Just want to double check that I'm being safe

[Barkt]

I bought my first Mech Mod yesterday, a SMPL. I've been using and rebuilding it (Along with a few RTAs) for a while now, so I'm familiar with build safety. I own and use an OHM reader, double check my builds before dry burning and after wicking to make sure I haven't messed anything up, etc.

However, I've only been doing this on a VW mod with safety features, so I just want to double check that I'm not forgetting anything and still being safe on my Mech. I'm currently using Efest 2500mah and 3100mah IMR batteries. I'm aware of the problems with their labeling of max Amp outputs, but personally I don't see that being a problem. I prefer to run my dripper at about 17 watts, so at the lowest I'm building maybe a .8 ohm coil, which definitely isn't coming close to the limitations of the battery (Right now I'm actually probably running closer to a 1 ohm build)

So am I overlooking anything? I've been reading about discharging the battery too low and, to my understanding I'd notice a dropoff in performance well before I'd run the risk of the battery getting too low and damaging itself. Generally at this wattage on a VW mod I get about 24 hours, so I'm assuming I'd get about the same from the mech. Is this a safe assumption or should I be checking in some other way?

The other question I have, is I did just pop the battery out of the mech and check the voltage on a multimeter. The battery is listed as an IMR 18650 3.7V. My multimeter read consistently at 3.8 volts. That's not much of a difference, but should the discrepancy be any cause for concern?

 

[OBDave]

1. The biggest safety concern on that SMPL is your atty's contact pin - make sure it's secure and sticks out well past the end of your 510 threading (1-2 mm) - with no 510 pin if the threads contact the battery you've got an instant short.

2. I think you're fine with the 35A (claimed) Efest, but I wouldn't run that 30A (claimed) in a mech, even at super-high resistance. No way, no sir.

3. It's good that you've got a multimeter - you should be checking your batteries fairly regularly (with a 0.8-1.0 coil I'd say every 20 puffs or so), starting with a full charge at 4.2 and then swapping out once they get down to 3.7 - instead of a standard operating level this is more the minimum level you want to operate on a mech. After you've practiced for a few days checking the charge every now and then, you should be able to vape the batteries down by feel, eliminating the need for constant monitoring.

 

[Barkt]

1. The biggest safety concern on that SMPL is your atty's contact pin - make sure it's secure and sticks out well past the end of your 510 threading (1-2 mm) - with no 510 pin if the threads contact the battery you've got an instant short.

2. I think you're fine with the 35A (claimed) Efest, but I wouldn't run that 30A (claimed) in a mech, even at super-high resistance. No way, no sir.

On point one, the guy at the B&M was nice enough to explain to always screw the Atty flush before installing the cap/button, which I believe should take care of accidental shorts

On point two, the batters I have are 2500mah rated at 35A. The 3100mah are actually rated at 20A which I assumed was actual accurate labeling instead of the overrated 2500mah.

 

[OBDave]

I've heard from various sources that the Efest 3100mah are actually rated between 5 and 8 amp continuous...thought they were wrapped claiming 30A, but I could be wrong on that. I do know that without fail, Efest does not wrap a single battery advertising a true continuous draw rating...

 

[BigNasty]

On point one, the guy at the B&M was nice enough to explain to always screw the Atty flush before installing the cap/button, which I believe should take care of accidental shorts

On point two, the batters I have are 2500mah rated at 35A. The 3100mah are actually rated at 20A which I assumed was actual accurate labeling instead of the overrated 2500mah.

no you have 1 20 amp battery and 1 unknown sourced amped battery not worth it to risk.

 

[Barkt]

Jeez, I looked up the amperage on the 3100mah and its terrible. I've never had them show signs of even getting warm, but I'm a little paranoid now.

What would be the brand (and source if you have one handy) for decent 2500mah batteries? Something where I can at least rely on the fact that the stated rating is at least close to being accurate.

 

[OBDave]

I like the Samsung 20A - perform about as well as the Efest 20/35A and they're a couple bucks cheaper. Another crowd favorite is LG...

 

[ConcreteBob]

Your battery showing 3.8V is fine. The maximum voltage on an IMR rechargeable battery is 4.2V. 3.7V is just the battery's nominal voltage spec. They are 4.2V when fully charged, and while it usually doesn't cause a problem if done occasionally, it is recommended that you don't run them down below 3.6V.

 

[BoomStick]

On point one, the guy at the B&M was nice enough to explain to always screw the Atty flush before installing the cap/button, which I believe should take care of accidental shorts

On point two, the batters I have are 2500mah rated at 35A. The 3100mah are actually rated at 20A which I assumed was actual accurate labeling instead of the overrated 2500mah.

You do need to install the atty before the battery and switch, but the point being made is that if the atty's positive pin doesn't protrude far enough past the threads (negative) it will still short. Also, the 3100mah battery is only suitable for use in something like a flashlight. Seems you've realized that. My LG HE2's have worked very well. Nice choice getting a SMPL. I love mine.

 

[ConcreteBob]

I actually killed a battery once because the positive connector was flush with the screw threads. Luckily it didn't vent, but my mod went from cold to scorching hot in about 1 second. Wasted a brand new MXJO because I didn't notice that the positive connector had managed to work itself in tight.

 

[Laughmore]

Recently a redditor shared this story of his exploding mech. Apparently it happened yesterday... this guy dodged a bullet. Lots of pics and damn. There was negligence on his part, but if he hadn't the sense to drop it when he did, he might have been in the headlines. Exploded in mid-air, yikes.

 

[ConcreteBob]

I saw a video yesterday of an istick exploding because it was plugged into a Jellyfish charger, and apparently it was putting out too much of a charging current. At least, that's the explanation I was given. It actually happened in a B&M shop, on a shelf right behind the counter. It was venting and smoking, so instead of unplugging it, the clerk decided to film it instead. Quite a bang. Broke the glass shelf it was on, the glass shelf full of juice above it, and around a dozen bottles of juice. And put a hole in the wall.
And these folks are pros. They're actually a decently well known company with several locations.
Never take chances, and if in doubt, err on the side of caution.

 

[Laughmore]

This thread has less than 100 views, pic thread's 25k

 

[Robert B]

As others have said, just make sure the contact pin sticks out further than the threads on the 510, when the contact pin is screwed in all the way. Don't unscrew the contact pin to make it stick out. If it doesn't stick out when it's screwed in all the way, don't use the atty.

Make sure the shrink wrapping on your batteries is good, and you'll be fine. The smpl is a great mod, I have 7 of them. I also agree with the LG HE2 battery. It's capable of a true 20a continuous discharge.

Here's an example of the type of atty you shouldn't use. This is a vapewell atty. Notice the contact pin is recessed into the 510 connector. If I were to screw that on the smpl, it would short out and vent the battery in a heartbeat.



This one is perfect for the smpl. Pin is screwed in all the way and it still protrudes out.



One last thing, stay away from the sub ohm tanks. Can't speak for all of them, but we've all heard horror stories of the Atlantis tank shorting out on hybrid style mods. Rebuildable tanks like the Orchid, the Billow, and several others, don't have these problems, but should still be treated like any other RDA in respect to the contact pins.

 

[Barkt]

Thank you all for your help so far. I've double checked my attys positive pin, which looks good but was something I never even considered.

Also, I went online first thing this morning and picked up a new pair of Samsung 25r batteries. I've been using the 3100mah efest in my sigelei 30w for a while now and never even had them get warm, but better safe than sorry. They certainly won't touch the SMPL again

Edit: Another question I have is, how do I tell which tanks are OK to use on the SMPL? The guy who sold it to me said I was better off sticking to only RDAs and, to be honest, I don't really have a reason not to use my Sig with my tanks, but I am curious. I currently own a Lemo Drop, a Lemo 2 and an Aqua V2 (Which rarely sees the light of day)

 

[Robert B]

I saw a video yesterday of an istick exploding because it was plugged into a Jellyfish charger, and apparently it was putting out too much of a charging current. At least, that's the explanation I was given. It actually happened in a B&M shop, on a shelf right behind the counter. It was venting and smoking, so instead of unplugging it, the clerk decided to film it instead. Quite a bang. Broke the glass shelf it was on, the glass shelf full of juice above it, and around a dozen bottles of juice. And put a hole in the wall.
And these folks are pros. They're actually a decently well known company with several locations.
Never take chances, and if in doubt, err on the side of caution.

The istick port is a usb which is 5v. The idiots who make the jellyfish decided to make their charging port 7 or 9v, but used a usb cable. Therefore people see the usb cable, not realizing is isn't a true usb, and boom. They should have used one of those round plugs instead.

 

[Robert B]

Thank you all for your help so far. I've double checked my attys positive pin, which looks good but was something I never even considered.

Also, I went online first thing this morning and picked up a new pair of Samsung 25r batteries. I've been using the 3100mah efest in my sigelei 30w for a while now and never even had them get warm, but better safe than sorry. They certainly won't touch the SMPL again

Edit: Another question I have is, how do I tell which tanks are OK to use on the SMPL? The guy who sold it to me said I was better off sticking to only RDAs and, to be honest, I don't really have a reason not to use my Sig with my tanks, but I am curious. I currently own a Lemo Drop, a Lemo 2 and an Aqua V2 (Which rarely sees the light of day)

Keep the contact button on the smpl nice and clean, and you'll have fun with that mod !

 

[ConcreteBob]

The istick port is a usb which is 5v. The idiots who make the jellyfish decided to make their charging port 7 or 9v, but used a usb cable. Therefore people see the usb cable, not realizing is isn't a true usb, and boom. They should have used one of those round plugs instead.

Yep, that'll do it.

 

[Robert B]

Edit: Another question I have is, how do I tell which tanks are OK to use on the SMPL? The guy who sold it to me said I was better off sticking to only RDAs and, to be honest, I don't really have a reason not to use my Sig with my tanks, but I am curious. I currently own a Lemo Drop, a Lemo 2 and an Aqua V2 (Which rarely sees the light of day)

The Orchid and Billow tanks are really just RDA's with a juice holder on top, and are no problem using with the smpl, (as long as the contact pin protrudes out). The Lemo looks a little different with the two part base thingy. Never having used either the Lemo or the Aqua, I'd be a little leary. Probably good advise from your store.

 

[Whiskey]

I saw a video yesterday of an istick exploding because it was plugged into a Jellyfish charger, and apparently it was putting out too much of a charging current. At least, that's the explanation I was given. It actually happened in a B&M shop, on a shelf right behind the counter. It was venting and smoking, so instead of unplugging it, the clerk decided to film it instead. Quite a bang. Broke the glass shelf it was on, the glass shelf full of juice above it, and around a dozen bottles of juice. And put a hole in the wall.
And these folks are pros. They're actually a decently well known company with several locations.
Never take chances, and if in doubt, err on the side of caution.

Isticks should safely be charged on this type of charger, note 5v-1A

 

[ConcreteBob]

Isticks should safely be charged on this type of charger, note 5v-1A

Absolutely correct.

 

[BoomStick]

Good point about the battery wrapper. That's something I always pay attention to with my SMPL, but always forget to mention. The wrapper is the battery/switch insulator so it's gotta be right.

 

[VapeLikeALady]

OK - so let me make sure I understand. I bought the Freakshow Mini yesterday and the center pin is adjustable and still feels solid if I unscrew it a few turns. Been using my Freakshow (regular) with no issues and batteries are good (check those like a crazy person) on my SMPL. But for the safety aspect you just DO NOT want your threading on the bottom of the atty to touch the battery.

Does screwing the atty in (considering its OK to use - and not flush with the threads) FIRST the correct way to avoid a mishap? I always screw mine in first because that is how I was told to...I've only used this RDA (Freakshow Regular)on it so far so please don't think that I'm putting myself in harms way. I just wanted to use other attys on there as well.

So,
1. Screw atty on mod flush and all that goodness
2. Inspect and place battery in Mod
3. Screw on button

Am I missing something?

 

[ConcreteBob]

OK - so let me make sure I understand. I bought the Freakshow Mini yesterday and the center pin is adjustable and still feels solid if I unscrew it a few turns. Been using my Freakshow (regular) with no issues and batteries are good (check those like a crazy person) on my SMPL. But for the safety aspect you just DO NOT want your threading on the bottom of the atty to touch the battery.

Does screwing the atty in (considering its OK to use - and not flush with the threads) FIRST the correct way to avoid a mishap? I always screw mine in first because that is how I was told to...I've only used this RDA (Freakshow Regular)on it so far so please don't think that I'm putting myself in harms way. I just wanted to use other attys on there as well.

So,
1. Screw atty on mod flush and all that goodness
2. Inspect and place battery in Mod
3. Screw on button

Am I missing something?

That's about right. The positive pin of the atty should protrude below the threaded collar that screws into the mod, but be tight in the atty, if adjustable. If the mod has an adjustable screw for the positive contact, you can use an atty with a flush positive connection, just make sure it is snug after the atty has been screwed onto the mod. If you have a hybrid top mod, where the positive connector for the atty touches the battery directly, the positive connector absolutely must protrude below the threaded collar. Preferably by at least a couple of mm. If the battery contacts the threaded collar that screws into the mod, it will short as soon as you press the button, and your day will get worse.
This is just a quick image grab off the web, but note the copper positive pin coming out of the threaded sleeve at the bottom. This is what you want to see on yours, basically.

 

[GrayVaper]

I just got my first mech mod in the mail today. I got a solid copper Panzer clone from RBAVapors.com. It has a floating copper pin and I also bought a tube style volt meter for checking it. The battery I planned on using is the Efest IMR 18650 2100mah 38A.
Will that be safe considering Efest QC?

 

[GrayVaper]

Sorry if I appear to be hijacking. No intention to, just can't see starting an identical thread. This discussion has been informative.

 

[Robert B]

The battery I planned on using is the Efest IMR 18650 2100mah 38A.
Will that be safe considering Efest QC?

efest has no QC since they don't make batteries, they re-wrap other manufacturers batteries with their purple wrap, and mislead about the amperage. The best thing to use is an actual manufacturer's batteries, that way you'll know what your getting.

 

[BoomStick]

So,
1. Screw atty on mod flush and all that goodness
2. Inspect and place battery in Mod
3. Screw on button

That is exactly how you set up a SMPL.

 

[Barkt]

Sorry if I appear to be hijacking. No intention to, just can't see starting an identical thread. This discussion has been informative.

You won't see me getting mad about hijacking. Sometimes good info about using a mech gets so spread out across the forum that its really hard to get a clear picture without digging through 20 different threads. I'm glad to see a bunch of good questions and answers all in one place

As for your Efest batteries, I was in the same place. I own 3 and ended up only really trusting one in my SMPL after searching around and finding user reports on the specs. I ended up picking up 2 Samsung 25R batteries for $20 on the internet. They just came in today and I'm much more confident in their QC

 

[ConcreteBob]

GrayVaper, for my part, and I feel relatively confident to speak for many others here, I have no problem answering the same safety questions 1000 times on different threads, as long as it helps. Yeah, Efest aren't the best batteries. The Samsung batteries are great. LG HE4s are also a good choice. And Sony, or course. Just ask. You aren't hijacking anything as long as it's relevant.