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things to avoid..if you don't want to blow yourself up with a mech.

nightshard

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So let me get it straight, most of the surface area of the washers is insulated but the innermost part of them is not and touches the atty positive pin from one side and the battery positive contact from the other?

Since if the ID of the washers is wider then the atty pin it would still short.
 
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pulsevape

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So let me get it straight, most of the surface area of the washers is insulated but the innermost part of them is not and touches the atty positive pin from one side and the battery positive contact from the other?
the entire washers is made of a non conductive material....you drop your battery into the tube...you place or stack non conductive washers on top of the battery....the washers O.D. will be the same as the tubes I.D. the hole of the washer can be quite big....what you have created is a non conductive barrier between the battery and the atty...you have now stacked enough non conductive washers so that when the atty is screwwed onto the mod..the gap between the battery and the 510 does not allow them to touch each other, the adjustable pin has to be lowered in order for there to be a connection. it forces yo to adjust the pin down to meet the battery..
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Other things that could go wrong are button failure either it being stuck while firing or forgetting to lock the mech before placing it in a pocket/holster.

Design flaws like in the case of the cherry bomber, having it fire if something metallic touches both the body of the atty and the mod.
 

pulsevape

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Other things that could go wrong are button failure either it being stuck while firing or forgetting to lock the mech before placing it in a pocket/holster.

Design flaws like in the case of the cherry bomber, having it fire if something metallic touches both the body of the atty and the mod.
oooh that is an excellent point.....we usually think of the famous pocket fires as being due to idiots sticking batteries without a case into their pockets which are filled with keys and change...so I would assume that the issue was that, that particular mod the cherry bomb had a design flaw....that for the most part you can stick a mod in your pocket even with metal...as long as the button wasn't engaged you'd be safe....?????......personally I prefer the shirt pocket the mod can fall out easier, but I feel it's safer for me in the long run....I personally have shattered 2 glass tanks on my gennys...once I didn't notice the mod had fallen into the folds of a couch and the button engaged the atty kept firing until I noticed it ....it got the atty so hot it shattered the tank....the other time I sat the atty down and walked away having forgotten to lock the button I came back hours latter to a shattered tank......
 
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nightshard

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No actually the cherry bomber design flow means that if your keys were to touch both the atty body and mech body at the same time it would bypass the button and fire anyway.
 

pulsevape

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No actually the cherry bomber design flow means that if your keys were to touch both the atty body and mech body at the same time it would bypass the button and fire anyway.
quite a flaw to make....
.here's a question...I have read of people sticking their mods in like a gym bag and the thing catching fire...like I said I have shattered two tanks the batteries just quietly drained out and no fire no explosion....why did these people's firing mods start a fire...
 

HvyMtl

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In my OPINION the 25r is the best overall battery for subohm. It's pulse rating and thermal properties give you more overall leeway combined with the mah rating.

Some(few) have a higher CDR but not enough mah to be worth it outside of a few drags

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My opinion as well. I have Sonys, LGs, I'll use those in regulateds, but I completely agree that the 25r is the best overall for either mech or regulated for subohm.


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dcarpentier

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Why are batteries designed like they are anyhow ?
Do some devices (perhaps not e-cigs) require access to the outer shell surface ?
Why are they not more like AA, factory sealed with polarities only available on the ends.. and otherwise well insulated shells ?
 

f1r3b1rd

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That mod is pretty ugly ... But I'm not a fan of the able mods either.


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f1r3b1rd

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How about just sticking with regulated mods if you can't handle a mech?


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That's all well and good; and, is what some people should do.
However, as we've seen lately some people will do things they aren't ready for.
At least this way, Thanks to Pulsevape, there is a set of helpful information for those that choose to look for it.

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yvaiwhy

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That's all well and good; and, is what some people should do.
However, as we've seen lately some people will do things they aren't ready for.
At least this way, Thanks to Pulsevape, there is a set of helpful information for those that choose to look for it.

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The only sure safe way would be only if we can develop a vaccine for 'Stupidity' which seems very far fetched


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Hank F. Spankman

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The only sure safe way would be only if we can develop a vaccine for 'Stupidity' which seems very far fetched


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780b25e7b11ea49575a7393895c75fd1.jpg
 

Iliketurtles

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Some mechs like the `dos Equis for example
rBVaG1UuIs-AbACZAAHV0AIEdDs676.jpg

...what the fire button does is connect the -ve base to the 510 (thread part) to fire the coil.
Don't carry mods like that in a pocket / bag with things like a screwdriver / pocket knife / loose change in them. Anything conductive that can bridge the base to the top metal sections will cause the mod to fire. Better still just don't carry mods in a bag / pocket unless they have some kind of case on them or the batteries backed out / loosened a little so they can't fire.
 

pulsevape

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How about just sticking with regulated mods if you can't handle a mech?


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This thread is to dispell the fear mongering about mech mods on the one hand and to give the new folks that want to use a mech mod a realistic and informed source of the things to not do in order to use them safely...it is hopefully a series of common questions that people have about using mech mods , as well as questions they SHOULD ask about, before purchasing a mech mod.
 

f1r3b1rd

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What should one do if they forget to lock the firing button and the mod starts firing while in the pocket.

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f1r3b1rd

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Preferably get it OUT of your pocket.......
And then what? Should they remove the battery to let it cool?

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KKen

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I regularly use mechanical devices, and the most important thing I look out for is how clean my batteries are; meaning if there are any tears or exposed areas, I just toss them away if they are older than 6 months, or re-wrap if they are still newer (I date my batteries so I have an idea on how long I have them)

As for atomizer shorts, being a genisis/mesh user, I tend to pulse my coils on a Burning Tab Master first until I'm satisfied, then will switch it over to my mech for regular use afterwards.

510/hybrid connection issues are not a concern since the hybrid adaptors I use have built in center pins, but still check the insulator and pin on the atomizer to make sure they are good and screwed on tightly.

I use 18500 batteries most of the time, so try to keep mindful on the discharged amount, but after using mechs for a while, it becomes second nature knowing when your battery falls below a certain voltage.
 

freemind

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And then what? Should they remove the battery to let it cool?

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I wouldn't advise that. If the battery is in vent mode, I'd be afraid of blowing off my hand.

Instead set it someplace safe for a bit, to cool off.
 

pulsevape

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Excellent video...when I first saw this guy I thought...OH shit a fucking Aussie rip tripper, every other word was cunt or dick......but after watching him for awhile I realized the guy was fucking smart (unlike rip tripper) and he was a good vaper. So now he is one of a very few group of reviewers I will check out if I'm curious about a piece of vape gear.

Like KKen I vape genisis/ mesh or ceramic almost exclusively,and so I almost never build below.7 or .6 and generally I'll be around .75 to .8 on the rare occasion I drip I still won't go much lower than .5...so I really am not pushing the envelope, and yet I still buy the best batteries I can find with 20 amp ratings high drain with as large a mah rating as I can find. this gives me more than enough cushion..I'm paranoid....... I learned how to build before sub-ohming came along ...kindergarten building......today we have new people that go out and buy dual alien coils from a coil builder and slap them in a noisy cricket...we need to make them aware that the more power they use the more they are pushing the envelope on their saftey...
 

f1r3b1rd

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Excellent video...when I first saw this guy I thought...OH shit a fucking Aussie rip tripper, every other word was cunt or dick......but after watching him for awhile I realized the guy was fucking smart (unlike rip tripper) and he was a good vaper. So now he is one of a very few group of reviewers I will check out if I'm curious about a piece of vape gear.

Like KKen I vape genisis/ mesh or ceramic almost exclusively,and so I almost never build below.7 or .6 and generally I'll be around .75 to .8 on the rare occasion I drip I still won't go much lower than .5...so I really am not pushing the envelope, and yet I still buy the best batteries I can find with 20 amp ratings high drain with as large a mah rating as I can find. this gives me more than enough cushion..I'm paranoid....... I learned how to build before sub-ohming came along ...kindergarten building......today we have new people that go out and buy dual alien coils from a coil builder and slap them in a noisy cricket...we need to make them aware that the more power they use the more they are pushing the envelope on their saftey...
I had a similar issue with the guy, and thought he was an ass at first too.
After watching him on a few videos, he's one that actually cares about both vapors and the industry.

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The Cromwell

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My first rule of using a mech is.
If it does not fire when it is supposed to. DO NOT keep trying to get it to fire!
Take the battery out immediately and figure out what is wrong.
If you have a hard short your mech WILL NOT fire and a boom may only be seconds away.
 

pulsevape

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Anger management?
This thread has already become useless. If you and your butt buddy wanted to help then take the useful info make it into an FAQ format. Title it FAQ for new mech users then get it stickied.

Of course if u have any questions I'll be happy to help out an answer them

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yeah we could do that..but this way the new people see other vapers who use mech mods and if they have a question they can contact one of them..it also lets them see the community and helps them feel they are part of it and can approach other people comfortablly.When I was new I asked the people who seemed to know stuff, notread stickies..still don't..I just ask people we start a convesation and pretty soon we're friends.and we help each other out, turn each other onto news or vape deals or recepies
 
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HvyMtl

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This thread is to dispell the fear mongering about mech mods on the one hand and to give the new folks that want to use a mech mod a realistic and informed source of the things to not do in order to use them safely...it is hopefully a series of common questions that people have about using mech mods , as well as questions they SHOULD ask about, before purchasing a mech mod.

The most important part of your statement- before purchasing. I remember reading as much as I could and learning more about ohms law and batteries when I was considering mechs.


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HvyMtl

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I had a similar issue with the guy, and thought he was an ass at first too.
After watching him on a few videos, he's one that actually cares about both vapors and the industry.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

I watch him a lot, too, and was one of the reasons I bought a Broadside.


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f1r3b1rd

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I watch him a lot, too, and was one of the reasons I bought a Broadside.


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I like the fact that he is really active over there with helping vaping through legislation and actually helping people with real information. Too many reviewers are our for themselves.

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Debbiej

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I gotta question.........was trying to read through some of this......stuff.
About arcing and black spots on batteries. Has anyone used deoxit? It's suppose to help with contacts. The button on dotmod doesn't hit flush on battery causing an arc. I've read deoxit may help
Or maybe I'm in the wrong place to ask?
 

f1r3b1rd

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I gotta question.........was trying to read through some of this......stuff.
About arcing and black spots on batteries. Has anyone used deoxit? It's suppose to help with contacts. The button on dotmod doesn't hit flush on battery causing an arc. I've read deoxit may help
Or maybe I'm in the wrong place to ask?
I've used NoOx ID. But if the button isn't contacting the battery, there's a bigger issue I would contact dotmod.

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Debbiej

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It contacts.......but not flush........I'm sure if I pushed the bottom button squarely, every time, it wouldn't arc. I get a pleasant vape. I'm worried about the black O on battery. Not pitted but built up. Been three months, I know ohms law. Read battery safety. Heard to clean contacts. Reckon I thought where my hand/mouth contacted the mod. Didn't even think about the spring or inside button. (Yeah, I'm a dumbass)
Need to clean inside contact. Anywhere the battery touches. Ecspecially positive and negative ends. My other question.........6 batteries have black circles. Some bad, some faint. I've tried lightly cleaning them. Is there anything I can use to clean them save sandpaper? Do you use deoxit regularly? Some use it every battery change. Just a dab
 

Debbiej

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Contact dotmod about contact. I like it. Hey, thanks for answering my question
I'm glad this thread is on here. It help dummies like me
 

f1r3b1rd

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I've not used NoOx on a contact, typically you want your contacts clean and clear. I use it on the threads. When I clean the mod I put a tiny dab on the threads and screw it together.
I would strongly urge that you NOT use sandpaper on a battery.
Usually there is a way to adjust either the 510 or button contact to remove battery rattle... I don't have a dotmod mech, but maybe someone that does or dotmod can advise you farther.


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Whiskey

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I'm going to say it one last time, this thread needs to stay on topic with out the bickering back and forth posts, to those of you who's posts just got removed from here , that means YOU , this thread is meant to help New vapers better understand what is involved with Mech mods and their use, if it can't remain about that, then I won't waste time babysitting, I'll just throw the whole thread into the mud pit. Sorry some have to ruin it for all the others. (Last warning)
 
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raymo2u

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Ive been asked to share this here )was posted in another discussion).

I have had couple incidents like a SMPL clone that auto fired with some .09 4 Core Aliens in a velocity RDA in my bedroom while I went to the bathroom, I came back to my room and there was fire and smoke coming out of my velocity RDA. The drip tip melted completely, cotton was burned completely...coils were fine, mod was too hot to touch and the cell-even after the mod cooled down enough to open it was scolding hot. I recycled the cell afterwards (Samsung 25R). These are the instances where people worry most instead of just pulse rating and amp draw from builds.....Murphy's Law was written for a good reason, its natures way of weeding out people who dont learn fast enough or who take risks...

Ive never vented a cell besides some rewraps purposely...Ive done some crazy stupid stuff that would horrify most vapers but Ive never vented a cell or have it go into thermal runaway pulsing or vaping. Ive always replaced cells every 3-4 months due to abuse and precautionary rules I put in place, I only keep cells for 250 cycles and then get new cells.
I only use and trust a few brands for cells, the same goes for the places I get my cells, when your putting your hands at risk you should always go with whats proven and trusted.
Cells I use Samsung 25R, LG HE2/HE4/HB4/HB6/HG2, Sony VTC4/VTC5a, and ve had good results with the new cells Hohmtech have been making at Indonesia Chemistry the Hohm Work cells are much like the 25R and the Hohmlife cells are better then the HG2 cells for both capacity and keeping lower temps at higher amp draws. HOWEVER, I would advise everyone who isnt well rehearsed in battery specs and battery chemistry should read thoroughly through Mooch's studies..
 

raymo2u

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In my OPINION the 25r is the best overall battery for subohm. It's pulse rating and thermal properties give you more overall leeway combined with the mah rating.

Some(few) have a higher CDR but not enough mah to be worth it outside of a few drags

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You should try out the new VTC5a if you havent yet, I consider it the best cell for anything and everything. It comes highly rated by Mooch as well
 

f1r3b1rd

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You should try out the new VTC5a if you havent yet, I consider it the best cell for anything and everything. It comes highly rated by Mooch as well
I have a couple of them; but, I haven't done the research to see where it lies for pulse ratings, yet.
I do agree though, the vape out of them my overdose mod is noticeably better than with the 25rs.

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