I understand that you get longer battery life from batteries in parallel rather than in series. Does this concept apply to regulated mods as well?
I hate to be rude, but you don't know what you're talking about. Watt setting on a vw device dictates how fast the batteries drain, build resistance is irrelevant.I don't know how many dual battery parallel regulated mods are out there. I've only seen them in series. That's the only way to get crazy high wattages.
On a series regulated mod, building your coils so that the highest voltage = the wattage you want to run at will give you the lowest amperage and longest battery life. For example, if your mod is capable of 7V max and you want to run at 100W. Build your coils at 0.49 ohms. That way your amperage is only 14.2. If you built your coils at 0.2 and ran it at 100W, the amperage is 22.3.
Not that you asked. Sorry.
So what would be the most battery conservative way to run a low ohm build on a vw device?I hate to be rude, but you don't know what you're talking about. Watt setting on a vw device dictates how fast the batteries drain, build resistance is irrelevant.
Thank ya sirTurn down the watts.
Build resistance has jack shit to do with how fast the batteries drain. Turning up the watts drains them faster, turning down the watts drains them slower. That's it.
Well the edit was certainly less rude and more informative than the original post. I appreciate that. I would like to know more. All I know is what I've read.I hate to be rude, but you don't know what you're talking about. Watt setting on a vw device dictates how fast the batteries drain, build resistance is irrelevant.
Learn and vape on brotha. That's what I'm doing.Well the edit was certainly less rude and more informative than the original post. I appreciate that. I would like to know more. All I know is what I've read.
I thought li-ion batteries were capable of X milliamps per hour. I foolishly assumed that what I had read was right and that a lower amperage would yield longer battery life. 2500mAh battery = 2.5A for one hour = 1.25A for two hours (grossly oversimplifying). I obviously don't understand the intricacies of the various methods of modifying battery voltage and how that affects the drain of the battery.
Anyways, I have seen my original point explained very logically before but I was foolishly trusting someone that had (A) a computer, (B) an internet connection, (C) Ohm's terminology and (D) NOTHING GODDAMN ELSE. This post http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ow-resistance-high-resistance-efficiency.html explains it pretty well. I missed the crucial part where the math is even simpler than Ohm's law.
Without doing hours more research... I'm thinking BoomStick is right. I don't know what the fuck I'm talking about. I'm stubborn though. I'll figure this shit out someday. Real good. For now, I'm going to go set my new IPV mini II to 45W and vape that mofo till the battery is dead (aka 3.2V). Then I'm going to put that battery in my Xtar charger set to 0.25A, not 1.0A because some asshole with a network connection told me that was better.
This is why I have 7 mechs and 3 regulated mods (1 of which that's 10 hours old). I'm better at mechs. They don't fuck with me. I build a load, they provide voltage. No funny business.
You don't need to build low ohms to get great vape on a regulated device simply because you can just up the wattage. The reason that you build low ohms on mechs is because the battery will only give a max of 4.2 volts so lowering the ohms increases the wattage drawn from the batterySo what would be the most battery conservative way to run a low ohm build on a vw device?
It is indeedCreating a constant supply of voltage from batteries that have a constantly changing voltage requires circuitry that isn't as simple and straight forward as a mech. Many people (including some well known youtube reviewers) don't understand or are even aware of the differences between power consumption in unregulated versus regulated devices. The steamengine creator does. Go to their battery drain section. Fill in the blanks for a regulated device. Use whatever watt setting you want. Keep the watts the same and input different build resistances. The run time doesn't change. The only way to change run time is to change the watts you input. Basically it's watts in equals watts out (minus a little convertor loss due to less than 100% efficiency). Hopefully this is somewhat helpful.
What gauge wire are you using for that build?You don't need to build low ohms to get great vape on a regulated device simply because you can just up the wattage. The reason that you build low ohms on mechs is because the battery will only give a max of 4.2 volts so lowering the ohms increases the wattage drawn from the battery
A coil on a mech pulls from the battery
A coil on a regulated is pushed by the battery
And a coil building at 1 ohm and running 50 watts will save your battery and vape very similar to a .2 at 80 watts
The battery works harder at lower ohms decreasing safety and battery life
To add my current build is a dual 10 wrap .6 ohm build on a sigelli 150 watt I vape it between 50 and 60 watts
It was helpful. Thank you. I was oversimplifying the circuit and thinking that less amps = longer battery life. Another part of my confusion was the output wattage of the battery being seemingly unrelated to the load. In my mech-based thought process, the coil is the load. Nope! The regulating chip is the load. The coil beyond it doesn't matter (so long as its within the operating range of the chip).Creating a constant supply of voltage from batteries that have a constantly changing voltage requires circuitry that isn't as simple and straight forward as a mech. Many people (including some well known youtube reviewers) don't understand or are even aware of the differences between power consumption in unregulated versus regulated devices. The steamengine creator does. Go to their battery drain section. Fill in the blanks for a regulated device. Use whatever watt setting you want. Keep the watts the same and input different build resistances. The run time doesn't change. The only way to change run time is to change the watts you input. Basically it's watts in equals watts out (minus a little convertor loss due to less than 100% efficiency). Hopefully this is somewhat helpful.
Sorry for the misinformation!Learn and vape on brotha. That's what I'm doing.
That's a really good way of looking at it.It was helpful. Thank you. I was oversimplifying the circuit and thinking that less amps = longer battery life. Another part of my confusion was the output wattage of the battery being seemingly unrelated to the load. In my mech-based thought process, the coil is the load. Nope! The regulating chip is the load. The coil beyond it doesn't matter (so long as its within the operating range of the chip).
A fair re-wording?
Hooray. I do A/V work for a living so I was just imagining the regulating chip as a (A) magically-small (B) powerful-ass (C) intelligent potentiometer... basically. Which it's most definitely fucking not.That's a really good way of looking at it.