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VapeMate

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Hey everybody
i'm newbie here and to the vaping
i just got my ego ce5, i couldn't find anything better around me
i've been using it for a while, i faced some leakings probably because of overfill, or maybe i made a bad liquid
anyway i've took it apart and cleaned it all.while cleaning i saw my wicks turned black where they go through the coil, i searched around for ce5 rebuilding tutorials and found good things
now i know how to open the coil and assemble it
so i have some questions that i didn't find an answer for
first question is how much can i draw from it's battery? (discharge rate i mean)
second, what are your suggestions for coil resistance? (a range like high,mid-low,low,etc..)
and third, somebody suggested me to buy an upgraded head, either ce7+ or the new ones that has 4 holes(idk their model name), is that a good idea?
and last question is, what can i use as a wick?

any help is appreciated
 

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Hello VapeMate and welcome to the VU! :)

First let me tell you that CE5's are considered "disposables". They were never intended to be re-built.
The char around the coil is normal.
The mah (draw time) on the ego battery depends on which battery you have. We'll need a complete name/description or a picture of it's logo to help you with that.
CE5 ohms is typically between 1.5 - 2.0 ohms. (NOTE* Do NOT try to sub-ohm on an ego)
I would not recommend CE-anything unless you want to have to keep replacing it. Maybe look into a ProTank 2 or an Aspire Vivi-Nova that have replaceable heads.
 

UncleRJ

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VapeMate

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thanks you so much for your replies, i know ce* are disposable or actually garbage
but the problem is that vaping is totally unknown in my country, there are very few places that sell e-cigs and all they have is fake cigalikes and some evod kits!
i could only find ego-ce5 around
personally i'd like to have a fancy looking mod with variable wattage and ohm meter with rda/rta but the problem is, they're too expensive for me
aspire is also amazing, t3s is really nice, i found them after i bought my ce5 in an online local store, but they don't sell it that cheap :((
i looked around and saw how i can rebuild and replace a coil so i was going to try minimizing the costs by rebuilding mine
if you guys have better options with a good price i'll try to find it somewhere around
again thanks a lot for your replies :)

P.S. i'm living under sanctions, i can't buy anything from anywhere like ebay or amazon, can't use paypal or have credit cards like MC and Visa... :/
and OMG, Eleaf iStick Pico TC 75W Starter Kit $100 at online local store! isn't that too expensive?
 
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VapeMate

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btw, i see it isn't that hard to rebuild the atomizer, why not just rebuild it? why is it considered disposable? there are replacement heads for it, like the ones some ppl suggested(ce7+,t3s,..), or can i even get any kangertech atty on it? any improvement? this is my first vape and i don't want to just dispose it :/
 

gbalkam

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btw, i see it isn't that hard to rebuild the atomizer, why not just rebuild it? why is it considered disposable? there are replacement heads for it, like the ones some ppl suggested(ce7+,t3s,..), or can i even get any kangertech atty on it? any improvement? this is my first vape and i don't want to just dispose it :/

The coils are meant to be disposable. Mind you, the entire kit probably will not last, but it will do until you can get something better.
Check with your countries customs regulations before ordering ejuice. Most do not allow it.

If it is the standard 510 connection than a kanger toptank / bottom tank mini will fit, and that comes with an RBA mini you can rebuild. You have to keep the power requirement very low though. Say 5 or 6 watts. So you will need 32ga or higher wire. I don't recommend this, but it can be done and will work.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...hentic-kangertech-subox-mini-c-vw-apv-box-mod

Is a nice starter kit. You need a separate battery, Samsung, Sony or LG High Drain 18650
20A / and 2000mah to 3000mah

later you can buy a 2nd battery and a 2 port charger so you have no down time.

Mechanical mods are cheaper sometimes, but don't use those. Those are advanced user items. I mention this because there are several mechanicals available on fasttech, and wanted to explain a bit. Mechanicals don't have any safety features. A battery, coil and fire button. Period. (these are the ones you see blowing up when noobs try to look cool.) *Or just think they know more than 10 000 other vapers in a forum. lol*
 

Whiskey

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btw, i see it isn't that hard to rebuild the atomizer, why not just rebuild it? why is it considered disposable? there are replacement heads for it, like the ones some ppl suggested(ce7+,t3s,..), or can i even get any kangertech atty on it? any improvement? this is my first vape and i don't want to just dispose it :/
I have heard of people rebuilding those, I am not sure on the steps to do so, but I know its been done, I don't blame you at all for reaching out to see if others have done that, good luck and Welcome:wave:
 

Mike H.

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If you can get kanger evod clearomizers they are fully re-buildable using the coil heads they come with..ive rebuilt many of these and they are pretty good tanks on a low budget..I still have a few of them myself. https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004861/1641809-authentic-evod-bottom-coil-clearomizer-1-5ml..The Kanger T3S uses the same coil heads so they are also re-buildable the same way you would re-build an evod...The Evod was the very first tank I learned how to build coils for.

The only thing is youll need a few materials/tools to do this but, you can rebuild for years once you have everything...You can also find a few videos on youtube showing how to rebuild them.

You need 32g kanthal wire
You need some organic cotton or a vaping application type cotton..Don't use standard white cotton balls...they have bleach in the cotton and its not recommended to use.
You need a 1.5mm screwdriver to wrap the coil around
You need some finger nail clippers to cut the wire with
 
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gbalkam

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Actually... unbleached cotton is more hazardous due to bacteria and molds which may be present. The bleaching process removes these. Excess bleach is then rinsed from the cotton and any residual bleach breaks down into water and salt By the time the cotton is rinsed, dried, packaged and shipped there is no bleach left in the cotton. Which is exactly the reason cotton balls do not smell like bleach. FYI Did you know, it is common practice for water well drillers to pour a gallon of bleach into the well before capping the well casing? This kills any bacteria and helps suspended particles clump together and drop to the bottom of the well. Just like adding unflavored gelatin to your home brewed beer to settle the yeast out before bottling. :)
 

VapeMate

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thank you so much guys, now i'm disappointed of my ce5 and i'm looking for some rba
all i want is some lovely clouds while saving money and staying healthy
i looked around and found this
mp1u_k-m-t.jpg

seller says it is kangertech mini protank 3 with kanger tech evod vv battery + 5 coils
there are more picture on the product page that shows a different battery marked "Twist" on it, they claim it has variable voltage between 3.2 and 4.2
it's too expensive for me but seems to be good, is it? the price for me is around $58
i was curious is there any website listing vaping materials with complete info about it? idk anything about protanks :/
 

VapeMate

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Actually... unbleached cotton is more hazardous

uhmmm, now i'm confused! some people say bleached, some say unbleached, some say silica and others talk about silicosis!
i'm a newbie guys, help me out of these confusions please
 

Rickajho

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thank you so much guys, now i'm disappointed of my ce5 and i'm looking for some rba
all i want is some lovely clouds while saving money and staying healthy
i looked around and found this
mp1u_k-m-t.jpg

seller says it is kangertech mini protank 3 with kanger tech evod vv battery + 5 coils
there are more picture on the product page that shows a different battery marked "Twist" on it, they claim it has variable voltage between 3.2 and 4.2
it's too expensive for me but seems to be good, is it? the price for me is around $58
i was curious is there any website listing vaping materials with complete info about it? idk anything about protanks :/

The images look legitimate. The Kanger web site is here: http://kanger-tech.com/ but I'm not sure how much help that will be to you. They do have info about this setup as a kit. But some of the older Kanger products that might be of interest to you aren't listed there any longer.

The battery marked "Twist" might be a Joyetech battery. Both the Kanger and the Joyetech would be variable voltage. If either of these products are genuine they would be good. At $58.00 that's rather pricey in USD, but I don't know your location so it's hard to comment further about the price.

Kanger makes an older model ProTank 2. The reason I'm mentioning that one is the PT2 and PT3 use different coils and they aren't interchangeable - differences in the physical shape. It's just that the older model PT2 coils are easier to take apart - consequently easier to rebuild. So if you see a deal on a ProTank 2 that would be an option for you to consider.

You didn't mention what battery you are using with the CE5 setup but that battery may be fine with a ProTank. Did the battery have a brand name or any info that came with it?
 

gbalkam

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Well.. best thing to do is google. That way you can confirm for yourself which answer is correct. All white cotton has been bleached. Not only to make it nice and white, but also to kill bacteria and mold that is present in natural cotton. Salt really doesn't vaporize but even then, any salt remaining from the bleach would be such a minuscule amount that it would be hard to even measure.

The main principal here, is bleach will react with anything, including air. Once it reacts, the chemistry changes and it breaks down into water and salt. Dust for example.. we know there is dust floating around, we can see it in the sun beam from windows.. bleach will react with that.. which causes it to break down.

Lots of info here...
https://www.epa.gov/ground-water-and-drinking-water/emergency-disinfection-drinking-water
 

gbalkam

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thank you so much guys, now i'm disappointed of my ce5 and i'm looking for some rba
all i want is some lovely clouds while saving money and staying healthy
i looked around and found this
mp1u_k-m-t.jpg

seller says it is kangertech mini protank 3 with kanger tech evod vv battery + 5 coils
there are more picture on the product page that shows a different battery marked "Twist" on it, they claim it has variable voltage between 3.2 and 4.2
it's too expensive for me but seems to be good, is it? the price for me is around $58
i was curious is there any website listing vaping materials with complete info about it? idk anything about protanks :/
WIN_20170323_095727.JPG WIN_20170323_095741.JPG WIN_20170323_095744.JPG

Clouds Bro?

I used the RBA mini that came with the tank.
a 3 strand parallel build using 32 ga stainless steel, single coil on 3.00 id core. 0.67 ohm at 35w.
A bit tricky to wrap while keeping all the strands straight, but a very nice build on this tank.

I generally look to FastTech for deals. Look for the word "Authentic" on mods and atomizers. They are a lot cheaper than retail (they sell for some manufacturers, mostly a lot of over produced items or items that orders were cancelled) I actually just bought 2 new RBA minis, 1 auth and 1 clone. Both are great!
 
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Rickajho

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uhmmm, now i'm confused! some people say bleached, some say unbleached, some say silica and others talk about silicosis!
i'm a newbie guys, help me out of these confusions please

Ok, let's not derail this guy.

Bleached? Unbleached? Organic? Sheesh - just about anything is better than smoking. No matter what kind of cotton some people are going to swear you have to boil and dry it first. Then you have the other clump who say it doesn't matter - just use it out of the bag. In theory, "organic" isn't going to be sprayed with pesticides in the field. But it's all processed in factories so... Confused yet? More?

I'd say get either kind, boil it and dry it if you are a bit on the OCD side, and don't other think it beyond that.

I personally think the "silicosis paranoia" regarding silica wick is overblown. It's wet with liquid when you use it. You keep it wet when vaping. So unless you are inclined to vape a bone dry wick and coil there won't be silica fibers floating all over the place to be inhaled.
 

gbalkam

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Ok, let's not derail this guy.

Bleached? Unbleached? Organic? Sheesh - just about anything is better than smoking. No matter what kind of cotton some people are going to swear you have to boil and dry it first. Then you have the other clump who say it doesn't matter - just use it out of the bag. In theory, "organic" isn't going to be sprayed with pesticides in the field. But it's all processed in factories so... Confused yet? More?

I'd say get either kind, boil it and dry it if you are a bit on the OCD side, and don't other think it beyond that.

I personally think the "silicosis paranoia" regarding silica wick is overblown. It's wet with liquid when you use it. You keep it wet when vaping. So unless you are inclined to vape a bone dry wick and coil there won't be silica fibers floating all over the place to be inhaled.

I always just use the Cotton Bacon. It is more expensive than just regular old organic cotton balls, or the sheets, but screw it. It's cheaper than smoking. And a package should last the Avg Joe about a year or so. $7.99 a year.. Oh, I think I can afford it. (LOL I use about a pack a month, but still...)
 

VapeMate

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ok guys, i was cleaning my coil and it broke, i had some nichrome here so i built a new coil, working well, tastes a lil bit different, my DMM is chinese and it has a messy ohm meter, i tested the original coil it was about 4.4(means abt 2.1 on this DMM) i made mine that reads 4.5(or actually 2.2)
now as i calculated, 2.2 ohms on this battery that seems to be 3.2v will draw abt 1.45a (4.65w), correct? but is that ok with this battery?! it has to be, but i'm scared of my DMM
anyone can tell me the max discharge rate for the battery i have?

EDIT: i had the nichrome from a hair heater, i was wrong, it tastes too bad! and the vapor somehow burns my eyes a little, just a little but it's annoying, it also made a bad sense in my mouth and throat.is that normal? :|
 
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Countrypami

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2.2 Ohms on an Ego should be fine.
I'm not a nichrome user so I cannot speak to it's safety on an ego... but... if it's causing a reaction you could be allergic to nickel and should not use nichrome wire.

Again, I'm going to recommend you upgrade to a tank that has replaceable heads.
 

gbalkam

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ok guys, i was cleaning my coil and it broke, i had some nichrome here so i built a new coil, working well, tastes a lil bit different, my DMM is chinese and it has a messy ohm meter, i tested the original coil it was about 4.4(means abt 2.1 on this DMM) i made mine that reads 4.5(or actually 2.2)
now as i calculated, 2.2 ohms on this battery that seems to be 3.2v will draw abt 1.45a (4.65w), correct? but is that ok with this battery?! it has to be, but i'm scared of my DMM
anyone can tell me the max discharge rate for the battery i have?

EDIT: i had the nichrome from a hair heater, i was wrong, it tastes too bad! and the vapor somehow burns my eyes a little, just a little but it's annoying, it also made a bad sense in my mouth and throat.is that normal? :|

No.. that ain't normal.
Pop down to your local shop and just ask if they have any shop wire they can sell you about 5 feet of. Explain you need just a little to get you started with building coils, because you are just learning and just want a little to practice on. They might charge you a couple bucks but more than likely will just give you a couple feet. Or you can get a 30 foot spool for about $8.00

My local shop gave me 10 feet to start out with, and I have since probably spent $200.00 on wire, cotton in addition to my bi-weekly $35 on juice. I still make my own juice, but I like those 2 bottles of premade.

God knows what kind of crap is on that hair heater wire. I mean, if you used it in the bathroom... there are tiny fecal particles in the air... which could have accumulated on the wire, so basically... you could be vaping poop.
 

VapeMate

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Again, I'm going to recommend you upgrade to a tank that has replaceable heads.

yeah, i decided to get a mod kit with rta atty, but curious what part is the head exactly?

you could be vaping poop.

yeah man, it really feels like that! the nichrome is clean for sure but it's poop anyway!
people here don't even know what kanthal is! most of them ridicule me for calling nichrome as kanthal! they said nothing called kanthal exist and the only thermal wire is nichrome! so i grabbed my flamethrower....

btw, this thread more likely introduced me and my equipment! so you guys can help me with this thread
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-vaper-shopping-list.314241/

i really appreciate it guys, you helped me a lot, hope i can give back something to you and this awesome community, thank you so much
 

gbalkam

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Kanthal is the trademark for a family of iron-chromium-aluminium (FeCrAl) alloys
Nichrome (NiCr) generally refers to any alloy of nickle, chromium and often iron and/or other elements or substances

Both are resistance wires, but.. NiCr has slightly lower resistance than Kanthal. Meaning for cloud coils, you get more surface area per ohm.

Tell those local hicks, to grab a friggin wiki. Kanthal covers a variety of resistance alloys which are patented under the NAME Kanthal by Sandvik
 

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