Sigelei 30w Mini

[Mike H.]

Couldnt hold off any longer and just bought one in silver from 101vapes for 38 bucks shipped...Sigh will the madness never end...Now i need a subtank mini and MAYBE ill be done for awhile.

Since ive been here in my short period of time, ive purchased the following.
Used kanger protank 2 (full size)
kanger V3 air flow controllers for the protank 2,s (regular size and mini.)
Protank 2 mini clone
EMOW tank clone
huge bag of used kanger coil heads.
A Vamo V2 clone
Kayfun lite +
2- Taifun GT's
Taifun GT nano tank kit, metal nano top, GT v2 base and a drip tip
Complete Diy e juice supplies
Cloupor 30w clone
MVP 20 watt

And now this Sigelei 30w.

 

[FL_David]

That is a fun list.
I too bought a Sigelei Mini 30W in black on Amazon. I used $48.48 (w/shipping) in gift certificates.
It is my first box mod and even with the silicone cover on, it felt uncomfortable for the first day. Now it feels good since finding a couple different ways of holding it. I had been so used to tubes to vape.
I like it allot. I don't buy allot of new and shiny vape gear as I have a flavoring addiction. My Aqua v2 needs to be recoiled, so I will see what it is like to vape around .3 ohms.
My "old" black I-Atty looks and works well on the Sigelei.
Since my stainless steel Vamo v6 took a fall and now works better then when it was new, I feel I am good for quite awhile.

 

[Spike64]

I just got my Sigelei Mini in vapemail yesterday. Got it for $39.95 with free shipping from No Leaf Vapor. 101Vape was still out of stock at the time. I wanted another small carry around mod with at least 30 watts of power and being impressed with the quality of my Sigelei 100+, I decided on the Mini. Cant say it was a mistake because the quality, fit and finish, and solid feel of the Mini is excellent and on par with the 100+. Now...I'm waiting on a JWrap I ordered for it to arrive....lol

 

[ej1024]

I'm waiting for replacement
VAPE ON

 

[Spike64]

Now i need a subtank mini and MAYBE ill be done for awhile.

Dude...it never ends...the "this will be the last vape gear I buy for awhile" thingy rates up there with the worlds biggest lies...lol

I used to think the same way...now, my collection has gotten so stupid large with more on the way and no end in sight...it would take me some serious finger numbing typing to list it all and I suspect I'm far from alone on this...these deals blogs are killing my wallet...lol

 

[Mike H.]

Dude...it never ends...the "this will be the last vape gear I buy for awhile" thingy rates up there with the worlds biggest lies...lol

I used to think the same way...now, my collection has gotten so stupid large with more on the way and no end in sight...it would take me some serious finger numbing typing to list it all and I suspect I'm far from alone on this...these deals blogs are killing my wallet...lol

Im trying to stay away from mech mods and rda's so that will save me some lol...The kayfun and GT are excellent tanks so far but since im a kanger fan i gotta have atleast one of the newer tanks...Still not sure if i want the mini or the nano..lol

 

[Spike64]

Im trying to stay away from mech mods and rda's so that will save me some lol...The kayfun and GT are excellent tanks so far but since im a kanger fan i gotta have atleast one of the newer tanks...Still not sure if i want the mini or the nano..lol

if you want the ability to rebuild and higher juice capacity go for the Mini which comes with a RBA deck as well as takes prebuilt coils and is 22mm...if you want a 18mm atty that only takes prebuilt coils go for the Nano...

 

[Mike H.]

if you want the ability to rebuild and higher juice capacity go for the Mini which comes with a RBA deck as well as takes prebuilt coils and is 22mm...if you want a 18mm atty that only takes prebuilt coils go for the Nano...

Im kindof liking the nano...dont need anymore decks to build on..the kayfun and gt are enough...Considering the coils are atleast rebuildable on the nano it should fit my needs..good for 25w with the .5 coil from what i hear but also a very hot vape...i like barely warm...So the 1.2ohm with between 10 to 15w should be all im after with it or make some that are 1.5ohm.

 

[Mike H.]

Sigh...no usps tracking update...maybe in a couple more days.

 

[Vapedude]

my new box mod

 

[Mike H.]

So about 2hrs after my last tracking post i look again as im ocd like that and it was updated to the last place my vape mail goes b4 coming to my small town.

Picked the package about an hour ago..popped in a freshly charged vtc5 and played around with it for a bit.

A SMALL REVIEW:

What i found fun was being able to pre set 5 memory settings.
It came with a black slicone cover and usb charge cable.

I tried the dc/dc mode and was really quite disappointed...it doesnt really hit any harder than the 10w i had it set for in pwm mode

Ive had a nemesis before and it flat out crackled my protank 2 where this sigelei seemed as if it was very limited as to how much power it allowed and wasnt really all that great.

Another thing i dont like is the 7 maybe 8 second fire limit which is also active in dc/dc mode.

The cloupor clone i bought has a 15 second time limit allowing for much bigger hits

Im not sure i would buy another one of these to be honest...i noticed as well after installing one tank very carefully it still scratched the chrome top very easily...Its a very soft chrome.

I honestly like my cheap cloupor over this sigelei and it disappoints me greatly.

 

[Spike64]

Bummer dude...I really like my mini alot...no issues at all like you are experiencing and I find the quality for the price to be very good...I havent had the scratching issue on top either and I have a bad habit of over-tightening tanks...hits hard as my other 30 watters, but I didn't buy it for hard hits...I was running a Nautilus on it and recently the Silo...its my everyday carry around mod...I just put a wrap on it...

You were running a Protank 2 on a Nemesis?...at what resistance coil?...seems like it would tank some time to ramp up a standard coil on a mech mod...

 

[UncleRJ]

Bummer dude...I really like my mini alot...no issues at all like you are experiencing and I find the quality for the price to be very good...I havent had the scratching issue on top either and I have a bad habit of over-tightening tanks...hits hard as my other 30 watters, but I didn't buy it for hard hits...I was running a Nautilus on it and recently the Silo...its my everyday carry around mod...I just put a wrap on it...

You were running a Protank 2 on a Nemesis?...at what resistance coil?...seems like it would tank some time to ramp up a standard coil on a mech mod...

That's a nice looking mini mod. Trying to talk myself into getting one

 

[Mike H.]

My guess is my dc/dc mode doesnt work at all....i press the fire button and down button at the same time as per instructions...It changes the display to dc/dc mode but it still fires at my last wattage setting...Shrugs.

 

[Spike64]

Well, I like mine....you might or might not...never know....lol

 

[Mike H.]

Spike, try it on yours and let me know how it works....set your wattage to like 7 watts and take a hit in pwm mode..then switch to dc/dc and take another hit...bet you get the same low wattage/voltage hit.

Dc to DC is supposed to eliminate the circuit board and work as a mechanical style mod.

 

[Spike64]

Spike, try it on yours and let me know how it works....set your wattage to like 7 watts and take a hit in pwm mode..then switch to dc/dc and take another hit...bet you get the same low wattage/voltage hit.

Dc to DC is supposed to eliminate the circuit board and work as a mechanical style mod.

I did...but I'm vaping a 2.1 ohm coil in a Silo on it....in mech mode its gonna hit like shit at that resistance...If I'm running it in DC-DC mode, I'm gonna be subohming...using a dripper or a low resistance coil on a subtank or something like that...I generally run it in regulated mode with a 2 ohm coil at around 9-10 watts...

BTW...just read my banner....750 days...apparently, I've not smoked 30K ciggies....I havent save a penny though....lol

 

[Mike H.]

I did...but I'm vaping a 2.1 ohm coil in a Silo on it....in mech mode its gonna hit like shit at that resistance...If I'm running it in DC-DC mode, I'm gonna be subohming...using a dripper or a low resistance coil on a subtank or something like that...I generally run it in regulated mode with a 2 ohm coil at around 9-10 watts...

Im missing something somewhere...i took a hit off the nemesis you have now with a protank 2 mini with 1.8ohm and it about choked me with a really hot vape and more vapor than ive ever gotten on anything up to that point in my vaping experience.

I thought dc to dc would give a stronger vape in general... im running 1.6 ohms on my coil now in dc to dc mode and its nothing near what the nemesis gave me with higher ohms...Its giving me what my last watttage/voltage setting was in pwm mode...same exact vape.

 

[InMyImage]

Spike, try it on yours and let me know how it works....set your wattage to like 7 watts and take a hit in pwm mode..then switch to dc/dc and take another hit...bet you get the same low wattage/voltage hit.

Dc to DC is supposed to eliminate the circuit board and work as a mechanical style mod.

Do you have a voltage drop meter? I bet it is pretty high compared to a mech.

Also, could you post up some more pics shoing it side by side with you MVP? I've been thinging about the Sig Mini for my wife.

 

[Spike64]

Im missing something somewhere...i took a hit off the nemesis you have now with a protank 2 mini with 1.8ohm and it about choked me with a really hot vape and more vapor than ive ever gotten on anything up to that point in my vaping experience.

I thought dc to dc would give a stronger vape in general despite the ohms... im running 1.6 ohms on my coil now in dc to dc mode and its nothing near what the nemesis gave me with higher ohms...Its giving me what my last watttage/voltage setting was in pwm mode...same exact vape.

I'm not sure how you pulled that off....not many folks are vaping protanks on "mechs"...it takes much longer to "ramp up" power to heat up coils with that high of resistances...people generally use lower sub ohm resistances because an unregulated device will warm up the coil much faster...pop a dripper on it at .5 to .7 ohms and give it a shot....

Frankly, with a regulated device that will handle very low resistances as well as higher resistances, there's very little to no reasons to run it in mech mode IMHO...

 

[InMyImage]

Im missing something somewhere...i took a hit off the nemesis you have now with a protank 2 mini with 1.8ohm and it about choked me with a really hot vape and more vapor than ive ever gotten on anything up to that point in my vaping experience.

Sounds like there is something wrong with your coil. Even assuming zero voltage loss, a 1.8 ohm coil on a mech is going to generate 10 watts. Coicidentally, the same wattage you were comparing to the Sig setting which is most likely why you don't see a difference in the hit.

 

[Mike H.]

Sounds like there is something wrong with your coil. Even assuming zero voltage loss, a 1.8 ohm coil on a mech is going to generate 10 watts. Coicidentally, the same wattage you were comparing to the Sig setting which is most likely why you don't see a difference in the hit.

Im gonna set it to its lowest wattage in pwm mode then try dc mode again..dc mode SHOULD give me a difference then but im not thinking it will...lol

 

[Mike H.]

Ok...the lowest i can set wattage is 5 watts...took a vape....Switched to dc mode and got the same weak vape which is NOT compareable to setting it to 10w in pwm mode.

I either have a defect or the dc mode is total bullshit hype on this model.

 

[Mike H.]

Youre supposed to be able to fire down to .3 in dc mode according to sigelei website specs and .5 in pwm mode...Not that ill fire a .3 ohm anything but the dc mode isnt working.

MAYBE the device has to detect lower than .5 ohm to work in dc mode?

Guess a call or email to sigelei is in order to find out whats up.

 

[Spike64]

I dont recall DC-DC mode as being something that's been hyped...I didnt realize the feature existed till I got it and I'll never use it...most people buy these devices for their regulated features...perhaps you should look into unregulated box mods or at least inquire with the manufacturer concerning any issue you believe might be happening...

 

[Zamazam]

That's a nice looking mini mod. Trying to talk myself into getting one

go ahead and buy me Ah, UncleRJ, time to consider money buy me! buy me! buy me! I'll power your Kayfuns with out fail and the modest collection you have buy me now damn it! I'm cheap and can be had with free shipping! All this new vaping technology is making better and better vapes. Just do it tightwad! Buy me!

 

[Mike H.]

I dont recall DC-DC mode as being something that's been hyped...I didnt realize the feature existed till I got it and I'll never use it...most people buy these devices for their regulated features...perhaps you should look into unregulated box mods or at least inquire with the manufacturer concerning any issue you believe might be happening...

I bought it for the regulated feat7re but becuase it said it had dc to dc function i figured well cool..if i decide to subohm i can fire it like a mech of i wanted and not have the pcb limitation.

I certainly would buy anothe nemesis for lower tham .5 subohm but this was suppose to be a 2 in one feature of which one isnt working worth shit...lol

 

[Spike64]

After doing some quick Goggle-ing and reading, I believe DC-DC mode is intended pretty much to allow you to vape in mech mode at lower resistances than chip regulation will allow....it seems to be pretty useless for higher resistances...still researching tho...

 

[Spike64]

go ahead and buy me Ah, UncleRJ, time to consider money buy me! buy me! buy me! I'll power your Kayfuns with out fail and the modest collection you have buy me now damn it! I'm cheap and can be had with free shipping! All this new vaping technology is making better and better vapes. Just do it tightwad! Buy me!

Careful...he's already on the edge...it aint gonna take much to empty his wallet on a new mod....lol

 

[Zamazam]

Careful...he's already on the edge...it aint gonna take much to empty his wallet on a new mod....lol

You're right. That big Sigelei 100W he loves is quite pocket friendly, if he wears shirts with cargo pockets...

 

[rdsok]

Straighten out some info...

DC-DC means that it converts from one DC voltage value to another higher DC voltage... it isn't the same as mech mode where there is a direct battery output without a conversion. In otherwords... it boosts the voltage. Most of these newer mods, when in DC-DC mode can not reduce the output below the voltage of the battery... this is where the PWM mode is needed on these types of mods. Typically... the PWM mode is used to buck... or drop the voltage output... once the setting is at or above the voltage of the battery... it switches back to a DC output like the DC-DC mode has.

DC-DC type changes can actually drop voltages... it's just that it's typically inefficient and wastes a lot of power to do it. Most do it through a transformer or a resistive load... both of these create a lot of heat in the process. Both are also old school methods... there are newer methods that I've heard about but don't know much on since they came later after my schooling ( long ago )

 

[Spike64]

You're right. That big Sigelei 100W he loves is quite pocket friendly, if he wears shirts with cargo pockets...

LOL....thats the reason I carry a smaller mod around and the Sig 100+ stays home...too damn big for my front slacks pocket...lol

 

[Spike64]

Straighten out some info...

DC-DC means that it converts from one DC voltage value to another higher DC voltage... it isn't the same as mech mode where there is a direct battery output without a conversion. In otherwords... it boosts the voltage. Most of these newer mods, when in DC-DC mode can not reduce the output below the voltage of the battery... this is where the PWM mode is needed on these types of mods. Typically... the PWM mode is used to buck... or drop the voltage output... once the setting is at or above the voltage of the battery... it switches back to a DC output like the DC-DC mode has.

DC-DC type changes can actually drop voltages... it's just that it's typically inefficient and wastes a lot of power to do it. Most do it through a transformer or a resistive load... both of these create a lot of heat in the process. Both are also old school methods... there are newer methods that I've heard about but don't know much on since they came later after my schooling ( long ago )

Thank you for that...appreciated...

 

[Mike H.]

Straighten out some info...

DC-DC means that it converts from one DC voltage value to another higher DC voltage... it isn't the same as mech mode where there is a direct battery output without a conversion. In otherwords... it boosts the voltage. Most of these newer mods, when in DC-DC mode can not reduce the output below the voltage of the battery... this is where the PWM mode is needed on these types of mods. Typically... the PWM mode is used to buck... or drop the voltage output... once the setting is at or above the voltage of the battery... it switches back to a DC output like the DC-DC mode has.

DC-DC type changes can actually drop voltages... it's just that it's typically inefficient and wastes a lot of power to do it. Most do it through a transformer or a resistive load... both of these create a lot of heat in the process. Both are also old school methods... there are newer methods that I've heard about but don't know much on since they came later after my schooling ( long ago )

I suppose i was expecting something different from it.

I believed i could run directly off battery power like a mech mod.

If i installed a freshly charged battery i should have just over 4.2v...When i set my wattage in pwm mode to say 8 watts it shows im using less than 4.2 volts...so i was assuming if i switched to dc mode i would get all 4.2v but this isnt the case....I get the same exact vape as with what i had my wattage set to in pwm mode...Now if i go much higher in wattage it shows im using alot more than 4.2v and get some pretty big clouds like i did on the nemesis i used to own.

The volt meter actually jumps up only 1 tenth of a volt higher while vaping in dc mode over pwm mode which is what i wasnt understanding...If im at 3.7v in pwm mode it shows 3.8 in dc mode.

i was under the impression it bypassed the board entirely and worked as a mech mod.

Thanks for explaining that to me...Much appreciated.

 

[rdsok]

Several things here... all in general and not brand/model specific.

The meters and chargers that we use ... are never 100% accurate. So just because your charger thought it was at 4.2v doesn't mean it really was... Likewise... the meter measuring it also could be off a bit as well. So some will read a little low, some will be spot on and some a little high. Only lab quality components that have been calibrated can be considered fairly accurate within whatever % of error they are capable of.

Next... the batteries themselves... Just because we charge them until our chargers say they are full... doesn't mean they will retain that charge ( whatever it is/was ) for long. I'm uncertain about the types of lithium cells we are using and how long their charge will last but as an example... the LiPo batteries ( another type of lithium battery ) can loose a considerable amount of that charge in as few as 29 days. Other rechargeables differ but still have the same effect. This is why they recommend nonrechargeable batteries as the ones you use for emergency uses... Primary cells ( non-rechargeable ) don't loose their charge as quickly as a rechargeable type will. The older of a rechargeable lithium battery will often drop down a 1/10v or two quickly right after coming off of a charger.

Finally... the connections the battery has as well as the attie's we put on the PV's will have some resistance that further changes the values you will measure. On mech mods, it's referred to as the voltage drop they exhibit... in short it just means they have higher resistance contact points in those areas ( battery and/or atty side )

 

[Mike H.]

Several things here... all in general and not brand/model specific.

The meters and chargers that we use ... are never 100% accurate. So just because your charger thought it was at 4.2v doesn't mean it really was... Likewise... the meter measuring it also could be off a bit as well. So some will read a little low, some will be spot on and some a little high. Only lab quality components that have been calibrated can be considered fairly accurate within whatever % of error they are capable of.

Next... the batteries themselves... Just because we charge them until our chargers say they are full... doesn't mean they will retain that charge ( whatever it is/was ) for long. I'm uncertain about the types of lithium cells we are using and how long their charge will last but as an example... the LiPo batteries ( another type of lithium battery ) can loose a considerable amount of that charge in as few as 29 days. Other rechargeables differ but still have the same effect. This is why they recommend nonrechargeable batteries as the ones you use for emergency uses... Primary cells ( non-rechargeable ) don't loose their charge as quickly as a rechargeable type will. The older of a rechargeable lithium battery will often drop down a 1/10v or two quickly right after coming off of a charger.

Finally... the connections the battery has as well as the attie's we put on the PV's will have some resistance that further changes the values you will measure. On mech mods, it's referred to as the voltage drop they exhibit... in short it just means they have higher resistance contact points in those areas ( battery and/or atty side )

I get most of that...As if fire the cloupor or sigelei it shows the voltage equvalent as per the ohm of the coil...8 watts shows me 3.9v with a 2.0ohm coil...8.7w shows me 4.2v etc....all the way to above 7 volts with 30w.

The one tenth of a volt increase is just something i noticed that changed between pwm and dc mode on the sigelei.

 

[rdsok]

I get most of that...As if fire the cloupor or sigelei it shows the voltage equvalent as per the ohm of the coil...8 watts shows me 3.9v with a 2.0ohm coil...8.7w shows me 4.2v etc....all the way to above 7 volts with 30w.

The one tenth of a volt increase is just something i noticed that changed between pwm and dc mode on the sigelei.

Yeah... ya never know what a person may or may not know... and others certainly haven't heard it... so it never hurts to mention it.

Something about "mech mode" if it actually had one... it wouldn't have any wattage/voltage adjustments available... only straight battery voltage. So any DC-DC setting that allows an adjustment is regulated. There are some mods that have all three... PWM, DC-DC and mech... I just don't recall which ones they are.

 

[Mike H.]

I was thinking dc to dc was a form of mech mode...i must have not understood it correctly...I can still adjust wattage up or down in dc mode...Oh well...i learned something today if anything...lol

If anyone out there thought dc mode meant mechanical mode LIkE I DID then this may not be the product for you if this was a feature you were looking for or understood it as being.

Still some features i like on it however and i may or may not keep it...Love the 5 programmable pre set feature and the magnetic battery door..The silicone boot is ok and like it came with a usb cable...Otherwise, it vapes like my mvp20w or cheap cloupor or vamo v2 at the same 8 to 12watts power.

 

[Spike64]

Otherwise, it vapes like my mvp20w or cheap cloupor or vamo v2 at the same 8 to 12watts power.

Most mods do vape the same at the same power...there are some exceptions though...the Provari for instance delivers a very smooth vape without the "rattlesnake" effect on atties at this range as a result of its flat line near DC output...the MVP is similar in that respect...you'll notice a distinct difference between the vape quality of an atty sitting on a Provari compared to a Vamo...of course neither will do over 15 watts and the MVP2 is limited to 11 watts so if your vaping style requires more, youll need something else...I've found that my Subtank with a .5 ohm coil performs really well at 25-30 watts....gonna pick up a Subtank Mini for the Sig Mini for just that reason...

 

[Mike H.]

Most mods do vape the same at the same power...there are some exceptions though...the Provari for instance delivers a very smooth vape without the "rattlesnake" effect on atties at this range as a result of its flat line near DC output...the MVP is similar in that respect...you'll notice a distinct difference between the vape quality of an atty sitting on a Provari compared to a Vamo...of course neither will do over 15 watts and the MVP2 is limited to 11 watts so if your vaping style requires more, youll need something else...I've found that my Subtank with a .5 ohm coil performs really well at 25-30 watts....gonna pick up a Subtank Mini for the Sig Mini for just that reason...

Yea...20w supports 1.2 ohms or higher...15w is good for 1.5 or higher...11w is probably good for 1.7 or higher.

Just wanted a good 30w to dabble in the sub ohm territory...i suppose i have 2 now i can do this with..lol

I Guess one device needs a subtank mini or nano and the other an RDA...lol

 

[Robert B]

LOL....thats the reason I carry a smaller mod around and the Sig 100+ stays home...too damn big for my front slacks pocket...lol

Put a 26650 mod in that front pocket, and the girls will follow you around

 

[Spike64]

Put a 26650 mod in that front pocket, and the girls will follow you around

Just what I need...even more girls following me around...

 

[Trina]

Im trying to stay away from mech mods and rda's so that will save me some lol...The kayfun and GT are excellent tanks so far but since im a kanger fan i gotta have atleast one of the newer tanks...Still not sure if i want the mini or the nano..lol

I have all kanger! 4, 3 different Mimi's& 1 bigger drip! Love them!