Have any in mind that will work with 26650 and are future proof for sub ohm tanks that may come out? I may upgrade to the herkales sub ohm tank not sure if using .2 ohms would be a good idea.Any mech with the exception of ones that use a hybrid 510 connector. Stay away from those. I like my Copper Fuhattan with my Subtank Mini.
Just curious as to what makes the hybrid connector special in this case?Any mech with the exception of ones that use a hybrid 510 connector. Stay away from those. I like my Copper Fuhattan with my Subtank Mini.
What is a hybrid connector? I haven't even heard of them up till nowImproperly connecting a tank to a hybrid will cause a hard short, aka, you WILL be in the news.
It's where your atomizer has a direct connect to the battery such as these. You have to make sure the positive post protrudes out far enough to touch the battery without the negative post touching too. If the negative touches the battery, you will short circuit the battery and have potential big problems.What is a hybrid connector? I haven't even heard of them up till now
Basically, you skip the 510 connection and your tank hooks directly to the battery. They will blow up or vent if you use the wrong tank. Whatever is on top needs to have a long positive pin which connects to the baattery, not the negative. Its best to stay away, imo. Advanced vapers like them as there is no voltage drop. Nothing between your device and battery. Originally they were sold together as a set. Now, you can get a hybrid device and stick anything on top, which is how people are getting into trouble. If you get a regulated device, you will not see vvoltage drop, you can set it where you like it and it will stay that way. With a mech, your first pulls on a fresh battery will be stronger. The performance will continue to drop until you change your battery.What is a hybrid connector? I haven't even heard of them up till now
So ya say you want to hook up an Atlantis tank to a 4-Nine? Let me show ya something
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I've never used a hades, but I would assume it would be fine since it's not a hybrid style, and has an adjustable contact pin on the capHey guys thanks for all the info, I just wanted to make sure I'd be safe with the Hades mod and subtank mini so would I be?
That sucks about the Manta, especially being an authentic attyHa, I miss that show....but on a serious note I like your diagrams and your meme...I am admitting t stealing them for future reference use...they should be used in every "hi I'm new to mechs and gots a hybrid" thread for demonstration purposes. Another thing you have to watch out for with a hybrid connector isn't that just the center pin sticks out a good way past the 510 threading but also that it is sturdy....a soft copper screw can be pushed in and warped from being pushed up against the battery to snug over and over again....found that out with the Manta V2...even using the right size flathead screwdriver to tweak it rubs the silver off and warps the copper...it's sad really because it had the potential to be such a kick ass atty and has excellent flavor, some of the best flavor and it's got that top slot air design so you can overdrip and be good...but it ended up being a disappointing time bomb...
JD Tech advertises it to be a hybrid connection style with their Stingray XTI but the truth is I got a second one just because I had to know what went wrong and the screw on the second one couldn't be loosened enough to even safely connect with a battery hybrid style without compromising the security of the positive post in the atty. Scarey stuff.
That sucks about the Manta, especially being an authentic atty
The other option is to get a HexOhm V2 110Watt mod. It's good down to .2, and the vape is just like a freshly charged mech, plus you get the power of 2 18650's. It's worth considering. It's a bite in the ass $$ wise, but an investment that pays off. I love mine big time.
Yeah 26650 batteries aren't good enough yet... I love them simply because I like 28/30mm attys. So I use my Authentic King Kong and Fat Buddha/Tobh etc for dripping. Bottom line is unless you are dripping you shouldn't go with a 26650 mod.I think you would be much better off with an 18650 mod.
I completely agree... Any sub tank should be paired up with a regulated device... I use my Atlantis/Arctic with my Sigelei, K Sub Tank with my Vaporshark rdna40 w/nickel coils.
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I don't think I'd go that far. I use sub-ohm tanks on an 18650 tube mech mod all the time - works fine. As far as the mech is concerned, there's no difference between running a 0.5 ohm coil in a tank vs. a 0.5 ohm dripper. (This is, of course, assuming you know what you're doing. And stay away from hybrid mods for tanks.)
Ummm... Yeah there is. A tank coil can't wick like a dripper. That is why sending 4.2v to a .5 atomizer ends in a burnt coil. Now if you are using 50/50 juice it might keep up but not a Max VG
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Since when does sending 4.2 volts to a coil mean it's automatically fried? I've built several coils over the years of all kinds of resistances that would disprove that theory in a New York Second....and you shouldn't use Max VG in most tanks any way since they're not designed for it...what kind of mod you're using has nothing to do with what PG/VG ratio your coil is designed to handle. If that was the case we would have never been able to use cartomizers in tanks in the first place
I push 4 volts to my Kanger Subtank coils with a Vaporshark all the time...technically you'd continually be pushing less and less voltage to a coil with a mech mod as the battery dies. That's why running a sub ohm tank on a regulated device is preferable...so you can "fine tune" your setting and get the same repeated vape over and over again and not a constant change in vape quality as the battery dies.
The only inherent risk of running a sub ohm tank on a tube mech is if you tried to run it on a hybrid connection you would short it out as most of not all sub ohm tank center pins are NOT DESIGNED FOR HYBRID CONNECTIONS. Do I have everyone's attention? Good, because I found a video and posted it here not that long ago of an idiot that did just that and then couldn't figure out why the damn thing vented and shot into his ceiling and set his apartment on fire.
Other than that...as long as you run a battery with the appropriate continuous drain rating for the tanks coil (a 22 amp continuous drain rated or higher for a .2 ohm coil for example just like for a dripper,) the only real danger of running a sub ohm tank on a mech with a standard top cap you run is a crappy vape from a dying battery as the day goes on....just like a dripper.
Of course I can't see and inspect it, but if it's as solid as it looks and can never get to the point of going beyond flush with the 510 - I approve of this modification. Is it stable side to side with no wobble? If so perfect.Look closely and you'll see I modified the pin on the Arctic base to work SAFELY on my stainless BFM with the hybrid top cap..
I pushed the pin out of the base, screwed a upside down top cap on the 510... filed off a few threads, and cleaned up the threads by simply unscrewing the top cap...now the pin protrudes about 2mm..
With the .2 ohm Arctic coil it vapes great!..
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Been using it offshore tuna fishing, lolOf course I can't see and inspect it, but if it's as solid as it looks and can never get to the point of going beyond flush with the 510 - I approve of this modification. Is it stable side to side with no wobble? If so perfect.
Don't use vegetable oil and it won't boil. Why would anything in the tank boil??Nope no difference... Oh wait besides Boiling VG and an exploding tank... Lmao
A venting battery is the least of your problems when 3 to 8 mls of boiling vegetable oil and glass shards enter the equation.
This is exactly what I'm talking about. Not to mention the pin on Atlantis' etc happen to float and have the tendency to stick while pushed in after being used frequently.
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I can see why he's a bit frustrated with you though. Boiling vegetable glycerine?
Like I say, it matters zero where the pin is. It can get stuck so it's 4mm behind the threads, on a normal top cap mech the pin will float to make connection, or you'll just have to screw the contact pin up more. Worst case, the tank just won't fire. It can't and won't short out
I'm all for safety but... You know when you read something, a post, and think to yourself "what the fuck is he on about?" respectfully, I'm having a "what the fuck is he on about" moment now.
Very well intentioned, but Obsidian, bud, ain't no danger. My rebuildable tanks, are they ok to use? I got a clone plume veil that's got a recessed pin and a decent juice well, will that explode in a sticky ball of glycerine, battery juice and fiery death?
We all need to keep stressing hybrid = protruding and fixed pin. Definitely. My mech is not a hybrid unless I chose for it to be. With a sub ohm tank I would never chose to use the hybrid cap just as I wouldn't on my Plume Veil clone.
Don't use vegetable oil and it won't boil. Why would anything in the tank boil??
Vegetable OIL? Why are you vaping that?The whole point is to warn new people about the risks involved. For those of us who already know everything that can happen (either by reading, testing or learned the hard way in the early days) this is nothing new.
Yes the obvious advice is to never use anything with a recessed pin w/ a hybrid top cap. I just also wanted to point out that just because your rda/rta/etc might not be recessed out of the box it can become flush/recessed after use.
As we all know mechanical devices require more respect and understanding. When a short happens (for whatever reason) it is much more obvious with an rda over a tank.
I agree with you though. The juice that is on your wick and in your juice well will become just as hot as the juice in your tank. I never said otherwise.
But unlike an rda, a tank doesn't have a large chamber or open airflow around the coil(s) for heat to dissipate. That combined with a coil that is submerged in juice. Held inside a tank that has no way to allow the juice & gas to expand if it gets superheated.
Best case, the juice overwhelms the wick/bottom airflow and shoots out there. Serious burns but mainly just on arms/legs.
Worst case it does happen to crack/spray the juice everywhere.
The reason why I used that as a point to lead into not using a tank on any mech (mainly just bottom button tube mods) is simply because I've seen the juice burns from a non vented battery situation happen far too many times. Simply due to user error (not locking button) or a collapsed spring/magnet...
With a regulated device it'll detect any short and not fire. Not to mention the built in idiot proofing and location of the fire button *not* being where you set the device on.
Gets hot, expands, can't escape, and reaches that heat threshold... When it finally does find a route out it sprays and isn't like hot water... It sticks and burns.
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Vegetable OIL? Why are you vaping that?
Why would juice not be able to escape? What kind of sealed tank are you using?? If vapor can get out, juice can get out without pressure pushing it out.
Your warnings to new vapers are insane.
I understand the hybrid mod: tank 510 problems, but boiling vegetable oil?? WTF are you talking about???
Newbies..... Do not take his advice, he vapes oil. Do NOT do that.
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