Kanger NEBOX Rebuilding

[JoshuaConroy33]

I'm just trying to get a little better understanding of my builds and settings to use. I am running the Kanger NEBOX and upgraded from the Kanger SUBOX Mini and started rebuilding with the first rig. I have a CoilMaster Kit v2 to build consistent coils and have been building .35ohm coils for quite a few months regularly. Since my upgrade these coils that I build aren't quite as "magical" as they were in the SUBOX Mini...

Since upgrading, there are so many more settings and I'm just not sure bout 1 thing more than the rest:

There is a setting to "Choose your resistance wire, Ni 200, Ti or pure wattage output." When I am using the CoilMaster 24g Kanthal A1 wire to build... which setting should I choose?.? How do I determine Ni200 vs Ti vs Pure Wattage?

 

[fratervapor]

Ni200 is for nickel wire, Ti is for Titanium. Wattage is for the rest.

 

[JoshuaConroy33]

Ni200 is for nickel wire, Ti is for Titanium. Wattage is for the rest.

Would this Kanthal A1 fit into that "all the rest" category?

 

[fratervapor]

Yes, kanthal and nichrome are wattage only. AFAIK there are technical reasons why they can't be temp controlled but someone else will have to chime in on that.

 

[JoshuaConroy33]

Yes, kanthal and nichrome are wattage only. AFAIK there are technical reasons why they can't be temp controlled but someone else will have to chime in on that.

Thanks for the info! That explains why it kept acting like it was hitting max temp and just bein weird. Time to burn up this spool of Kanthal and upgrade. Do you have experience with these and recommend Ni 200 or Ti for my builds?

 

[fratervapor]

I don't have any experience with temp control. I do have a few devices that do it but I don't use use any resistance wire that requires TC.

Mainly my vaping style just doesn't warrant it: I don't have problems with dry hits, I'm not running exotic wire materials, I run rather low wattage, etc. If I did torch some cotton I'd just rewick.


Here are some vids that may help you with wire choice decisions. They are done by Ethan on the VapeSpace YT channel. I can't if he has a chemistry background, engineering, or something else but I respect his approach:

• Titanium
• Nickel
• nichrome and kanthal

We are at the edge of my understanding at this point. Hopefully we'll get some experienced folks in the thread to chip in.

 

[Lost]

One of my wife's setups is:

Nebox with RBA
Titanium, 26 gauge
3mm, 5 wrap, .25 ohm
26W, 180 degrees
12 mg/ml menthol

I went with Ti for her TC units after reading a lot and then getting a separate (strong) suggestion from our vape shop dude. Coils last a good long time. Never tried Ni200.

 

[brummieculture]

Kanthal and Nichrome are wattage only, Titanium and Ni200 is temp sensing, Stainless Steel is temp sensing AND power usable I believe, I haven't used SS yet.
I have built temp sensing coils on my old IPV4s with both Ni200 and Titanium, Nickel is soft and hard to build with, Titanium is much better as you can make micro coils (contact coils) and its stronger than nickel. Nickel coils have to be spaced.
DO NOT DRY FIRE NICKEL OR TITANIUM COILS! You never want to see those boys glow read as this can lead to inhaling toxins.
The reason Kanthal cant be used for temp limiting is something to do with the changing resistance of the coil as it heats up. With temp limitting devices when you install a new coil it asks if it is a new coil, and then locks in the resistance as when fired the resistance jumps around, which is how the chip knows how much power to give to hit desired temp. If it tried with Kanthal I imagine the resistance doesn't move. I am no expert but I have a vague understanding.
Hope this helps. Remember, dont dry fire TC coils if your nickel or titanium coils ever glow red, dont vape on them, put new ones in. The danger is minima but I wouldn't risk it.