IPV Mini II - constantly jumping Ohm reading???

[BrattVapes]

Hey guys


Having never experiencing this before on my IPV, nor being able to fix it with a battery change/ reset I am posting here.

I have a beautiful spaced 5 wrap 26 gauge n80 single coil in my Mutation x3 atomizer, at first, read .5 ohms for about a day. Today it has been reading anywhere from .6 ohms to 2.3 ohms - sporadically, it jumps with each button depress... That being said it wouldn't be an issue except we all know ohms law, this is causing a HUGE increase in volt output even at the same 25 watts... This is causing huge burning of not only juice but even wick if i don't stop hitting after 1 second.

Is there anyone with the same chip that has experienced this? i know the chips are not like the DNA chips that constantly analyze the resistance but analyze upon firing.. but it jumps so drastically from .6 -> 1.5 -> 2.3 ohms then back down ... it's concerning... I don't feel safe with it.. I have changed batteries, i'm thinking it's chip wise maybe.. maybe however it's due to the spaced coil that is in there as i don't typically run spaced coils. I sincerely hope it's not due to the spacing because i truly enjoy this vape. warm, surface area, gives some good flavor. Dry fires even after being in a day evenly from middle out.... confused guys. Thanks for the help in advance.


Matt

 

[AmandaD]

Sounds like you've got a short somewhere! I don't have any issues in my IPV MIni 2. Did you try a different topper to see if it still jumps?

 

[Zamazam]

Amanda is correct, check it with another atty. If the resistance stays the same the issue is with having the NI200 tightened down enough, or a voltage leak in the positive 510 insulator. Take it apart and look for cracks.

 

[BrattVapes]

Amanda is correct, check it with another atty. If the resistance stays the same the issue is with having the NI200 tightened down enough, or a voltage leak in the positive 510 insulator. Take it apart and look for cracks.

Not using ni200, using n80 kanthal

Doesn't seem to jump with my Doge X2 on top. Will check it out, tear down the mutation see what I can see. No positive insulator on that Atty like my Doge

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

 

[rdsok]

Everytime I've seen the resistance changing... it's been the atty... ie the wires not tighted down good or similar but some other things to check..

... clean the 510 connections on both the atty and the mod...
... any juice that leaks onto the mod, can get down inside it. Open it up and clean it out ( if any exists ) and as Zamazam mentioned, look at the solder joints while you are there.

 

[LuTang]

i was experiencing this a couple of weeks ago (not on a IPV device). turns out my center post on my rda was not tight. make sure all of your leads and center post screw is tight. that would be the first troubleshoot steps i would take.

 

[BrattVapes]

I've rebuilt it same build, made sure all my post holes are good and clean, cleaned the Atty and all, seems to be behaving normally now. Thanks guys, will post tomorrow to confirm

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[cascadian]

I have a beautiful spaced 5 wrap 26 gauge n80 single coil in my Mutation x3 atomizer, at first, read .5 ohms for about a day. Today it has been reading anywhere from .6 ohms to 2.3 ohms - sporadically, it jumps with each button depress...

Not using ni200, using n80 kanthal

Are you using Kanthal or Nichrome 80? It doesn't really make a difference as to fixing your problem but there is no such thing as n80 kanthal.

It is your atty or your build. If you don't have another atomizer to test the device you will need to trouble shoot the issue. You can start by checking your post screws. Make sure that they haven't loosened and are nice and tight. If no change remove the build from your RDA and thoroughly clean everything. Re-install the build and check it again. As the resistance is increasing and not dropping below .5, it is not the insulator. You have dirt or a poor threaded connection somewhere causing the intermittent problem.

 

[BrattVapes]

Seems to be N80 to me I was simply saying its not nickel wire, but kanthal based..

Yes I've fixed the issue. Didn't see any bit of wire or anything in my post holes but a good rinse and cleaning did the job. All is well. Thank you guys. Did think about a short but thought it odd I didn't see any signs like I have before.

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[cascadian]

That is nichrome not kanthal. Still suitable wire but it isn't kanthal.

 

[modbustersecig]

Ipv2 has a problem with ground for the 510 the use a screw to push on the 510 they solder to the head of the screw well it loses a good ground and much like a screw holding a coil in rba make bad coil reading to board seen this a lot ohms jump all over

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[BrattVapes]

Going to give an update here. It does it with both my RDAs and both are clean, no shorts, wire bits anywhere, I'm beginning to think it might be that pin. Going to dismantle her tonight... Any fixes for it? @modbustersecig


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[rdsok]

Going to give an update here. It does it with both my RDAs and both are clean, no shorts, wire bits anywhere, I'm beginning to think it might be that pin. Going to dismantle her tonight... Any fixes for it? @modbustersecig


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The "it" has yet to be determined until after you open it up and actually see what the cause is... until then there are still several possible causes a few of which has already been mentioned along with their possible solutions.


If "it" turns out to be just the previous's posts ground screw that was pictured... cleaning out the threads of any debri, paint or other stuff and then putting it back together should be enough. If "it" is a cold solder joint, cleaning everything and hitting it with a soldering iron and/or possibly adding solder if needed would do the trick. If it's just juice that has leaked into the device, clean out with alcohol and let it dry thoroughly. There are also probably some worse case scenarios, but they are also much less likely and probably not worth the mention at this point.

 

[BrattVapes]

Well we've got it apart... I have my homemade box next to me... But I still don't know what to look for in this one as far as trouble shooting goes - solder connections are solid, the screw isn't a "screw" it won't unscrew. But doesn't look caked with juice.

 

[Maverik_X]

Well we've got it apart... I have my homemade box next to me... But I still don't know what to look for in this one as far as trouble shooting goes - solder connections are solid, the screw isn't a "screw" it won't unscrew. But doesn't look caked with juice.

the screw isn't a screw? you mean the 510 pin? don't try adjusting with a screwdriver if you turn it you will break the connection.

 

[Budds]

Im guessing in modbustersecig's Pic, you see the"Set Pin" that holds the 510 connection is a screw that secures the 510 to the body of the Mod.

In BrattVapes's pic you see the Blk wire soldered to that "Set Pin".
If you were to heat that up to loosen the wire/solder, I think you may find it to be the screw you see in modbustersecig's Pic, its just covered up with the Wire/Solder ?

My take anyways......

 

[BrattVapes]

Hey guys. I've all but given up on my IPV Mini... Going to give Pioneer 4 u a call tomorrow and see about a possible warranty exchange. It is a shame I have to do this. My problem is only getting worse.

I have in my Mutation X3 atty a single 28 gauge KA1 6 wrap clapton build that is reading on my IPV at 1.7 Ohms... it will go down low as 1.5 but that's not right... it should be around 1.1 ohms...

I can't get it to read right.

 

[Maverik_X]

Hey guys. I've all but given up on my IPV Mini... Going to give Pioneer 4 u a call tomorrow and see about a possible warranty exchange. It is a shame I have to do this. My problem is only getting worse.

I have in my Mutation X3 atty a single 28 gauge KA1 6 wrap clapton build that is reading on my IPV at 1.7 Ohms... it will go down low as 1.5 but that's not right... it should be around 1.1 ohms...

I can't get it to read right.

they have 2 service centers in the USA if your stateside contact one of them. the contact info is on p4y website. hope it pans out for ya.