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SXK Supbox Thread...
- Thread starter gsmit1
- Start date
That unboxing impression was quickly shattered. That doesn't mean I won't eventually get it where I want it, but boy oh boy are there serious problems right off the bat.
It took me over a half hour to get it to fire once. "CHECK ATOMIZER"
Then another 10 or so minutes to get it to fire again. Had to lose the o-ring on the top cap for the atomizer. It appears that that's where the break in the circuit is.
With the o-ring, I could not get the circuit to close. Without the or-ring I can barely get it to close. Tried both the included Supbox boro with the RBA, and another Boro from my BB stuff with the Brig'd RBA in it. Same result. "Check Atomizer."
If I use both thumbs and force the boro upward toward the top of the mod, it will fire for a while and then give the error again. Push it back up and it works again. This is assuming that all the parts are cinched down good (another story)
It is not immediately clear that both caps are all the way tight. I had to take the cage off, tighten down the top boro cap some more because there was still some play in there and then hold down the 8 shaped top plate/contact bar against the body of the mod and THEN crank down the battery cap, which also holds down the cage, AND is what puts the downward tension on the atomizer toward the positive pin in the bottom, to get even this far.
This is like an hour and a half in. I'm sure I will figure some more things out as I go, but there simply MUST be a revised version 2 of this great design that is much better executed.
The build quality is actually good. That's not the problem. The problem is they didn't think some details through before releasing this.
It took me over a half hour to get it to fire once. "CHECK ATOMIZER"
Then another 10 or so minutes to get it to fire again. Had to lose the o-ring on the top cap for the atomizer. It appears that that's where the break in the circuit is.
With the o-ring, I could not get the circuit to close. Without the or-ring I can barely get it to close. Tried both the included Supbox boro with the RBA, and another Boro from my BB stuff with the Brig'd RBA in it. Same result. "Check Atomizer."
If I use both thumbs and force the boro upward toward the top of the mod, it will fire for a while and then give the error again. Push it back up and it works again. This is assuming that all the parts are cinched down good (another story)
It is not immediately clear that both caps are all the way tight. I had to take the cage off, tighten down the top boro cap some more because there was still some play in there and then hold down the 8 shaped top plate/contact bar against the body of the mod and THEN crank down the battery cap, which also holds down the cage, AND is what puts the downward tension on the atomizer toward the positive pin in the bottom, to get even this far.
This is like an hour and a half in. I'm sure I will figure some more things out as I go, but there simply MUST be a revised version 2 of this great design that is much better executed.
The build quality is actually good. That's not the problem. The problem is they didn't think some details through before releasing this.
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Just now getting it running, but this is the tightest build deck I've ever seen. 2mm coils tops. That's not necessarily a deal killer, but just know that you will not get bigger than 2mm coils in here.
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I found that the atomizer gets its ground through the top plate. So yeah the battery cap and drip tip holder have to be tight in order for any of the tanks to fire. The stock tank and coil are the only ones that will ground through the base of the atomizer or coil. I too have had this happen a time or two.
I'm not sure what you mean by this.
Right, but to be honest I didn't think the outer ring actually grounds it on this device though. I have lots of RBAs and devices that use that design and they all have an extra pin contacting that outer ring. I thought on this one the outer ring is suspended. I'll have to look a bit closer because it might negate what I think is the solution I think I found to the open circuit issue.The bases have a grounding point on them where as the Boros and such don't.
The RBA leaks like crazy too btw. It does not seat in the bottom. I also had to put some teflon plumbers tape under the o-rings on the part that seats into the chimney because without it, the rba would fall off the chimney if I gently shook it outside the tank. No seal at all. I think I got that part sealed, but it still leaks out of the bottom where it sits in the removable base. That part will be harder to fix.
I was really excited to get this thing. It's a shame it doesn't work outta the box. I can't have the only one like this.
I now think the open circuit thing is due to a similar issue I had a good while back with some SXK boros where I had to bevel out the top hole a little bit.
I'll get it all eventually, but there's no way somebody should have to go through all this.
I was really excited to get this thing. It's a shame it doesn't work outta the box. I can't have the only one like this.
I now think the open circuit thing is due to a similar issue I had a good while back with some SXK boros where I had to bevel out the top hole a little bit.
I'll get it all eventually, but there's no way somebody should have to go through all this.
See HERE
Man I've seen a lot of these come out purchased and never heard of these issues. Have you thought of a return. If it was brand new and it took and hour and a half to get it to fire I'd definitely send it back, not figure out work around for it. Like buying a squonk new and the 510 instantly leaks. I'd have it replaced. Let the vendor figure out the issues and send you one that works like all the others that have no issues. Just my opinion.
The thing is, the problem's not with the mod. It's this tank/boro/rba.
I didn't find anything either.
I'll be interested to see somebody's else's experience with the provided boro and the supbox rba. That combination is the main issue. I got it to fire reliably with the bevel operation linked above, but it leaks terribly. The bottom of the rba seals, kinda, until you put it in the mod and tighten it down. Then is pushes the rba down in the base and loosens the seal.
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It's not the o-ring.
On the Bridg'd, the top of the chimney sits a little below the top edge of the boro. I just put a Xeta setup from the Billet Box in the Supbox and it works fine. First try. The chimney on the Xeta protrudes a little from the top of the boro.
I threw my saved titanium profile from the Billet Box on here and it vapes just like the Billet Box of course.
The broken circuit with the Supbox rba in the Supbox boro and the broken circuit with the Bridg'd is definitely where the top retaining cap for the atomizer mates with the chimney of those rbas. Both are a hair below the top of the boro. The Billet Box key is shaped differently and can get in there a bit more, though I did still have to bevel a couple of boros as per the above link even then.
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Where does all this leave me?
The mod is fine.
Billet Box setups wherein the chimney clears the top of the boro are fine.
In tank/side by side mode it's fine.
The provided boro with the Supbox rba was not fine until I beveled the top edge of the chimney hole at which time it became fine. Electronically at least, but it still leaks really bad.
So
I have a pretty good grip on what's happening here now.
The mod is fine.
Billet Box setups wherein the chimney clears the top of the boro are fine.
In tank/side by side mode it's fine.
The provided boro with the Supbox rba was not fine until I beveled the top edge of the chimney hole at which time it became fine. Electronically at least, but it still leaks really bad.
So
I have a pretty good grip on what's happening here now.
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That is a thought. Yes, I did notice that both the onboard 510 +pin and the adapter pin for using boro tanks is also spring loaded. I think? Maybe it's just the onboard one. I haven't had this very long yet. The adapter has long threads and it engages the onboard pin before being fully tightened. That IS a thought.
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Right I knew what you meant. Or you could just tighten it until it meets the onboard pin and give it a little more.
Ok, So I have a question.
And I know its early in ownership, but I feel any molded plastic can be gauged in how it will stand up with 3 days of table wear.
Some molded plastics are hard, and you know it will stand up to table rash, and also know that it wont survive a small fall on hard surfaces.
My question is... how pliable or rigid is the plastic they chose?
It looks like Delrin, but I am almost sure its not.
Reason being is the placement of the screen on the bottom... and over time, table rash may bring that lil bit of shelf to a level where it wouldn't protect the buttons or the stainless faceplate.
Similar to my BB... I always run a piece of tape on the bottom, its the weak point and the point that gets the most wear besides the firing button.
I am sure Ill have more questions... about fit and responsiveness after you all have had it for a month or two, three. For I feel that is where China and their buttons tend to go south, or at least in my experience.
Be rad, be safe, wear a mask!
And I know its early in ownership, but I feel any molded plastic can be gauged in how it will stand up with 3 days of table wear.
Some molded plastics are hard, and you know it will stand up to table rash, and also know that it wont survive a small fall on hard surfaces.
My question is... how pliable or rigid is the plastic they chose?
It looks like Delrin, but I am almost sure its not.
Reason being is the placement of the screen on the bottom... and over time, table rash may bring that lil bit of shelf to a level where it wouldn't protect the buttons or the stainless faceplate.
Similar to my BB... I always run a piece of tape on the bottom, its the weak point and the point that gets the most wear besides the firing button.
I am sure Ill have more questions... about fit and responsiveness after you all have had it for a month or two, three. For I feel that is where China and their buttons tend to go south, or at least in my experience.
Be rad, be safe, wear a mask!
The up and down buttons are recessed enough they won't be an issue. The plastic does look like derlin but it's hard to tell. The display is recessed behind the SS bottom plate. Then there is a really small lip of plastic the protrudes down but I would imagine it wear down to the point the mod would be sitting on the SS bottom plate. If you want to preserve the serial number some heavy clear packing tape over the bottom would be in order.
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Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
Yeah, I can see that those are recessed... was more about the lil lip and those that have it thoughts on it’s durability over time... which wear of that lip then would expose the faceplate to scratching.
Not one that sees an importance of serial numbers on a mass produced Chinese mod
Just overall preservation of its sleekness of the face.
The 3F site says it's made of ABS The body seems pretty thick and has the metal bottom plate for reinforcement on that end. The very thick cage and the metal cap and contact plate provide reinforcement on the top.
If it fell on concrete from several feet right on a corner I don't know what would happen, but it defintely doesn't have a flimsy fragile construction or feel.
According to my digital calipers the screen is recessed into the metal plate 1.17 mm. The buttons are almost flush, but they're also made of metal and you have to be able to reach them so they can't be recessed too far.
I'd say it's a little thicker and a little shorter and less wide than a pack of cigarettes. Pretty light, even with a battery . Lighter than a BB by a noticeable amount.
I was very favorably impressed by the quality outta the box. Where I ran into problems was with that freakin acrylic tank and the rba. Which I still haven't had a chance to get back to yet. I'm running the Xeta in it now as you saw. No issues at all there.
I have the tube in the mod with the orange top. The 18350/18650 adapter is in the air somewhere lol.
That's is the lip that @~Don~ was asking about.
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What do you guys drag your mods around behind a bicycle or something
Why wouldn't that lip last? Serious question. ABS is not brittle.
Bycycle?? I'm almost to old for a bicycle anymore lol. I'm thinking motorized scooter.What do you guys drag your mods around behind a bicycle or something?
Why wouldn't that lip last? Serious question. ABS is not brittle.
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What do you guys drag your mods around behind a bicycle or something
Why wouldn't that lip last? Serious question. ABS is not brittle.
Table rash was my only concern with the lip.
If I can wear down Cerakote from just placing a BB on my desk and within a year burned through it, surely ABS will do the same.
It’s not a deal breaker for me, was just curious to what you all with them think after the time you spent with them and the amount of rash already present... it would be an indicator of just how long it would take...
Love the concept of this tank but the xeta will not fit it at all. The exocet v2 will go in but the chimney will pull out very easily when removing the figure 8 piece and drip tip. So be careful if you get one of these. Haven't tried changing the o-rings yet. Maybe when I need to add juice.
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Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
I haven't tried it yet. The base of the Xeta is snug in everything. The authentic too and even in authentic boros.Love the concept of this tank but the xeta will not fit it at all. The exocet v2 will go in but the chimney will pull out very easily when removing the figure 8 piece and drip tip. So be careful if you get one of these. Haven't tried changing the o-rings yet. Maybe when I need to add juice.
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How is the Exocet V2? Mine came today.
So far I am loving the exocet v2. Having a real hard time figuring out which I like best between the exocet v2, the vape snail and the haiku xeta. They are all great.
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I have an og Exocet and really like it for rdtl, but I've been using my Billets for mtl.
I love all 3 of those too. I had a rough time with leaking with the shell when I first tried it, but then I went back to it a while later and it's great. I use the smallest Kindbright insert with it.
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Indeed it is. That's a lot less than I paid for mine.
