Pure Nicotine

[RocketPuppy]

I've recently been reading about confusion between 100mg nicotine and pure nicotine with people beginning DIY.

Pure Nicotine should be broken down in laboratory like settings with a respirator, fume hood, chemical resistant gloves and gear. It is not just dangerous; the fumes alone are deadly.

Pure nicotine is as dangerous as cyanide, and purchasing it puts anyone who comes in contact with it in danger, including mail carriers and anyone who collects your mail.

 

[RMarcusY]

I've seen another thread about this. But every one should be warned that 100% nicotine is dangers to be around. The vaping world should have a 18 year old to use law and a law that you must have some kind of a license and training to work with anything higher than 100mg (10%) nicotine.

 

[BigNasty]

Backyard and bathtub mix pure nic at your own risk. Dying like Elvis is NOT my ideal way to go... But he was on the crapper... those dying of acute nic poisoning are not going to be so lucky..
To mess with Darwin award level shit in a lab is one thing, but bathtub labs is another.

 

[nightshard]

It's been used as an insecticide for a reason and then banned from being used for a reason.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

I'm not going to say anything, just watch and read, 'cause I don't wanna die!

 

[HeadInClouds]

I'm just gonna copy another post I made here. It might clarify for a future reader who stumbles on this thread.

When people say their nic base is "pure", usually they mean it's really clean and lacks the nasty flavor of bad nic.

The strongest nic base easily available, the nic that most DIY vapers buy, is 100mg/ml of nic. That is actually 10% nicotine, plus VG and/or PG, and perhaps some distilled water. Basic safe mixing in your kitchen is fine with this strength; you don't want to bathe in it, but cleaning up some spilled drops on your skin isn't going to kill you. 1,000mg/ml nicotine (which is literally 100% nicotine) can kill you.

(I'll say "nobody" here and someone might object, but I'll stick with that anyway) Even at the 10% (100mg/ml) nic strength - nobody vapes that without diluting it more. Most juice companies sell eliquid at MAX strength of 36mg/ml or 24mg/ml. That is 3.6% and 2.4% nicotine strength.

So if you buy 100mg/ml nic (10% nicotine in PG/VG/water), you add MORE PG/VG/water to get to your target strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 9 parts of other stuff makes 10mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 8 parts of other stuff makes 11.1mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 7 parts of other stuff makes 12.5mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 6 parts of other stuff makes 14.3mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 5 parts of other stuff makes 16.6mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 4 parts of other stuff makes 20mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 3 parts of other stuff makes 25mg/ml nic strength.
One part of 100mg/ml nic base plus 2 parts of other stuff makes 33.3mg/ml nic strength.

Now you can add flavoring, which will reduce that nic strength further. If you add 10% flavoring, you reduce the strength 10%, for example.

Instead of adding flavoring after diluting nic, you can include it in the "other stuff." To do that, you either need to be good at mental math or use a calculator. I use the easy method, because I really don't notice a huge difference between 16.6mg/ml nic strength and 15mg/ml (strength of my diluted nic before and after adding about 10% flavoring, which is the most I tend to use).

Everyone should always ask all the questions they have about this - it's important to stay safe, and to get the results you want.

 

[Whiskey]

I've recently been reading about confusion between 100mg nicotine and pure nicotine with people beginning DIY.

The stickied video recently posted about how to handle nicotine is in regards to handling 100mg, not pure nicotine.

And has since been removed, Like I posted earlier we are working to get an informative thread/Sticky composed to help members better understand the
responsibilities of knowing how to handle it and educate those who are not aware of these dangers.

 

[Vaperstek]

As a side note, since I do not have proper credentials to post in the sticky and cant post it there. Another thing to consider is most "GLOVE" nitrile and certain rubber gloves are degraded, and do degrade in contact with pure nicotine.. And remember that the gloves you throw away in your trash, will be considered hazardous waste.

 

[Time]

Some here have been and/or plan on using pure nic. It doesn't get talked about because the elites have kittens about it and pass off misleading information. It's never been worth the battle to bring up. The sticky is a good idea. Well done. That said, pure nic will continue to be hush-hush for quite awhile. It's still not worth fighting through those that know what is best for everybody and answer every challenge. That's a shame, IMO. Like it or not, people are going to use it. I know I will.

 

[Huckleberried]

You intend to use 990-1000mg nicotine? Seriously?


Typos brought to you by: iPhone.

 

[Time]

Absolutely.

Why not?

 

[RocketPuppy]

Some here have been and/or plan on using pure nic. It doesn't get talked about because the elites have kittens about it and pass off misleading information. It's never been worth the battle to bring up. The sticky is a good idea. Well done. That said, pure nic will continue to be hush-hush for quite awhile. It's still not worth fighting through those that know what is best for everybody and answer every challenge. That's a shame, IMO. Like it or not, people are going to use it. I know I will.

I'm not telling anyone not to use it. I was just explaining that 99% nic is much different than 100mg. A few people had questions about it in a previous thread.

 

[Time]

deleted.

 

[Huckleberried]

My concern is the confusion involved. When people talk about "clean" nic, they generally mean a NIC WITH BASE, purchased from a vendor that sells to a DIYer in strengths at 100 MILLIGRAMS, and less, that is clear in color and tasteless, as opposed to peppery nic with a funky odor or color. When people talk about "pure" nic, they are a talking about PURE NICOTINE. This is stuff that is 1000 MILLIGRAMS in strength. BIG difference. HUGE. People that are new and researching DIY need to understand this difference. Too many people don't properly research DIY and that could cost someone dearly. I don't consider trying to warn and caution people on the matters of safety to be elitist, nor do I believe it to cause the birth of kittens. Terms of safety, to my knowledge, have never been shared, posted, plastered on packages and WARNING labels as "misleading" information.

 

[BigNasty]

The difference is..
100mg nic absorbed is gunna fuck your shit up for a while, even caught in time the skin absorbing it fast.. you will feel it. Not fun, but well below LD50 levels.
1000mg is going to make you Elvis for a little bit... while your heart explodes and you die shitting your pants. LD50 exceeded, death and Darwin presenting you an award.

 

[Time]

My concern is the confusion involved. When people talk about "clean" nic, they generally mean a NIC WITH BASE, purchased from a vendor that sells to a DIYer in strengths at 100 MILLIGRAMS, and less. When people talk about "pure" nic, they are a talking about PURE NICOTINE. This is stuff that is 1000 MILLIGRAMS in strength. BIG difference. HUGE. People that are new and researching DIY need to understand this difference. Too many people don't properly research DIY and that could cost someone dearly. I don't consider trying to warn and caution people on the matters of safety to be elitist, nor do I believe it to cause the birth of kittens. Terms of safety, to my knowledge, have never been shared, posted, plastered on packages and WARNING labels as "misleading" information.

Addressing the confusion is fine. People absolutely should be aware of what they are buying.

Statements that only "licensed laboratories with a hazmat facility" should purchase pure nic and that purchasing it puts random people in danger have nothing to do with the semantics of 100% nic vs the purity of nic used in a base. Not only do the statements not clear up the pure vs pure confusion, they are not even remotely correct. They certainly are not "terms of safety".

A simple, "Be aware of what you buy" with an explaination of the difference in strength would certainly be enough to inform the new DIY'er. Embellishment comes off as elitist. Pure nic does not require a license and is quite safe to ship with proper procedures as I'm sure the suppliers are aware. Suggesting otherwise is misinformation.

 

[Time]

The difference is..
100mg nic absorbed is gunna fuck your shit up for a while, even caught in time the skin absorbing it fast.. you will feel it. Not fun, but well below LD50 levels.
1000mg is going to make you Elvis for a little bit... while your heart explodes and you die shitting your pants. LD50 exceeded, death and Darwin presenting you an award.

Don't get it on you. Problem solved.

 

[RocketPuppy]

Some of the companies shipping pure nic are not shipping it packaged well. If it leaks, it does put anyone who handles it in danger.

I'm not one who posts false warnings nor do I want to create mass hysteria. However, using pure nic is extremely dangerous, whether you want to agree or not. I should have posted links for proper care, but I didn't. Do people need to have a laboratory to use it? No. Do they need laboratory type ventilation and full coverage when using it, yes. I can't find any data that shows this is in error, so please, if it is, please direct me to where so I can edit the post appropriately.

 

[Whiskey]

Addressing the confusion is fine. People absolutely should be aware of what they are buying.


A simple, "Be aware of what you buy" with an explaination of the difference in strength

That ^^ Is what we are trying to achieve with this sticky, nothing more, nothing less, all other comments will remain here and in other threads of this type, you are free to express your opinions just as everyone else is free to do the same. First and foremost VU & it's staff want it's members new and seasoned to have the resources to be informed.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

I know I said I'd keep quite but you know?

The labels on the premade bottles we buy to go right in to our tanks have basically
the same warnings as the stong bottles of pure nicotine that will kill us. There might
be a sentence or two longer I guess. More people will be dropping from this I'm afraid.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

I've never got into anything that it was so important to read warning labels in all my life.

 

[AmandaD]

Don't get it on you. Problem solved.

And don't sniff the bottle....

Once the FDA steps in the ability to purchase nicotine of any strength may change.

 

[Huckleberried]

One HUNDRED milligram per ml nicotine, or less - what your average mixer is using to make ejuice, purchased from a vendor.

One THOUSAND milligram per ml nicotine. - what your vendor (or their vendor) is mixing with a base of PG, VG, or both, then selling the finished product the average DIYer, in strengths of 100mg or less.

Big difference from the milligrams listed on your finished ejuice bottle. Of course it's going to have a warning label on it. It contains nicotine. There is a ton of information from the CDC that's easily accessible.

 

[Huckleberried]

And don't sniff the bottle....

Once the FDA steps in the ability to purchase nicotine of any strength may change.

And this right here is one of many reasons that we need a sticky about safety measures when handling nicotine. And me? I'd rather see that happen than some person go off mixing with 1000mg, not knowing what they have their hands on, get horribly sick or worse.

 

[Time]

Some of the companies shipping pure nic are not shipping it packaged well. If it leaks, it does put anyone who handles it in danger.

I'm not one who posts false warnings nor do I want to create mass hysteria. However, using pure nic is extremely dangerous, whether you want to agree or not. I should have posted links for proper care, but I didn't. Do people need to have a laboratory to use it? No. Do they need laboratory type ventilation and full coverage when using it, yes. I can't find any data that shows this is in error, so please, if it is, please direct me to where so I can edit the post appropriately.

I have heard no information on leaked pure nic with exposure to handlers during shipping. Maybe you could share your information.

Good ventilation is required. Laboratory type ventilation not required. Many basic solvents require good ventilation but people don't generally create a lab ventilation system at home to stain some wood. I certainly wouldn't lock myself in a closet to dilute some pure nic. What is missing here is scale. A working lab has lots of chemicals running through it. Home, not so much.

Pure nic is extremely dangerous. It should be treated as such. Just like any other poison.

 

[Time]

And don't sniff the bottle....

Once the FDA steps in the ability to purchase nicotine of any strength may change.

No. Don't sniff the bottle.

The FDA thing is the reason I decided to go with pure nic. Regulation of nic seems the most obvious choice for regulating vaping. It's easier to put away a lifetime supply of pure nic than a lifetime supply of 100mg nic. Reading these threads it's easy to determine that when those that use nic attack suppliers for providing nic, there will be little resistance to regulation. Implying that I may kill the mailman when I order my nic and people believing it does not give the impression that those in the DIY world will stand against regulation. They won't.

Certainly, anyone not comfortable with the higher risk of pure nic should not use it.

 

[Whiskey]

Certainly, anyone not comfortable with the higher risk of pure nic should not use it.

Brilliant

 

[RocketPuppy]

I have heard no information on leaked pure nic with exposure to handlers during shipping. Maybe you could share your information.

A few members here and on ecf who have ordered pure nic said it came with a sealed lid, no other protection. Some companies who sell pure nic label their bottles as Glycerin. If there were any problems in shipment, people handling it wouldn't even know of the dangers.

Many basic solvents require good ventilation but people don't generally create a lab ventilation system at home to stain some wood.

No matter how noxious wood stain fumes are, the toxicity is no where near that of pure nic.

 

[Laughmore]

I thought I wanted the highest concentration nic I could find for bulk/budget/cost reasons when I started. (edit: and I can't shake the elitist blood in my veins, getting better though)

As mixing became part of my routine however, I realized that I was living a lifestyle of dealing/living with the poison, and wanted to minimize the stress while staying responsible. I don't want a kid sticking a finger in my base turning into a hospital trip. I don't want my dog to die if she steps in a floor spill. Of course these risks are minimized with care, but a lifestyle of mixing is constant exposure to these risks, however small. Mix long enough, and you will experience Murphy's Law.

I got nic sick from a splash on my hand of 100mg nic that I didn't notice until it started to itch. I don't want anything stronger than 60mg - it's nice to have that level of risk off my radar. From VaporTek, I'm not concerned about quality with filler they use also.

 

[BigNasty]

I thought I wanted the highest concentration nic I could find for bulk/budget/cost reasons when I started. (edit: and I can't shake the elitist blood in my veins, getting better though)

As mixing became part of my routine however, I realized that I was living a lifestyle of dealing/living with the poison, and wanted to minimize the stress while staying responsible. I don't want a kid sticking a finger in my base turning into a hospital trip. I don't want my dog to die if she steps in a floor spill. Of course these risks are minimized with care, but a lifestyle of mixing is constant exposure to these risks, however small. Mix long enough, and you will experience Murphy's Law.

I got nic sick from a splash on my hand of 100mg nic that I didn't notice until it started to itch. I don't want anything stronger than 60mg - it's nice to have that level of risk off my radar. From VaporTek, I'm not concerned about quality with filler they use also.

As long as nic sick and murphy's law is not a darwin award.

 

[Vaperstek]

NIcotine is a division 6 substance. Only 2 other classes exist above nicotines classification.. RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL and certain CORROSIVES,.... That is how dangerous it is.. DO you own or have a hazmat suit? Do you know how to clean up a spill??? Will you know if a drop or 2 lands somewhere ( shoe, countertop, pants)?

You want to cut it in your yard maybe??? You have pets??? animals? They find a couple drops and sniff it or even walk over it, get the body bag.

You want to deal with it and dont have a chemistry degree. I highly suggest you find someone who does and listen to every word they have to say. And for a good hazmat suit, plan on spending at least 3-5K. You plan on dealing with pure nicotine and not have a scba system in use while dealing with it, I do not care who you are, you are FOOLISH.

You better have a plan in place for EVERY SINGLE STEP ALONG THE PROCESS OF DEALING WITH IT,

AND YOU BETTER NOT MAKE ONE MISTAKE, IT MAY BE YOUR LAST.

AND IF YOU DO DIE FROM IT,( GOD FORBID) YOU HAVE JUST SCREWED THE WHOLE INDUSTRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Division 6.1: Toxic substances

Division 6.2: Infectious substances

Reason for Regulation

Toxic and infectious substances can pose significant risks to human and animal health upon contact.

Commonly Transported Toxic Substances; Infectious Substances

1. Medical/Biomedical waste
2. Clinical waste
3. Biological cultures / samples / specimens
4. Medical cultures / samples / specimens
5. Tear gas substances
6. Motor fuel anti-knock mixture
7. Dyes
8. Carbamate pesticides
9. Alkaloids
10. Allyls
11. Acids
12. Arsenates
13. Arsenites
14. Cyanides
15. Thiols/mercaptans
16. Cresols
17. Barium compounds
18. Arsenics / arsenic compounds
19. Beryllium/ beryllium compounds
20. Lead compounds
21. Mercury compounds
22. Nicotine / nicotine compounds
23. Selenium compounds
24. Antimony
25. Ammonium metavanadate
26. Adiponitrile
27. Chloroform
28. Dichloromethane
29. Hexachlorophene
30. Phenol
31. Resorcinol

 

[Vaperstek]

The MINUTE YOU OPEN A BOTTLE OF PURE NICOTINE YOU ARE CONSIDERED TO BE IN A LEVEL A (RED ZONE)

CAS #: 54-11-5

RTECS #: QS5250000

UN #: 1654 (Guide 151)

Common Names:

• 1-Methyl-2-(3-pyridyl)pyrrolidine
• 3-(1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidinyl)pyridine

Agent Characteristics

• APPEARANCE: Colorless to pale yellow, oily liquid that turns brown on exposure to air or light. Also available as a powder.
• DESCRIPTION: Nicotine is a naturally occurring toxic chemical found in tobacco plants. It has a fishy odor when warm. Cigarettes, cigars, other tobacco products, and tobacco smoke contain nicotine. Worker exposure may occur during processing and extraction of tobacco. At one time, nicotine was used in the United States as an insecticide and fumigant; however, it is no longer produced or used in this country for this purpose. Nicotine affects the nervous system and the heart. Exposure to relatively small amounts can rapidly be fatal.
• METHODS OF DISSEMINATION:
  • Indoor Air: Nicotine can be released into indoor air as a fine powder or liquid spray (aerosol).
  • Water: Nicotine can be used to contaminate water.
  • Food: Nicotine can be used to contaminate food.
  • Outdoor Air: Nicotine can be released into outdoor air as a fine powder or liquid spray (aerosol).
  • Agricultural: If nicotine is released into the air as fine powder or liquid spray (aerosol), it has the potential to contaminate agricultural products.
• ROUTES OF EXPOSURE: Nicotine can be absorbed into the body by inhalation, ingestion, skin contact, and mucous membranes.

Personal Protective Equipment

• GENERAL INFORMATION: First Responders should use a NIOSH-certified Chemical, Biological, Radiological, Nuclear (CBRN) Self Contained Breathing Apparatus (SCBA) with a Level A protective suit when entering an area with an unknown contaminant or when entering an area where the concentration of the contaminant is unknown. Level A protection should be used until monitoring results confirm the contaminant and the concentration of the contaminant.
  NOTE: Safe use of protective clothing and equipment requires specific skills developed through training and experience.
• 
  
• 
  
• LEVEL A: (RED ZONE): Select when the greatest level of skin, respiratory, and eye protection is required. This is the maximum protection for workers in danger of exposure to unknown chemical hazards or levels above the IDLH or greater than the AEGL-2.
  • A NIOSH-certified CBRN full-face-piece SCBA operated in a pressure-demand mode or a pressure-demand supplied air hose respirator with an auxiliary escape bottle.
  • A Totally-Encapsulating Chemical Protective (TECP) suit that provides protection against CBRN agents.
  • Chemical-resistant gloves (outer).
  • Chemical-resistant gloves (inner).
  • Chemical-resistant boots with a steel toe and shank.
  • Coveralls, long underwear, and a hard hat worn under the TECP suit are optional items.

• LEVEL B: (RED ZONE): Select when the highest level of respiratory protection is necessary but a lesser level of skin protection is required. This is the minimum protection for workers in danger of exposure to unknown chemical hazards or levels above the IDLH or greater than AEGL-2. It differs from Level A in that it incorporates a non-encapsulating, splash-protective, chemical-resistant splash suit that provides Level A protection against liquids but is not airtight.
  • A NIOSH-certified CBRN full-face-piece SCBA operated in a pressure-demand mode or a pressure-demand supplied air hose respirator with an auxiliary escape bottle.
  • A hooded chemical-resistant suit that provides protection against CBRN agents.
  • Chemical-resistant gloves (outer).
  • Chemical-resistant gloves (inner).
  • Chemical-resistant boots with a steel toe and shank.
  • Coveralls, long underwear, a hard hat worn under the chemical-resistant suit, and chemical-resistant disposable boot-covers worn over the chemical-resistant suit are optional items.
• LEVEL C: (YELLOW ZONE): Select when the contaminant and concentration of the contaminant are known and the respiratory protection criteria factors for using Air Purifying Respirators (APR) or Powered Air Purifying Respirators (PAPR) are met. This level is appropriate when decontaminating patient/victims.
  • A NIOSH-certified CBRN tight-fitting APR with a canister-type gas mask or CBRN PAPR for air levels greater than AEGL-2.
  • A NIOSH-certified CBRN PAPR with a loose-fitting face-piece, hood, or helmet and a filter or a combination organic vapor, acid gas, and particulate cartridge/filter combination or a continuous flow respirator for air levels greater than AEGL-1.
  • A hooded chemical-resistant suit that provides protection against CBRN agents.
  • Chemical-resistant gloves (outer).
  • Chemical-resistant gloves (inner).
  • Chemical-resistant boots with a steel toe and shank.
  • Escape mask, face shield, coveralls, long underwear, a hard hat worn under the chemical-resistant suit, and chemical-resistant disposable boot-covers worn over the chemical-resistant suit are optional items.
• LEVEL D: (GREEN ZONE): Select when the contaminant and concentration of the contaminant are known and the concentration is below the appropriate occupational exposure limit or less than AEGL-1 for the stated duration times.
  • Limited to coveralls or other work clothes, boots, and gloves.

 

[Vaperstek]

And don't forget to go down to your local firefighter station and TELL them what you have in your home, garage, whatever, otherwise you put them AND YOUR NEIGHBORS in A
DANGEROUS / DEADLY SITUATION!!!!!!






Emergency Response

• 
  
  
  • CHEMICAL DANGERS:
    • Nicotine decomposes on heating, producing nitrogen oxides, carbon monoxide, and other highly toxic fumes.
    • Nicotine reacts violently with strong oxidants.
    • Nicotine is incompatible with strong acids
    • Nicotine will attack some forms of plastics, rubber, and coatings.
  • EXPLOSION HAZARDS:
    • Above 203°F (95°C), explosive vapor/air mixtures may be formed.
    • Lower explosive (flammable) limit in air (LEL), 0.7%; upper explosive (flammable) limit in air (UEL), 4.0%.
    • Containers may explode when heated.
  • FIRE FIGHTING INFORMATION:
    • Nicotine is combustible when exposed to heat or flame.
    • Fire will produce irritating, corrosive, and/or toxic gases.
    • For small fires, use dry chemical, carbon dioxide, or water spray.
    • For large fires, use water spray, fog, or regular foam. Move containers from the fire area if it is possible to do so without risk to personnel. Dike fire control water for later disposal; do not scatter the material. Use water spray or fog; do not use straight streams.
    • For fire involving tanks or car/trailer loads, fight the fire from maximum distance or use unmanned hose holders or monitor nozzles. Do not get water inside containers. Cool containers with flooding quantities of water until well after the fire is out. Withdraw immediately in case of rising sound from venting safety devices or discoloration of tanks. Always stay away from tanks engulfed in fire.
    • For massive fire, use unmanned hose holders or monitor nozzles; if this is impossible, withdraw from the area and let the fire burn.
    • Run-off from fire control or dilution water may be corrosive and/or toxic, and it may cause pollution.
    • If the situation allows, control and properly dispose of run-off (effluent).
  • INITIAL ISOLATION AND PROTECTIVE ACTION DISTANCES:
    • If a tank, rail car, or tank truck is involved in a fire, isolate it for 0.5 mi (800 m) in all directions; also consider initial evacuation for 0.5 mi (800 m) in all directions.
    • This agent is not included in the DOT ERG 2004 Table of Initial Isolation and Protective Action Distances.
    • In the DOT ERG 2004 orange-bordered section of the guidebook, there are public safety recommendations to isolate a nicotine (Guide 151) spill or leak area immediately for at least 150 ft (50 m) for liquids and 75 ft (25 m) for solids in all directions.
  • PHYSICAL DANGERS:
    • At 68°F (20°C) evaporation of nicotine can quickly cause hazardous air conditions in small enclosed spaces.
    • Nicotine readily absorbs moisture from the air (hygroscopic).
    • Nicotine is light sensitive (photosensitive) and will gradually turn brown on exposure to air or light.
  • NFPA 704 Signal:
    • Health: 4
    • Flammability: 1
    • Reactivity: 0
    • Special:
    

Signs/Symptoms

• 
  
  
  • TIME COURSE: Nicotine poisoning typically (but not always) produces toxicity in two phases: stimulation/excitation (early) followed quickly by inhibition/depression (late). Some patient/victims may only exhibit late phase effects. Onset of physical effects is dependent on route of exposure. Early phase findings occur within 15 minutes to 1 hour. Vomiting is the most common symptom of nicotine poisoning. Late phase findings occur within 30 minutes to 4 hours. The duration of symptoms is about 1 to 2 hours following mild exposure, and up to 18 to 24 hours following severe exposure. Death may occur within 1 hour after severe exposure.
  • EFFECTS OF SHORT-TERM (LESS THAN 8-HOURS) EXPOSURE: At low concentrations, nicotine causes tremor and increases in heart rate, respiratory rate, blood pressure, and level of alertness. More severe exposures cause muscle fasciculations (involuntary twitching), seizures, and abnormal heart rhythms; these effects are followed by multi-system organ depression including slow heart rate (bradycardia), low blood pressure (hypotension), and paralysis of the muscles that control breathing. Vomiting occurs in more then 50% of symptomatic patient/victims. Death may occur, and is typically due to paralysis of the muscles that control breathing, a build-up of fluid in the airways (bronchorrhea), and failure of the heart and blood vessels (cardiovascular collapse).
  • EYE EXPOSURE:
    • Irritation and redness.
    • Pure nicotine in the eye may cause severe pain and inflammation of the conjuctiva.
    • Severe exposure may cause opacification of the cornea.
  • INGESTION EXPOSURE:
    • Early phase: nausea, vomiting (emesis), abdominal pain, and increased salivation; fluid build-up in the airways (bronchorrhea); rapid, heavy breathing (hyperpnea); high blood pressure (hypertension), rapid heart rate (tachycardia), and generalized narrowing of the blood vessels (vasoconstriction) with pale skin; and headache, dizziness, confusion, agitation, restlessness, loss of balance and difficulty walking, and visual and hearing (auditory) distortions.
    • Late phase: diarrhea (particularly at larger doses); shallow breathing (hypoventilation), no breathing (apnea), low blood pressure (hypotension), slow heart rate (bradycardia), abnormal heart rhythms (dysrhythmias), and shock (critically low blood pressure); and loss of normal reflexes (hyporeflexia), loss of normal muscle tone (hypotonia), lethargy, weakness, paralysis, and coma (long-term loss of consciousness).
    • Possible burning sensation in the mouth, throat, and stomach.
    • Absorption of nicotine by ingestion is not complete because acid in the stomach prevents nicotine from being very well absorbed.
  • INHALATION EXPOSURE:
    • See Ingestion Exposure.
  • SKIN EXPOSURE:
    • Irritation and redness (erythema).
    • Occupational handling of tobacco leaves may result in green tobacco sickness caused by dermal absorption of nicotine.
    • Absorption through the skin and particularly through the mucous membranes may result in whole-body (systemic) toxicity.
    • Some patient/victims may exhibit an allergic reaction to nicotine.
    • See Ingestion Exposure.

Decontamination

• 
  
  
  • INTRODUCTION: The purpose of decontamination is to make an individual and/or their equipment safe by physically removing toxic substances quickly and effectively. Care should be taken during decontamination, because absorbed agent can be released from clothing and skin as a gas. Your Incident Commander will provide you with decontaminants specific for the agent released or the agent believed to have been released.
  • DECONTAMINATION CORRIDOR: The following are recommendations to protect the first responders from the release area:
    • Position the decontamination corridor upwind and uphill of the hot zone. The warm zone should include two decontamination corridors. One decontamination corridor is used to enter the warm zone and the other for exiting the warm zone into the cold zone. The decontamination zone for exiting should be upwind and uphill from the zone used to enter.
    • Decontamination area workers should wear appropriate PPE. See the PPE section of this card for detailed information.
    • A solution of detergent and water (which should have a pH value of at least 8 but should not exceed a pH value of 10.5) should be available for use in decontamination procedures. Soft brushes should be available to remove contamination from the PPE. Labeled, durable 6-mil polyethylene bags should be available for disposal of contaminated PPE.
  • INDIVIDUAL DECONTAMINATION: The following methods can be used to decontaminate an individual:
    • Decontamination of First Responder:
      • Begin washing PPE of the first responder using soap and water solution and a soft brush. Always move in a downward motion (from head to toe). Make sure to get into all areas, especially folds in the clothing. Wash and rinse (using cold or warm water) until the contaminant is thoroughly removed.
      • Remove PPE by rolling downward (from head to toe) and avoid pulling PPE off over the head. Remove the SCBA after other PPE has been removed.
      • Place all PPE in labeled durable 6-mil polyethylene bags.
    • Decontamination of Patient/Victim:
      • Remove the patient/victim from the contaminated area and into the decontamination corridor.
      • Remove all clothing (at least down to their undergarments) and place the clothing in a labeled durable 6-mil polyethylene bag.
      • Thoroughly wash and rinse (using cold or warm water) the contaminated skin of the patient/victim using a soap and water solution. Be careful not to break the patient/victim’s skin during the decontamination process, and cover all open wounds.
      • Cover the patient/victim to prevent shock and loss of body heat.
      • Move the patient/victim to an area where emergency medical treatment can be provided.

 

[Huckleberried]

Yeah, I'm feeling good about not mixing with it. I'm gonna stick with 100mg or less.

Thank you @Vaperstek, for your information!!

 

[Smoky Blue]

A few members here and on ecf who have ordered pure nic said it came with a sealed lid, no other protection. Some companies who sell pure nic label their bottles as Glycerin. If there were any problems in shipment, people handling it wouldn't even know of the dangers.

View attachment 13060


No matter how noxious wood stain fumes are, the toxicity is no where near that of pure nic.

Mine is in a thick plastic bottle, wrapped in cloth, and then placed in a bucket that looks similar to a paint can..
it depends on where you order, who the manufacturer is, and how thoughtful they are when packaging.

You must follow all safety precautions:

well ventilated area
goggles
thick gloves
long sleeves
apron

and i use a hair net, since my hair is so long (ok 2 hair nets lol)

be safe out there, it is up to the end buyer as to how to handle..
population control, one could say..

 

[Whiskey]

@Vaperstek, Check your pm's please

 

[BigNasty]

LOL if you think a proper set up to handle that level of hazardous material is costly... do a spill and face the cost of a hazmat clean up team.

20 years ago we had a hazmat spill in the rail yard we were working in... it was small and cost the company in excess of 3.5 million to clean it up.

 

[RocketPuppy]

@Smoky Blue - You're mixing with 1000mg?

 

[freemind]

@Smoky Blue - You're mixing with 1000mg?

I can tell you from our conversations, NO, she isn't mixing with it. But is having it cut.

 

[RocketPuppy]

I can tell you from our conversations, NO, she isn't mixing with it. But is having it cut.

Oh wow. I did ask that badly. I meant to ask if she was buying 1000mg. Thank you

 

[Smoky Blue]

yes i buy 1000mg and i cut it.. i do follow safety precautions.

 

[Laughmore]

As long as nic sick and murphy's law is not a darwin award.

TBH I think the Darwin Award happens when Murphy's Law is taken for granted.

 

[BigNasty]

TBH I think the Darwin Award happens when Murphy's Law is taken for granted.

Here hold my PV.

 

[Laughmore]

yes i buy 1000mg and i cut it.. i do follow safety precautions.

Just out of curiosity, what's your justification for dealing with the stuff? Money saved? Independence? I always thought dealing with it responsibly would be 10x more inconvenient than having a premix show up in the vapemail. My recent napkin math says I'm spending <$.05 per ml mixed juice with everything sourced from BCV, non-bulk rates. Personally even if I could cut that in half, I wouldn't touch uncut nic, so I'm curious why this is the best option for you!

 

[RocketPuppy]

I could be totally wrong, but I thought she sold mixes, more cost effective for retailers if they go through a lot of it. Idk

 

[Laughmore]

more cost effective for retailers if they go through a lot of it.

Yeah that would answer my question >.<

 

[Smoky Blue]

i do sell and give a lot of juice out
i do not have a line, but i enjoy what i do..

 

[AmandaD]

i do sell and give a lot of juice out
i do not have a line, but i enjoy what i do..

I think the point is that you're selling juice and doing this professionally, and therefore using large amounts of nicotine - not something the average DIYer is doing. Let's avoid Joe Jr mixing pure nicotine in his basement apartment just because it sounds fun

 

[Smoky Blue]

I think the point is that you're selling juice and doing this professionally, and therefore using large amounts of nicotine - not something the average DIYer is doing. Let's avoid Joe Jr mixing pure nicotine in his basement apartment just because it sounds fun

is there anyone that is average? no..
there are people out there, that will mix in basements, apts, and other odd places..
otherwise VU wouldn't be working on something to keep us all safe.

big thank you for that, from me..

stay safe, every body..

 

[Time]

I think the point is that you're selling juice and doing this professionally, and therefore using large amounts of nicotine - not something the average DIYer is doing. Let's avoid Joe Jr mixing pure nicotine in his basement apartment just because it sounds fun

I think the point is that Joe Jr is going to mix pure nic whether you like it or not so sweeping it under the rug is like refusing to let your kids hear about sex.

Much better to be honest and open about it and teach Joe Jr to wear protection. Telling him his wiener will fall off or the mailman will die just isn't credible in either case and won't make anyone more safe.

Personally, I think most people will pass on the pure nic just because because of the extra work. If I didn't think it is going to be harder to get in the near future, I wouldn't bother with it at all. It just adds more work to making juice.