Still waiting for my nemesis. Quick question.

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people. Still waiting for my brass nemesis clone from Fasttech, Monday is a public holiday so no post,
It shold arrive next week though.

Now, in regulated mods, I haven't had to worry much about it, as the mod either wont work, or its not that bad and still works, and that thing is something called Sag.

I understand, the battery may show just under full, but when you fire it, I see the battery drop to near empty ( With my LG HG2, I think I have a duff one, none of my other batteries sag so much).

in a mech, is there much more about sag I need to know. I guess with sag, my batteries will stop producing as much vapour around 3.5-3.7V, and thats when I swap out.

Just checking I know everything about a mech and how it works, before I actually use it. I DEFINITELY would not use one of these as a starter device. I am 5 regulateds in, (granted, that is one a month lol) but only now feel safe enough with my building skills, no shorts and such, to use a mech.

PS-I need a good Ohmeter. I currently have one called a manvapour-its off slightly compared to when I put it on my device. So I will use the Ohmeter first to get to the general area, then one of my mods built in for tweaking.

Seing as I am building at .1's of ohms, it needs to be quite accurate. I won't be building below 0.4, may go to 0.3 when I am more comfortable with the mech, but 0.6 produces enough watts for me, so I don't see myself needing to go too low.

 

[State O' Flux]

As a mech is nothing more than a battery holder/contact switch... the number one issue is conductivity, or voltage drop (VD).
A well made, well designed tube mech will have a very low, to nearly un-measurable VD... however, there are still plenty of high end mods with less than stellar conductivity, and as expected, surprisingly few clone mods with excellent conductivity.
The problem, more often than not, is close tolerance (or rather, lack of it), conductive quality of materials/platings and frequent substitutions of high cost materials for lower cost. Fairly thorough mech mod diagnostics and testing can be found here.

As all batteries have some level of sag, you can only measure true, device only VD with a continuous power supply, load and high conductivity battery filler/substitute... as can be found in Jon Kuro's ("Jkuro") test series.

At the net resistances you intend to run, VD is less a concern. With a quality battery and known true CDR, as determined by independent and controlled, unbiased testing... you shouldn't have too many issues.

Perhaps one of the best "build box/Ohm meters" is available from USA Ohm Meters. Resolution is common to most other meters... but accuracy is far superior to products coming out of China. Not a major issue above around 0.25Ω, but critical below, as amperage requirements start to compound at a rapid rate... and you can't afford to be off to the high side by 0.05Ω.

Obtaining "optimal" coil builds that provide best performance with a Ohm's law limited mech is crucial to best overall performance. Click the sigline links below to familiarize yourself with the advanced features of the Steam Engine coil modeling programe.

 

[conanthewarrior]

As a mech is nothing more than a battery holder/contact switch... the number one issue is conductivity, or voltage drop (VD).
A well made, well designed tube mech will have a very low, to nearly un-measurable VD... however, there are still plenty of high end mods with less than stellar conductivity, and as expected, surprisingly few clone mods with excellent conductivity.
The problem, more often than not, is close tolerance (or rather, lack of it), conductive quality of materials/platings and frequent substitutions of high cost materials for lower cost. Fairly thorough mech mod diagnostics and testing can be found here.

As all batteries have some level of sag, you can only measure true, device only VD with a continuous power supply, load and high conductivity battery filler/substitute... as can be found in Jon Kuro's ("Jkuro") test series.

At the net resistances you intend to run, VD is less a concern. With a quality battery and known true CDR, as determined by independent and controlled, unbiased testing... you shouldn't have too many issues.

Perhaps one of the best "build box/Ohm meters" is available from USA Ohm Meters. Resolution is common to most other meters... but accuracy is far superior to products coming out of China. Not a major issue above around 0.25Ω, but critical below, as amperage requirements start to compound at a rapid rate... and you can't afford to be off to the high side by 0.05Ω.

Obtaining "optimal" coil builds that provide best performance with a Ohm's law limited mech is crucial to best overall performance. Click the sigline links below to familiarize yourself with the advanced features of the Steam Engine coil modeling programe.

Thank you for all that information. So an ideal mech would have zero resistance across the whole thing? I don't own a meter to test, so do I just build my coils to what I usually would?

I will get familiar with the advanced parts of the steam engine calculators you sent me, thank you.

 

[State O' Flux]

Thank you for all that information. So an ideal mech would have zero resistance across the whole thing? I don't own a meter to test, so do I just build my coils to what I usually would?

I will get familiar with the advanced parts of the steam engine calculators you sent me, thank you.

Resistance can be misleading... as we are sometimes dealing in milliohms of resistance, without load/power to apply a strain to the mechs conductivity potential.
Constant load/power supply testing is the only true way to separate battery issues from mod issues. Tossing an in-line volt meter in a mech/atty combo (when compared to battery voltage) only tells you of the total combined losses for the entire assembly.
Saying that, one easy diagnosis that comes to mind is when a button assembly gets hotter, faster... than the 510 cap and atty. Then you can be reasonably certain that you have a switch issue rather than a battery issue. A "shock" at the button is also a tattle-tail of a switch with poor conductivity.

You can use Steam Engine "in reverse"... as a way of determining the actual resistance, by entering the "known" data and adjusting values until, you have an exact match of specification to your built coil.

Gotta go to work... ciao!

 

[OBDave]

Hi Conan - great advice here from SOF as always. I've got a more "for dummies" post that attempts to break the more basic concepts down into simple English, if you haven't taken a look at it yet it's right here:

http://www.vapingunderground.com/th...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/

Of particular interest to you - the section on using a multimeter to test your batteries until you develop a "feel" for how to vape them down to the 3.6-3.7 range. Multimeters are cheap (at least over here, the only thing I know about home-improvement stores there is a Top Gear segment I saw once mocking people who shop them), and valuable for a number of things vape-related - there are links in my linked thread to simple tutorials.

From what I understand USA Ohm Meters are the gold standard in ohm meters (though a quality multimeter would do this too) - not sure if they ship overseas or if there's an equivalent UK/Euro high-quality manufacturer.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I will have to get a multimeter, I don't actually own one, so haven't actually ever tested my batteries fresh off the charger.

Not sure on the top gear segment, I didn't realise you got that show in the states, love that show. Shame Jeremy clarkson knocked out his producer and got sacked from the BBC. All is not lost though, as Him, james may, and Richard hammond are making another car show together, they have made a new cast for top gear, which will probably fail as without those hosting it it will be completely different. I think the new show is going to be streaming though, amazon prime or something?

I will try to get a quality one, I can't for a few weeks due to money, but I got a few goodies to keep me happy, like the mech coming, two subtank mini quality clones with RBA for me in black and silver for Cheyenne, she wants a straight to lung tank as liked my lemo and the extra vapour it produces. I think I may have a cloud chaser on my hands. Glad I got her the 50 as a replacement, as I think she will appreciate them extra 20 watts.

But I will get a multimeter, and see how good it really is, conductivity wise. If there is a reading, does this affect my builds? Or do I still build coils the same, or take off what the mod is adding?

 

[OBDave]

For safety's sake I always build coils within the battery's continuous drain rating considering a 4.2 volt charge, with any voltage drop due to the mod providing me additional safety room.

 

[conanthewarrior]

For safety's sake I always build coils within the battery's continuous drain rating considering a 4.2 volt charge, with any voltage drop due to the mod providing me additional safety room.

Thats what I was going to go for, battery safety. I know I can build down to 0.3 as that is 13.5 amps, but the lowest I will go is 0.4, which is 8 amps. I am likely to only use a 0.6 due to the watts I require, I don't need massive power coils, its not for that, its a vapouriser I got in a panic when they started talking about regulation.

I went to my DRs the other day, told him I vaped, he was all for it. I showed him pics on my phone, he said "I have never seen such devices before"(He is Indian, so excuse the strange phrasing if there is any). I explained to him how I make my own juice, build my own coils so know how the device actually works, and they are saying they are about as dangerous as going out for a walk, in that you could get run over. So basically nil, but still a TINY risk.

It seems like the NHS will just be regulating corner shop EGO batteries and CE4 and CE5 atomisers, so at least that is one less worry.