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New Mech
- Thread starter Rl711
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What type of mech are you looking for?
Tube, Box, Parallel, Series?
How much are you willing to shell out for any of these?
I would say Ebay is best SO FAR as the type is not specified yet.
What are you putting on for a Atomizer? What Batteries do you own and will use in it?
I would want it Full Copper and Parallel+ Box Mod, this is just my opinion
Best choices IMO:
Tube would be SubOhm Innovations Mod (Authentic) or a Stingray X (Clone).
For a Parallel Box I would choose a Dimitri (Clone) or Raptor (Clone), Tres Equis
For Series: Noisy Cricket (Clone or Authentic) or HOG V2
Tube, Box, Parallel, Series?
How much are you willing to shell out for any of these?
I would say Ebay is best SO FAR as the type is not specified yet.
What are you putting on for a Atomizer? What Batteries do you own and will use in it?
I would want it Full Copper and Parallel+ Box Mod, this is just my opinion
Best choices IMO:
Tube would be SubOhm Innovations Mod (Authentic) or a Stingray X (Clone).
For a Parallel Box I would choose a Dimitri (Clone) or Raptor (Clone), Tres Equis
For Series: Noisy Cricket (Clone or Authentic) or HOG V2
Smpl's can be had in brass, copper and color coated copper also and all would hit harder than stainless, but the durability and look of stainless made me get that one. My next mech will probably be a noisy cricket. It's kinda like a dual battery, series SMPL. Just a few thoughts.
Thats why I love the Stingray X, its a Copper Tube that is Sleeved with Stainless for Durability and has one of the lowest voltage drops of tubes (especially under $80 tubes)
I like the Stingray X BECAUSE of the button is away from the battery and doesnt get hot even with really low builds, my SMPL button gets super hot...
Spring the magnets broke but it did the same thing. If the magnets do not face flat perfectly then it causes them to become restrictive and cause heat also...
The best thing Ive done is used a spring then wrap it in Kanthal to soak up some of the current so it doesnt get as hot.
The best thing Ive done is used a spring then wrap it in Kanthal to soak up some of the current so it doesnt get as hot.
Anyone who is looking for a stingray x http://www.vaporbank.com/shop/index.php?p=home has them for $7.99 white and stainless. Just ordered one last night and shipped this morning. Also nemsis copper for same price. Check under closeout section lots of RDAs for $2 to 3 dollars and accessories & mods for very cheap tryouts. They are going out of stock pretty fast tho.
I think the CF Clone I have is also a Ivogo, I couldnt believe the quality of a $18 Tube when I got it....Its still my favorite tube to date.
Im sure that will change when I buy the SubOhm Innovations Mod though...
I love MCV, I own the Castigador myself, but my next High End purchase will be a Point Blank Lite...Im not crazy enough to drop a half a grand on a mech...
Any idea on where to still get a true authentic castigador? Haven't seen one for a while and I want one bad.
2VapedX.com and piewholesauce.com thats where I buy my authentic high end gear...I really dont trust anywhere else..
The Tirador is the same (price also) as the Castigador but all black or Brass and black, I dont see the castigador on 2vapedx right now...
I have the subzero competition I highly recommend it.
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I'm a fan of the authentic flagship, best price I've seen is vaporkings. Also the stingrayX clone, you can run that one as a hybrid if you have a topper with a hefty protruding 510.
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Would the kanthal "soak up" ANY of the electricity at all? Seems to me the path of least resistance is the spring (by a pretty wide margin), so the kanthal shouldn't actually see any current. I'm no EE, so I could be way off base here, but that's the way I understand the concept of resistance.
PS - If the spring was getting hot then it's resisting current... wouldn't you want to wrap it in something more conductive instead of something with higher resistance?
So again... if the goal is to prevent heat buildup in the spring/button, then why not wrap it in fine copper wire? I would think that less resistance would equal less heat buildup.
You could...just most people have Kanthal on hand...This is why I suggested it. I dont see why its this much of a problem for you, you can use whatever conductive wire you wish but I suggested Kanthal due to its availability to the person using the mod. This is what I had on hand and what Ive used.
Current will always follow the path of least resistance. The reason your atty fires in a mech mod is because it has led resistance than the over all body of the mod, including the switch assembly. Hot button issues happen when the spring is too thin and is being heated by the current passing threw it. The best solution to this getting magnets but when those aren't available beefing up the spring is the next best solution. Kanthal will work, but since it's a resistance wire it will also cause voltage drop to your atty.
But the Magnets need to be completely flush and meet without any separation or grime or they will heat up also. The more surface area with them the better the connection and less resistance it will have. This is also why pushing the button directly in the middle makes it hit harder then pressing in a side.
Magnets in a switch usually don't ever touch. Them touching would require them to come together at the same exact time the traveling part of the switch touches the battery. That's not what happens. The switch hits the battery before the magnets meet. This causes the switch to rely on shaft/bore contact to complete the circuit which can be inconsistent causing hot button or misfiring. A spring is in constant contact with both switch pieces which provides a consistent connection. A proper spring can actually be better and even fix issues caused by magnets. Most problems caused by springs aren't the result of using a spring, they're caused by not using a proper spring. Just a few rambling thoughts.
I'm a mechanical/materials engineering guy (not an EE), and I've admittedly only examined a relative few mech switches. With that said, I don't see why there should be any current transferred through the spring at all. The designs I've looked at seem to be relying on plenty of solids (copper, brass, steel, etc) being in good surface-to-surface contact when the negative pole is engaged. I would think most cases of heat buildup would come from oxides (or any other crud) on the various surfaces that are supposed to carry the current.
If the switch reaches the point that lots of current is passing through the spring, I would think that a LOT of other surfaces would need to be rather badly oxidized and/or contaminated. Looking over the switches I have (again... a relative few amongst a HUGE variety of designs out there), I would think regular examination and cleaning of the contact surfaces should keep the heat buildup at bay. I guess I'd need to do some side-by-side testing with 2 identical mechs (clean one regularly, and let the other get cruddy) to actually see if there's any big difference in heat.
PS - Switch and breaker manufacturers use a wide variety of specialty alloys to prevent tarnishing, and to withstand arcing. They often use gold or silver plated contacts, or alloys that contain them. There are a LOT of mech mods coming out of China, where they give ZERO consideration for long-term usage. Bear this in mind, and learn/inspect your device's contact points!
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The contact between the battery and switch usually isn't the problem (assuming everything's clean). The problem is the connection between the two main parts of the switch. The bore that doesn't move in the body of the switch and the shaft that does move when the switch is pressed. The shaft is smaller in diameter than the hole it fits and moves back and forth in. A good connection between the two isn't guaranteed. A spring effectively wires the two parts together so the connection is constant. Hopefully the picture in my head is being communicated well.
That's what she said... hah!!!
I guess I was thinking of mods with SMPL type switches and the many similar designs, where you have a somewhat complex (meshing gear-like) geometry that virtually ensures a lot of face-to-face material contact.
I suppose the "perfect storm" button push could indeed make zero points of contact, and thus current through the spring is the fallback path to ground.
With that said, I just pulled the button out of one of my mods and even while trying to get the "perfect" push... it always feels like it's rubbing somewhere. The odds of getting that "perfect push" enough times in a row to get the spring hot are pretty slim. I'm betting that poor (Chinese knockoff) button design, or lack of cleaning play a much larger role in this kind of thing. I have a few knockoff mods on the way from a clearance sale... going to have to examine the switches on these!
With that said, I just pulled the button out of one of my mods and even while trying to get the "perfect" push... it always feels like it's rubbing somewhere. The odds of getting that "perfect push" enough times in a row to get the spring hot are pretty slim. I'm betting that poor (Chinese knockoff) button design, or lack of cleaning play a much larger role in this kind of thing. I have a few knockoff mods on the way from a clearance sale... going to have to examine the switches on these!
Someone earlier said magnets are the best solution. That's not always true. I've helped people fix problems caused by magnets by convincing them to switch to a proper spring. My main point is thoroughly understanding what these switches do and how they do it comes before trying to diagnose any problems they're having. Saying magnets always trump springs tells me dude needs to understand these switches a little better. Also, it can only take one good pull where a crappy spring carries the bulk of the current for that crappy spring to overheat and deform. I'm just trying to fill gaps in info. Not really disagreeing with you.
I agree to agree 
I'm an engineer who smoked for 25 years. I've now quit and am several months into the vaping (down to 6mg). The new addiction that is filling the void for me is dorking out on all the tech aspects of this, so please pardon my questioning every little engineering point to death.
I'm an engineer who smoked for 25 years. I've now quit and am several months into the vaping (down to 6mg). The new addiction that is filling the void for me is dorking out on all the tech aspects of this, so please pardon my questioning every little engineering point to death.
Oh me too. I'm not an engineer, but I do have a strong electronics and mechanical background and this stuff has become more than a nic delivery system for me. I like the geeky part of it also. And I also smoked for about 25 years and vaping has been the only thing that's worked to help me quit the cigs. Hopefully some of the tech talk will not only be interesting to us, but also helpful to others.
I'm not arguing with you by any means. I'm just curious what problems you've in countered with magnets, and if it was in any particular kind of mod.
The only problems I've in countered with magnets where on the stingray x or at least clones of it.