Ohms jumping around a bit

[STX]

Hello all, fairly new to building and on a couple of my recent builds the ohms have been jumping around a bit, we'll say by .06 or say upon firing and then going back down again. I have checked this on ohm meter and various regulated mods. Is this normal, am I doing something wrong?

 

[JuicyLucy]

Might wanna try tightening up the screws, jumping ohms usually means the coil isn't secure - let us know how it goes

A small variation is nothing to worry about though, as the coil heats up, the resistance can vary a bit

 

[STX]

Might wanna try tightening up the screws, jumping ohms usually means the coil isn't secure - let us know how it goes

A small variation is nothing to worry about though, as the coil heats up, the resistance can vary a bit

Yeah I tried cranking the screws down quite a bit and no dice, and as I said they aren't changing very much, and they do seem to be rising ever so slightly in conjunction with the coil heating up.

Can I lock in the ohms on the chipset, or does it even matter?

 

[nadalama]

Are the coils stainless? That happens with stainless, ohms fluctuating as the coil heats up. Otherwise, I agree with Lucy. Coil isn't snug enough in the screws. Even if the screws are super tight, if a leg of wire isn't trapped well, it can cause this as it moves around a little. The only other things I can think of is there might be a tiny piece of wire loose in the atty somewhere, or a leg might be intermittently touching another metal surface.

What RDA are you using?

 

[gopher_byrd]

Hello all, fairly new to building and on a couple of my recent builds the ohms have been jumping around a bit, we'll say by .06 or say upon firing and then going back down again. I have checked this on ohm meter and various regulated mods. Is this normal, am I doing something wrong?

What resistance should you be getting? If it's 0.5 ohms or more a change of 0.06 won't really mean much. If you're going for super sub-ohm. 0.2 or less, then yeah that is a big difference and you should find out why.

What kind of wire are you using? If stainless steel, nickel, or titanium it will increase resistance as it heats. That's why those metals are used for temp control.

 

[STX]

You guys nailed it!!! It is SS wire and it is increasing just a bit while firing, and then going back down consistently upon cooling. I did not know SS did this and I thought that I was doing something wrong.

My builds are around the .4 to .5 range as I feel that I have a lot to learn before trying to go super low, and potentially hurting myself. Only until I have a full working knowledge of ohm's law and can create consistent builds will I go any lower.

I actually think that I am going to try some higher builds and see how I like it, less juice and better battery life sounds good to me. I got into building so I could try it all and get a better vape experience, and so far it really has delivered.

Thanks as always for the great help and advice!!!

 

[MyMagicMist]

Most of my experience is using mechanical mods. That given, note that if a coil is varying +/- 0.05 or so it usually isn't too concerning. Being I mostly use mechanical mods, cannot say if you can lock anything into a chip. My "sweet spot" is roughly 0.30 to 0.50. Then, I'm allegedly a "dirty" Kanthal user. *chuckles*

 

[STX]

I haven’t tried Kanthal, but I’m sure I did when I was using stock coils. I think that I like nichrome better than SS though, seems to have better flavor but what do I know.

I’ll definitely give Kanthal a shot and see what I think, it has a slower ramp up time and higher resistance right?

I’m trying to figure out how ramp up time affects initial spitback cause my SS builds spit just at first and I am assuming that is because of fast ramp up time, whereas maybe a slower RUT would prevent that initial pop.

IDK, it’s all a fun and interesting experience, if my build sucks it costs pennies to make a new one compared to buying coils and disliking them and I’m out 10 sometimes even 20 bucks for a pack. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to that.

 

[nadalama]

You might be squonking a little heavy - leaving more juice in the cotton and on the coil than is optimal. Usually spitting comes from residual juice that didn't get vaporized, and just remember - any coil that heats up fast is also going to cool down fast.

I talked some junk about Kanthal in another thread, and now @MyMagicMist has his knickers in a twist about it, so that's where the Kanthal comment came from. He and I are buds, and we spar a little from time to time. Probably where the truth about Kanthal lies is somewhere between what I think and what he thinks - it's neither heaven nor hell on earth, so to speak.

I actually agree with you about N80 - I like it best of the three most common types of wire - for resistance, ramp time, and flavor. I end up using a lot of stainless, though, because 26awg is such a versatile size and I really like 26awg parallel and staged coils. The 26 stainless wire spool stays in my toolkit, so it's too easy to just grab what's most handy.

 

[MyMagicMist]

it has a slower ramp up time and higher resistance right?

Do believe so. I may be incorrect, though. Know it does well for me averaging about 24 Watts with mechanical mods. ETA: I hedge due to the subjective nature of it all. Yes, for me Kanthal takes a minute bit of time to fire. Does that equate to "too long" for me? No. It may for others, though.

IDK, it’s all a fun and interesting experience, if my build sucks it costs pennies to make a new one compared to buying coils and disliking them and I’m out 10 sometimes even 20 bucks for a pack. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to that.

There's the truth of building your own. ETA: Even if all you do is like me simple single strand builds. You still come out ahead for finding what you like, saving money. You can even find real cheap pre-made "simple" coils which save you a little hassle. $2 to $5 a pack of 100-200 isn't bad at all.

I talked some junk about Kanthal in another thread, and now @MyMagicMist has his knickers in a twist about it, so that's where the Kanthal comment came from. He and I are buds, and we spar a little from time to time. Probably where the truth about Kanthal lies is somewhere between what I think and what he thinks - it's neither heaven nor hell on earth, so to speak.

"Knickers in a twist", eh? Pffft, please. *chuckles* Yeah, we're buddies. *HUG*

Ultimately, it boils to use what suits yourself because that's "right for you". I've tried most of it except "stealth" vaping and "pods", "salts". Figured out what I like. Figure everyone else does the same.

 

[Frogger]

Deleted

 

[nadalama]

You guys nailed it!!! It is SS wire and it is increasing just a bit while firing, and then going back down consistently upon cooling. I did not know SS did this and I thought that I was doing something wrong.

My builds are around the .4 to .5 range as I feel that I have a lot to learn before trying to go super low, and potentially hurting myself. Only until I have a full working knowledge of ohm's law and can create consistent builds will I go any lower.

I actually think that I am going to try some higher builds and see how I like it, less juice and better battery life sounds good to me. I got into building so I could try it all and get a better vape experience, and so far it really has delivered.

Thanks as always for the great help and advice!!!

Some points I'll make that hopefully will give you some reassurance about building:

1. Never go below about 0.18 - 0.20 ohms (tested on an ohm reader or a regulated mod), at least until you're more experienced,
2. Keep all batteries in good shape (wraps not nicked, nothing bulging or misshapen, battery ends clean), and DON'T USE ANY that are "iffy,"
3. Buy batteries only from reputable battery vendors so you don't end up with rewraps that you can't have any confidence in,
4. When vape starts to get a little weak, don't wait to replace with a fully-charged battery,
5. Keep your mods clean,
6. Keep stray pieces of wire out of the decks of rebuildable atomizers - always find all of the pieces of wire you trim away when you're building a deck,
7. Do not leave mods and/or batteries in a hot or cold car.
8. Do not make a practice of running any mod at its capacity all the time. If its max is 80W, don't think you can run the thing at 80W all the time. Chances are the mod is single 18650, and the battery WILL overheat.

I'm sure there are more rules like these, but if you follow rules that make sense and keep your wits about you, chances are very good that you'll be absolutely fine.

I can't do the Ohm's Law math without a calculator, but I know if I never build too low, and my batteries are good, and I don't ever buy junk batteries, etc etc, I don't have to worry too much about specific details. The trick is to be absolute with it - NEVER AND ALWAYS are important. Don't ever try to bend the rules "just this once." That's when you'll run into trouble.

If I've said anything here that's in any way unwise or unclear, somebody call me on it, and I'll correct.

 

[MyMagicMist]

+9. Do not let batteries set unused in a mod that has silver contacts. You ought to be able to note that before getting the mod. Silver contacts can drain off and/or kill batteries if left to set unused. Always remove batteries from mods with silver contacts if no plans to use the mod for about four hours. You can always toss a battery in when you go to using the mod.

+10. Battery buying tip: IMR rewraps batteries yet not nefariously. They use higher grade wrap material than manufactures. IMR has its own inventory system which is encoded on their wraps. You get the exact battery you buy, in excellent shape. IMR is reputable and legitimate for battery sales. They are simply a wholesale distributor. That means a little savings to customers. (Not an IMR shill, only a satisfied customer.)