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The Official #HandCheck Thread

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I do hereby stand most humbly corrected. I bought it when I got the C2MNT now that I remember right.

You must have at least one Fat Top for the XXX?

Say yes or I'll have nightmares :D
It's Fat Head, not Fat Top. I have it in brass, but I also have the XXV (both the copper and the brass). For the Asgard last week I got the series deck, another ultem set, and the ultem insert, and, for the Asgard Mini I got two series decks, two ultem sets, and five ultem inserts... along with the ultem cap for the 38mm Valhalla. The ultem sets I got are glossy. I also have them in matte ultem. The matte ones are the first batch that was sold out everywhere pretty fast. So the glossy ones are the new batch.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
@gsmit1

Here's my explanation why the Molicel P42A at 20A on a mech won't give you more vaping time than the Samsung 30T.

The Wh number, not the mAh number, is indicative of the vaping time. Wh stands for watts times hours. 1W = 1J/s (Joules per second). Therefore, 1Wh = 3600J worth of energy. Further, 1mAh = .001Ah (amps times hours). So, to calculate the Wh number, you need to divide the mAh number by 1000 and then multiply that by the volts (because watts is amps times volts).

The easiest way to look at the Wh on Mooch's constant current discharge graphs is to start by drawing a horizontal line at the voltage cut-off you'll be using, which is the number of volts you'll be getting from the battery during your last hit, right before you change out the battery as a result from the vape getting too weak on your mech. If we can assume that you vape the 30T down to 3.66V or thereabout on your mech, it means you'll be getting about 3.43V during your last hit. That's because at 20A the voltage sag of the 30T is 20A times .0116 ohms (where .0116 ohms is the DC internal resistance of the 30T). Next step is to look at the crossover point, which is where the P42A catches up with the 30T. I made a mockup to be able to compare them (pic below). The surface area of the orange shape to the left of the crossover point is about equal to that of the blue shape to the right of the crossover point. It means that the vaping time you'll get from the P42A will be about the same as with the 30T. Mooch explained in one of his older videos that the surface area of the shape below the discharge curve of a battery is what can be viewed as being proportional to the energy that it delivers. So the orange shape is how much additional energy the 30T delivers, whereas the blue shape is how much less energy it delivers, when compared to the P42A. These two differences in energy cancel each other out, as their surface area is the same.

30T vs P42A.jpg
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Rainy humpday check
c1246b810a680e37921bba4fe5349a4f.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I agree on the Mage. I find, for me, a tube mech just has to hit "good", and I am plenty happy. Mage does just that imo. I paid 30 bucks used with the stack, so falls well in the cheap :D I have 2 NADA's
I had a possible trade for you, but with only 2 you're probably not going to want to let one go. You seem to have several of alot of things so I thought I'd ask.
 
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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
@gsmit1

Here's my explanation why the Molicel P42A at 20A on a mech won't give you more vaping time than the Samsung 30T.

The Wh number, not the mAh number, is indicative of the vaping time. Wh stands for watts times hours. 1W = 1J/s (Joules per second). Therefore, 1Wh = 3600J worth of energy. Further, 1mAh = .001Ah (amps times hours). So, to calculate the Wh number, you need to divide the mAh number by 1000 and then multiply that by the volts (because watts is amps times volts).

The easiest way to look at the Wh on Mooch's constant current discharge graphs is to start by drawing a horizontal line at the voltage cut-off you'll be using, which is the number of volts you'll be getting from the battery during your last hit, right before you change out the battery as a result from the vape getting too weak on your mech. If we can assume that you vape the 30T down to 3.66V or thereabout on your mech, it means you'll be getting about 3.43V during your last hit. That's because at 20A the voltage sag of the 30T is 20A times .0116 ohms (where .0116 ohms is the DC internal resistance of the 30T). Next step is to look at the crossover point, which is where the P42A catches up with the 30T. I made a mockup to be able to compare them (pic below). The surface area of the orange shape to the left of the crossover point is about equal to that of the blue shape to the right of the crossover point. It means that the vaping time you'll get from the P42A will be about the same as with the 30T. Mooch explained in one of his older videos that the surface area of the shape below the discharge curve of a battery is what can be viewed as being proportional to the energy that it delivers. So the orange shape is how much additional energy the 30T delivers, whereas the blue shape is how much less energy it delivers, when compared to the P42A. These two differences in energy cancel each other out, as their surface area is the same.

View attachment 168093
I understand. I understood your first post :) (a couple great posts btw)

You are in a minority of people who vape almost exclusively with fully mechanical devices across the board. Which of course there's not a thing wrong with. It does however present you with considerations that most mech users don't deal with.

The vast majority of mech users I see are concerned primarily with finding the best combination of safety, performance and capacity at the upper-ish end of the amp draw.

You are one of maybe 3 people that I've ever run into, that I can think of off the top of my head, who would use a 21700 at or below 20 amps on a mech. Again, NOT a criticism as there's not a thing wrong with that.

I've also only been in this game a couple years and change. Maybe I just haven't run into those people. I have run into quite a few though and almost all of them use a combination of mechs and regs with it kinda being assumed that their mechs are on the hotter end of their preferred vapes.

Hence my point. Most mech users (that I've seen) are looking for the lowest internal resistance and highest true CDR at whatever capacity they can get out of those two properites.

Assuming that's the case, the 30T is the best battery (for most users) for mechs that will accept 21700s. It has the lowest internal resistance (and sag) and highest amp rating of any battery we use, while providing good capacity.

This is usually the part where you go on the defensive and start trying to prove yourself right and the other person wrong. There's no need to do that my friend. :) I have not challenged anything you've said. I have no illusions. You have far more experience and knowledge than I do. I've only clarified why I said what I did.
 
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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I understand. I understood your first post :) (a couple great posts btw)

You are in a minority of people who vape almost exclusively with fully mechanical devices across the board.
Actually I haven't touched a regulated mod in almost two years now, and, the last time I used a PWM mod I think was more than a whole year ago.
Which of course there's not a thing wrong with. It does however present you with considerations that most mech users don't deal with.
That's just because I like to explore the mech hobby for the sake of variation in several many ways. I guess most mech users just want to stick to using single battery mechs with 24mm or 25mm RDAs so they have no big interest in the niche-within-a-niche type of mech setups that present different types of challenges.
The vast majority of mech users I see are concerned primarily with finding the best combination of safety, performance and capacity at the upper-ish end of the amp draw.
Same here. But there exists no linear relationship between the vaping time and battery capacity, as the criterium to use for that is the energy, not capacity, albeit the energy depends on both the DC internal resistance and the capacity, BUT... the effective capacity still factually depends on the amp draw so, in a real-world vaping scenario the capacity you'll get is quite a lot less than the mAh rating might have you believe. That's simply because the amount of charge that you've got left after the volts, under load, dip below the desired voltage cut-off will not be used, and also it's because the battery's efficiency still factually depends on both the DC internal resistance and the amp draw.
You are one of maybe 3 people that I've ever run into, that I can think of off the top of my head, who would use a 21700 at or below 20 amps on a mech. Again, NOT a criticism as there's not a thing wrong with that.
I never vape at or below 20A on a single 21700 battery mech, though. It's just that, on the Vaperz Cloud Stormbreaker with three 30T batteries in parallel, at just 20A per battery, you're actually pushing more than 245W, so... I hope that explains my point re possible ways to tame a hot build by picking a battery that hits less hard, merely as an alternative choice to discarding/redesigning the actual build in question─even if only to learn from that experience. That is, entirely from the hobby kind of perspective, i.e. as part of an ongoing self-educational process that enables me to keep wanting to explore various new possibilities. Basically, it doesn't have to be an all-day-vape type thing to still be useful, at least to some degree. So that's the main philosophy I guess. It's the fun part of trying to design coils such that finding out how they can perform under a specific set of circumstances becomes the ulterior goal besides choosing to just vape the old familiar, or usual, way.
I've also only been in this game a couple years and change. Maybe I just haven't run into those people. I have run into quite a few though and almost all of them use a combination of mechs and regs with it kinda being assumed that their mechs are on the hotter end of their preferred vapes.
I actually dislike a hot vape. Truly warm, yes, but I never vape on anything beyond warm so, for me, it's got much more to do with finding ultimate combinations of warmth, wetness, density, texture, and top notch flavor performance, as well as the speed of inhalation in cohort with the restrictiveness, the latter also being part determined by the speed of inhalation, and, I dislike throat hit to the point of only vaping with very limited amounts of throat hit. Also, wide open airflow is not for me, excepting only on an RBA that is a lot more restrictive than the vast majority of RBAs belonging in the realm of typical DTL vaping style. All of the airflow has to smash right into the coils, and has to smash into them evenly balanced across the entire coil with not a lot of turbulence happening on the downwind side of the coil or else it just doesn't work for me in any way at all. But that's just me.
Hence my point. Most mech users (that I've seen) are looking for the lowest internal resistance and highest true CDR at whatever capacity they can get out of those two properites.

Assuming that's the case, the 30T is the best battery (for most users) for mechs that will accept 21700s. It has the lowest internal resistance (and sag) and highest amp rating of any battery we use, while providing good capacity.
Of course. There's no argument against that, as most mech users don't use multi-battery mechs, anyway in the first place, and, those who do aren't necessarily always interested in taming a hot build by choosing a battery that has a medium-low internal resistance that is similar to that of the Sony VTC5A as opposed to it having the absolute lowest of the low internal resistances. Obviously it's going to be a numbers game.
This is usually the part where you go on the defensive and start trying to prove yourself right and the other person wrong. There's no need to do that my friend. :) I have not challenged anything you've said. I have no illusions. You have far more experience and knowledge than I do. I've only clarified why I said what I did.
Why would I want to go on the defensive side about that subject? I much prefer to make jokes. Like, one time I asked the shopkeeper, "Are you sure that mixing one bottle of 12mg and three bottles of 0mg gives 3mg? I think maybe you might be wrong." To which he replied, "Yea... it has been defined by science the fact that 12 divided by 4 equals 3 so splitting one bottle of 12mg across 4 bottles in total gives 3mg." What he didn't know was, the axioms define maths as a science, not the other way around so in the end he was still wrong. ?
 

Tornadoalleydeb

Vaping whilst slaying dragons in the land of Tyria
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Does anyone have the Asgard 30mm Smoked out version they can show me a picture of? TIA
EDIT: nvm I found it on you tube. I will wait till I can find the black one in stock. Or anything other than gold or green lol
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
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Member For 4 Years
Another check and I do wish we could go back to the smaller pictures the way they were before :) EVERY little piece of lint shows! HA HA View attachment 168255
I find myself checking for that stuff too when I take pics. It's funny the we obsess over something Noone else probably worries about with our mod. Like nice mod but did the maid quit. Lol

Sent from a pile of wood chips
 

Tornadoalleydeb

Vaping whilst slaying dragons in the land of Tyria
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Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
VU Patreon
I find myself checking for that stuff too when I take pics. It's funny the we obsess over something Noone else probably worries about with our mod. Like nice mod but did the maid quit. Lol

Sent from a pile of wood chips
Lint......lol, who am I kidding, it's cat hair HA HA. Only time I put them out of the room is if I am going to be making juice, and I wipe everything down real good first.
 

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