The Official Staple Coil Thread

[Markcyril]

I’ve always gone with

30g for 0.3 ribbon
28g for 0.4 ribbon
26g for 0.5 ribbon

I tend to use kanthal ribbon to keep resistance up not other reason would be happy to use other metals as well probably N80 if I were to use something else as I prefer the taste over pure SS personally and it’s easier to work with

Yeah you can use SS ribbon remember the more stacks you add the less the resistance is though think of it like a hose pipe in this respect ...also SS has a lower resistivity over kanthal which is always against you especially if you want dual coils

I’d start with a four stack of 0.4 ribbon and go from there its the easiest to work with out of the list at least this is what I find

Plan your builds using the steam engine wire wizard or take a look through the post your builds threads most people state the resistance of thier builds when mounted ...then write down in your coil recipe book

Hope it helps mate

Hey KingPin! How does the taste differ between the three?

 

[KingPin!]

Hey KingPin! How does the taste differ between the three?

This one is really personal to answer what I might like may be very different to you and some can’t tell the difference at all! However for me....

I find for minty or fruit flavours SS doesn’t interfere especially when using cotton bacon wicking although I do sometimes detect a metallic taste normally towards the point of getting time for a clean or freshly installed ....the added bonus of using this metal is for temp control on most devices

For bakery flavours I like N80 seems to merge these sorts of flavours together well (custards, pie, creams etc) and they take more punishment than SS does heating and like using koh gen doh cotton pads for RDAs

Kanthal is an alrounder doesn’t enhance either really...so more neutral if you know what I mean

I tend to mix and match when I make complex coils so I can flavour change and it’ll pick up notes whatever I’m using

Kanthal ribbon keep resistance down
SS316 frames
N80 wraps

But this is just me

Best is to make some simple clapton coils using just one metal type vape it see what you think using different flavours and go from there

 

[Markcyril]

This one is really personal to answer what I might like may be very different to you and some can’t tell the difference at all! However for me....

I find for minty or fruit flavours SS doesn’t interfere especially when using cotton bacon wicking although I do sometimes detect a metallic taste normally towards the point of getting time for a clean or freshly installed ....the added bonus of using this metal is for temp control on most devices

For bakery flavours I like N80 seems to merge these sorts of flavours together well (custards, pie, creams etc) and they take more punishment than SS does heating and like using koh gen doh cotton pads for RDAs

Kanthal is an alrounder doesn’t enhance either really...so more neutral if you know what I mean

I tend to mix and match when I make complex coils so I can flavour change and it’ll pick up notes whatever I’m using

Kanthal ribbon keep resistance down
SS316 frames
N80 wraps

But this is just me

Best is to make some simple clapton coils using just one metal type vape it see what you think using different flavours and go from there

Thanks for the insight! I'll probably switch between the three and see if I can taste the difference. Thanks a lot man you've been so helpful

 

[KingPin!]

Thanks for the insight! I'll probably switch between the three and see if I can taste the difference. Thanks a lot man you've been so helpful

No probs happy to help ...if you look back up on page 1 BK posted a really great guide for banging one of these out it well worth a read as well

 

[Zohmbiebuilds]

Hey I hate kanthal, do most of you still prefer kanthal ribbon for keeping within reasonable ohms? I'm cool at .1-14 that's my personal range I like to use. Within those limits are safe, and hit just fine with Nichrome. Ugh.. I think I just answered my question.

How many here would do a full Nichrome staple build? Or is it more reasonable to use kanthal for the core ribbon??

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[Carambrda]

Hey I hate kanthal, do most of you still prefer kanthal ribbon for keeping within reasonable ohms? I'm cool at .1-14 that's my personal range I like to use. Within those limits are safe, and hit just fine with Nichrome. Ugh.. I think I just answered my question.

How many here would do a full Nichrome staple build? Or is it more reasonable to use kanthal for the core ribbon??

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I use Kanthal A1 ribbon and Kanthal A1 frames for staple staggered fused claptons to keep the resistance up, and I always use Nichrome80 for all of my wrap wire. Kanthal can give a metallic taste if you don't keep dry firing the coils for several minutes before you start to use your newly built coils... be careful not to overheat your RBA whilst doing this so be patient, and don't stress the coils too much so stick to low wattage whilst doing this. Orange-ish/brown rust will go away if you dry burn and then rinse with carbonized water (sparkling water) instead of with regular tap water. But I also noticed the rust tends to re-appear fairly quick so... don't wait. Just vigorously blow out the few drops of water that still remain, gently pulse the coils again a few times to dry the coils as well as the posts and the deck, blow a few times to cool down the coils, re-wick fast (make the necessary preparations for that), and immediately juice up. Whilst you dry the coils by gently pulsing, you'll notice a funny smell rising up above the coils. You want to get rid of that so keep gently pulsing until both this smell and all the water are completely gone before you proceed.

As for a full Nichrome80 staple build, yes, I would most definitely do it again. I used 12ply .4×.1 Nichrome80 ribbon, wrapped in 40g Nichrome80 for my dual coil build, that ohmed out at .11 ohms so it is usable on those regulated mods that won't fire below .1 (such as my Reuleaux RX300) albeit I highly recommend to use a power curve with this coil build (I vastly prefer to use ArcticFox firmware for that) because this coil build contains a lot of metal, and, ramp up is the enemy when crisp top notes in the flavor is what you're after─which is the whole point of using a staple coil build in the first place IMO... my favorite juice with this build is Crimson by Illusions.

 

[strigamort]

Hey I hate kanthal, do most of you still prefer kanthal ribbon for keeping within reasonable ohms? I'm cool at .1-14 that's my personal range I like to use. Within those limits are safe, and hit just fine with Nichrome. Ugh.. I think I just answered my question.

How many here would do a full Nichrome staple build? Or is it more reasonable to use kanthal for the core ribbon??

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I have several thousand feet of kanthal just sitting waiting for me to figure out what to do with it. I don't get any flavor from the stuff, I don't care THAT much about the fact that it doesn't get all purdy for macro shots like NiCh and SS and I can usually work around resistance just by going with small awg and more wraps. I cannot stand the slow ramps though. It drives me nuts watching kanthal get red all lazy like when 316l has lapped it. I like NiCh80 but I do get a metallic taste from it. Generally it isn't too off-putting, but I don't see any reason to change from stainless when it has everything I want.

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[Carambrda]

I have several thousand feet of kanthal just sitting waiting for me to figure out what to do with it. I don't get any flavor from the stuff, I don't care THAT much about the fact that it doesn't get all purdy for macro shots like NiCh and SS and I can usually work around resistance just by going with small awg and more wraps. I cannot stand the slow ramps though. It drives me nuts watching kanthal get red all lazy like when 316l has lapped it. I like NiCh80 but I do get a metallic taste from it. Generally it isn't too off-putting, but I don't see any reason to change from stainless when it has everything I want.

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Slow ramp up is why I often tend to speed it up by using this:

 

[Zohmbiebuilds]

Slow ramp up is why I often tend to speed it up by using this:

View attachment 100104

No doubt, that is exactly what curve mode is for. Pre heat does great too if you set your pre heat 30% more than your preferred temp/wattage. That's always what's helped me power big chunky coils.

I've been using mechs and unregulated mods the most. I used to fucking hate unregulated and mech mods. Would trash talk, and never buy anything mechanical until this last month and a half. It's entirely different and a completely different, albiet frustrating at first. But insanely more satisfying when you realize how to build.

My favorite mechanical build

A fused Clapton, with the wrap staggered in 24g, or 26g, 36 Nichrome everything. 5 wraps.

It was very hard for me to fathom only using 5 wraps, but I'm convinced that that works best in mechanical as a dual coil set up. The wrap being staggered helps tremendously. I don't like the look of staggered wraps, but performance wise mechanical mods and unregulated really benefit from less mass. Stags heat up quicker, but don't as much surface space. It's a fair trade off, and works best in mechanical or unregulated mods.



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[Carambrda]

No doubt, that is exactly what curve mode is for. Pre heat does great too if you set your pre heat 30% more than your preferred temp/wattage. That's always what's helped me power big chunky coils.

I've been using mechs and unregulated mods the most. I used to fucking hate unregulated and mech mods. Would trash talk, and never buy anything mechanical until this last month and a half. It's entirely different and a completely different, albiet frustrating at first. But insanely more satisfying when you realize how to build.

My favorite mechanical build

A fused Clapton, with the wrap staggered in 24g, or 26g, 36 Nichrome everything. 5 wraps.

It was very hard for me to fathom only using 5 wraps, but I'm convinced that that works best in mechanical as a dual coil set up. The wrap being staggered helps tremendously. I don't like the look of staggered wraps, but performance wise mechanical mods and unregulated really benefit from less mass. Stags heat up quicker, but don't as much surface space. It's a fair trade off, and works best in mechanical or unregulated mods.



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The power curve is actually a preheat. Each dot on the curve is a percentage number so the watts you set on the mod = 100% .

 

[mach1ne]

stapled helix. a quick rundown of the process:

-figure out how much coil you need to make (i use wire wizard)
-make an inch or two more than double that amount of twisted frame wire
-the twist pitch determines the angle of the helix wraps, so keep that in mind and pay attention so you dont miss your traget
-make a ribbon stack
-fold the twisted frames over the stack and fasten it together using your preferred method
-wrap your fuse wire into the grooves on the frames, but to get the fuse to follow the twist pitch, you might find that your wraps are 6 or 7 twists apart
-figure that number out in the first inch or so, then unwrap it and start again
-this time, count the twists between each wrap on each side/frame of the wire so you end up with one wire wrapped every x twists (x = however many looks good to you)
---i watched a video where the guy said not to use a drill/hand drill, just fasten it into a vise and use a pre-cut length of wire to go over-under until its done
---i used a hand drill and a spool like i was claptoning, but i turned the hand drill with my fingers, and every time i counted out my twists and put the wire into the groove i pulled it tight before i rolled the chuck over. this pass took about an hour for 12 inches of finished product
---the second pass is much faster because you dont have to count, you have a visual guide. i used the crank on the drill and got into a pattern of weaving back and forth into the correct grooves. these passes took a few minutes each (5 total for me, before i ran out of wrap on what would have been my 6th/final pass)

the drill side of my setup. i am using a chucky clamp from usaohmmeters. you can see each pass of fuse wire wrapped around the screw and starting out, and my glue dab. stuck in the chucky clamp is the loop end of my ribbon stack and frames:


a wire shot:


im using a spinLT with a swivel clamp that works just like the chucky. when i finished each pass, i held the fuse against the glue dab and touched it with a lighter so it would stick in tight. normally i would float the ribbon stack by making the frames longer than it and only attach them to the swivels, but i fucked up this time and did it backwards. it didnt make any difference because i was turning the drill a half turn at a time so there was no twist being applied to my cores. when i got near the end of the first pass there was a bit of a bulge in my ribbon stack, and my frames were still loose, so i hit the glue a little with the lighter and released the bulge and caught my frames in the glue while it was hot.

 

[Zohmbiebuilds]

stapled helix. a quick rundown of the process:

-figure out how much coil you need to make (i use wire wizard)
-make an inch or two more than double that amount of twisted frame wire
-the twist pitch determines the angle of the helix wraps, so keep that in mind and pay attention so you dont miss your traget
-make a ribbon stack
-fold the twisted frames over the stack and fasten it together using your preferred method
-wrap your fuse wire into the grooves on the frames, but to get the fuse to follow the twist pitch, you might find that your wraps are 6 or 7 twists apart
-figure that number out in the first inch or so, then unwrap it and start again
-this time, count the twists between each wrap on each side/frame of the wire so you end up with one wire wrapped every x twists (x = however many looks good to you)
---i watched a video where the guy said not to use a drill/hand drill, just fasten it into a vise and use a pre-cut length of wire to go over-under until its done
---i used a hand drill and a spool like i was claptoning, but i turned the hand drill with my fingers, and every time i counted out my twists and put the wire into the groove i pulled it tight before i rolled the chuck over. this pass took about an hour for 12 inches of finished product
---the second pass is much faster because you dont have to count, you have a visual guide. i used the crank on the drill and got into a pattern of weaving back and forth into the correct grooves. these passes took a few minutes each (5 total for me, before i ran out of wrap one what would have been my 6th/final pass)

the drill side of my setup. i am using a chucky clamp from usaohmmeters. you can see each pass of fuse wire wrapped around the screw and starting out, and my glue dab. stuck in the chucky clamp is the loop end of my ribbon stack and frames:
View attachment 100490

a wire shot:
View attachment 100491

im using a spinLT with a swivel clamp that works just like the chucky. when i finished each pass, i held the fuse against the glue dab and touched it with a lighter so it would stick in tight. usually i would float the ribbon stack by making the frames longer than it and only attach them to the swivels, but i fucked up this time and did it backwards. it didnt make any difference because i was turning the drill a half turn at a time so there was no twist being applied to my cores. when i got near the end of the first pass there was a bit of a bulge in my ribbon stack, and my frames were still loose, so i hit the glue a little with the lighter and released the bulge and caught my frames in the glue while it was hot.
View attachment 100492
View attachment 100493

Dude your a beast on another level! I've wondered how those vape.

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[mach1ne]

it vapes pretty good man. im using a ribbon wire im not familiar with, so i misjudged the performance a bit. flavor is good, but it ramps up a little slow for me. i will prolly take another crack at this build with a different composition at some point (after my back recovers from being hunched over this all night).

 

[Zohmbiebuilds]

it vapes pretty good man. im using a ribbon wire im not familiar with, so i misjudged the performance a bit. flavor is good, but it ramps up a little slow for me. i will prolly take another crack at this build with a different composition at some point (after my back recovers from being hunched over this all night).

No doubt, I hope your back feels better bro, we need sick build pics and help!

What wire was slow to ramp up??

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[KingPin!]

Greats tips @mach1ne many thanks

 

[mach1ne]

What wire was slow to ramp up??

the whole thing is a bit high in resistance for its size. i put some ka1 ribbon in because i was worried 10 plies of mystery ribbon wire would be too low. if i did it again i would either skip those plies (smaller coil) or replace them with more mystery wire (lower total resistance, more power/wattage to the same sized coil).

edit - turns out it was just the mod or battery i was using (notorious clone with ijoy 26650). i put the coil into a csmnt on a parallel box and it performs great. either the tube has a lot of v drop, or the battery needs to be replaced.

 

[mach1ne]

half-dub, quick rundown/impressions from my first attempt:

-figure out your wire composition and total wire length requirement with wire wizard (or your favorite coil tool)
-make 2x + a couple inches worth of spaced clapton wire using your favorite spacing trick (i like an old fashioned loop/finger, but i used a goon as a weight for this one)
-make a ribbon stack using half of your total desired ribbon and attach it to your spaced clapton (take care here, prep is the foundation of these builds)
-skip fuse them together in every second space on the clapton. prep is very important here. ribbon sliders are not ideal, as they grab the spaced clapton wraps. i tried to use a couple paperclips spaced across the whole wire, but it wasnt enough and i had to stop and use nylon pliers a thousand times to correct my shitty prep work. this pass took far too long for me.
-cut that length of wire in half, and fasten the two halves together, frames out, ribbon stacks in the middle (or however the hell you want, im not the boss of you)
-skip fuse that together in the remaining spaces et voila


so skip fusing is pretty much the hardest part of this build imo. if your spaced clapton is perfect (which is better be if you want this to go smoothly), you should be able to do the first skip fuse pass fairly easily by finding/holding the correct angle with your wrap wire. just lead ahead a bit more than you would for tight clapton wrap. i find its easier to go fast for this kind of stuff, once you find the angle/groove...but your prep has to be on point, or youll end up stopping to pinch the core pieces flat with your nylon pliers a lot.

the second pass of skip fuse is even harder because you are trying to skip fuse two different frames together. if the spacing on them is different, or if they are not perfectly aligned, its much harder to just go fast on the drill and find an angle that works. more likely, you will have to weave your wrap wire back and forth into the un-aligned spaces on either side/frame as it spins. on mine, i got some clean parts and some parts where nothing was aligned. the last pass took a lot of nylon pliers and unwinding mistakes. some areas were unrecoverable and i just had to work passed them and hope it lined back up (it always eventually did. not sure what causes a section to not work, and then start working again after).

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

Not much of a fan of the heavier staple builds - they tend to take too much heat for my preferences. So I'm gonna try some 0.2mm kanthal core staples, with 32g SS frames and tiny 44g N80 binding. I'm expecting these to be a little under 0.20Ω for the dual coil build. Hopefully it'll be perfect for a tube mech. I hope the .2 ribbon cooperates... Results in a few minutes.

 

[mach1ne]

@CrazyChef v2.0 what do you think of coil society wire? i have a cart full of stuff over there im waiting to pull the trigger on...

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

Their ribbon wire is straight, and I only use it when I can't get it from KP or other Sandvik sources, which is why I use their 0.2 ribbon. Their round wire is hit and miss. I've had higher gauge (36, 38, etc.) stuff from them that was just as bad as LV wire. I don't recommend their round wire at all.

Cores are prepped - now I hope the 44g wrap goes on okay...

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

Tiny little buggers. If I didn't know better, I'd think they were fused Claptons.


EDIT: I think the frames flopped over. Gonna remake them.

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

This looks like a much better start.

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

Okay, me likey. I'm thinkin' they should probably go in the Ruby.

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

Definitely not coil porn material, but they vape great!

 

[AnthonyLouis]

Definitely not coil porn material, but they vape great!

Haha real nice man!! One of the biggest issues I’m having right now, since I started building again, is working with ribbon under .4. .3 for example... I get it stacked perfect... prep goes amazing, everything is literally perfect. Then I go to fuse and an inch up a few strands twist or collapse over another. Idk if I’m using to much pressure while fusing trying to get those wraps perfect or what not... but I’ve literally had zero success with .3 this week.


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[CrazyChef v2.0]

What are you using for an outer wire? I always use 38g or thinner.

 

[mach1ne]

Haha real nice man!! One of the biggest issues I’m having right now, since I started building again, is working with ribbon under .4. .3 for example... I get it stacked perfect... prep goes amazing, everything is literally perfect. Then I go to fuse and an inch up a few strands twist or collapse over another. Idk if I’m using to much pressure while fusing trying to get those wraps perfect or what not... but I’ve literally had zero success with .3 this week.


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it might be tension on your spool. try to do one where you barely hold it tight enough for it to work. when i was starting out i had a tendency to hold it just loose enough for it to work, but thats often too tight for more complex builds, so i went the other way and found its much easier with the softest touch possible (just tight enough that your wraps dont slide off).

 

[AnthonyLouis]

What are you using for an outer wire? I always use 38g or thinner.

38,40,42


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[AnthonyLouis]

it might be tension on your spool. try to do one where you barely hold it tight enough for it to work. when i was starting out i had a tendency to hold it just loose enough for it to work, but thats often too tight for more complex builds, so i went the other way and found its much easier with the softest touch possible (just tight enough that your wraps dont slide off).

Yeah makes sense... it’s been so long since I’ve worked with small ribbon, I’m treating it the same as .4 .5 ribbon... I’m gonna try it later today, let you guys know how it goes.


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[AnthonyLouis]

Not perfect, gotta get used to wrapping with no tension on the spool when using .3.... granted this is 42g so there’s bound to be some slight spacing.

8(.3x.1k)
2(28gk)
42g kanthal fuse
5 Wraps - 1.1ohm sitting on the Recoil RTA

Thanks for the tip on less tension when working with .3. It’s been so long that I gotta get that “feel” back with each build. Now I gotta see where I stand with staggering haha


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[AnthonyLouis]

5 Wraps - 1.1ohm sitting on the RELOAD RTA***


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[CrazyChef v2.0]

5 Wraps - 1.1ohm sitting on the RELOAD RTA***

You sure about that?

 

[zephyr]

I forgot to post my first staple in here!
8x 0.3 with 28awg frame, 40awg kanthal D wrap, 5.5 wrap 3mm ID 0.13 ohms
Spent the longest time scratching my head at trying to stack the tiny ribbon... VG all over it and bam! I hooked the frame loop end to the swivel and bent the frames outward a bit, so they would tend to pull out away from center, bound it with some old wire and bam

Edit: I forgot to say how I started stacking, I put every single strand of ribbon on a piece of masking tape and then stacked them that way - I don't want to make loops because that will end up wasting a bit more ribbon than I want to waste

 

[AnthonyLouis]

You sure about that?

Which part?


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[zephyr]

Which part?


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1.1 ohms? Lol

Maybe like...0.11 ohms?

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

Which part?


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1.1Ω

 

[AnthonyLouis]

I forgot to post my first staple in here!
8x 0.3 with 28awg frame, 40awg kanthal D wrap, 5.5 wrap 3mm ID 0.13 ohms
Spent the longest time scratching my head at trying to stack the tiny ribbon... VG all over it and bam! I hooked the frame loop end to the swivel and bent the frames outward a bit, so they would tend to pull out away from center, bound it with some old wire and bam
View attachment 103671

I use some water and it all just sticks together.. I actually fold the ribbon in half and tie up the end and use that for the swivel. Then I frame it and hot glue it together under the swivel loop... works flawlessly


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[AnthonyLouis]

Very nice btw!!


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[zephyr]

Yours look rad, @AnthonyLouis !

I can't wait to try another staple tomorrow. Gonna go with the 46 I think...gotta make aliens work with the 40 sometime, I consider myself having a dainty touch but Dang, I feel like King Kong holding decored 40 guage!

 

[mach1ne]

Yours look rad, @AnthonyLouis !

I can't wait to try another staple tomorrow. Gonna go with the 46 I think...gotta make aliens work with the 40 sometime, I consider myself having a dainty touch but Dang, I feel like King Kong holding decored 40 guage!

yeah 40 alien is very delicate. i find its much easier to work with if you understretch it a bit because its so fragile it can get wrecked by the slightest thing, and overstretched alien will never work. if you leave it a little understretched you have some room to make mistakes with your tension (on 40, holding it in your hand gently can be a 'mistake with your tension' ).

since we are in the staple thread, you should try alien framed staples next @Pegleg Meg just set up 2x28 with 4x.3mm in the middle and do everything else like you are making a 3x28 alien (28 decore). your framed staple stack prep is clearly good enough (as evidenced by your recent success with that build). imo its easier to alien wrap a framed staple stack than 3xround wire cores.

 

[zephyr]

(on 40, holding it in your hand gently can be a 'mistake with your tension' ).

Is there a way to hold it without a hand? Serious question, there lol
Would coating my fingers with VG help? With all the VG in my prep, my coil may be ready to vape before I wick it

 

[mach1ne]

Is there a way to hold it without a hand? Serious question, there lol
Would coating my fingers with VG help? With all the VG in my prep, my coil may be ready to vape before I wick it

i have never tried vg or any kind of lube (a million terrible one-liners appear before me). i just do what i normally do to make aliens, but way softer. i find the decore crosses my hand similar to a 'saber grip', so there are a few contact points. i under stretch a little just to allow me to use a bit of tension to hold the angle and then i hope for the best

 

[AnthonyLouis]

yeah 40 alien is very delicate. i find its much easier to work with if you understretch it a bit because its so fragile it can get wrecked by the slightest thing, and overstretched alien will never work. if you leave it a little understretched you have some room to make mistakes with your tension (on 40, holding it in your hand gently can be a 'mistake with your tension' ).

since we are in the staple thread, you should try alien framed staples next @Pegleg Meg just set up 2x28 with 4x.3mm in the middle and do everything else like you are making a 3x28 alien (28 decore). your framed staple stack prep is clearly good enough (as evidenced by your recent success with that build). imo its easier to alien wrap a framed staple stack than 3xround wire cores.

Haha that’s actually what I was going to try today but with 26 & .4. Figured I’d give myself an easier task with the frames staples rather then worrying about the round cores collapsing. Besides, fraliens vape better then standard aliens! My biggest thing with round aliens used to be the stop and go to move the leads up... since I haven’t done them in a year+ I think it’s easier to just start with fraliens.


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[mach1ne]

Haha that’s actually what I was going to try today but with 26 & .4. Figured I’d give myself an easier task with the frames staples rather then worrying about the round cores collapsing. Besides, fraliens vape better then standard aliens! My biggest thing with round aliens used to be the stop and go to move the leads up... since I haven’t done them in a year+ I think it’s easier to just start with fraliens.


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yeah, if your framed staple stack is prepped well, its a lot sturdier of a thing to alien wrap (imo). if your stack is hard enough, just put two or three paper clips spaced out across it once you get it mounted on your drill/swivels, and just flick them off as you go (and hold your wrap hand against something so your angle doesnt change).

 

[AnthonyLouis]

yeah, if your framed staple stack is prepped well, its a lot sturdier of a thing to alien wrap (imo). if your stack is hard enough, just put two or three paper clips spaced out across it once you get it mounted on your drill/swivels, and just flick them off as you go (and hold your wrap hand against something so your angle doesnt change).

I’m actually waiting for my Patinos alien makers. Those sliding gliders could be a life save not having to stop and go


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[AnthonyLouis]

I’m actually waiting for my Patinos alien makers. Those sliding gliders could be a life save not having to stop and go


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They had a 50% off sale yesterday for vday... I should have posted about it here, I didn’t even think about it


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[Zohmbiebuilds]

When I alien I find I hold it so weird. Because I don't use swivles, I gotta Jimmy my hand to lay the cores on. I do pretty well without swivles.

I have swivels but but am so used to just making a coil or two for the build. I am going to get into swivels soon tho. Faster and now coils per run

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[zephyr]

When I alien I find I hold it so weird. Because I don't use swivles, I gotta Jimmy my hand to lay the cores on. I do pretty well without swivles.

I have swivels but but am so used to just making a coil or two for the build. I am going to get into swivels soon tho. Faster and now coils per run

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Hey man, I got some swivels that havent let me down yet, I could mail you some. It's like a 20 pack and I just use 4 or 5, and dude the very first swivel still spins. I can't put any more tension on my wire without my drill tipping over, either.

 

[mach1ne]

When I alien I find I hold it so weird. Because I don't use swivles, I gotta Jimmy my hand to lay the cores on. I do pretty well without swivles.

I have swivels but but am so used to just making a coil or two for the build. I am going to get into swivels soon tho. Faster and now coils per run

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

lol the claw formation your hand has to make to freehand aliens...i know it well get into the swivels man, its a huge difference once you get your setup figured out. they require a bit of experimentation to find the best ways to set them up, attach your builds etc...but once you do that, they really up your game.

 

[AnthonyLouis]

Some baby fraliens for the wake rta
4(.4x.1k)
2(26gK)
35gK alien - 1.1ohm Pre Fire (I think. It was late last night)

Fire/Wick shots soon to come... I have like 2k Feet of 35g that I gotta start using... it just sits there doing nothing lol


EDIT: .11ohm Pre-Fire. That’s betterer