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Liitokala Lii-40A 21700

DrVapenstein

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Member For 5 Years
Fasttech sells these 4/$20. Supposedly 40A continuous/4000mah. The definitive source for battery reviews says they check out.

Any of you guys tried these? I'm putting some in my next ft order, but that's likely May delivery with China being locked down. At $5 a pop there'd be no reason to buy any other 21700. Just curious if anyone's used these.
 

DrVapenstein

Bronze Contributor
Member For 5 Years
compared to my old standby LG HG2 18650
81Seuxj.png
 

DrVapenstein

Bronze Contributor
Member For 5 Years
and of course the problem with Samsung is that do you really know if you're getting authentic or rewraps? I've always bought my Samsungs from a battery vendor instead of saving a buck and using eBay, but like Rolex and Panerai wristwatches, the good fakes outnumber the authentics. Safety is more important than saving a dollar.
 

f1r3b1rd

https://cookingwithlegs.com/
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I use milocel and the 30T.
I get a harder hit for a longer period of time out of the 30t, but the molicell lasts longer

Hope that makes sense
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Yep, the Molicel P42A are the actual best for this. Especially since you can buy them from authorized vendors so you know they're authentic.
Best for what exactly? The Samsung 30T is a 35A battery, whereas the Molicel P42A is only a 30A battery so battery safety plays a part, and, if you use a mech and you change cells early then the 30T is the better choice because it hits harder at the start. Even if you don't change cells early it still also depends, because, I actually chain vape (or almost) on a single 30T in a tube mech at .08 ohms so there's the relationship between elevated cell temperatures whilst putting the cell under heavier stress, and faster aging of the cell to also maybe want to consider in addition to battery safety (safety, which is part determined by the aged condition of the cells thus aging is more critically important especially due to it also diminishing cell capacity anyway in the first place), as you're not getting that much additional vaping time out of the P42A with such low resistance coil builds on a mech.

Further, just because you can buy the P42A from authorized vendors, doesn't also mean I can't figure out an easy (yet reliable) way to verify that each one of my 30T cells does indeed heat up noticeably slower than all my other cells including all cells with a CDR of only 30A. The 5A difference in CDR is just a dead giveaway so fakes are super easy to spot if you're an experienced mech user who knows a thing or two about batteries and who is familiar with how fast a battery heats up with a given coil build so, again, it depends. I buy batteries from a trusted vendor so I know that the vendor will always issue a replacement when I bump into fakes, and that the vendor will inform every customer immediately without hesitation as soon as fakes are discovered among cells already sold to customers.
 
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Jon@LiionWholesale

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Best for what exactly? The Samsung 30T is a 35A battery, whereas the Molicel P42A is only a 30A battery so battery safety plays a part, and, if you use a mech and you change cells early then the 30T is the better choice because it hits harder at the start. Even if you don't change cells early it still also depends, because, I actually chain vape (or almost) on a single 30T in a tube mech at .08 ohms so there's the relationship between elevated cell temperatures whilst putting the cell under heavier stress, and faster aging of the cell to also maybe want to consider in addition to battery safety (safety, which is part determined by the aged condition of the cells thus aging is more critically important especially due to it also diminishing cell capacity anyway in the first place), as you're not getting that much additional vaping time out of the P42A with such low resistance coil builds on a mech.

Further, just because you can buy the P42A from authorized vendors, doesn't also mean I can't figure out an easy (yet reliable) way to verify that each one of my 30T cells does indeed heat up noticeably slower than all my other cells including all cells with a CDR of only 30A. The 5A difference in CDR is just a dead giveaway so fakes are super easy to spot if you're an experienced mech user who knows a thing or two about batteries and who is familiar with how fast a battery heats up with a given coil build so, again, it depends. I buy batteries from a trusted vendor so I know that the vendor will always issue a replacement when I bump into fakes, and that the vendor will inform every customer immediately without hesitation as soon as fakes are discovered among cells already sold to customers.

I was saying that if you were considering the Littokaala 4000mAh, that this thread is about, then the P42A will always be a better choice. For most people, the P42A is the best choice of 21700. The 30T is a different category of battery that can be better in very narrow situations like the one you're talking about.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I was saying that if you were considering the Littokaala 4000mAh, that this thread is about, then the P42A will always be a better choice. For most people, the P42A is the best choice of 21700. The 30T is a different category of battery that can be better in very narrow situations like the one you're talking about.
I disagree. For most people, the 30T is the best choice of 21700, as most people barely know squat about battery safety─although I can understand your point.
 

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