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My Evic Vtc Mini is really hot after vaping

zafirovp

Member For 2 Years
Hi all,

I have .18 ohm dual fused clapton build on my Velocity V1 and usually use it on 2 or 3 battery mods. My only charged mod today was my VTC mini so I tried vaping with the velocity at 75 watts. The vape was OK but the mod got really hot. The temp on the board hit 70 degrees celsius. The battery is 2 months old VTC6.

Is it safe to vape that low on single battery?


How many amps is it pulling on the input side?

What is the highest safe temperature for the board?

Thanks


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Johnnytraveler

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Entering 0.18 ohms and 75 watts, I get this:
398373f04dbfa255e59d4eed91f59a2e.jpg
 

Johnnytraveler

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
It's a regulated device so it should be safe. But you are running it at its' maximum capabilities. So you are stressing the system. Doing it for 1 day, you should be ok. But I don't recommend making a regular habit of it.

Additionally joyetech typically uses cheap wiring causing additional heat problems.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Hi all,

I have .18 ohm dual fused clapton build on my Velocity V1 and usually use it on 2 or 3 battery mods. My only charged mod today was my VTC mini so I tried vaping with the velocity at 75 watts. The vape was OK but the mod got really hot. The temp on the board hit 70 degrees celsius. The battery is 2 months old VTC6.

Is it safe to vape that low on single battery?


How many amps is it pulling on the input side?

What is the highest safe temperature for the board?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The resistance doesn't matter, it's regulated, so no worries there. Remember Ohms law applies to the output stage, but it is watts/input voltage/efficiency for the input side amp load.

It is pulling 24.2A assuming a 3.1V cutoff before efficiency on the input side, if the mod is as efficient as the DNA75 this would then be 28.46A at 75W.

I don't actually know what is the highest safe operating temperature for that board, apologies there.
 

Angrygod50

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Your definitely stressing the mod and I doubt its hitting with 75 watts. Mine never works well with beefy dual coils at that low ohms.
 

zafirovp

Member For 2 Years
The resistance doesn't matter, it's regulated, so no worries there. Remember Ohms law applies to the output stage, but it is watts/input voltage/efficiency for the input side amp load.

It is pulling 24.2A assuming a 3.1V cutoff before efficiency on the input side, if the mod is as efficient as the DNA75 this would then be 28.46A at 75W.

I don't actually know what is the highest safe operating temperature for that board, apologies there.

25 amps with VTC6 sound scary.

Can you give me the formula by wich you calculate the amps draw on the input side

Thanks


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conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
25 amps with VTC6 sound scary.

Can you give me the formula by wich you calculate the amps draw on the input side

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of course, it is your set power in watts, divided by the minimum input voltage. This is where it is at it's maximum, similar to how you calculate at 4.2V for a mech, so around 3.1V unless you know the cutoff is different.

The formula is- Watts/minimum input battery voltage/ efficiency.

A average cutoff is 3.1V per cell, so in your case this-
75W divided by 3.1 divided by efficiency (0.85)=28.46A

So for say 50W, it is- 50 divided by 3.1=16.12. Add in efficiency is 18.97A.

At 75W, it would be 75 divided by 3.1. This is 24.19A. Add the efficiency in, and it is 28.46A.
 

David Wolf

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
As you can see from @conanthewarrior post above, you are potentially operating at a current well in excess of the true continuous current rating of a Sony VTC6 battery which is 15 Amps. Mooch tested this battery and rated it for 19 Amps continuous, but I always recommend staying within the ratings provided by the manufacturer, for they take into account manufacturing tolerances, etc. I personally like more margin to account for an aging battery and use 80% of the continuous current rating.

Here's what Mooch said about the Sony VTC6:
"This is an great underrated cell that I am rating at 19A/3000mAh. The datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A but that's only if you stop the discharge when the cell reaches 80°C, way before a continuous discharge has finished. The true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A. But at that current level the temperature is 72°C, about 6°C-9°C cooler than other batteries at their rating. This is why I feel it is underrated, like the Samsung 30Q, and why I have given it a 19A rating. It runs at a slightly higher voltage than both the 30Q and HG2 though."

Your case is a perfect example of why Resistance DOES matter even in regulated mods.
A few things to consider:
1. Resistance should be within the mod manufacturers range for power (watts) or TC mode. (This assumes you have a battery that can supply the current for the power you are vaping at!)
2. Resistance of the coil you use often has a bearing on the Power (watts) setting you want to vape at, and the power setting should not cause your battery continuous current rating to be exceeded. For me, that means 0.8 times battery continuous current rating, to allow for degradation due tobattery aging, I'm a conservative engineer :)
3. Resistance of the coil can limit the power you can vape at. For an Evic Mini with a 1.8 ohm coil, you're not going to be able to go higher than 45W, even with 75 Watts selected, since the maximum voltage the Evic VTC mini can provide is 9V and P=V(squared)/Resistance. So yah, resistance does matter. (I know, no one would vape a 1.8 ohm coil at 45 Watts, but this is to make the point, lol).

For mod efficiency, the few ratings I've seen are a little better than 85%, so I've used 90% (0.90) in my calculations, but nothing wrong with being conservative and using 0.85 since the manufacturers rarely provide the efficiency rating.

If your battery is at 4V, I=P/V/Eff = 75/4/0.85= 22 Amps.
If your battery is at the "battery low" alert voltage of 3.3V for the Evic VTC Mini, your current is at. 26.7 Amps. (mod should lock and not fire).
I never try to count on a manufacturers "protections" to protect me from using the wrong battery for a given power level, the formulas are quite simple.

So, can you run a mod at 75W using a single Sony VTC6? You proved you can, at least for a while, but its gonna get hot. How hot is your battery? Answer, we have no idea. Should you? I think absolutely not, IMR is a very reputable company, and they sell the VTC6 as a 15 Amp battery:
https://www.imrbatteries.com/sony-vtc6-18650-3000mah-15a-flat-top-battery/

This is a great battery with conservatism built in at the 15A continuous rating, so I would have no problem running it to that rating.
 
Last edited:

zafirovp

Member For 2 Years
Thanks so much. I appreciate it. Just set my wattage to 60.:)

So 52w/3.2v/0.85 = 19.11 = I got the wrong battery type :(
 
Last edited:

David Wolf

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
Thanks so much. I appreciate it. Just set my wattage to 60.:)

So 52w/3.2v/0.85 = 19.11 = I got the wrong battery type :(
I think you're good at 60W your not vaping continuously. It's a trade off between capacity (mah) and maximum continuous current. A 30 amp continuous rating battery is going to be around 1500 to 2100 mah typically, and a 3000 mah battery will be 15 to 20A rating typically.
 

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