dude, both legs of my eyeglasses are held on by 24g 316L lol "that wire" is some handy shizzMy kitchen tap was broken ...it’s got a crappy plastic cup inside that sits over the valve assembly ..the bracket inside the tap had split so wasnt catching anymore
Anyway as a fix until I can buy a a while new assembly I tried to create a brace with a small cable tie but it wouldnt fit inside the gasket sigh....
What else was to hand, yep you guessed it ....I fixed it using 24g wrapped around as a brace then twisted it tight and snipped away so it formed a collar...tap sits snug and it’s turning like new!
That’ll hold like a champ!
Wifey is well impressed with my Man skills, said I told you all this wire was worth the money!
Bet I get a call tomorrow ....sodding thing is pissing everywhere
I only use mechs too. regardless, I feel like too much was read into this question lol I read it as "in general does KA1 have more or less resistance than 316L" or however it was phrased. as in, assuming everything is equal.. I mean sure, you can come up with examples where x is true vs y or whatever ya know?? I also admit I know jack about the workings of regulated mods. I do however know that regardless of what its sitting on, a 5 wrap 26g 316l will ramp faster and have a lower resistance then the same coil wrapped with KA1.. which I believe was something similar to an answer to the original post?? lol how different mods use the coils is irrelevant to which has less resistance and ramp up? unless I'm wrong about both, which is not only possible, but likely lol i bow to the knowledge presented in a couple posts, they were written by someone more knowledgable than I, however, I think they were over complicating things a bit??I only use mechanical tube mods and one series mod so I have come to say that I DO NOT disagree. I in fact know virtually nothing about the way regulated mods work, and I stand firm on that!
series builds *shudder* lol I have a boatload of KA1 that I rarely use because I decided I was gonna go series. that didnt last long.. those are a solid build as always however..Finally got my pair of series aliens done, next up is fraliens, now that I know how much wire I need (it's ridiculous)
3x28/40
View attachment 113083
And I learned it's harder to use lower gauge decores for alien with long sticks, stuff starts getting mighty twisted near the end - so I went standard alien math
series builds *shudder* lol I have a boatload of KA1 that I rarely use because I decided I was gonna go series. that didnt last long.. those are a solid build as always however..
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I use a touch of corn starch...no sticking...wire slips right through the fingers. Great tip though!grrr 40g broke at least this time it waited until I had enough for a coil.. (I think) need SOMETHING even semi-completed under my belt..
2*28g / 38g N80 frames, 10*.4x.1 KA1 fused with 40g N80
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edit: oh, found a new trick for ribbon (or any wire I suppose)...dip your fingers in a bit of VG, made things much easier on me.. and I must say, better than saliva especially if your building for someone else lol
I prefer staggered builds, but I seem to be the odd man out most times lol seems to me juice flows in around the ribbon easier or something plus lots of places for it to gather but I'm sure its placebo..How do SSFCs vape versus Fraliens anyone?
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Well, I'm gonna give it a go tomorrow...I prefer staggered builds, but I seem to be the odd man out most times lol seems to me juice flows in around the ribbon easier or something plus lots of places for it to gather but I'm sure its placebo..
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I find I'm much more comfortable with the staggered variants than the alien ones as well. I'm scraping the bottom of the barrel ribbon wise though, probably just built my last SSFC til I get more in.. that .4KA1 was the last holdout and I doubt theres enough left on the spool for another.. good luck tomorrow manWell, I'm gonna give it a go tomorrow...
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Thank you! (I'm gonna need it)I find I'm much more comfortable with the staggered variants than the alien ones as well. I'm scraping the bottom of the barrel ribbon wise though, probably just built my last SSFC til I get more in.. that .4KA1 was the last holdout and I doubt theres enough left on the spool for another.. good luck tomorrow man
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dude, both legs of my eyeglasses are held on by 24g 316L lol "that wire" is some handy shizz
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I think you exactly right. If the premise of the original statement or question was "does kanthal have more resistance than SS?" then the answer is simply yes. Given the same wattage, same build, ect Kanthal will always have a slower ramp up time than it's other traditional counterparts, N80 and SS. Sometimes people throw additional variables into an answer to a question or statement which started out very simple. I don't think it's a malicious thing I just think it's human nature for everyone to want to share their knowledge with other people and sometimes the train ends up going off the track because of that lol.I only use mechs too. regardless, I feel like too much was read into this question lol I read it as "in general does KA1 have more or less resistance than 316L" or however it was phrased. as in, assuming everything is equal.. I mean sure, you can come up with examples where x is true vs y or whatever ya know?? I also admit I know jack about the workings of regulated mods. I do however know that regardless of what its sitting on, a 5 wrap 26g 316l will ramp faster and have a lower resistance then the same coil wrapped with KA1.. which I believe was something similar to an answer to the original post?? lol how different mods use the coils is irrelevant to which has less resistance and ramp up? unless I'm wrong about both, which is not only possible, but likely lol i bow to the knowledge presented in a couple posts, they were written by someone more knowledgable than I, however, I think they were over complicating things a bit??
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Dude your on a fralien rampage!! They are getting better and better!!A pair of Fraliens I built for the Pyro RDTA last night...
.08 ohms...vapes nice at 120 watts
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I always enjoy seeing a nice clean staggered build like this. Plus I know that's what you're really good at.grrr 40g broke at least this time it waited until I had enough for a coil.. (I think) need SOMETHING even semi-completed under my belt..
2*28g / 38g N80 frames, 10*.4x.1 KA1 fused with 40g N80
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edit: oh, found a new trick for ribbon (or any wire I suppose)...dip your fingers in a bit of VG, made things much easier on me.. and I must say, better than saliva especially if your building for someone else lol
In my opinion SSFC do vape very well. They aren't quite as crisp as fraliens IMO. It's more of a rounded flavor than a sharp flavor if you know what I mean. But they are very comparable builds both will vape well if built well I think its one of those things that could really be subjective.How do SSFCs vape versus Fraliens anyone?
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So sick!, I'm getting better at this build, I'm gonna surprise you soon.
I love that build, but I'm content in helping fund @Pegleg Meg 's research into the coil arts to vape it.. what's left of my sanity cant handle learning that one right now lolSo sick!, I'm getting better at this build, I'm gonna surprise you soon.
I made a pair of aliens with a 40 gauge wrap for the first time recently. I didn't think they were anything special so I didn't post them. I was expecting it to be much harder to do than say 36g but it ended up not being that bad. It took longer, but it was almost easier to stay in the groove. I did find it challenging to see what was going on in the beginning I had to really look closely to make sure I was even getting it but it was just a regular 3-28g core alien, nothing special about it. Apparently my friend says they vape well for him. I might try a 40g wrap for myself the next time I build myself a fralien.3x27/40 n80 aliens in the warhead on a 2six 26650 tube. 4.5 3.5mm wraps ~.15
View attachment 113110
Made a slentre braidator as fast as I could lol. It’s not pretty, but it vapes okay for 30 minutes of braiding time.
3 loop slentre braidator, quick and ugly.
2x26, 36, n80, .3 ohms.
Meg it's so funny the simplest braid confuses my mind so much I just can't do them haha. It's a shame cause I bet some of them vape great but I am just not braid material.I'm super impressed, I don't think I'll ever figure out that braid
How about some Stitched Fralien action?
I meant interlocking alien... lolSweet interlock, man
vg lol it works wonders I'm telling you.. I coat the stack in vg, it's like a glue that disappears when doneAll for a series mech, was harder than I thought it would be
All 7.5 wraps 4.2mm ID
Fralien 6x.3+30/40
View attachment 113132
3x28/40
View attachment 113133
8x.3/46 staple
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I know I can do better on that staple, just have to get used to dealing with longer ribbon stacks
vg lol it works wonders I'm telling you.. I coat the stack in vg, it's like a glue that disappears when done
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This! Friends and neighbors; is a Stitched Framed Staple Alien. 2x26 frames, 7x.4 cores, 36 alien wrap, 40 stitch..14 ohms. 85 watts
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hahaha I'm the exact opposite man.. anything I might can help with?Screw SSFCs! I shake too much to master anything Staggered!
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I dunno. Old hands shaking a little bit doesn't matter much with aliens. But staggers; whoa!hahaha I'm the exact opposite man.. anything I might can help with?
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I dunno. Old hands shaking a little bit doesn't matter much with aliens. But staggers; whoa!
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I rest my hand on my work table. Just need more practice I guess lolYou can rest your hand on the table, or even your lap, and if you still shake with your hand resting on something it won't matter because of the distance between your spool and the stick, it's just careful preparation and practice after that
A hand-crank drill cuts out a lot of stress on lining things up, too
I dont have a hand drill, but I agree - it would help immensely.. lots of people put a lot of distance between the spool and the cores, I dont.. i stay close to make sure its fusing correctly, sometimes you have to make adjustments.. as far as the shaking, I have went so far as to use cusions/pillows/whatever to make a rest for my arm (I have neuropathy and a bone spur pushing on my spine. my nerves do lots of crazy things lol) I hate to say it bro, but practice and patience.. once you get it, you're good.. imo prep is more important with staggered builds than any other. I'm getting ready to build now, I expect prep to take at min. 30-45min that includes staggering a core. then fusing another 15-20..You can rest your hand on the table, or even your lap, and if you still shake with your hand resting on something it won't matter because of the distance between your spool and the stick, it's just careful preparation and practice after that
A hand-crank drill cuts out a lot of stress on lining things up, too
I dont have a hand drill, but I agree - it would help immensely.. lots of people put a lot of distance between the spool and the cores, I dont.. i stay close to make sure its fusing correctly, sometimes you have to make adjustments.. as far as the shaking, I have went so far as to use cusions/pillows/whatever to make a rest for my arm (I have neuropathy and a bone spur pushing on my spine. my nerves do lots of crazy things lol) I hate to say it bro, but practice and patience.. once you get it, you're good.. imo prep is more important with staggered builds than any other. I'm getting ready to build now, I expect prep to take at min. 30-45min that includes staggering a core. then fusing another 15-20..
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