Become a Patron!

The Boro Mod Thread

b.m.

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
3F shows them as being available Dec 30th on their pre-order page. But just like the white SXK BB I ordered from them that said Nov 30th, it's shipped already, so that one came out a little bit early
You got lucky that it came out before expected from them.I pre ordered the white one September 24th because it showed a ship date of early October,then it changed to October 18th,and then finally Nov. 30th haha,at least it's finally on the way now,I got tired of waiting,and had went to the site to cancel it,when I seen it had finally shipped.
I'm in on the pulse AIO too though,I really like the green,but don't want a completely see through mod,so I went with black,and ordered the green doors for it.The fact it takes a 21700 is what sold me on it,plus being cheaper than all my other boro mods,I wont be afraid to take this one out of the house haha.
 

inganeer

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Found the perfect tank to put the xeta in. Don't have to fight it to get it in.
f80f42deb1bde5b3090d11d799c57d22.jpg


Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Found the perfect tank to put the xeta in. Don't have to fight it to get it in.
f80f42deb1bde5b3090d11d799c57d22.jpg


Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
Nice. They are a mofo to get in a boro, lol. I take a screwdriver the fits inside the chimney then catches the bottom to push the Xeta in.
 

b.m.

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'm torn so far I think. Less problems I think, but I like the slide n fill better than the little plug deal. For me, idk
I have a couple standard boros I really like using,because the glass slides nice and easy,but most I have,no matter how much I lube the gaskets,I feel like the glass is going to break before it ever starts to slide haha.
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I have a couple standard boros I really like using,because the glass slides nice and easy,but most I have,no matter how much I lube the gaskets,I feel like the glass is going to break before it ever starts to slide haha.
Yeah, I agree on unequal sliding. And I don't think it's authentic vs sxk either. I really like the unbreakable glasses from billi billi. They go in bad sliders for me, and usually help quite a bit.
 

b.m.

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah, I agree on unequal sliding. And I don't think it's authentic vs sxk either. I really like the unbreakable glasses from billi billi. They go in bad sliders for me, and usually help quite a bit.
Yeah,I used to always hear oh its because it's an sxk,but after getting my 2 authentic billets,both of the boros that came with those are terribly hard to slide.With the sxk ones,I found if you swap out the red seal with the black ones they sell,those seem to let the glass slide alot easier,almost too easy.I put one in the other day,and can hold the boro and with the thumb of the same hand just pull down lightly and get it open,so ill be grabbing some more of those black seals.
 
Last edited:

nadalama

Senior Moderator
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Patreon
New information just hit my brain this morning about my Supbox. Now I need to ask questions. Help if you can, please.

First off, what I have is an SXK Supbox, non-DNA, with an Ambition mods boro tank and the Molen bridge. Iirc there's a tri-core N80 Clapton in it, about 0.35 ohms.

I've said before that I'm not the most mechanically-inclined person, so just please take into consideration.

I don't use the Supbox much because I find it finicky. When I pick it up to vape, it might fire or it might not. It might say "no atomizer" or "too hot." I've been trying to remedy this by screwing down the nut that holds the drip tip as tight as it will go, but that isn't helping. Also sometimes the boro tank leaks at the bottom. At times, the resistance that the Supbox is reading can be all over the place - anywhere from 0.35 to 0.73 ohms. Standing juice up underneath the tank may have contributed to that.

I just realized, when I took the tank section apart just now, that if you push up on the 510 end coming out of the bottom of the tank, the bridge can actually separate from the boro and cause an "unsealed" condition in there, which would explain the leaking, if I have the nut up top tightened too much. Right? So here's my question:

How do you know when you have that nut tightened just enough? Do you just tighten it until you feel everything seat and become stable? Do you tighten until you don't get the "no atomizer" message any more? Is this a wheel that has to be reinvented every damn time I take this thing apart?

It's not nearly as tight now as I normally have it. I'm going to vape it for a while and see if it does better. Advice would be helpful. Thanks!
 

inganeer

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
For what it's worth I've had similar issues with mine. What I've had good luck with is to use permatex dielectric grease in the 510 connection and on the pin the boro sits on. This provides somewhat of a seal to keep juice out and maintain a good connection. Petroleum jelly might provide the same results too. You shouldn't have to wrench the top nut down to make connection.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
 

nadalama

Senior Moderator
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Patreon
For what it's worth I've had similar issues with mine. What I've had good luck with is to use permatex dielectric grease in the 510 connection and on the pin the boro sits on. This provides somewhat of a seal to keep juice out and maintain a good connection. Petroleum jelly might provide the same results too. You shouldn't have to wrench the top nut down to make connection.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

Thanks. It's something of a comfort to know that I'm not alone in having this problem, although I do hate for anyone else to have it, because it's highly aggravating.

I've already gotten pissed at it and put it aside for now. Might give a whirl at using it as an SBS with the 510 adapter, after I charge it again. It's for damn sure I won't keep after it for long if it continues to be so finicky. The problem is that I just don't have that many 22mm atomizers any more - need to see if I can put my hands on one that will work, like maybe the black Hussar RTA that I haven't used in forever. That thing is a PITA to refill, though. Aargh!
 

nadalama

Senior Moderator
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Patreon
Thanks. It's something of a comfort to know that I'm not alone in having this problem, although I do hate for anyone else to have it, because it's highly aggravating.

I've already gotten pissed at it and put it aside for now. Might give a whirl at using it as an SBS with the 510 adapter, after I charge it again. It's for damn sure I won't keep after it for long if it continues to be so finicky. The problem is that I just don't have that many 22mm atomizers any more - need to see if I can put my hands on one that will work, like maybe the black Hussar RTA that I haven't used in forever. That thing is a PITA to refill, though. Aargh!

Yes, I'm replying to my own post.

I put a Dvarw DL on the Supbox, so it is no longer a boro mod. I like it a lot better now, though; think I'll leave it like this.
 

Jd_

New Member
I’d hurry and push a v2 CEO with the air flow properly addressed.

Nothing like having your name attached to shit.

Do people think that lil piece of plastic is going to channel air flow on panels that don’t make a seal?

It’s similar as to digging a 2” wide trench to funnel Niagara Falls sure it will work…for like a split second



529db8c3166cbb3025776fb2bbdc4c6f.png



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cthulhu seems to have figured it out and it is wicking so far so good with 100vg.
The wicking is sort of a pain but ive had worse. U just have to have it bunched up a bit right up to the lip and i even pull some thru that little groove.

I wish i had a pic of the wicking but i wasnt sure i got it right until it was closed (took a few tries), but im sure there are plenty. I managed to shove a 3 5 mm coil in it and it is vaping great.
20220520_155919.jpg20220520_022013.jpg
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
cthulhu seems to have figured it out and it is wicking so far so good with 100vg.
The wicking is sort of a pain but ive had worse. U just have to have it bunched up a bit right up to the lip and i even pull some thru that little groove.

I wish i had a pic of the wicking but i wasnt sure i got it right until it was closed (took a few tries), but im sure there are plenty. I managed to shove a 3 5 mm coil in it and it is vaping great.
View attachment 193551View attachment 193552
The point I made was more about how a lil piece of rubber is supposed to direct air a certain way... on a device that isnt sealed. (if doors can be removed, its not sealed)

Same with the one you posted, the 3 air slots may be in direct line of the air flow, but that round cut out above is not sealed off from it, meaning its not really focused to the area in question. Generalized location... sure.

That lil thing they added to the base is just a band aid to the flawed design.

3x1 at the base, to 1.25x1.25 to 1.75 to 2x5 and exit the 3, 4x1 slots on a BB, at the edge of a non sealed door?

1653080684660.png

But I will say this.

If you're happy with it, and it vapes the way you want... da'fuck am I to say differently?

Be rad!

I mean shit... I don't think there is a perfect or perfectly made Boro RBA out there, to many people and to many opinions out there on what should and could of been done, and honestly I know, not one company designed RBA suits all, and also believe they shouldn't.

If I designed one, it would be simplistic, slotted screw posts similar to the Wick'd Bridge, 5 air flow options... 1-5mm, and just the bridge... Screw in chimney (4mm) to the Bridge Cap... Make the pins with an opional .5mm Peek spacer to eliminate no atomizer issue due to the use of aftermarket Boros....no reason to reinvent the boro, way to many issues from every MFG in regards to making a connection... but never hear about that when they use the factory boring White or Black Boro ;)

Anyway, got me started, whaddafuck do I care these days haha, I am near the point of quitting :D
 

Jd_

New Member
No worries man, wasnt disagreeing with u, just bragging the chulhu happens to work perfect without it, lol. Just a happy accident actually, didnt even occur to me when i got it.

I was also wondering what they expected from that little piece of black plastic, was just overjoyed when i realized it was unnecessary in my case :)
 
Last edited:

inganeer

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
No worries man, wasnt disagreeing with u, just bragging the chulhu happens to work perfect without it, lol. Just a happy accident actually, didnt even occur to me when i got it.

I was also wondering what that little piece of black plastic was supposed to do, was just overjoyed when i realized it was unnecessary in my case :)
It is there to cover the side for use in a billet box. Leave it out for other mods.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
 

Jd_

New Member
It is there to cover the side for use in a billet box. Leave it out for other mods.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
Thanks, yes, i know what is for. What i am trying to figure out is how an unobstructed airflow managed to do this inside the panel, lol. Condensation everywhere except the air channel. Kinda scratching my head how that happens.

At least it does vape good.

(Now that iw looking at it, maybe turning it around backwords will block that whole pathway it must be getting into)
20220520_221544.jpg
20220520_221725.jpg
 

inganeer

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Thanks, yes, i know what is for. What i am trying to figure out is how an unobstructed airflow managed to do this inside the panel, lol. Condensation everywhere except the air channel. Kinda scratching my head how that happens.

At least it does vape good.

(Now that iw looking at it, maybe turning it around backwords will block that whole pathway it must be getting into)
View attachment 193554
View attachment 193555
Check the backside to see if it leaked there. I'm sure you are aware the wicking on these can be a pita. Took me awhile to get mine working right. Tod's video helped a bunch.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
 

Jd_

New Member
Check the backside to see if it leaked there. I'm sure you are aware the wicking on these can be a pita. Took me awhile to get mine working right. Tod's video helped a bunch.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
Heh, you must be psychic. The back was completely full of juice when i pulled it out after i posted that pic. it may of happened when i took it out or it may be what was all over everything and thats why it was out of juice, dunno, ill have to pay more attention now (i thought it wasnt gonna be an issue, totally jinxed myself by bragging) I literally got it yesterday when i was posting, i had stumbled onto it a few weeks ago:)

Like i said tho, it does actually vape well enough for me to figure the thing out rather than move on to something else, kind of a loose draw and very thick vapor when airflow is unblocked.
 
Last edited:

Jd_

New Member
Check the backside to see if it leaked there. I'm sure you are aware the wicking on these can be a pita. Took me awhile to get mine working right. Tod's video helped a bunch.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
Ok, baffled again...it was working perfectly fine for 2 days, i looked inside today, and juice all over.

The deck isnt flooding as far as i can tell, so if must be the tank section (which sucks cuz it couldve been all one peice) but apparently the gasket just randomly lets it dump juice.)

Guess ill try replacing it, or maybe if someone who doesnt like theirs wants to part with it cheap and hasnt had this happen ill take it.
 
Last edited:

VU Sponsors

Top