Nickel sausage coil build

[Giraut]

Here's is my attempt at exploiting Ni200 wire with an ordinary mod. This is a single 35-wrap, 28-gauge nickel wire coil, wrapped around 3mm silica rope, and it works great! At 30W, it produces a ton of vapor and flavor.

I wanted to use 30-gauge nickel wire to raise the resistance a bit, but I realized I've been diddled by the seller, who sold me 30-gauge kanthal insteal. I'm not happy... Still, 28-gauge works too.

In terms of wire surface exposed to the juice, this is equivalent to a quad coil build -- or even more. But in terms of resistance, it's more comparable to a single coil kanthal build. All that wire works well to dissipate a lot of power into the juice without cooking it.

The only problem is, you need a lot of real-estate on the deck to avoid shorts. That Igo W4 I used to experiment with it wasn't really adequate, but I didn't have the heart to Dremel off the second ground post on the right, to make room for the coil. I've had to squash the coil so much that, bending the coil along the curve of the deck wall, I suspect a few wraps shorted, because the resistance should be .55 to .60 ohms, not .45. Oh well. It works...

Check it out:

]

 

[vaperature]

So forgive my ignorance, but you're able to do so many wraps and still come out with low resistance just because it's nickel?

 

[Giraut]

Yep. Nickel wire is commonly sold as "no resistance wire", only it does have resistance, and if you wrap enough of it, it's usable to vape. That wire is used as resistance wire by the DNA40 board in temperature control mode.

 

[vaperature]

Yep. Nickel wire is commonly sold as "no resistance wire", only it does have resistance, and if you wrap enough of it, it's usable to vape. That wire is used as resistance wire by the DNA40 board in temperature control mode.

Thanks. I learned my new thing for the day.

 

[Sparks]

Here's is my attempt at exploiting Ni200 wire with an ordinary mod. This is a single 35-wrap, 28-gauge nickel wire coil, wrapped around 3mm silica rope, and it works great! At 30W, it produces a ton of vapor and flavor.

I wanted to use 30-gauge nickel wire to raise the resistance a bit, but I realized I've been diddled by the seller, who sold me 30-gauge kanthal insteal. I'm not happy... Still, 28-gauge works too.

In terms of wire surface exposed to the juice, this is equivalent to a quad coil build -- or even more. But in terms of resistance, it's more comparable to a single coil kanthal build. All that wire works well to dissipate a lot of power into the juice without cooking it.

The only problem is, you need a lot of real-estate on the deck to avoid shorts. That Igo W4 I used to experiment with it wasn't really adequate, but I didn't have the heart to Dremel off the second ground post on the right, to make room for the coil. I've had to squash the coil so much that, bending the coil along the curve of the deck wall, I suspect a few wraps shorted, because the resistance should be .55 to .60 ohms, not .45. Oh well. It works...

Check it out:

]

That is very cool, I've got the Flask with the DNA40 board and have been dragging my feet with trying out the temp control, but now..... it's on..LOL
Hell of a sausage pal, I love it, how hot can you go with that build?
That's some serious surface area and should probably be able to handle a higher temp I'd think, depending how the wick holds up I suppose, but really curious to know what temperature your running as I'd like to try a few builds and this being one for sure, can't find a lot of NI200 builds, a couple of the tube and a few here, thinking maybe a 26650 atty with a sausage dual..LOL

 

[Giraut]

This is not a temp control build: it's a regular VW build, but with Ni200 wire The reason it's so long is to bring up the resistance for ordinary VW mods. The idea was to try the material to make a very long coil without using very thick kanthal. And it works quite well really...

My DNA40 builds are completely unimpressive: 12 non-touching wraps of 28-gauge Ni200 wire over a 2.5mm mandrel (0.2 ohms). Just like in the videos really... It works great, so I didn't try nothing else.

 

[dre]

12 wraps should be around .14 not .2 maybe you got a lose connection hence the unimpressive vape.

 

[Sparks]

This is not a temp control build: it's a regular VW build, but with Ni200 wire The reason it's so long is to bring up the resistance for ordinary VW mods. The idea was to try the material to make a very long coil without using very thick kanthal. And it works quite well really...

My DNA40 builds are completely unimpressive: 12 non-touching wraps of 28-gauge Ni200 wire over a 2.5mm mandrel (0.2 ohms). Just like in the videos really... It works great, so I didn't try nothing else.

Actually my friend your build in my mind is quit impressive frankly.
NI200 is tricky stuff to be messing with and that's one reason I haven't tried my temp control feature but you sure did prove one thing that I've read isn't possible and that's trying to use NI200 like it were Kanthal,
Every thing I've read said that what you have just done is NOT possible, WOW amazing my friend, the GIANT sausage is something I've saved the pics of because no one I know would believe me if I told them this was actually possible, seriously, least of all get all that into an atty, but BE careful, as I'm sure you are or you'd probably not be able to post without no fingers or eyeballs, LMAOF, I am really impressed but I'll guarantee you this, I'm not trying that on straight up wattage, NO WAY
If I hadn't seen this with my own eyes I'd have to call BS, LOL Wow.. Vape on brother...!!
By the way I'm not really a sub ohm guy, occasionally I get down to about .8 and that's usually because I missed a wrap and just to lazy to wind up another coil..

 

[Giraut]

12 wraps should be around .14 not .2 maybe you got a lose connection hence the unimpressive vape.

The coil is unimpressive - the vape is far from: it's absolutely superb, and it's been great from day one!

Re the resistance, the connection is super-solid. I've changed coils 3 times already since I got my DNA40 mod, and each time they read between 0.20 and 0.22 ohm, and stay that way. It's so consistent the chip doesn't even realize I've changed the coil, and thinks it's the same one.

It's so uncanny, each time I change coil, I disable temp control and let it sit for a while to measure the true resistance, to make sure the temp control isn't mistaken. But no, after I tighten the post screws, it's between 0.20 and 0.22 ohms.

It may be a little higher than expected, because in reality I use metric nickel wire: it's 0.3 mm in diameter, so it's something between 28 gauge and 29 gauge - a little thinner than 28 gauge. Also, being that the legs are on the same side, technically it's 12.5 wraps. Whatever the reason, I can tell you it most certainly is 0.20 ohms

 

[Giraut]

Actually my friend your build in my mind is quit impressive frankly.
NI200 is tricky stuff to be messing with[...]

Don't listen to those who say nickel wire is tricky, or hard to work with, or that there's a learning curve with it. That's all BS. I think a lot of people who build coils try to make themselves look important and experty when they spew shit like that.

Nickel wire is soft. That's all there is to it. It makes it easier way easier than kanthal to straighten and roll into a coil in fact. Provided you double up the legs, there is zero issue with post connections. It's so easy to work with in fact that it's the reason why I wanted to experiment with nickel wire to replace kanthal in a regular (read non-DNA40) build. You just have to be a little careful not to deform the coil when you install the wick, because obviously it's less stiff, is all. But even if you do deform it, it's fairly easy to push and shove the wraps and straighten up the coil.

 

[dre]

Nickel alone in a non dna 40 is kinda like ghetto heat control since it will jump from .2 to over a .4 while the button is held down

 

[Giraut]

Actually it's more like ghetto pre-heat - at least for mechanical mods and certain "measure once before firing" VW mods (like the eVic): what you want to do is set the power (or calculate the resistance of the coil) for when the coil is nice and hot, and when you fire it from cold, the coil will warm up much faster because of the lower resistance.

The exception to that is VW mods that measure the coil resistance constantly - typically PWM mods, during the "off" phase of the duty cycle: they continuously compensate the drift of a nickel wire coil's resistance as it warms up to deliver the power that the user has set. For mods that do this, nickel and kanthal behave essentially the same way.

 

[manson]

So you're are saying I can put this big weiner in my 26650 Tobh Atty and I'll still retain my face ?

 

[manson]

On a Hades mech mod "authentic clone" that is

 

[Giraut]

Of course, it's just a coil Just pay attention to the resistance when it's cold to stay below the maximum power your mod can put out - or the maximum amps your battery can put out, if you use a mech mod. As the coil warms up, its resistance goes up, so it'll draw less current.

 

[MrScaryZ]

Here's is my attempt at exploiting Ni200 wire with an ordinary mod. This is a single 35-wrap, 28-gauge nickel wire coil, wrapped around 3mm silica rope, and it works great! At 30W, it produces a ton of vapor and flavor.

I wanted to use 30-gauge nickel wire to raise the resistance a bit, but I realized I've been diddled by the seller, who sold me 30-gauge kanthal insteal. I'm not happy... Still, 28-gauge works too.

In terms of wire surface exposed to the juice, this is equivalent to a quad coil build -- or even more. But in terms of resistance, it's more comparable to a single coil kanthal build. All that wire works well to dissipate a lot of power into the juice without cooking it.

The only problem is, you need a lot of real-estate on the deck to avoid shorts. That Igo W4 I used to experiment with it wasn't really adequate, but I didn't have the heart to Dremel off the second ground post on the right, to make room for the coil. I've had to squash the coil so much that, bending the coil along the curve of the deck wall, I suspect a few wraps shorted, because the resistance should be .55 to .60 ohms, not .45. Oh well. It works...

Check it out:

]

wow

 

[manson]

I noticed the leads coming off your smoked sausage are twisted but your coil is a single wrap. Enlighten me please

 

[manson]

Ahhhh now I see, (5 seconds later). It's only your leads that are twisted. Enlighten me please

 

[efektt]

Ahhhh now I see, (5 seconds later). It's only your leads that are twisted. Enlighten me please

I think it is just doubled up. The nickel is super soft and the screws can cut it easily.

 

[manson]

So adding absolutely nothing to the resistance ? How long does it take to heat up ? 10 minutes ? I'm thinkin, I'll twist my whole length of nickle then wrap my wiener. I have a 100 ft of it. Looks like you used a pin inside your wick for stability. Would the ramp up time increase due to a twisted wrap as opposed to a single wrap ? sorry for all the nagging but I'm new to this game. Marlboro red free for 8 months. Not quite sure which habit/hobby is more expensive. but pretty sure I know which one is more healthy.

 

[efektt]

I have no idea if it adds to the res. I dont use nickel ... just read about people doing that and assumes thats what he did. I dont think you want to twist you nickel. It has super low resistance to begin with and twisting it would lower it more. Nickel is ment to be used on temp control devices at low resistance. I think the op is just experimenting.

 

[ConcreteBob]

Just twisting the legs to secure them in the posts without the screws cutting them shouldn't make a difference in resistance. but to be sure you can always cut off the loose ends sticking out afterwards.

 

[Giraut]

Of course it does. Twisted wire is roughly half the resistance of the untwisted wire (be it kanthal or nickel or anything). But in the case of the legs, it's a good thing: you just want the coil to heat up, not the legs. Coil legs are the usual culprits when you have hot spots in a build.

I always double over and twist (then double over and twist once more, oftentimes) the legs of all my coils. They're stronger and less resistive that way.

 

[ConcreteBob]

I meant just the portion in the post holes. But yes, twisted wire, in general, is half the resistance.