I've read some tutorials on wrapping them, but how hard is it to do? It kinda terrifies me, but I'm not ditching my VTC5's for a tiny nick, that can be re wrapped. I'll have to obtain a hair dryer. I know that.
It's simple and only takes a few minutes once you know how. Cut it to length or approx length. I use a heatgun which you can pick up on ebay for $10. Most have two heat settings which is useful. I used to wave a wind proof lighter over it lol. I also use the shrink wrap to seal off the ends of my lipo batteries as it keeps the wire connections safely in place. I learned from the video of this tutorial. I had a long look for the video but can only find his printed copy:
I'm actually not even sure if i was shocked or if it was just a massive sudden instantaneous flash of heat. It was fast, and the base of the Taifun was very, very warm - hot even. Other toppers would work fine but whatever i'd put under the 'fun would just singe me instantly when i fired it up. And that's two different batteries too. I'm pretty sure it's the dang center contact on the 'fun's 510. It's gotten janky and soft. It looks like the contact just screws down into a tightly coiled spring set into a delrin insulator. It's a clone. I haven't gotten any further than that.
Thanks man. I will look over that, I've already looked over a few tutorials, I'm just always paranoid with all things batteries. One of them I don't even think made it through the wrap, and both batts have tiny nicks, but rather safe than sorry. My main concern is how the wrap will settle over the top and bottom. Both nicks are on the top edge. I'm guessing the heat just forms it into place?
Well, so long as you cut the wrap with some overlap, when applying the heat it kinda naturally just folds over and around the ends into shape. Will you take the original wrap off first? I would else you'll make the battery size thicker.
Gotcha, that's what I thought. I'm thinking I'm gonna leave the wrap on, since they are almost flawless, and my mods can definitely fit the extra wrap. I'll double check with electrical tape first, but they all have plenty of excess room in em. I'd rather leave it intact if I can, and I think it will work. I'm glad I can buy this stuff locally, gonna try to pick some up tomorrow.Well, so long as you cut the wrap with some overlap, when applying the heat it kinda naturally just folds over and around the ends into shape. Will you take the original wrap off first? I would else you'll make the battery size thicker.
I have to go as its late here and I'm hungry for all things peanut butter related lol. And sorry if we half hijacked your thread jezzy babes
I'm vaping on my brand new EHPro Taifun as i type this. #solid
Nah! It's great to learn about batteries!Lol. Just caught the jezzy babes comment. You fucking Brit!
And yeah, sorry for half thread jacking you buddy, though I think it is somewhat pertinent at least to the original topic.
Did you ever throw it on the ohm meter and see what it was shorting out to? 0.01 ohm or lower perhaps!? This is why I encourage folks to use the best batteries out there, regardless if they need high discharge for low ohm. If you short, or your regulated device glitches out, your much better off!! Sony's can burst to 150A+(safely) for short periods, no other battery out there claims anything over 35A or 40A burst rating. This is why I stick with Sony's!!
There are a number of things, and I'm no big expert on shorts but I know it can be caused by a bad or broken insulator/center pin, your coil touching the metal body or your atty, excessive gunk and junk on your coil and not tightening down your +/- connections well enough...There are probably more so I'll let others chime in.Serious question: how does an atty or a tank get *shorted out*? I've been having lingering issues since my Cana died and it seems like it took my Mega and Nautilus with it. Both of them display either Shorted or Check Atomizer on another perfectly working Cana, and displays NON on an MVP. I tried putting said tanks on yet another Cana and the ohms keep jumping or is way off - much like a few days before the first one died...
There are many possibilities, and im sure i dont know them all. If your 510 pin is touching the outer area with the threading, positive 510, negative threading area, you will short. If your positive deck in a kayfun for instance twists and touches the negative, you will short. I just got two kayfun v3 blacks, and the adjustable 510 is too adjustable, it would back in, and make little contact, and that caused crazy ohm readings, all over the place. It reads non if the pin makes no contact.Serious question: how does an atty or a tank get *shorted out*? I've been having lingering issues since my Cana died and it seems like it took my Mega and Nautilus with it. Both of them display either Shorted or Check Atomizer on another perfectly working Cana, and displays NON on an MVP. I tried putting said tanks on yet another Cana and the ohms keep jumping or is way off - much like a few days before the first one died...
Lol, beat me to it. I type too much.
I mean, what im referring to is specific to the rbas and rdas i have, but the same could happen regarding positive touching negative on any tank id suppose. If your 510 pin touches the outer portion, it doesnt matter if its an rba or not. Also, if your pin isnt making good contact your ohms will fluctuate like crazy, and if the pin makes no contact it will be a short. So, it could happen with any atty id think, just in different ways.
Yeah, that's a huge break point for many devices. In mine, the insulator is clearly just shot.
I was just referring to the check atomizer error.
I am charging my second pair I've Received this week of HE2's and mine have a clear sticker on them. It's covering the top line of lettering, but the second reads NO92DO22AG They are legit for sure, I've bought legit VTC5's from this guy before. If you want I could remove one of the stickers and get the top row of lettering for you.
Yeah, it's a white, kinda light grey maybe, ring. Not sure it's paper, but sounds correct.
Coolness. I'm not really a dripper or sub ohmer myself, as I said, I'm a 1.2 ohm kayfun guy, so they more than fit my needs. I'm pleased with em, and glad you are as well.
Can't hurt to try, I don't like that high myself. When I switched to a larger diameter, the same 6 wraps on the 30 gauge I was using got me around 1.6-1.8, and it just wasn't warm or flavorful enough. Battery life improved, as did juice consumption, though. On a mech 1.2 just seems perfect.
I have a kayfun that has the pin just barely below the threading, and it hasn't been an issue for the months I've had it, though it worries me, too. Last build I tried backing it out a tad, holding the deck in place obviously, but it just left the deck loose, so I have to leave it as is. I makes contact, just it's definitely on the edge.
Oh, they're all dated, and numbered per each date of receipt and initial charge order, but I roll blue magic marker style, fine tip Sharpie to be specific
I might need to just number them all 1-7 in the order I have them in now, but they are all dated.
Can you do the same on a Nautilus or an Aerotank Mega? The pins are below the threading as well.
Don't have either nor have I used either, but you want the 510 pin to be a bit below the threading so it makes good contact with your device. Maybe our wording is backwards from eachother? I'm saying the 510 pin should protrude beyond the threading a bit. And again, I have no experience with those tanks, so somebody else will need to answer.Can you do the same on a Nautilus or an Aerotank Mega? The pins are below the threading as well.
good questionCan you do the same on a Nautilus or an Aerotank Mega? The pins are below the threading as well.
Yeah, they seem pretty solid. I've mostly only been vaping on my Taifun though, and i haven't rebuilt it since the other day, and it's maybe a little less than an ideal build. I think my cellucotton wick is too dense. I just started using that stuff too.