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mechs and tanks.....
- Thread starter Poppa (K)
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BadLuckAndTrouble
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Its more of a problem using a Hybrid mech mod with any topper be it Tank, RDA, RTA, or clearomizer without a protruding 510 pin on the atomized to keep the battery from touching the outside threads and creating a dead short and sending the battery into thermal runaway or venting.
BadLuckAndTrouble
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BadLuckAndTrouble
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BadLuckAndTrouble
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Well there is also the need to practice ohm's law
BadLuckAndTrouble
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Use http://www.steam-engine.org/ to make sure that your coils are under the amp limit of your battery at 4.2v (the calc is set lower by default so always remember to adjust this)
In a mech, especially, always use authentic batteries from a legitimate suppliers.
The most widely accepted batteries would be the Sony VTC3/VTC4, Samsung 25R, LG HE2/HE4s
In a mech, especially, always use authentic batteries from a legitimate suppliers.
The most widely accepted batteries would be the Sony VTC3/VTC4, Samsung 25R, LG HE2/HE4s
This.
Tanks on mech mods is something frowned upon because of how easy it is to just grab a tank and go. You can't just slap it together and vape with a mech mod, you have to do the (very easy) math and have at least a basic understanding of what's going on. You want to get good batteries too!
I've seen someone say they were looking at getting a noisy cricket for their TFV4 wanting to use the quad coils. That's 8.4/.15= 56, 56 amp draw on 18650s in series... only over or at least close to double any battery's CDR (20-30a depending on battery). Likewise even without the series box, say a tube mod that's 28amps, still pushing it and you'd want to make sure you have Sony VTC4s or even better LG HB2s.
So the "no tanks on mechs" started because of the pin concern, more tanks have started using the protruding pin, so that's not a huge issue anymore as long as you're aware. But, I don't think anyone wants to correct the whole issue because if you're listening to the general "rule of thumb" type things without fully understanding then you probably shouldn't be using a mech period
At least it's that way IMO.
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Poppa (K)
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So the "no tanks on mechs" started because of the pin concern, more tanks have started using the protruding pin, so that's not a huge issue anymore as long as you're aw are. But, I don't think anyone wants to correct the whole issue because if you're listening to the general "rule of thumb" type things without fully understanding then you probably shouldn't be using a mech period
i was checking a few online shops today, and the message was the same everywhere: don't use tanks with mechs. no further explanation. that is where i was left danging. ohm's law, battery safety, protruding pin. check, check, check. did i miss something that is just a tank issue? knowing that it is just a pin issue will change my narrative when i talk to others about mechs and tanks.
time to enjoy my STM and SMPL
thanks
If there is, I've done some bad things. The one other thing I might think about is the coils. With stock coils sometimes you have a dud coil and that could lead to potential problems. I'd probably work it in with a regulated mod and make sure it's looking good, or just stick to RTAs.i was checking a few online shops today, and the message was the same everywhere: don't use tanks with mechs. no further explanation. that is where i was left danging. ohm's law, battery safety, protruding pin. check, check, check. did i miss something that is just a tank issue? knowing that it is just a pin issue will change my narrative when i talk to others about mechs and tanks.
time to enjoy my STM and SMPL
thanks
Poppa (K)
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i build my own coils for the RTA deck. i double checked it on my IPV4 for shorts and resistance (.95ohms/i played it safe to start) before screwing it to the mech. i've already been able to figure when my battery is out of the 'sweet spot' and swap it out early.
I made it a point to buy mechs that have 510 center pins so no worries about whatever I put on there. I also drill venting holes around the top of my tube mechs. Because the venting in most tube mechs is pathetic and on the wrong end. If a battery starts to vent it swells up and seals off the switch end venting. I wrap all my coils so they can be used on a mech or regulated.
A little shorter and no top pin to have to adjust to your atty. And sometimes less voltage drop.
Cheaper seems to be the biggest benefit. SMPL clones abound for $10-15.
You can also put the batteries in with the positive facing the button, doesnt matter on a mech
only makes sense if the venting is in the button tho
Poppa (K)
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You can also put the batteries in with the positive facing the button, doesnt matter on a mech
always do it this way. always do it this way. always do it this way, because we are all supposed to be doing the same thing.
try it this way, it makes sense. try it this way, because you are able to see all the facts.
as the owner of a SMPL, this makes all the sense in the world.
I couldnt use my subtank mini (kangertech) on the smpl because it has no protruding positive pin, make sure urs is sticking out
Poppa (K)
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the pin on mine sticks out .5mm. when i tighten the button down, it is done on the palm of my hand. just enough to keep the button tight, without it coming loose. no fear of denting the battery and dead shorting that way. after further examination, my bats will be going in the old fashion way. better contact at the button this way.
i'm absolutely in love with this set-up. it is has become my everywhere vape.all the convenience of a tank that hits like an RDA that i can slip into any pocket. a great change from taking my IPV everywhere.
smpl is hard to beat when it comes to pocketable combos