Nemesis help-rice pin issues.

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people, I want to say thank you to people that help me on here, and also wish you all well.

On my nemesis clones, my solid brass one stays screwed in, but after undoing the fire button a few times, it falls apart and I have to put it back together (not hard, just annoying).

But the baby blue model has much smoother threads, and when I unscrew the fire button to use it, it unscrews the WHOLE unit inside, making the battery rattle about, untill I remove the firing pin, screw the unit right up, then put the fire button and pin back together.

You can understand this is annoying every other time I use it, this happens. I realise the 'rice pin' is meant to stop this, but I have no Idea how, as it does not seem to attach to anything when it is unscrewed? It just sits there, filling a channel that was empty, but doing nothing.

I notice inside the device there is a small carved piece, I guess when put together the rice pin sits inside this? If it does, this confuses me even more as it would make the unit unscrew even easier, as it is connecting the pin, which is free to roll, to not being free to roll.

I have tried with the pin( I made one out of plastic, I could not find the right type of coat hanger).

So, could anyone give me some tips, or another mech mod that is good, and easily obtainable via china, that does not have the issues the nemesis does? My fiancees baby blue one seems to work fine without this issue.

So, could any one help me solve this issue, AND also recommend me another mechanical mod (single battery) that is easy to get cheapish clones of, like around 20 dollars or so?

 

[3mg Meniere]

The rice pin stabilizes the button, enabling it to move vertically but not horizontally. It is essential. When you lock and unlock the device, you should not move the base (button) along with it. You really don't need to remove the base to replace batteries, either. With time, the screw gets loose, lengthening the locking mechanism, and you need to remove the base and screw it in, or with some models, you can use a screwdriver with the tubes unscrewed as if for battery exchange.

Hope this resolves your questions.

 

[smacksy]

The only other suggestion I can think of is to make sure the batt contact is screwed down tightly in the firing button. This ensures the switch won't come apart when you unscrew it to change the battery ..
Hope this helps...

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk

 

[conanthewarrior]

I have had to resort to screwing it in all the way to resolve it. Unfortunately it leaves a .5mm gap in the middle of the mod, but all contact is being made (Brass model).

I am not using my baby blue model, as there is definitely resistance in the fire button. I thought I sorted it last night, but today it started getting hot again. It also puts out far less vapour with the same battery than the brass one. I checked conductivity, they are identical, and can not work out the issue at all.

Oh well, it was only a tenner so don't mind sacrificing that for safety.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I really do not understand it. My fiancees baby blue, exact same clone does not get a hot fire button, and produces clouds like my brass nemesis.

My one, however, gets a hot fire button and produces much smaller clouds. This is all with the same RDA and battery.

Mine is set up the same as hers, so I am at a loss as to what is causing resistance in the fire button.

EDIT: Ok, I tried a different dripper on my one. Fine. No warmth, and the multimeter tests are fine.

it must be the el cabron, I have no idea why though as there is no shorts, and it works fine on hers and my brass nemesis. Confused oclock.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK, I took apart the mod completely, and put it back together. It now works fine with the el cabron.

I have no Idea what was causing the issues, but they do not now exist, an vapour production is on par with the other brass nemesis.