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Taifun Gt Post screw length And Best clone

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hello, I have an Hcigar Taifun GT.. Anyway I believe my positive post screw length is too short. without a coil attached it screws down but as soon as I attach a coil I can't get it to screw down anymore unless I really push hard and when I am able to get it screwed down it must only be getting in one line of thread. Also undoes itself quite often.. So before I go and purchase the Taifun Gt Service set replacement screws I was wondering if someone could tell me the length of their positive screw so I know if my theory that i got too short of a screw is correct or is the Hcigar Taifun just crap. Also can anyone recommend their favorite clone.. I want to buy another one and don't think i want to go with Hcigar again.
 

Cruel-Phate

Just Thomas
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Have you dropped your Taifun? Sounds to me like the plate under the deck moved just slightly, I had this happen once because I was dumb and unscrewed both screws/post alinement got messed up, I had to unscrew bottom and kept tapping the deck hard until it re-alined correct. Could be separate issue, I own four clones of the Taifun
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Have you dropped your Taifun? Sounds to me like the plate under the deck moved just slightly, I had this happen once because I was dumb and unscrewed both screws/post alinement got messed up, I had to unscrew bottom and kept tapping the deck hard until it re-alined correct. Could be separate issue, I own four clones of the Taifun

no never dropped it. My taifun is fairly new.. it has been like this from day 1.. If I take the medal post out then the screw will screw all the way down.. so that is what leads me to believe my screw might too short.. out of your four clones witch one is your favorite and where did you get it?
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
but maybe it is just out of alignment just so slightly. i can remove everything and see..
 

Cruel-Phate

Just Thomas
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I liked the clone by ehPro the best, the draw was not so tight, I have the ivogo version and had to pull air chimmy out and pluck the plastic crap out of the hole to get it working good, Hcigar is good version to, I just think the o rings we way to loose especially the one on the chimney cap, snapped it the first day I filled it. I just ordered a few of the colored ones from fasttech, so verdict is still out on that version. Mainly I use Taifun and drippers and Aspire Nautilus BVC when I am on the go
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well the ehpro will be the next one I buy then.. Thanks.. Any chance when u have some time u can messure your positive screw on one of them.. Will help me determine if the screw is too short or something else is wrong g
 

Cruel-Phate

Just Thomas
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
-15mm and +21mm on the ehpro

-14mm and +20mm on the Hcigar

That's crossing my fingers I did not get them mixed up :)
They both have the logo black font
The ivogo has the logo font white , i did not measure the ivogo
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for taking the time.. Just measured and my positive screw is 20mm as well.. Maybe my alignment is off
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well I am using 28.. I have checked last night and alignment is fine.. I believe hcigar just gives short ass screws cause without the medal post the screw screws down a good amount.. I am starting to believe that two things are happening.. One hcigar should ship with longer screws like 22mm instead of 20mm.. Second I believe when screwing it down it only catches one thread line and if either the screw or base gets stripped at the very edge it will no longer work.. Am currently on the hunt for longer screws.. Ordered the taifun gt service set but have no idea if the screws are longer
 

Mommay

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Shoutcast - I think what has happened is that the brass disc (located in the base)has become dislocated from your positive post and the 510 pin. Here is a diagram of the base. The reason that I suspect this is because when I first got mine, took it apart to thoroughly clean - this is what happened to me. I had a terrible time finding the info that I needed. Hopefully, this will help. The 2nd link is just an FYI.

http://www.fasttech.com/forums/1527301/t/1190428/diagrams-of-the-base-it-helps-a-lot
https://shop.strato.de/WebRoot/Store11/Shops/61925514/MediaGallery/Taifun_GT_User_Guide.pdf
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Shoutcast - I think what has happened is that the brass disc (located in the base)has become dislocated from your positive post and the 510 pin. Here is a diagram of the base. The reason that I suspect this is because when I first got mine, took it apart to thoroughly clean - this is what happened to me. I had a terrible time finding the info that I needed. Hopefully, this will help. The 2nd link is just an FYI.

http://www.fasttech.com/forums/1527301/t/1190428/diagrams-of-the-base-it-helps-a-lot
https://shop.strato.de/WebRoot/Store11/Shops/61925514/MediaGallery/Taifun_GT_User_Guide.pdf

Thanks for the reply Mommay! Yea, I was really hoping that is the case but i can clearly see the brass base when shining a flashlight down the hole and the screw will screw right down into it when i remove the medal tube..
 

Cruel-Phate

Just Thomas
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
There are plastic washers that are hard pressed in the deck between the brass plate, one of those plastic washers moved and is causing the problem with the screw alignment.
 

Mommay

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yea, maybe it's in place - but I thought mine was, too. You can see the brass base just fine, BUT, BOTH your positive pin (that holds your coil) AND the center pin have to screw into the brass base. I am willing to bet that it is the positive pin that is not screwed into the brass base, or the tiny top insulator (that fits on top of the brass plate) has moved out of place during this ordeal.

On the positive pin, there is an insulator that fits above the brass disc and the larger insulator that spans the width of the base. The brass disc is "sandwiched" between these 2 insulators, the positive post passes thru the top, small insulator, threads into the brass base - holding it in position. At this point, you should still be working looking down on the base. We haven't even gotten to the perceived problem of the 510 connection post yet. The reason your atty won't screw in - or stay screwed in, with a coil attached, is because there is just enough leverage & pressure, (with the coil seated & wicked) from the wick, coil, sleeve, guard & top cap that it is now in place, that the entire guts of your base (that can't be seen) is raised a bit, which in turn, raises the 510 connection. If you do get it connected, then it is bobbing up & down like a boat, inside the base - you won't be able to see it happening, it's all on the inside. Since the brass disc is bobbing, so is the 510 post. Here are instructions (not authored by me) to fix.

SOLUTION: Here is how to fix that problem:
put a small phillips-head screwdriver into the 510-connection hole and catch the center hole of that internal cylinder.
Then I turned the base upside down.
Then, watching inside the positive-pin hole, I turned that screwdriver until I saw the hole exactly centered in the positive-pin hole.
BUT before you screw the positive screw inside its hole, WATCH CAREFULLY inside the positive-screw hole while turning the bottom screwdriver (that catches the brass disk through the 510 connection), you should see somewhere (after many turns) THAT TOP POSITIVE INSULATOR DISK.
Then centre the hole of that insulator disk with the hole of the positive-screw hole and FIX it by inserting a very small screwdriver into the positive-screw hole.
Then rotate the bottom screwdriver until the top screwdriver falls down (meaning it catched the positive-screw hole on the brass cylinder, while mantaining the top insulator disk fixed under the positive-screw hole).
Then GENTLY remove the TOP screwdriver (NOT the one on the bottom, wou won't catch the hole of the positive screw in the brass disk if you remove the bottom screwdriver!! that's because all internal parts have some play in that room) and check (by looking inside the positive-screw hole) if the hole is centred with the center hole of the insulator disk AND with the side-hole of the brass disk.
Then GENTLY insert the positive screw MAKING ATTENTION ON NOT MOVING ANYTHING!
Screw the positive screw.
Then turn upside down the base.
THEN remove the screwdriver on the bottom and screw the 510 screw.

YOu're done! THE POSITIVE-POLE PATHWAY IS FIXED, IN THE CORRECT PLACE AND PERFECT.

This is tedious, but almost a sure fix for your problem. Good Luck. BTW - Make sure during all of this that you don't loose the little spring that your 510 post slides through.
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok I will give that a go when I get home tonight and let u know the results.. Thanks
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok so after trying that method over and over and getting nowhere.. no matter what I did the screw would not screw in.. the aligning the base just wasn't working cause I am pretty sure the base is aligned.. Any today my Taifun screw kit came in the mail.. Pulled it out and the replacement screw was actually longer then the one I got with Hcigar.. Put the new screw in and behold my screw is screwing in.. Once again I am vaping away in taifun Heaven! So if anyone is having issues with short screws for the taifun go to: Vapor Logic Boutique. And pick up the replacement screw kit.. He even threw in a clear plastic tank for free..
 

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