Looking for the BEST mech mod

[Kinghen]

I've been browsing for a while and there's so much mechano mods to choose from. Anywhere from 10.00$ to 250.00$ . What's the difference ?! I know clones are cheaper than authentic but what's the true difference between em all ? May you guys list the top best mechs out there

* price does not matter*


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[Robert B]

Are you new to vaping or building coils?

"the true difference between em all" would require a 200 page fine print document. Most every manufacturer has something other than cosmetics that differentiates it from another.

Some mods are geared more towards advanced users that have a solid understanding of batteries, atomizers, and the way electrical current works, other's have some safety features built in, etc...

 

[Maykoll]

I'm really enjoying my Manhattan V2 by Continuous Current. In my personal experience clones have all been bad quality but there are those exceptions out there. If you want a cheap Authentic I started out with a Phantom Mod and a Tugboat V1 Mod. Those are both Hybrids but before you make any decisions make sure to read up on battery safety and make sure your 510 connection pin is protruding from the atty

 

[TF Vaping]

I will always recommend the Dimitri, I absolutely love it. Size is perfect and simplicity is amazing. I have a clone. Paid under 25 bucks for it and its been perfect for me. I don't care much for tube mech mods personally but anyone in the market for a true mech box mod I recommend the Dimitri hands down.

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[smacksy]

I will always recommend the Dimitri, I absolutely love it. Size is perfect and simplicity is amazing. I have a clone. Paid under 25 bucks for it and its been perfect for me. I don't care much for tube mech mods personally but anyone in the market for a true mech box mod I recommend the Dimitri hands down.

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For me mechs are all about the vape, the same for any mod I suppose..but there are cheap mechs and high end mechs that are quite different from each other... I started off with a cheap stainless 18650 Nemesis, but found it had a huge voltage drop, and I didn't like the locking ring..I mean unlock, puff,puff
lock, unlock, puff,puff, lock routine got old quick..and the 18650 batt didn't last long before needing recharged.
That said I got the copper 26650 BFM, magnetic switch, recessed button and hybrid topcap..now this is what I needed!
Almost zero voltage drop made for one of the hardest hitting mechs I've ever had the pleasure to vape..and the bigger 26650 batt goes and goes on a single charge..but as much as I like the BFM it sits on the shelf these days when I got a couple high powered VW box mods.. I still like a mech for what it is, a good back up..

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[Bean8379]

For me mechs are all about the vape, the same for any mod I suppose..but there are cheap mechs and high end mechs that are quite different from each other... I started off with a cheap stainless 18650 Nemesis, but found it had a huge voltage drop, and I didn't like the locking ring..I mean unlock, puff,puff
lock, unlock, puff,puff, lock routine got old quick..and the 18650 batt didn't last long before needing recharged.
That said I got the copper 26650 BFM, magnetic switch, recessed button and hybrid topcap..now this is what I needed!
Almost zero voltage drop made for one of the hardest hitting mechs I've ever had the pleasure to vape..and the bigger 26650 batt goes and goes on a single charge..but as much as I like the BFM it sits on the shelf these days when I got a couple high powered VW box mods.. I still like a mech for what it is, a good back up..

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Wouldn't the voltage drop depend on the atty or possibly the quality of the battery being used, and not the tube itself? Sounds like you're blaming the voltage drop on the mod itself. And the reason I am asking is because I am resurrecting a nemesis I was given. I'm also being given a couple clone rda's and a kayfun lite plus. I don't know what rda's I'm being given. I got an efest 1600mah battery and 100 ft of 26g kanthal to go with it.

 

[vaportester]

I would recomend a unregulated boxmod, like the tuglyfe for sure. Make sure it has mosfets.

 

[efektt]

Yes. Tubes contribute to voltage drop. Thats why these crazy people are always polishing their mods. The dirtier the connections are, the more voltage drop. But the battery is the biggest offender to voltage drop.

 

[manthe]

Wouldn't the voltage drop depend on the atty or possibly the quality of the battery being used, and not the tube itself? Sounds like you're blaming the voltage drop on the mod itself. And the reason I am asking is because I am resurrecting a nemesis I was given. I'm also being given a couple clone rda's and a kayfun lite plus. I don't know what rda's I'm being given. I got an efest 1600mah battery and 100 ft of 26g kanthal to go with it.

While elements of voltage drop (VD) do depend on atomizer, coil build and battery - the mod itself does actually have a HUGE impact on it - very much so! For instance, a tube mech made from all stainless steel with 2 or 3 extensions that thread together, a mediocre switch and stainless steel contacts will have a horrendous VD - especially when compared to an all copper, single piece tube with a well designed switch, solid silver negative contact and hybrid top - we're talking absolute night-and-day difference. There are many variations in between those 2 extremes in design that have varying impacts on VD.

 

[smacksy]

Wouldn't the voltage drop depend on the atty or possibly the quality of the battery being used, and not the tube itself? Sounds like you're blaming the voltage drop on the mod itself. And the reason I am asking is because I am resurrecting a nemesis I was given. I'm also being given a couple clone rda's and a kayfun lite plus. I don't know what rda's I'm being given. I got an efest 1600mah battery and 100 ft of 26g kanthal to go with it.

Voltage drop on a mech is contributed to many things..such as material.. Copper is better than stainless, and a hybrid top cap provides a direct batt contact with the Atty,..put a freshly charged batt in the Nemesis and use an inline voltmeter (without Atty) and check the voltage while pushing the button.. Assuming your batt was full at 4.2v it will read lower, probly 3.9v at best... this is the voltage drop on the mod itself.. The pin in the Nemesis top cap as well as a stainless tube is not as efficient as a hybrid top cap, using a copper tube, copper contacts, copper button and switch housing...voltage drop on this mod is alot less...that means more voltage to your Atty making the XXIX one of the hardest hitting single 18650 mechs I've ever owned, period...shown here with the copper Zenith..

BTW, I gave away my Nemesis as it became suddenly obsolete..
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[manthe]

Voltage drop on a mech is contributed to many things..such as material.. Copper is better than stainless, and a hybrid top cap provides a direct batt contact with the Atty,..put a freshly charged batt in the Nemesis and use an inline voltmeter (without Atty) and check the voltage while pushing the button.. Assuming your batt was full at 4.2v it will read lower, probly 3.9v at best... this is the voltage drop on the mod itself.. The pin in the Nemesis top cap as well as a stainless tube is not as efficient as a hybrid top cap, using a copper tube, copper contacts, copper button and switch housing...voltage drop on this mod is alot less...that means more voltage to your Atty making the XXIX one of the hardest hitting single 18650 mechs I've ever had the pleasure to vape... BTW, I gave my Nemesis away when I got the XXIX... It suddenly became obsolete!... Lol

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I just wanted to point out that there are many different Nemesis variations. I have a (authentic) Naval Brass Nemisis with solid silver pos and neg contacts - definitely one my best performers - VD is negligible on this one!

 

[smacksy]

I just wanted to point out that there are many different Nemesis variations. I have a (authentic) Naval Brass Nemisis with solid silver pos and neg contacts - definitely one my best performers - VD is negligible on this one!

VD drop on your Nemesis is not as low as a mod that uses a hybrid top cap, no mater what its made out of..

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[manthe]

VD drop on your Nemesis is not as low as a mod that uses a hybrid top cap, no mater what its made out of..

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Perhaps not - but the difference is truly negligible. I've tested it against both of my Ritual Machine Zombi mods, my copper SMPL, my brass SMPL and my Stingray X (all hybrids) and the differences were in the mid to low 100ths of a volt! Basically wouldn't be able to physically tell the difference...
(Tested with my digital Fluke multimeter)

 

[smacksy]

Perhaps not - but the difference is truly negligible. I've tested it against both of my Ritual Machine Zombi mods, my copper SMPL, my brass SMPL and my Stingray X (all hybrids) and the differences were in the mid to low 100ths of a volt! Basically wouldn't be able to physically tell the difference...
(Tested with my digital Fluke multimeter)

Another thing I hated with the Nemesis was that stupid locking ring..I mean like unlock...puff, puff,...lock..unlock.. puff, puff..lock...that routine got old real fast...
After getting a couple high powered box mods I don't use my mechs much anymore.. I keep them around for backup...just in case, lol

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[manthe]

Another thing I hated with the Nemesis was that stupid locking ring..I mean like unlock...puff, puff,...lock..unlock.. puff, puff..lock...that routine got old real fast...
After getting a couple high powered box mods I don't use my mechs much anymore.. I keep them around for backup...just in case, lol

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I DEF agree about the lock ring design! It is a pain! I still love my tube mechs - prob always will. And I do use them every day - but if I'm honest - the ease and convenience (and greater battery life!) of my mechanical and regulated boxes has me reaching for them more and more! The 'collector' in me will always love and keep a certain number of my favorite and/or 'rare' tube mechs - but the vaper in me keeps buying and using boxes ;-)

 

[Bean8379]

My nemesis is stainless. I'm not planning on subohming. How bad vd (haha, vd is short for something else too, venereal disease lmfao yes I'm a bit juvenile deal with it lol) am I likely to experience at 1 ohm?

 

[smacksy]

My nemesis is stainless. I'm not planning on subohming. How bad vd (haha, vd is short for something else too, venereal disease lmfao yes I'm a bit juvenile deal with it lol) am I likely to experience at 1 ohm?

1.0 ohm is kinda high for a mech...my builds usually ran .25.-.3 ohms max..
I gave my screwed together stainless tubed, high voltage drop Nemesis away a long time ago..so I can only suggest try your 1.0 ohm build and see for yourself... Deal with that, lol


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[Bean8379]

Yeah, I'm starting off real slow. Idk, might go for like .8 or something. Trying to keep the amps low. The higher the amps, the faster the battery drains.

 

[Bean8379]

So the nemesis has a removable ring around the 510 connection. I took mine off and don't plan on putting it back in due to aesthetics. Will it have any positive effect on vd?

 

[Bean8379]

Well, there is very little voltage drop in the tube (does 0.1v even count?). Charged my battery and popped it in. No rda attached. Fired it. Took my dmm and put the negative lead against the side of the tube. Put the positive lead on the firing pin. 4.1v.

 

[Bean8379]

I decided to test my tube again. The first time I tested it, I had my dmm on DCV 200, which only shows tenths of a volt. I also did not test my battery before firing it the first time. This time I did. I also switched my dmm to DCV 20, which reads hundredths of a volt. The battery read 4.18v before I popped it in. So I popped it in, fired it, and I tested by putting the negative at two different spots on the tube, first closer to the firing pin and then closer to the button. Both times it read 4.18v. So if there is any voltage drop, it will be between the tube and the atomizer, which based on my test I believe was the problem with yours as well @smacksy.

 

[Bean8379]

Or maybe you had a clone. Ive been reading that voltage drop is worse in nemesis clones. The one I have is authentic.

 

[PaulS]

I have four mech mods. All are authentic. Now my hybriud mod - a REM SMPL will hit up like a mofo when i use low builds on my coils. It hits hard but meh. I prefer using my Stingray with a 510 connector (it is also safer) and IO happen to like a locking ring. I don't want to put stuff in my pockets without a lock.

My box mods are both Phillipino authentic - a Munequitas and an Adamantium X. If you feel like spending over 200 dollars they both hit like beasts. I recently got gifted an Incubus clone. It is my first clone. Guess what. It hits like a beast. It is a fraction of the cost. I also know a guy with a Stinray x clone and honestly it is not that different from my authentic.

Now I think the atty makes the mech. Do a decent build on a decent atty and you will get a great vape. Here is where I would spend my money today. I just picked up a new APO and am really enjoying the heck out of it.

But the bottom line for me anyway - mech mods are work. They need constant maintenance and attention - cleaning, new coil builds, rewicking, etc. I know I get as good or better a vape out of a regulated mod with a tank or addy attached (assuming a good regulated mod like Sigelei or SnowWolf).

So okay - I will list the mech mods - tube - that I like best ... Cartel, SMPL, Stingray - all very nice. There are a slew of other good ones.
Box Mods - Osmium, Dimitri, Castigator - again there are lots of others.
Addies - APO, Doge V2, !3th Heavens, CLT are among my favorites. Again lots of other good ones. With addies I find the clones simply do not seem as well built. Just my two cents though.

Whatever you choose in the end - enjoy.

 

[efektt]

I decided to test my tube again. The first time I tested it, I had my dmm on DCV 200, which only shows tenths of a volt. I also did not test my battery before firing it the first time. This time I did. I also switched my dmm to DCV 20, which reads hundredths of a volt. The battery read 4.18v before I popped it in. So I popped it in, fired it, and I tested by putting the negative at two different spots on the tube, first closer to the firing pin and then closer to the button. Both times it read 4.18v. So if there is any voltage drop, it will be between the tube and the atomizer, which based on my test I believe was the problem with yours as well @smacksy.

Its the voltage drop under load that matters. What you did means nothing.

 

[Kinghen]

I have four mech mods. All are authentic. Now my hybriud mod - a REM SMPL will hit up like a mofo when i use low builds on my coils. It hits hard but meh. I prefer using my Stingray with a 510 connector (it is also safer) and IO happen to like a locking ring. I don't want to put stuff in my pockets without a lock.

My box mods are both Phillipino authentic - a Munequitas and an Adamantium X. If you feel like spending over 200 dollars they both hit like beasts. I recently got gifted an Incubus clone. It is my first clone. Guess what. It hits like a beast. It is a fraction of the cost. I also know a guy with a Stinray x clone and honestly it is not that different from my authentic.

Now I think the atty makes the mech. Do a decent build on a decent atty and you will get a great vape. Here is where I would spend my money today. I just picked up a new APO and am really enjoying the heck out of it.

But the bottom line for me anyway - mech mods are work. They need constant maintenance and attention - cleaning, new coil builds, rewicking, etc. I know I get as good or better a vape out of a regulated mod with a tank or addy attached (assuming a good regulated mod like Sigelei or SnowWolf).

So okay - I will list the mech mods - tube - that I like best ... Cartel, SMPL, Stingray - all very nice. There are a slew of other good ones.
Box Mods - Osmium, Dimitri, Castigator - again there are lots of others.
Addies - APO, Doge V2, !3th Heavens, CLT are among my favorites. Again lots of other good ones. With addies I find the clones simply do not seem as well built. Just my two cents though.

Whatever you choose in the end - enjoy.

Thanks for your input a very well described post! I'm looking into them now I'll let you know what I decide on and

Preferably no clones only straight up authentication



Vape life

 

[OBDave]

Okay, there's been some great advice in here for advanced mech users, but does a complete noob need to worry that much about voltage drop, hybrid top caps, and 0.2 resistance coils?

I think a Nemmy with coils in the 1.0 resistance range is a GREAT place to start, especially with an Efest battery of unknown quality...let a guy get the hang of that before telling him he has to build super sub ohm and get a hybrid mod without even talking about why hybrids are extremely dangerous in the wrong hands. ..

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

 

[Saddletramp1200]

I have four mech mods. All are authentic. Now my hybriud mod - a REM SMPL will hit up like a mofo when i use low builds on my coils. It hits hard but meh. I prefer using my Stingray with a 510 connector (it is also safer) and IO happen to like a locking ring. I don't want to put stuff in my pockets without a lock.

My box mods are both Phillipino authentic - a Munequitas and an Adamantium X. If you feel like spending over 200 dollars they both hit like beasts. I recently got gifted an Incubus clone. It is my first clone. Guess what. It hits like a beast. It is a fraction of the cost. I also know a guy with a Stinray x clone and honestly it is not that different from my authentic.

Now I think the atty makes the mech. Do a decent build on a decent atty and you will get a great vape. Here is where I would spend my money today. I just picked up a new APO and am really enjoying the heck out of it.

But the bottom line for me anyway - mech mods are work. They need constant maintenance and attention - cleaning, new coil builds, rewicking, etc. I know I get as good or better a vape out of a regulated mod with a tank or addy attached (assuming a good regulated mod like Sigelei or SnowWolf).

So okay - I will list the mech mods - tube - that I like best ... Cartel, SMPL, Stingray - all very nice. There are a slew of other good ones.
Box Mods - Osmium, Dimitri, Castigator - again there are lots of others.
Addies - APO, Doge V2, !3th Heavens, CLT are among my favorites. Again lots of other good ones. With addies I find the clones simply do not seem as well built. Just my two cents though.

Whatever you choose in the end - enjoy.

I have several tube Mods. The Stingray 26650 copper Mod is my favorite without a doubt. I believe it is a work of art.
Never a problem with it. It don't care if it has a dripper or a sub tank on it, it works. It's so pretty I feel a need to wash my hands before I pick it up.

 

[Bean8379]

Its the voltage drop under load that matters. What you did means nothing.

Smacksy recommended I test without an atty on to see what the voltage drop in the tube itself is. So I did, and there is no voltage drop in my tube.

 

[Saddletramp1200]

An open circuit is like a brick. It's there but it don't do anything. Voltage drop requires a load.

 

[Bean8379]

Okay, there's been some great advice in here for advanced mech users, but does a complete noob need to worry that much about voltage drop, hybrid top caps, and 0.2 resistance coils?

I think a Nemmy with coils in the 1.0 resistance range is a GREAT place to start, especially with an Efest battery of unknown quality...let a guy get the hang of that before telling him he has to build super sub ohm and get a hybrid mod without even talking about why hybrids are extremely dangerous in the wrong hands. ..

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

There has been testing done on the efest battery. The only major issue is the amp rating. It's rated at 30 amps, but it fell off around 20 during testing. But since I'm not planning on pulling anywhere near 20A with this thing, not a problem for me.

 

[smacksy]

I decided to test my tube again. The first time I tested it, I had my dmm on DCV 200, which only shows tenths of a volt. I also did not test my battery before firing it the first time. This time I did. I also switched my dmm to DCV 20, which reads hundredths of a volt. The battery read 4.18v before I popped it in. So I popped it in, fired it, and I tested by putting the negative at two different spots on the tube, first closer to the firing pin and then closer to the button. Both times it read 4.18v. So if there is any voltage drop, it will be between the tube and the atomizer, which based on my test I believe was the problem with yours as well @smacksy.

I don't know how you guys are testing voltage drop but I use an inline meter.. I didn't fully charge the battery, but it reads 4.17v firing a .2 dual 24g build in the Dark Horse..that's pretty good under a load...good enough as I don't use my mechs much anymore.. Just have them around still for backup..

4.17v batt voltage

4.17v with .2 ohm build..
This mod has close to zero Voltage drop.....kinda hard taking pics but you can see what I'm talking about. BTW, mod is my 26650 BFM....

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[Bean8379]

I don't know how you guys are testing voltage drop but I use an inline meter.. I didn't fully charge the battery, but it reads 4.17v firing a .2 dual 24g build in the Dark Horse..that's pretty good under a load...good enough as I don't use my mechs much anymore.. Just have them around still for backup..

4.17v batt voltage

4.17v with .2 ohm build..
This mod has close to zero Voltage drop.....kinda hard taking pics but you can see what I'm talking about. BTW, mod is my 26650 BFM....

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You don't know what a dmm is? Digital multimeter? Not everyone has an inline voltage meter. Other than not using the same type of meter you do, I tested it exactly the way you said. You told me to test it without an atty, but in the pics you posted I can clearly see the atty attached. Without an atty (which is exactly how you told me to test it) there is 0 voltage drop in my tube.

 

[smacksy]

You don't know what a dmm is? Digital multimeter? Not everyone has an inline voltage meter. Other than not using the same type of meter you do, I tested it exactly the way you said. You told me to test it without an atty, but in the pics you posted I can clearly see the atty attached. Without an atty (which is exactly how you told me to test it) there is 0 voltage drop in my tube.

First pic is without the atty if you look close...second pic is with the atty under load.. Sure, I know what a DMM is but I don't use it on my mods..just for electrical work on my truck.. Charger is digital also...got the inline meter just for my mods... easy to use and was only $10...if you are going to use mechs a inline voltmeter is great to have on hand

it has both male and female 510 connections

this screws into your mod....

and this end to screw in your Atty to see how much voltage it takes to fire it..
BTW, you see I added these extra photo's to help you understand why I don't need a DMM to troubleshoot my mech mods... But I'm not gonna put anyone down for using one...if it works for you that's great...


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[Bean8379]

The fact that you have to state you're not going to put anyone down for using a dmm perfectly points out the fact that you have a negatively judgmental opinion towards it.

 

[Robert B]

You have to be able to measure the difference when there is no atty attached, to with one attached. You could use a dmm with alligator clips onto the posts of the atty or use 3 hands, But then you will probably have some voltage drop with the long dmm leeds. Much more practical to use a voltmeter designed for mods and attys like smacksy has.

 

[Bean8379]

I can't get my hands on an inline meter right now, but I can test it with my dmm when my atty's get here tomorrow.

 

[smacksy]

The fact that you have to state you're not going to put anyone down for using a dmm perfectly points out the fact that you have a negatively judgmental opinion towards it.

What part you don't understand? I mean like I'm trying to be nice about it... and yes I may have a negative attitude because I would not use one and I don't use one and if you want to use one that's on you.. but after vaping for three and a half years I know what works for me and is not a digital multimeter. Deal with it...

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[Bean8379]

What part you don't understand? I mean like I'm trying to be nice about it... and yes I may have a negative attitude because I would not use one and I don't use one and if you want to use one that's on you.. but after vaping for three and a half years I know what works for me and is not a digital multimeter. Deal with it...

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You don't have to say anything else, bud. I read you loud and clear.

 

[Robert B]

I can't get my hands on an inline meter right now, but I can test it with my dmm when my atty's get here tomorrow.

I wouldn't worry about it. Having an inline meter is for people who like to tinker with shit, but serves no real useful purpose. Your charger will give you more info on battery health.

As long as your mod is clean, threads and all, and everything adjusted correctly, that will be the max voltage drop it can possibly have. And if you like the way it vapes, then thats all the counts.

 

[Bean8379]

I wouldn't worry about it. Having an inline meter is for people who like to tinker with shit, but serves no real useful purpose. Your charger will give you more info on battery health.

As long as your mod is clean, threads and all, and everything adjusted correctly, that will be the max voltage drop it can possibly have. And if you like the way it vapes, then thats all the counts.

The charger I'll be using is an xtar travel charger, no readout. But my dmm can at least tell me that my battery is OK. Yeah, some people have a bunch of fancy doodads and think that makes them the cool kid in class. I ain't worried about it for one second. I haven't used my mech mod yet, so I've no idea how it vapes but I hope I will like it. I plan on testing my voltage every time I vape for at least the first day or two until I get an idea of what my battery life will be. I've been using a twist battery and pyrex tank with disposable coils for a long time, and I'm ready to move on from that. So tired of clogging coils.

 

[Robert B]

As you vape on the mech, you will notice when the battery starts to get weak. I notice a diminished vape at around 3.5 to 3.6 volts running .15ohm coils. If you're going to get serious with mechs, I would advise getting a better battery charger with readout. I use two nitecore D2 chargers, and everyone says the Xtar's are great too.

It's a lot easier to see battery health on a charger then screwing around with a voltmeter of any kind, unless you have a box mod like this

 

[Bean8379]

I'm not gonna be messing around with the mech for too long unless I really really like it. Told my wife I want an istick 30w for Christmas. The nemesis was free, so I took it. Only got $10 in this thing, for the battery and 100 ft of coil wire. I do appreciate your input though. If I find I really really like the mech, I will invest in some better equipment for it.

 

[Robert B]

I'm not gonna be messing around with the mech for too long unless I really really like it. Told my wife I want an istick 30w for Christmas. The nemesis was free, so I took it. Only got $10 in this thing, for the battery and 100 ft of coil wire. I do appreciate your input though. If I find I really really like the mech, I will invest in some better equipment for it.

Wow, you got a free authentic nemesis? Those mods are over 200 bucks. I wish I had friends like your friends !! If you don't like the Nemi, you can always sell it and buy a much much better mod than the iStick30

 

[Bean8379]

O wouldn't feel right selling something I was given. No, I will keep it as a backup. I think the istick will be fine for me, I don't need or want anything super powerful. I'm not planning on getting into comp or chasing clouds at all. All I really care about is the nic hit. It's what I got into vaping for in the first place. I get a good nic hit off my pen, I'd probably keep using it if the coil didn't clog almost every single day. I just want something that's regulated so I can run the battery down without worrying about it venting.

 

[Robert B]

O wouldn't feel right selling something I was given. No, I will keep it as a backup. I think the istick will be fine for me, I don't need or want anything super powerful. I'm not planning on getting into comp or chasing clouds at all. All I really care about is the nic hit. It's what I got into vaping for in the first place. I get a good nic hit off my pen, I'd probably keep using it if the coil didn't clog almost every single day. I just want something that's regulated so I can run the battery down without worrying about it venting.

Haha, you won't vent the battery as long as you keep within the limits of the battery. What nic level are you at right now?

 

[Bean8379]

I'm at 3mg and its actually quite satisfying for me. I was vaping 18mg for awhile and the nic hit was intermittent at best. Just recently switched to 100% vg 3mg and the nic hit is much more consistent. And that's in my pen, so I'm imagining it will be a little better when I start dripping. I read somewhere that since there is nothing to prevent the battery from firing, if you fire it when the voltage is too low you can vent the battery. People have told me so many things about how dangerous mechs are and that you can blow your face or your hands off. I'm not letting it stop me and smart enough to know the difference between practical advice and scared fanboy talk (fanboys being the ones with the fanciest regulated boxes who don't have the balls to try a mech. A lot of them around where I live). Even the owner of my local shop was saying I should get a regulated box because of the "hazards" associated with mechs. I almost didn't take the mech at first because of what people were saying, but in the end I decided for myself because my logic was there are plenty of people safely using mechs, and all I need to know is how to operate it safely and inspect my equipment every once in awhile. I learned more from doing my own research than what any scared fanboy has told me so far. And I'm not referring to all owners of regulated mods as fanboys. Only the ones who are too scared to try a mech because they heard one story about someone who did something dumb and hurt themselves but don't realize that most mech failures are due to user error. Anyway, I'm rambling. The other reason I want an istick is for the USB charging capability and multi-function readout. I like things that have readouts and tell me what is going on all the time. Just like my custom lighting/charging system on my motorized bicycle (designed myself). I made my own onboard voltage meter so I know exactly what's going on with my system at any given moment. When the generator is spinning, it reads the voltage off of that. When it's not, it reads the voltage off the battery minus the drop from the lights being on. And also constantly testing different things with my dmm. Pure curiosity.

 

[Bean8379]

I'm not yet 100% positive that this is an authentic nemesis, but I am about 95% certain. I honestly do not think the girl who gave it to me knew how much it is worth. I think it was given to her by another friend, she tried dripping and didn't like it so it sat around. I met her through a Facebook group. She doesn't live very far to me, but I never met her or knew her in person till she offered to give me this nemesis. If it is indeed authentic, now knowing how much these are worth, it will definitely get more use probably even after I get a regulated mod. I enjoy owning top of the line items and I don't let them sit around collecting dust. Anyway, based on the features, it looks to be authentic. The threads for the locking ring are consistent with that of an authentic, as well as the fact that the logo and lettering are etched and not painted on. I messaged atmomixani on Facebook with the serial number, as I've googled and can't find another way of checking. It's 8781, which if this is authentic, is a fairly low sn.

 

[Robert B]

People tend to be leery of things they don't understand which is ok with me. Better that than reckless. Authentic mod or not, choosing the right coil build for the battery you're running is key. Utilize Steam Engine calculator. My rule of thumb is to stick with the battery companies that actually manufacture batteries like LG & Samsung, and not re-wrap them. Keep your builds within their specs. A couple guys over in battery junkie forums are good sources of info. Mooch recently tested a 26650 Efest battery. His tests reveled the so called 32a battery actually behaved more like a 10a battery.

It's shit like this, these re-wrap companies over rating their batteries that get user's in trouble. They print cool looking labels and lie about the battery's capacity. The battery may function fine in a regulated device, but can show it's true colors in a mech. MXJO re-wraps batteries. They have one that behaves exactly like a Samsung 25r (which is probably what it its). So why the hell not buy the Samsung in the first place? At least you know what your getting.

Over all, it's real simple. Be aware, pay attention, & be sensible what you are doing with your equipment, and you'll be fine. I use 1 regulated device and a tank for when I'm driving, everything else are mech's and drippers for me. Nothing beats the flavor you get with a dialed in dripper, and for me, nothing beats a quality mechanical.

 

[Bean8379]

The more you talk the more you got me thinking about sticking with the mech lol. Main reason I'm thinking about the istick is to have a backup, then again I can always get another mech. Whichever one performs better can be my daily driver and the other can be the backup. Someone sent me a couple clone rda's and a kayfun lite plus. If I like how the kayfun performs and if I don't have any clogging or leaking problems, I will use the tank for when I'm out and about, and drip at home. I'm thinking of having this nemesis cerakoted. I don't know if you have ever seen any of the resident evil movies, but the second one is called resident evil: apocalypse, and the one character is codenamed project nemesis. Thought it would be awesome to have it cerakoted with a design of him in it. Either that or engraved, whichever is less expensive.

 

[Bean8379]

Well, got my nemesis running today. Voltage drop or no, I'm happy with it. 1.2 ohms and its hitting nicely for me. Not chucking serious clouds or anything, just a good nic hit and that's all I wanted.