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK-I have saved the little bundle of joy .

There WAS juice inside of the device, but this was not causing autofiring-the position of the physical fire button, and the chip, had gone a bit off position, so I cleaned the juice, and buttons, and put the chip back in-ensuring that it was NOT firing and lined up correctly.

I also cleaned up the screen and other internals carefully-and now have a fully functioning D2. This time, no actual repair involved really, just repositioning. I must say, that chip is a BUGGER to get back in once you have slotted it out to get the 3 buttons out. That was the hardest part, but I realised you have to completely slide it out, then slide upwards, and it slots in fairly easily then.

I have included a picture of my naked IPVD2 and its chip for anyone into that sort of thing lol.(we all are I think to be honest-this was also pre-cleaning, I have cleaned everything up including the screen, thought I might as well while it was out).

So, a Sigelei 30 bought back to life with a repair months ago still working, and my D2 working again. Must say I am quite pleased .

 

[joeyboy]

Thanks for this info.