New to manual power vape...question about coil ohms and safe wattage without blowing coil

[derpenherts]

First, HOWDY! New to the forum and, as stated, I'm new to manual wattage/voltage vaping. I've used standard stick kits before and I'm familiar with vaping in general, but I've been back on the cancer sticks for quite a while and I'm trying to revert but I'm quite out of the loop with these new fangled contraptions. So here's the scoop:
My Pop gave me his extra kit, already setup and used very lightly so its nearly new. It's an ELeaf iStick 30w battery with an Aspire tank, currently with a 1.9ohm resist burner, which I'm still using as it's not hitting dry or anything yet. They got me a pack of Aspire BVC 1.8ohm burners. Looking at the package, theyre rated for 4.2v max. I'm currently using some Mountain Oak Vapors 18mg Frostbite (I like the bitter, minty menthol taste). It's a high VG liquid and hits pretty nice at about 16w/5.5v. When I first started vaping, like 8 years ago, I was hitting 36mg liquids which some people tell me is nuts XD.
I talked a bit with the guys who sold us the burners and they told me I should be hitting these coils at about 9w. That seemed kinda low, because they told me the high VG liquids should hit better at higher power. From a simple Google search on "1.8 ohm coil wattage" to run through coils based on their ohms, I should be hitting around 5v-6.4v based on a graph I found.
Like I said, I haven't replaced the burner yet so I'm still running off the 1.9ohm burner on the system. It hits really nice at 16w/5.5v as the graph suggested.
My question is, what stat should I be using to get a proper vape with the new burners when I replace it and how long should I expect it to last?

Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for your suggestions!

 

[HondaDavidson]

On a regulated mod... in general if it fires it's safe...... at least for the mod.... to high a wattage you could in theory burn yourself on the steam.

Optimum ohm depends on the vape you want and atomizer you are using. I stick 30 will fire from .4ohm to i think 5ohm coils... does about 8 amps.... you try pulling more than 8 amps it shuts off. This will only occur if trying to fire at 30 watts with a less than .5ohm coil. In which case it will either not fire or it will max out at what ever watts matches 8amps. Idk max volts output of the mod so I'm nor sure highest ohm to get the 30watts... but i guess it to be around 3ohms or so.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[derpenherts]

On a regulated mod... in general if it fires it's safe...... at least for the mod.... to high a wattage you could in theory burn yourself on the steam.

Optimum ohm depends on the vape you want and atomizer you are using. I stick 30 will fire from .4ohm to i think 5ohm coils... does about 8 amps.... you try pulling more than 8 amps it shuts off. This will only occur if trying to fire at 30 watts with a less than .5ohm coil. In which case it will either not fire or it will max out at what ever watts matches 8amps. Idk max volts output of the mod so I'm nor sure highest ohm to get the 30watts... but i guess it to be around 3ohms or so.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Ok, kinda answers my question but not really. I know the higher the watts the quicker the coil will burn out. That's sorta more around what I'm looking to find out.
It's a regulated mod. I don't wanna kill the coils too fast or blow them out, so I want to know what should be a "safe zone" on the watts with a 1.8ohm coil to not blow out and let them last a while, yet still get a decent vape.
Also, if it matters, I'm a DL vaper. Found that best for me so I don't choke on it.

 

[gbalkam]

Never worry about how many watts your mod WILL do. That is only important when building larger coils. Start at a very low setting.. say 20W and work your way up to where you enjoy the vapor you get. There is no "safe zone" to avoid burning coils, so start low every time. As for safe zone related to mod safety, you have a regulated mod, no need to worry. Just keep your batteries in good shape, and replace or rewrap if they get dinged or torn.
Vaping a bit low makes your coils last longer, but enjoying the vape is more important. Worse case.. you get a rebuildable and a spool of wire and some cotton. Never need worry about a coil again. lol.. unless you run out of wire/cotton. 10ft wire = 18 to 22 coils.

 

[derpenherts]

Never worry about how many watts your mod WILL do. That is only important when building larger coils. Start at a very low setting.. say 20W and work your way up to where you enjoy the vapor you get. There is no "safe zone" to avoid burning coils, so start low every time. As for safe zone related to mod safety, you have a regulated mod, no need to worry. Just keep your batteries in good shape, and replace or rewrap if they get dinged or torn.
Vaping a bit low makes your coils last longer, but enjoying the vape is more important. Worse case.. you get a rebuildable and a spool of wire and some cotton. Never need worry about a coil again. lol.. unless you run out of wire/cotton. 10ft wire = 18 to 22 coils.

Man, haven't spun a coil in forever. The old drip kit I used to use (see way back when above) was such a pain to set the coils into XD. Was just easier to buy a new drip mod. Then I moved to tanks. Then I got back on the Newports. Think I'll just play with what I got for now and move up when I get the income to support it. The simple mod will do for now. Currently hitting the 1.9ohm at 18w and it's a little better, but tried it at 20w and tasted burnt to hell. My battery is only 30w, though I'll most likely get a bigger one sometime in the near future...birthday maybe if I can squeeze it out of my dad lmao.
My Pop has a 90w battery and I some funky tanks. Think he's using a Nautilus now or something. Man I loved the hits at 60w with his kit. Such vape, many choke but damn did it taste good. Picked up a bottle of his Beard Chocolate Tobacco as well. Think when I clean my tank I'll drop some of that in next.

 

[derpenherts]

Never worry about how many watts your mod WILL do. That is only important when building larger coils. Start at a very low setting.. say 20W and work your way up to where you enjoy the vapor you get. There is no "safe zone" to avoid burning coils, so start low every time. As for safe zone related to mod safety, you have a regulated mod, no need to worry. Just keep your batteries in good shape, and replace or rewrap if they get dinged or torn.
Vaping a bit low makes your coils last longer, but enjoying the vape is more important. Worse case.. you get a rebuildable and a spool of wire and some cotton. Never need worry about a coil again. lol.. unless you run out of wire/cotton. 10ft wire = 18 to 22 coils.

So I did as my username suggested...I derped. Apparently I can't read because the new burner I got isn't 1.8ohms, it's 1.6ohms.
After failing to clean the old burner (turns out it was more worn than I thought) I couldn't hit above 7w without burn. Goes without saying, don't trust everything you see on YT.
Anyway the new burner is rated 1.6ohms/3.0-4.2v. Currently i have it jacked up to 21w/5.7v and the taste seems like the burner can take a few more steps. Back to my original question, is the 70vg fluid gonna kill my coil alot faster, since it's so thick and requires the high voltage to even get the taste out, since the box says it's only rated for 4.2v max?

 

[Neunerball]

So I did as my username suggested...I derped. Apparently I can't read because the new burner I got isn't 1.8ohms, it's 1.6ohms.
After failing to clean the old burner (turns out it was more worn than I thought) I couldn't hit above 7w without burn. Goes without saying, don't trust everything you see on YT.
Anyway the new burner is rated 1.6ohms/3.0-4.2v. Currently i have it jacked up to 21w/5.7v and the taste seems like the burner can take a few more steps. Back to my original question, is the 70vg fluid gonna kill my coil alot faster, since it's so thick and requires the high voltage to even get the taste out, since the box says it's only rated for 4.2v max?

New coils need a "break in". At first you'll experience a metal flavor, which will disappear after a short period.
The VG level usually doesn't matter much. In other words, it doesn't kill the coil quicker. The only problem, that might occur with high VG eJuice (usually above 80 VG) is, the pre made coil might not be able to wick the eJuice properly, thus resulting in dry hits (kind of a burnt/toasted flavor), when taking long drags quickly.
However, usually a dark/sweet eJuice will gunk up (killing) a coil faster.
In order to find the "sweet spot" of the eJuice you are using, you have to start at a low wattage/voltage. I usually increment the wattage by 2.5 W step by step, until I get the most vapor, and flavor. If you start getting just a hint of a burnt flavor, step it down to the previous wattage. That should do the trick.

 

[gbalkam]

So I did as my username suggested...I derped. Apparently I can't read because the new burner I got isn't 1.8ohms, it's 1.6ohms.
After failing to clean the old burner (turns out it was more worn than I thought) I couldn't hit above 7w without burn. Goes without saying, don't trust everything you see on YT.
Anyway the new burner is rated 1.6ohms/3.0-4.2v. Currently i have it jacked up to 21w/5.7v and the taste seems like the burner can take a few more steps. Back to my original question, is the 70vg fluid gonna kill my coil alot faster, since it's so thick and requires the high voltage to even get the taste out, since the box says it's only rated for 4.2v max?

It is actually the sweetness of your juice that determines how fast your coil gunks up. Some say with a set up like yours, 40/60 or 50/50 give better flavor. Again, start at your lowest wattage and work upwards. Also make sure you prime your new coils before firing them. Aside from that, there is only so much you can do on factory made coils.

 

[derpenherts]

It is actually the sweetness of your juice that determines how fast your coil gunks up. Some say with a set up like yours, 40/60 or 50/50 give better flavor. Again, start at your lowest wattage and work upwards. Also make sure you prime your new coils before firing them. Aside from that, there is only so much you can do on factory made coils.

Well I have a second tank from my Pop, a Joytech Delta II with a .5ohm burner. Only got the one coil that was in it. Its quite worn, but from what I understand sub-ohm coils do better with sweet juices because they can take the heat? Guess I'm gonna be looking for sub coils my next trip to the shop.
In any case, I've got 5 of the Aspire coils. So long as I don't chain too hard they should last me. Hoping to get at least a week or so out of them. Gonna take some playing around to get a feel for how theyll perform to get an optimal length of time from them.
Thanks for the info!

 

[Neunerball]

Well I have a second tank from my Pop, a Joytech Delta II with a .5ohm burner. Only got the one coil that was in it. Its quite worn, but from what I understand sub-ohm coils do better with sweet juices because they can take the heat? Guess I'm gonna be looking for sub coils my next trip to the shop.
In any case, I've got 5 of the Aspire coils. So long as I don't chain too hard they should last me. Hoping to get at least a week or so out of them. Gonna take some playing around to get a feel for how theyll perform to get an optimal length of time from them.
Thanks for the info!

Pre made Sub Ohm coils, or not, the main problem is not the coil(s) itself, but rather the wicking material getting charred.
As previously mentioned, dark, and/or sweet eJuice will gunk up the coil(s) faster. Depending on the eJuice, quality of the coil(s), and how often you are vaping during the day, those pre made coils can last between 2 - 14 days.
In the "old days", I used to rebuild my pre made coils, in order to safe some money. It also helped, learning how to build my own coil(s).

 

[skt239]

I like the term "burner". I say we start using that instead of coil.

 

[derpenherts]

Pre made Sub Ohm coils, or not, the main problem is not the coil(s) itself, but rather the wicking material getting charred.
As previously mentioned, dark, and/or sweet eJuice will gunk up the coil(s) faster. Depending on the eJuice, quality of the coil(s), and how often you are vaping during the day, those pre made coils can last between 2 - 14 days.
In the "old days", I used to rebuild my pre made coils, in order to safe some money. It also helped, learning how to build my own coil(s).

Well I'll have to report back when it starts to get gunked then on how long it lasts me. Either tank should last me a bit, I go between them. When one runs low I'll refill it and let it sit for a while and vape the other. I like the vapor from the sub tank better than my 1.6 on the Aspire. Guess I could get sub burners for the Aspire as well.
I'm not sure if Menthol would be considered "sweet". I prefer thicker, high VG, flavorful fluids. Any tips on preventing buildup?

 

[derpenherts]

I like the term "burner". I say we start using that instead of coil.

Idky I use burner over coil. I prefer it over coil for some reason. Coil makes me think if the old drip kits I used before. The coil in these new gadgets are more set into the metal shroud, kinda reminds me of an acetylene tank without the flame. There's a technicality to the term either way I guess XD.

 

[derpenherts]

Here's the kit I've been using, if anybody was interested

 

[Neunerball]

Well I'll have to report back when it starts to get gunked then on how long it lasts me. Either tank should last me a bit, I go between them. When one runs low I'll refill it and let it sit for a while and vape the other. I like the vapor from the sub tank better than my 1.6 on the Aspire. Guess I could get sub burners for the Aspire as well.
I'm not sure if Menthol would be considered "sweet". I prefer thicker, high VG, flavorful fluids. Any tips on preventing buildup?

I don't know what kind of coils are available for the Aspire you're using. Pure Menthol flavor in general, shouldn't be considered sweet. However, it depends on the eJuice you're using. I make my own eJuice, mainly 90 VG, 10 PG, thus giving me control of the eJuice. However, I also use RTAs, and RDAs, thus having control of the coil(s), and wicking material. Therefore, I can change the wicks, after doing a dry burn, in order to clean the coil(s). IMHO, there's no specific way of preventing "buildup", besides avoiding dark/sweet eJuice.

 

[derpenherts]

I don't know what kind of coils are available for the Aspire you're using. Pure Menthol flavor in general, shouldn't be considered sweet. However, it depends on the eJuice you're using. I make my own eJuice, mainly 90 VG, 10 PG, thus giving me control of the eJuice. However, I also use RTAs, and RDAs, thus having control of the coil(s), and wicking material. Therefore, I can change the wicks, after doing a dry burn, in order to clean the coil(s). IMHO, there's no specific way of preventing "buildup", besides avoiding dark/sweet eJuice.

Well all the juices I currently have are darkish. Guess I could dilute it a little bit or switch up when I run out. I'm adventurous, so I'll likely try all kinds of juices. Down the line I'll check out buildables. The shops around handle all matter of kits, so shouldn't be hard to get started. I'll look into it, thanks

 

[Neunerball]

Well all the juices I currently have are darkish. Guess I could dilute it a little bit or switch up when I run out. I'm adventurous, so I'll likely try all kinds of juices. Down the line I'll check out buildables. The shops around handle all matter of kits, so shouldn't be hard to get started. I'll look into it, thanks

There are plenty of "How to" videos on YouTube regarding building your coil(s). Shortly after I started vaping, I learned to rebuild my coils for the Kanger clearomizer I was using in those days.

 

[HondaDavidson]

I suggest if coil life is an issue..... get a Rebuildable atty..... coils will last long 3nough for you to get board with a build before burning it out....your more likely to damage a coil rewicking than for it to fail. Note you are NOT burning out coils NOW.... you are only burning out the wick. $5 worth if wire and a bag of cotton balls will do about 100 coils from the wire and have most of the bag of cotton left... even if you rewick several times a week.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[champton]

Always start low. Going high may give you what I like to call Satan throat assaults. Basically, it will feel like you took a big drink of Napalm and swallowed a match. It's not fun, and certainly doesn't feel too good. That's what put my best friend off vaping for a bit until he figured everything out.

I'm actually quite shocked people are suggesting using RDAs. That's well and good if your mod is regulated, but if it isn't and you build too low... let's just say I hope you've got good insurance and it's up to date because you're gonna need it. That's why I will NEVER recommend an RDA to a beginner. Don't get me wrong, RDAs are quite good and save you a ton of money on coils, juice, etc., but it's not worth hurting yourself over.

Fortunately, coil building is extremely easy to get right, so if you want to go that route, get yourself some "vaping experience" and read up on Ohm's Law, and you should be fine. Start here:

https://vaping.com/blog/guides/ohms-law-a-brief-yet-complete-guide-to-ohms-and-vaping/

 

[derpenherts]

Always start low. Going high may give you what I like to call Satan throat assaults. Basically, it will feel like you took a big drink of Napalm and swallowed a match. It's not fun, and certainly doesn't feel too good. That's what put my best friend off vaping for a bit until he figured everything out.

I'm actually quite shocked people are suggesting using RDAs. That's well and good if your mod is regulated, but if it isn't and you build too low... let's just say I hope you've got good insurance and it's up to date because you're gonna need it. That's why I will NEVER recommend an RDA to a beginner. Don't get me wrong, RDAs are quite good and save you a ton of money on coils, juice, etc., but it's not worth hurting yourself over.

Fortunately, coil building is extremely easy to get right, so if you want to go that route, get yourself some "vaping experience" and read up on Ohm's Law, and you should be fine. Start here:

https://vaping.com/blog/guides/ohms-law-a-brief-yet-complete-guide-to-ohms-and-vaping/

Well I don't have an RDA, but my Joyetech Delta II is an RBA I think? As I understand, the RDA is a dripping atty whereas the RBA is just a simple recoilable burner? If that's the case, I'm already halfway there on the RBA and should be able to just get some cotton and wire right?

Edit: upon review, no I don't have an RBA coil. But by a few reviews I looked at an RBA might be the way to go for this system. Looks super easy to replace coils when the time comes and will likely save alot of money and hassle.

 

[IMFire3605]

First, HOWDY! New to the forum and, as stated, I'm new to manual wattage/voltage vaping. I've used standard stick kits before and I'm familiar with vaping in general, but I've been back on the cancer sticks for quite a while and I'm trying to revert but I'm quite out of the loop with these new fangled contraptions. So here's the scoop:
My Pop gave me his extra kit, already setup and used very lightly so its nearly new. It's an ELeaf iStick 30w battery with an Aspire tank, currently with a 1.9ohm resist burner, which I'm still using as it's not hitting dry or anything yet. They got me a pack of Aspire BVC 1.8ohm burners. Looking at the package, theyre rated for 4.2v max. I'm currently using some Mountain Oak Vapors 18mg Frostbite (I like the bitter, minty menthol taste). It's a high VG liquid and hits pretty nice at about 16w/5.5v. When I first started vaping, like 8 years ago, I was hitting 36mg liquids which some people tell me is nuts XD.
I talked a bit with the guys who sold us the burners and they told me I should be hitting these coils at about 9w. That seemed kinda low, because they told me the high VG liquids should hit better at higher power. From a simple Google search on "1.8 ohm coil wattage" to run through coils based on their ohms, I should be hitting around 5v-6.4v based on a graph I found.
Like I said, I haven't replaced the burner yet so I'm still running off the 1.9ohm burner on the system. It hits really nice at 16w/5.5v as the graph suggested.
My question is, what stat should I be using to get a proper vape with the new burners when I replace it and how long should I expect it to last?

Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Aspire BVC 1.8ohm coils heads (burners) on an iStick30W, assuming it is one of 2 tanks the Aspire Nautilus/Nautilus Mini, or the Atlantis Mini, those coil heads can handle between 8watts lowest to about 20watts maximum, optimal performance in the 12 to 16 watts range gives the longest coil life and best flavor/vapor for a Mouth to Lung inhale style, or voltage wise 3.8v to 6v with optimal output at 4.65v to 5.37v depending on what mode the iStick is in, Variable Wattage or Variable Voltage. There is no one all fits all silver bullet setting for anyone, juices used, devices, flavors of the juices, PG and VG ratio, Nic Strength, and the biggest factor the end users (your) personal preferences.

Analogy to help simplify things, using cars

Variable Voltage (VV) = Chevy Sub-Compact Base Entry model with a manual stick shift transmission
Variable Wattage (VW) = Same Sub-Compact but with the upgraded amenities package, including an automatic transmission and cruise control
Resistance of the Coil (Ohms) = The road you are driving on, higher Ohms = climbing a hill, lower ohms = going down a hill

In VV mode being manually have to adjust to the increase or decrease in ohms on the coils, you have to do the calculations manually and set the Voltage accordingly on your own
In VW mode, the computer in the iStick does all the calculations and adjusts the voltage as needed based on what Watts you have set (speed limit set into the cruise control), it reads the Ohms of the coil multiple times a minute and auto adjusts the voltage accordingly without any other user input, basically set it a forget it.

If 16w/5.5v is ringing your bell and keeping you happy, that is your personal preference and no one should judge you for it if it is working for you, it is right in that sweet spot for those coil heads for a very tried and true and tested multiple years tanks system, especially being a high VG liquid, that 16watts is perfect for it. If the coils are lasting you close to a week to two weeks before burning out, you are right in the zone, if shorter than that, then yes you are running it a bit to hot for the wicking of the coil head to work properly, but they can handle maximum a 30PG/70VG liquid with no problem and get a week out of them easily.

 

[5150sick]

I wouldn't go over 12 to 15 watts with a 1.8ohm coil
But I like to be able to take the biggest vape i can without the coil tasting burnt.

 

[derpenherts]

Aspire BVC 1.8ohm coils heads (burners) on an iStick30W, assuming it is one of 2 tanks the Aspire Nautilus/Nautilus Mini, or the Atlantis Mini, those coil heads can handle between 8watts lowest to about 20watts maximum, optimal performance in the 12 to 16 watts range gives the longest coil life and best flavor/vapor for a Mouth to Lung inhale style, or voltage wise 3.8v to 6v with optimal output at 4.65v to 5.37v depending on what mode the iStick is in, Variable Wattage or Variable Voltage. There is no one all fits all silver bullet setting for anyone, juices used, devices, flavors of the juices, PG and VG ratio, Nic Strength, and the biggest factor the end users (your) personal preferences.

Analogy to help simplify things, using cars

Variable Voltage (VV) = Chevy Sub-Compact Base Entry model with a manual stick shift transmission
Variable Wattage (VW) = Same Sub-Compact but with the upgraded amenities package, including an automatic transmission and cruise control
Resistance of the Coil (Ohms) = The road you are driving on, higher Ohms = climbing a hill, lower ohms = going down a hill

In VV mode being manually have to adjust to the increase or decrease in ohms on the coils, you have to do the calculations manually and set the Voltage accordingly on your own
In VW mode, the computer in the iStick does all the calculations and adjusts the voltage as needed based on what Watts you have set (speed limit set into the cruise control), it reads the Ohms of the coil multiple times a minute and auto adjusts the voltage accordingly without any other user input, basically set it a forget it.

If 16w/5.5v is ringing your bell and keeping you happy, that is your personal preference and no one should judge you for it if it is working for you, it is right in that sweet spot for those coil heads for a very tried and true and tested multiple years tanks system, especially being a high VG liquid, that 16watts is perfect for it. If the coils are lasting you close to a week to two weeks before burning out, you are right in the zone, if shorter than that, then yes you are running it a bit to hot for the wicking of the coil head to work properly, but they can handle maximum a 30PG/70VG liquid with no problem and get a week out of them easily.

Read a lil lower in the thread. I realized they are not 1.8ohms, it's 1.6. but thanks for the details! I'm using it around 16w, higher than they specify but it works great for flavor and vape.

 

[derpenherts]

I wouldn't go over 12 to 15 watts with a 1.8ohm coil
But I like to be able to take the biggest vape i can without the coil tasting burnt.

Read above

 

[5150sick]

16 watts is great setting for a 1.6 ohm coil

 

[5150sick]

Well all the juices I currently have are darkish. Guess I could dilute it a little bit or switch up when I run out. I'm adventurous, so I'll likely try all kinds of juices. Down the line I'll check out buildables. The shops around handle all matter of kits, so shouldn't be hard to get started. I'll look into it, thanks

Some juices become dark as they get older.
But some flavors are almost always dark like tobacco flavor or coffee flavor.
When you do decide to buy a new eliquid you could try to find one that is clear to slightly yellowish and it should stay clear longer.

Dark eliquid can wear coils out much faster then clear liquid.

 

[derpenherts]

Some juices become dark as they get older.
But some flavors are almost always dark like tobacco flavor or coffee flavor.
When you do decide to buy a new eliquid you could try to find one that is clear to slightly yellowish and it should stay clear longer.

Dark eliquid can wear coils out much faster then clear liquid.

All the Mountain Oak Vapors liquids I've seen are dark, or at least the ones I tried at the vape bar were. MOV has some awesome flavors! I got a blueberry one that's just...mmm.
I'm more into the flavorful with aftertaste kind of liquids. I've only really ever been into Totally Wicked and the recent MOV, both brands stocked with primarily dark, high VG fluids. Any suggestions on some lighter brands or flavors?

 

[champton]

Well I don't have an RDA, but my Joyetech Delta II is an RBA I think?View attachment 99133 View attachment 99134 As I understand, the RDA is a dripping atty whereas the RBA is just a simple recoilable burner? If that's the case, I'm already halfway there on the RBA and should be able to just get some cotton and wire right?

Edit: upon review, no I don't have an RBA coil. But by a few reviews I looked at an RBA might be the way to go for this system. Looks super easy to replace coils when the time comes and will likely save alot of money and hassle.

Don't know much about RBAs, but looking at those pics reminds me of my old Kangertech Subtank Mini - it had a small canister that looked very much like that where you put the coils. Those were hard for me to figure out because the coils had to be so small. As far as I understand it though, it's just like building on a dripper. Just get yourself some wire and some cotton. However, one difference is this: I think I remember something about having to install the cotton a specific way because the coils would burn through the cotton if it was just threaded through the coil the way you would do an RDA. Search Youtube, maybe there's a video on there that'll help you.

EDIT: Okay, I was thinking wrong. The only thing you really have to worry about is that you need to cover the vent holes in the side of your canister so that your juice doesn't come spilling out of them. If yours is anything like my Subtank, this is how you'll be setting up your coil.

 

[gbalkam]

First, HOWDY! New to the forum and, as stated, I'm new to manual wattage/voltage vaping. I've used standard stick kits before and I'm familiar with vaping in general, but I've been back on the cancer sticks for quite a while and I'm trying to revert but I'm quite out of the loop with these new fangled contraptions. So here's the scoop:
My Pop gave me his extra kit, already setup and used very lightly so its nearly new. It's an ELeaf iStick 30w battery with an Aspire tank, currently with a 1.9ohm resist burner, which I'm still using as it's not hitting dry or anything yet. They got me a pack of Aspire BVC 1.8ohm burners. Looking at the package, theyre rated for 4.2v max. I'm currently using some Mountain Oak Vapors 18mg Frostbite (I like the bitter, minty menthol taste). It's a high VG liquid and hits pretty nice at about 16w/5.5v. When I first started vaping, like 8 years ago, I was hitting 36mg liquids which some people tell me is nuts XD.
I talked a bit with the guys who sold us the burners and they told me I should be hitting these coils at about 9w. That seemed kinda low, because they told me the high VG liquids should hit better at higher power. From a simple Google search on "1.8 ohm coil wattage" to run through coils based on their ohms, I should be hitting around 5v-6.4v based on a graph I found.
Like I said, I haven't replaced the burner yet so I'm still running off the 1.9ohm burner on the system. It hits really nice at 16w/5.5v as the graph suggested.
My question is, what stat should I be using to get a proper vape with the new burners when I replace it and how long should I expect it to last?

Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Seems to me you are over complicating the issue. ALWAYS start at low wattage and dial up until you get the vape you like. Can't get much simpler than that. Using this method you don't cook your coils. Especially with "new burners". Proper vape.. is where you like it best. What is proper for me will be different from what is proper for you.

By the way... vape the flavors you like. If you have to buy coils a bit more often, so be it. Its still cheaper than smoking.

Also as suggested, you can go with something like a kanger top (bottom) tank mini. (one fills from the top, one fills from the bottom.. aside from that they are identical). The kit comes with an RBA mini (you can get extras from fasttech.. (auth or clone). They will handle upto about 3.0 mm id core coil. Usually, 2.25mm id is fine (which btw, is exactly the diameter of the little screwdriver they include in your kit)

I did not watch the video, but those RBA mini coils seem to like the "bunny ears" wicking method. Wick the coil, point the ends up, slide down the outer casing, trim wick at top of casing, poke down to cover the juice holes. Replace coil cap. Prime, fill and vape. Main thing is... once you prime the coil, do not try to make adjustments to the wick. Do your adjusting before wetting the wick.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Always start low. Going high may give you what I like to call Satan throat assaults. Basically, it will feel like you took a big drink of Napalm and swallowed a match. It's not fun, and certainly doesn't feel too good. That's what put my best friend off vaping for a bit until he figured everything out.

I'm actually quite shocked people are suggesting using RDAs. That's well and good if your mod is regulated, but if it isn't and you build too low... let's just say I hope you've got good insurance and it's up to date because you're gonna need it. That's why I will NEVER recommend an RDA to a beginner. Don't get me wrong, RDAs are quite good and save you a ton of money on coils, juice, etc., but it's not worth hurting yourself over.

Fortunately, coil building is extremely easy to get right, so if you want to go that route, get yourself some "vaping experience" and read up on Ohm's Law, and you should be fine. Start here:

https://vaping.com/blog/guides/ohms-law-a-brief-yet-complete-guide-to-ohms-and-vaping/

Actually. If the mod is unregulated an RDA is Required..... as the coil is the only way you have of adjusting fir power and vapor generation.

You don't Need an RDA for a regulated mod because you can adjust power to match the coil... whatever coil you choose.

If one is ignorant enough to suck on a pipe bomb without practicing basic electrical and vaping safety....... applies to regulated and unregulated equally. One deserves their Darwinian Honors.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[gbalkam]

Actually. If the mod is unregulated an RDA is Required..... as the coil is the only way you have of adjusting fir power and vapor generation.

You don't Need an RDA for a regulated mod because you can adjust power to match the coil... whatever coil you choose.

If one is ignorant enough to suck on a pipe bomb without practicing basic electrical and vaping safety....... applies to regulated and unregulated equally. One deserves their Darwinian Honors.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

OP already stated "It's an ELeaf iStick 30w battery with an Aspire tank" which is a regulated mod. The coil resistance actually has no bearing whatsoever. Watts are the amount of power available to heat the coil. Example. 26ga kanthal @1.60 ohm (aprox) = 13 wraps. (heavy coil and will not work at 30w) vs 30ga kanthal @ 1.6 ohm (aprox) = 6 wraps and will work just fine on 30w mod. Coil resistance is the same, but build is different.

Many AIO starter kits have a tank atomizer, but use specific resistance coils. Basically, you can't adjust anything. Manufacturer does all the adjusting for you in the factory. As long as your RTA has a protruding positive pin that protrudes far enough to prevent a hard short, an RTA is fine. This also applies to RDAs.

RBAs are slightly diffferent. They are basically a premade coil that you can replace the coil and wick in. (designed to do that vs mickey mousing a factory made coil)

Now i totally agree, when using a mechanical mod, you need to know all this information before you even fire it. I won't go into much more than that regarding mechanicals, since those are advanced mods and this is a new user thread.

 

[gbalkam]

Always start low. Going high may give you what I like to call Satan throat assaults. Basically, it will feel like you took a big drink of Napalm and swallowed a match. It's not fun, and certainly doesn't feel too good. That's what put my best friend off vaping for a bit until he figured everything out.

I'm actually quite shocked people are suggesting using RDAs. That's well and good if your mod is regulated, but if it isn't and you build too low... let's just say I hope you've got good insurance and it's up to date because you're gonna need it. That's why I will NEVER recommend an RDA to a beginner. Don't get me wrong, RDAs are quite good and save you a ton of money on coils, juice, etc., but it's not worth hurting yourself over.

Fortunately, coil building is extremely easy to get right, so if you want to go that route, get yourself some "vaping experience" and read up on Ohm's Law, and you should be fine. Start here:

https://vaping.com/blog/guides/ohms-law-a-brief-yet-complete-guide-to-ohms-and-vaping/

Half agree.. But is isn't the RDA it is the difference between a regulated and a mechanical mod. With an RDA or RTA your main concern, probably more important than resistance, is the length of the 510 positive pin in the atomizer. A to short pin, be it on rda or rta can cause a hard short and thermal runaway. AFTER you determine your pin is safe, then building to a safe resistance is top priority. Basically, if the pin is to short, your coil resistance will never come into play.
Hybrid mechanical mods are quite a bit safer than non-hybrid, since they have an insulated 510 positive that actually prevents hard shorts if the atomizer pin is to short. The difference is.. hybrid.. the atomizer pin set on top of a 510 pin on top of the mod, non-hybrid the atomizer pin sets directly on top of the battery... so if that pin is to short, the negative also sits on the positive pin and that is bad juju mon. Its a little advanced here, but we don't want to scare newbies unless we need to scare them for their own good. (like that guy wanting to vape a mech at 0.05 ohm and didn't even know what battery he had.) Famous last words.. "But I saw this guy on youtube doing it....."

 

[derpenherts]

Half agree.. But is isn't the RDA it is the difference between a regulated and a mechanical mod. With an RDA or RTA your main concern, probably more important than resistance, is the length of the 510 positive pin in the atomizer. A to short pin, be it on rda or rta can cause a hard short and thermal runaway. AFTER you determine your pin is safe, then building to a safe resistance is top priority. Basically, if the pin is to short, your coil resistance will never come into play.
Hybrid mechanical mods are quite a bit safer than non-hybrid, since they have an insulated 510 positive that actually prevents hard shorts if the atomizer pin is to short. The difference is.. hybrid.. the atomizer pin set on top of a 510 pin on top of the mod, non-hybrid the atomizer pin sets directly on top of the battery... so if that pin is to short, the negative also sits on the positive pin and that is bad juju mon. Its a little advanced here, but we don't want to scare newbies unless we need to scare them for their own good. (like that guy wanting to vape a mech at 0.05 ohm and didn't even know what battery he had.) Famous last words.. "But I saw this guy on youtube doing it....."

For now I'll be sticking with the premade coils as it's easiest and accessible atm. I am familiar with wrapping my own coils and an RBA is acceptable with the iStick, especially since I already have the Delta II tank. Battery is already rated safe at .5ohm with that tank. 30w is pretty low for it I'm sure, but it actually hits nice at 24-26w where I have it set currently. Im not sure an RDA would play too nicely with it. Like previously mentioned, its where I prefer the taste and vape. I'll need a bigger batt down the road, likely for my birthday like I said above. Since I'm only just back on the vape-train, it's been a little rough getting used to it again.
Also think I'm gonna have to lower the mg's I'm vaping or choose a different brand or VG/PG level. 18mg/70VG I'm using with Mountain Oaks is nice but its a little much for the mod I have it seems. I keep getting harsh vapes off it with the Aspire tank and I don't have any more coils for the Delta just yet. I prefer the Delta hits, it's a bit smoother and I can take longer draws, about 4.5 seconds, and I don't feel the need to hit it as often. The Aspire with the same fluids I can only hit about 2 seconds and I'm chain vaping it, thinking if I get the fluid hot enough it'll taste better and not destroy my throat. It does, but I don't wanna chain it so much.
I'm not big on the whole "cause I saw someone else do it" thing. Why I like forums and joined just after getting my kit from Pop. Always want second or third opinions on technical stuff before I jump in.

 

[derpenherts]

Don't know much about RBAs, but looking at those pics reminds me of my old Kangertech Subtank Mini - it had a small canister that looked very much like that where you put the coils. Those were hard for me to figure out because the coils had to be so small. As far as I understand it though, it's just like building on a dripper. Just get yourself some wire and some cotton. However, one difference is this: I think I remember something about having to install the cotton a specific way because the coils would burn through the cotton if it was just threaded through the coil the way you would do an RDA. Search Youtube, maybe there's a video on there that'll help you.

EDIT: Okay, I was thinking wrong. The only thing you really have to worry about is that you need to cover the vent holes in the side of your canister so that your juice doesn't come spilling out of them. If yours is anything like my Subtank, this is how you'll be setting up your coil.

The Delta II tank I got isn't RDA or RBA at the moment. It's just a simple manufactured burner, nothing special. The RBA kit is a separate purchase and I'll be getting one at some point. I used to prefer the old wick'd tank attys and building coils wasn't a big deal. Will have to get back into the swing of it when I get the kit.

 

[gbalkam]

For now I'll be sticking with the premade coils as it's easiest and accessible atm. I am familiar with wrapping my own coils and an RBA is acceptable with the iStick, especially since I already have the Delta II tank. Battery is already rated safe at .5ohm with that tank. 30w is pretty low for it I'm sure, but it actually hits nice at 24-26w where I have it set currently. Im not sure an RDA would play too nicely with it. Like previously mentioned, its where I prefer the taste and vape. I'll need a bigger batt down the road, likely for my birthday like I said above. Since I'm only just back on the vape-train, it's been a little rough getting used to it again.
Also think I'm gonna have to lower the mg's I'm vaping or choose a different brand or VG/PG level. 18mg/70VG I'm using with Mountain Oaks is nice but its a little much for the mod I have it seems. I keep getting harsh vapes off it with the Aspire tank and I don't have any more coils for the Delta just yet. I prefer the Delta hits, it's a bit smoother and I can take longer draws, about 4.5 seconds, and I don't feel the need to hit it as often. The Aspire with the same fluids I can only hit about 2 seconds and I'm chain vaping it, thinking if I get the fluid hot enough it'll taste better and not destroy my throat. It does, but I don't wanna chain it so much.
I'm not big on the whole "cause I saw someone else do it" thing. Why I like forums and joined just after getting my kit from Pop. Always want second or third opinions on technical stuff before I jump in.

What you are going to notice is that different tanks have different tastes at different watts. Even with an RDA for example. A Tsunami tastes different than a twisted messes, and both taste different than a mutationX. Shape of the atomizer, how tall, how wide, coil placement and airflow, size of the drip tip.. all play a role in the flavor. Basically... you will set each atomizer up according to your taste, and probably settle for 1 or 3 favorites.
An RDA build at 30w or lower is totally possible, and gives you a couple options for flavor. Example.. a 28g kanthal core with 32 (or higher) wrap to make a single core clapton. Even dual coils would run at 30w. Trick is.. make lighter coils than you would if you were using high watts.

 

[derpenherts]

What you are going to notice is that different tanks have different tastes at different watts. Even with an RDA for example. A Tsunami tastes different than a twisted messes, and both taste different than a mutationX. Shape of the atomizer, how tall, how wide, coil placement and airflow, size of the drip tip.. all play a role in the flavor. Basically... you will set each atomizer up according to your taste, and probably settle for 1 or 3 favorites.
An RDA build at 30w or lower is totally possible, and gives you a couple options for flavor. Example.. a 28g kanthal core with 32 (or higher) wrap to make a single core clapton. Even dual coils would run at 30w. Trick is.. make lighter coils than you would if you were using high watts.

Well like I said, I don't think ill go RDA anytime soon. I do miss how the old direct-drip system I had worked, but it got pretty toasty to hold after only a few vapes. I'll be doing RBA with thin gauge for sure and fine cotton. I like my coils tight. Probably why I used to be wrapping them every couple of days or so lol. When I get my bigger batt I'll be tuning watts at high. Pop ran his at 60 with chocolate tobacco and I enjoyed it alot. He was running a regulated sub-ohm tank, I'll have to get the info out of him.
I get bored with the same flavors over and over. I love the Heavenly Chocolate from MOV, the Blueberry menthol is great too. The Frostbite i got is really harsh, but I'll blow that if I'm feeling like I need a fresh minty taste. Looking to go some sweet or maybe berry tastes. Straight tobacco flavors give me a headache.
And you're going a lil over my head at the end there. If you wanna scare off a newbie (which I'm not, I'm just reinstated) that's how you'll do it

 

[gbalkam]

Well like I said, I don't think ill go RDA anytime soon. I do miss how the old direct-drip system I had worked, but it got pretty toasty to hold after only a few vapes. I'll be doing RBA with thin gauge for sure and fine cotton. I like my coils tight. Probably why I used to be wrapping them every couple of days or so lol. When I get my bigger batt I'll be tuning watts at high. Pop ran his at 60 with chocolate tobacco and I enjoyed it alot. He was running a regulated sub-ohm tank, I'll have to get the info out of him.
I get bored with the same flavors over and over. I love the Heavenly Chocolate from MOV, the Blueberry menthol is great too. The Frostbite i got is really harsh, but I'll blow that if I'm feeling like I need a fresh minty taste. Looking to go some sweet or maybe berry tastes. Straight tobacco flavors give me a headache.
And you're going a lil over my head at the end there. If you wanna scare off a newbie (which I'm not, I'm just reinstated) that's how you'll do it

It is meant to scare newbies a little. To many want to rush right into mechanical mods. Really there is no good reason to use a mech. Regulated perform better by far. The bits about the 510 pin are to give a heads up, not every atomizer is the same and some can cause problems. I was actually talking about actual newbies, just starting out. Pretty sure you can safely build a coil and mount it from your previous posts. (by the way...if your RDA was getting warm, your coil was to close to the chamber. I noticed the same thing) It's something I still do sometimes, when the coil is just a tiny bit to large. I quit tobacco flavor after my first 15ml of juice. Figured I was quitting smoking, the tobacco flavor did not taste like cigarette smoke, so I stopped using it. But that's just me. Never liked the taste to begin with although some do.
LOL fun.. is having a 5-16w vape pen mod and wanting to use an rba.. and building coils to run below 16w. (yes, I did it..lol)

 

[HondaDavidson]

Fwiw... there is confusion above....

RBA = rebuilable atomizer. RDA, RTA and RDTA are all RBAs......

RDA = rebuilable DRIPPING atomizer
RTA = rebuildable TANK atomizer
RDTA = rebuilable DRIPPING TANK atomizer.....

Note the repetitive theme.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[derpenherts]

Fwiw... there is confusion above....

RBA = rebuilable atomizer. RDA, RTA and RDTA are all RBAs......

RDA = rebuilable DRIPPING atomizer
RTA = rebuildable TANK atomizer
RDTA = rebuilable DRIPPING TANK atomizer.....

Note the repetitive theme.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I wasn't confused in the slightest, but good to note for the newbies. Thanks