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IPV4 Nickel build help

Kaged_Gryphon

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I recently bought an IPV4 for the purpose of being able to build lower than the .5 limit my God 180 had. Now that I have it I am interested in trying a Nickel build. I know with the DNA boards you have to build spaced nickel builds due to how the board works, but do the Yihi temp control boards work the same or can I build normal coils? Hoping I can build regular coils because I'm trying for a dual coil build for the RBA deck of the Zephyrus tank. All help is greatly appreciated.
 

AmandaD

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Nickel works best with spaced coils, since you can't dry burn it the way you can kanthal (and therefore squeeze the coil together). You'll have to use 30 gauge for dual coils (very thin), and I think many people twist it with kanthal to make it easier to work with. You might be able to dry burn it if it's twisted that way, but I have never done it.
 

Kaged_Gryphon

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The tool I use to build my coils makes perfect contact coils. I rarely have to squeeze them. I made two 16 wrap 2.5mm 22 gauge coils yesterday and they heated up almost perfectly. The 24 gauge coils I just made for my zephyrus heated up fine, all I had to do was along them over the air flow holes. I don't mind trying a spaced build I just think contact coils will be a lot easier on the zephyus deck. When building a spaced coil how do you know how much to space them?
 

AmandaD

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The tool I use to build my coils makes perfect contact coils. I rarely have to squeeze them. I made two 16 wrap 2.5mm 22 gauge coils yesterday and they heated up almost perfectly. The 24 gauge coils I just made for my zephyrus heated up fine, all I had to do was along them over the air flow holes. I don't mind trying a spaced build I just think contact coils will be a lot easier on the zephyus deck. When building a spaced coil how do you know how much to space them?

I have a tool that makes almost perfect contact coils also. But on closer inspection (and performance) they weren't perfect, and I had hot spots/hot legs. I just use that same tool to make contact coils, then pull the coil apart so they are spaced. Actually, I found it even easier to just use a 3mm drill bit tonight and wrap an 'ugly' coil LOL But talk to someone who's made dual coils and they may have a different opinion - so far I've only made single coils, because it's going to be pretty hard to make dual coils to come in at the right resistance (although of course it can be done).

The worst part about nickel is that it's extremely soft and distorts very easily.
 

dre

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30g 10 wrap 2.5mm dia coils spaced fit perfectly on the deck. 50j@460° is where I run it
 

BUDKISS

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I have been twisting nickel and kanthal (or even nichrome) to make some contact coils. It makes the coil easier to work with and less chance of breaking legs in posts. The chip registers to the nickel and seems to ignore the other wire. It does make the temp a little less accurate (but i adjust to taste anyway).
I recently did a nichrome/nickel clapton and it was amazing. Used nichrome on inside and nickel as the outer wrap. Dual coil set up in Aromamizer RDA.
 

Kaged_Gryphon

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Finally got my Tempered 30 gauge NI200 in today. Did a 10 wrap 2.5mm dual coil build that ohmed out to .072 on the Zephyrus and oh my god its perfect. Vapor production is on par with my Turbo v1 RDA, but is much much cooler than the turbo.
 

Kaged_Gryphon

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30g 10 wrap 2.5mm dia coils spaced fit perfectly on the deck. 50j@460° is where I run it

I cant seem to get my Zephyrus deck to wick no matter how little cotton I use. Took your advice on my first nickel build and it works amazing but it doesnt wick. Any ideas?
 

MikeSully

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30g 10 wrap 2.5mm dia coils spaced fit perfectly on the deck. 50j@460° is where I run it
You da man @dre. I was prepared to dump this silly tank until my ipv4 arrived today and I tried this build and these settings out. I think I have a new favorite. Thanks bro!
 

rolltidevaper

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I build with 28g Nickel 200. I've found it easier to work with than Kanthal and the taste is much preferred. I have read several post on here from people that don't space the coil, they just build a Nickel micro coil and say it works fine. haven't tried myself. I just twist on a 2.5 or 3.0 screwdriver and then push it against the screwdriver base and it spaces the coils perfectly. I do find I have to be very careful when wicking since the Nickel is so soft. if you use too much cotton, or force it in the coil it will change the spacing.
 

Maverik_X

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lighting vapes now has tempered nickel in 26g 28g 30g and 32g it makes a world of a difference give it a try wraps like A1.
 
I am using IPV4S and Zephyrus Tank sitting on top. I built 10 wraps 28g Nickel and reading at 0.064ohm. I not able to fire my built more than 350F... Now vaping At 300F 30J... Anyone know how to raise up the temperature without glowing the nickel and not burning my cotton?
 

Angrygod50

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Hard to say without a picture of your build but I'd guess it's a wicking issue. With the same build on a ipv4s I have no problems at any temp and I usually run 30-35J at 450F. Nickel is such a low resistance that any part of the coil that's not wet will glow. I even put a bit around the legs when I'm packing it in. You should also be using spaced coils and tempered nickel is much easier to work with.
 

Neunerball

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I have been twisting nickel and kanthal (or even nichrome) to make some contact coils. It makes the coil easier to work with and less chance of breaking legs in posts. The chip registers to the nickel and seems to ignore the other wire. It does make the temp a little less accurate (but i adjust to taste anyway).
I recently did a nichrome/nickel clapton and it was amazing. Used nichrome on inside and nickel as the outer wrap. Dual coil set up in Aromamizer RDA.
The reason for the chip "ignoring" the other wire is simple, electricity takes the path of least resistance. Here, it's the nickel wire, due to having the least resistance.
 

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