Mikhail Naumov
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Modding parts don't cost what people want you to think they do. I buy wholesale, also.
It costs me about $60-80 to make an iPWM mod, lipo included. Varies depending on enclosure size. Big Al's boards aren't expensive, only $17 a pop for an iPWM with the pot attached. I can get wholesale ATI enclosures, like an N1 (the most expensive) for $15 a box opposed to the $25 retail price. Due to this I can keep the cost down.
It makes me sick when I see people charging $250+ for DNA mods or anything that isn't stab wood or obviously expensive to make. A good lipo charger can be had for $15, and you do NOT need a fire bag to charge lipos. I don't even own one anymore.
Enclosure: $10-$15
iPWM board w/ pot - $15 (WS discount) OR Evolv DNA250 board ($40 ea. wholesale, that's straight up what I paid for 30 boards last time)
510 connector - $5
Bulk wiring (12-15 feet) (enough to make 10+ mods) - $5
Mitec switch - $7
Bulk XT60 pack (10-15) (enough to make 10+ mods) - $5 (Lipo mods)
Heat shrink and misc. shit - $10
LED Volt meter - $3
Turnigy Lipo - $20
3D Printed PETG Battery Sled - $5 (Non-lipo mods)
90% of modders are ripping their customers a new asshole, I understand tools like soldering irons, drill bits, etc. are factored in, but not THAT much. A modder is expected to have ALL of those tools BEFORE he even begins his modding job.
I charge $220 for my MOST expensive mod, and that's a DNA250 CNC 1590N1 squonker with a 3S lipo included. The ONLY time I will charge more than this is for stab wood resin injected enclosures, as my guy asks $180 for the cheapest enclosure ALONE.
Also the balance charger on the DNA board is amazing, there is no reason at all you should feel obligated to go out and buy a lipo charger if you have a DNA mod powered by a lipo, as the board and a USB cable are perfectly capable of doing a fine balance charge.
Manny a lot of the things you listed are luxuries, not necessities. Also you do not need a $50+ charger, you can get an EV-Peak E4 4A easy lipo charger for around $15, 2S, 3S and 4S lipos can be charged with it.
If you want to pay $250+ for a setup you personally like and you feel like it's nice, go for it. I'm not saying don't, what I am saying is that you do not have to pay that kind of money to get a custom DNA/PWM mod.
I used to work for MaxAmps RC, I can tell you their batteries are not worth the outrageously high price they sell for, nor are they 100C continuous batteries. They're closer to 100C burst/pulse. The Mah ratings on them are usually overrated as well. I use Turnigy Nanotech's, very nice, compact lipo's that cost $15-$30 on average, with accurate C/Mah ratings to boot. The MaxAmps 3S 1,850mah battery I see EVERY WHERE I have tested, it's closer to 40C Cont. / 80C Pulse and 1,450mah. It's also worth around $30 realistically, but is sold for $70+.
The battery I personally use the most is a Turnigy Nanotech 4S 2,200mah 45C/90C battery. It is a true 100A cont, 200A pulse battery that can be had for around $25-$30.
It costs me about $60-80 to make an iPWM mod, lipo included. Varies depending on enclosure size. Big Al's boards aren't expensive, only $17 a pop for an iPWM with the pot attached. I can get wholesale ATI enclosures, like an N1 (the most expensive) for $15 a box opposed to the $25 retail price. Due to this I can keep the cost down.
It makes me sick when I see people charging $250+ for DNA mods or anything that isn't stab wood or obviously expensive to make. A good lipo charger can be had for $15, and you do NOT need a fire bag to charge lipos. I don't even own one anymore.
Enclosure: $10-$15
iPWM board w/ pot - $15 (WS discount) OR Evolv DNA250 board ($40 ea. wholesale, that's straight up what I paid for 30 boards last time)
510 connector - $5
Bulk wiring (12-15 feet) (enough to make 10+ mods) - $5
Mitec switch - $7
Bulk XT60 pack (10-15) (enough to make 10+ mods) - $5 (Lipo mods)
Heat shrink and misc. shit - $10
LED Volt meter - $3
Turnigy Lipo - $20
3D Printed PETG Battery Sled - $5 (Non-lipo mods)
90% of modders are ripping their customers a new asshole, I understand tools like soldering irons, drill bits, etc. are factored in, but not THAT much. A modder is expected to have ALL of those tools BEFORE he even begins his modding job.
I charge $220 for my MOST expensive mod, and that's a DNA250 CNC 1590N1 squonker with a 3S lipo included. The ONLY time I will charge more than this is for stab wood resin injected enclosures, as my guy asks $180 for the cheapest enclosure ALONE.
Also the balance charger on the DNA board is amazing, there is no reason at all you should feel obligated to go out and buy a lipo charger if you have a DNA mod powered by a lipo, as the board and a USB cable are perfectly capable of doing a fine balance charge.
Manny a lot of the things you listed are luxuries, not necessities. Also you do not need a $50+ charger, you can get an EV-Peak E4 4A easy lipo charger for around $15, 2S, 3S and 4S lipos can be charged with it.
If you want to pay $250+ for a setup you personally like and you feel like it's nice, go for it. I'm not saying don't, what I am saying is that you do not have to pay that kind of money to get a custom DNA/PWM mod.
I used to work for MaxAmps RC, I can tell you their batteries are not worth the outrageously high price they sell for, nor are they 100C continuous batteries. They're closer to 100C burst/pulse. The Mah ratings on them are usually overrated as well. I use Turnigy Nanotech's, very nice, compact lipo's that cost $15-$30 on average, with accurate C/Mah ratings to boot. The MaxAmps 3S 1,850mah battery I see EVERY WHERE I have tested, it's closer to 40C Cont. / 80C Pulse and 1,450mah. It's also worth around $30 realistically, but is sold for $70+.
The battery I personally use the most is a Turnigy Nanotech 4S 2,200mah 45C/90C battery. It is a true 100A cont, 200A pulse battery that can be had for around $25-$30.
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